Expert Picks You Can Plant Right Now

By Ava Green

Looking for a flowering shrub that delivers season after season? We asked our experts at Eising Garden Centre to share their top picks, the ones that customers and staff love most, and they delivered. Whether you’re looking for spring blooms, fall colour, wildlife and pollinator value, or a shrub to suit your space, there’s something on this list for every garden.

Fuji Cherry ‘Little Twist’, Prunus incisa ‘CarltonLT’

As an accent in a small garden, or planted in a grouping in a larger garden, this multi-stemmed shrub is a gem! 

In early spring, crimson buds emerge before the leaves appear. Little Twist then produces clusters of lightly scented white, bell-shaped flowers with soft pink centres that grow along its stems, a stunning early-season display. It is a deciduous shrub, and leaves begin as green before shifting to coppery-bronze, then deepen to a rich burgundy in fall. Smooth, dark red bark adds interest in the winter once the leaves are gone.

This slow-growing, multi-stemmed shrub makes a striking feature in your garden.

Best for: Small gardens, accent planting, four-season interest. | Sun: Full sun | Mature size: 6 ft. tall × 6 ft. wide

Downy Serviceberry, Amelanchier canadensis

One of the most rewarding native shrubs you can plant, Downy Serviceberry earns its place in the garden from spring right through to fall. Showy clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring, followed by small, sweet, edible purple-blue berries in early summer that are wonderful for making jam and an absolute favourite for birds. Come fall, the foliage puts on a spectacular show in shades of yellow, red, and orange.

As a bonus, choosing a native plant like Serviceberry supports local pollinators and wildlife, making it as ecologically valuable as it is beautiful. It works well as a specimen plant on it’s own, in a grouping or hedge, or naturalized in a larger landscape.

Best for: Wildlife gardens, naturalized areas, multi-season interest | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 20 ft. tall × 10 ft. wide

Amur Privet, Ligustrum Amurense

Amur Privet

When fast growth and privacy matter, Amur Privet is one of the best choices available. This dense, dark green shrub produces white flower panicles in late spring and small black berries in fall. It responds exceptionally well to pruning after it blooms, making it an ideal candidate for a formal or informal hedge. If you need to fill a space quickly and create structure in your garden, this is a reliable, low-maintenance option. 

Best for: Hedging, screening, fast coverage | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 12–15 ft. tall × 8–15 ft. wide

Viburnum ‘Fragrant Snowball’, Viburnum Opulus ‘Roseum’

Few shrubs stop people in their tracks quite like Fragrant Snowball Viburnum in full bloom. Large, rounded clusters of sweetly scented white flowers cover the plant in spring, creating a display that’s hard to match. While it doesn’t produce fruit, it earns its place again in the fall when the foliage transitions to rich shades of purple. 

Pruning after it blooms will help to keep it a manageable size and encourage healthy new growth. It’s also available as a standard, or tree form, which matures to a more compact 6 to 8 feet tall.

Sun or part shade are best for this deciduous shrub, a beautiful, solitary accent plant for the garden growing 12 feet high and 10 feet wide. As a standard, it is smaller, maturing at 6 to 8 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide.  

Best for: Specimen planting, cottage gardens, fragrance | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 12 ft. tall × 10 ft. wide (shrub); 6–8 ft. tall (standard)

Snowbelle Mockorange, Philadelphus ‘Snowbelle’

Don’t let its compact size fool you; when Snowbelle Mockorange blooms in early summer, it puts on a big show. This dense, mounded shrub is blanketed in sweetly fragrant double white blooms that are absolutely irresistible to bees and butterflies. Once the flowers fade, its rich, dark-green deciduous foliage makes it a lovely backdrop for other blooming plants in the border.

Growing just four feet tall and wide, it’s one of the best choices for smaller beds, borders and foundation plantings. It prefers full sun but handles part shade as well.

Best for: Small borders, foundation planting, fragrance | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 4 ft. tall × 4 ft. wide

More Flowering Shrubs Worth Exploring

This is just the beginning! At Eising Garden Centre, we also carry a wonderful selection of Azalea, Eastern Redbud, Kwanzan Flowering Cherry, Hydrangea, Dogwood, Butterfly Bush, Beauty Bush, Lilac, Rose of Sharon, Forsythia, and Potentilla, to name a few. 

The best way to find the right flowering shrub for your garden is to come in and see them in person, and right now is the perfect time to plant. Stop by and chat with Zach or Donna, who are always happy to help you find exactly what you’re looking for, based on your space, soil, and vision. We’re here to help you make the most of every corner of your garden!

By Ava Green

Is there anything sweeter than the scent of Lilacs in the spring? These beloved shrubs are remarkably easy to grow and will reward you with weeks of fragrant blooms for little or no effort. But a bit of attention can make a big difference, especially if you’ve noticed your blooms getting smaller or fewer with each passing year. 

To help your lilac put on its best show, keep these steps in mind:

• Plant in full sun, at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, in well-draining soil
• Water newer plants during prolonged periods of drought until established (the first 3 years)
• Feed your lilacs annually with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10, for example)
• Follow spacing instructions and prune yearly. Pruning is a very important step, and it’s well worth it.

Knowing When to Prune is Key

Timing is everything when it comes to pruning your lilacs. After the blooms fade, you have a two-week window to prune before the shrub sets its buds for next year's flowers. Yes, they set buds this year that will bloom next year! Pruning lilacs in the fall or the early spring risks cutting off all of the flower buds for the following year. Mark your calendar and prune promptly after flowering.

It also helps to understand how lilacs grow: Younger, thinner lilac stems produce more flowers. Older, thicker stems are more prone to disease and pests. Keeping this in mind will help with pruning decisions.

How To Prune Young Lilacs

If your lilac has been in the ground for less than three years, leave it alone; it doesn’t need pruning yet. Many young lilacs won’t bloom during those first few years.

After three years, once your shrub is established, begin by removing just one of the thickest, oldest stems down to the ground every 2 years. This gentle approach prevents the shrub from becoming overgrown while encouraging newer, flower-producing growth. 

How To Prune Older, Overgrown Lilacs

If your lilac has been neglected or grown out of control, you have two options:

Option 1: Gradual Rejuvenation

Begin by removing any damaged stems, as these invite pests that can harm the entire shrub. Next, remove only the largest, oldest stems by cutting them right down to the ground. The key is to remove no more than one-third of the living wood (dead stems don’t count toward that total). Leave the younger, thinner stems intact so your shrub can still bloom the following year. Repeat this process each spring for three years, and you’ll gradually restore the shrub to its full, flowering potential without sacrificing a single bloom season.

Option 2: Full Cutback

For a severely overgrown lilac that has been largely ignored, a complete cutback is often the most practical solution. Cut the entire shrub as close to the ground as possible, either in early spring or immediately after blooming. Yes, this breaks the general rule of never removing more than one-third of live wood, but lilacs are remarkably resilient and respond well to this kind of hard reset. By the end of summer, you will have healthy new stems of three to five feet tall. While the shrub won’t bloom for approximately three years after a full cutback, the long-term results are well worth the wait.

Deadheading Your Lilacs

Deadheading, or removing spent flower clusters after the blooms fade, is a simple task that’s separate from pruning, and can be done during that same two-week post-bloom window. When you trim off faded blooms, the plant redirects its energy from seed production toward building bigger, healthier buds for the next year. It takes only minutes and can make a meaningful difference in the size and abundance of next year’s flowers. 

A Note on Lawns and Lilacs

If your lilac grows near a lawn, be mindful of how much fertilizer you’re applying to the surrounding grass. Lawn fertilizers are typically high in nitrogen, which encourages lush leaf growth, but too much nitrogen reaching your lilac’s roots will suppress flower production.

Worthy Rewards

Lilacs are remarkably long-lived, often outlasting the gardens and even the homes they were planted beside. So whether you’re nursing a young shrub through its first few years or breathing new life into an old, overgrown beauty, the effort you put in now is an investment that will keep rewarding you, and perhaps generations after you. Every single spring!

By Ava Green

As soon as warm weather and sunshine arrive in Southern Ontario, it’s time to head to the garden centre and pick up all the plants we’ve been dreaming about all winter long! May 24th is generally the date we look forward to — the unofficial marker when frosty mornings are behind us and the promise of summer is ahead. 

By now, cool-weather plants like cabbage, Brussels sprouts, peas, and lettuce should be well established in the vegetable garden. And for everything else, it’s go time!

TIP: Before you start planting, this is the ideal time to amend your soil. Top up your garden beds with fresh topsoil or enrich them with compost to improve soil health, add nutrients, and promote vigorous plant growth. Don’t forget to refresh the soil in your containers as well, with potting mix or compost.

Warm Weather Vegetables

When soil temperatures are consistently 60°F (15°C) or higher, it’s safe to plant all the warm-weather vegetable crops we’ve been waiting for! Plants that thrive in warmer weather include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini and corn.

At Eising Garden Centre, you’ll find vegetables in 6-packs, 4” pots, trellised patio containers, patio bowls and hanging baskets - while supplies last, of course!

Herbs also love warm weather, and tender varieties like basil are safe to plant once all danger of frost has passed. Whether you plant herbs directly into the ground or create a potted herb garden near the kitchen door, they’ll add fresh flavour to your meals all season long. A container of herbs also makes a wonderful gift when visiting friends and family for a summer BBQ.

While you’re in the vegetable and herb aisle, keep an eye out for everbearing strawberries in planters and containers of tropical fruits like lemons, limes, and oranges.

Annual Flowers

Winter-weary flower beds can be revived almost instantly with a burst of colourful annuals! If you’re looking for an immediate impact and blooms that last all summer long, annual flowers are the answer.

Whether you plant them in beds, containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets — or choose from one of our gorgeous pre-planted options — just add water and fertilizer, and you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant display that keeps on giving.

Perennials

While perennials may not bloom all summer, many offer extended bloom periods, and by combining different varieties, you can create a succession of flowers that lasts for months. Perennials also provide essential greenery to anchor your garden and enhance the look of your flowering plants.

You can plant perennials from spring through fall, but getting them into the ground now gives them a strong start. From hostas and ornamental grasses to daisies and delphiniums, there’s a perennial for every style of garden — and the best part is, they’ll return each spring like dependable old friends.

Trees, Shrubs and Vines

Often called “the bones” of the garden, trees, shrubs, and climbing vines add essential structure, height, and seasonal interest. Planting them now allows you to design your garden layers thoughtfully, incorporating annuals and perennials around their base.

Spring is also the prime time to purchase and plant fruit trees and fruiting shrubs. At Eising, spring offers the best selection for starting your home orchard. Are you thinking of adding a few edible shrubs? Gooseberries, haskaps, hardy kiwi, rhubarb and raspberries are excellent choices.

Mulch

Okay, it’s not a plant, but this is a reminder to add mulch to your garden beds or containers. After planting, adding a layer of mulch to your garden beds or containers helps retain soil moisture, reduces transplant shock, and suppresses weeds. Even if a few weeds manage to sneak through, mulch makes them easier to pull.

Water Garden Plants

If you have a garden pond, spring is the perfect time to add water plants. Floating plants, such as water hyacinths and water lilies, help shade the pond’s surface, reducing algae blooms. Marginal or bog plants, such as water iris, papyrus, and cattails, also help keep the water healthy and clear by improving oxygen levels and providing habitats for beneficial wildlife.

Time to Grow!

May is one of the most anticipated and exciting months in the garden. Whether you’re dreaming of fresh vegetables, a lush landscape, or a colourful flower display, planting now sets the stage for a beautiful, bountiful season. Visit us at Eising Garden Centre to find everything you need — and let’s get growing!

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

If you can’t wait for Mother Nature’s next great colour show, the time is now (mid September) to get rolling on those early spring flowering bulbs! Even though you can start planting in October or early November, buying bulbs now is advantageous as the selection at your local garden centre is at their best. Being the very first to bloom during the last dreary days of winter, bulbs announce that spring is returning once more, and as you think about the colourful show of tulips and daffodils next year, remember all spring’s groundwork begins now!

   Your bulbs may be planted in your lawn, rock beds, at the foot of trees and bushes, in annual or perennial flower beds, or even in flower stands and pots. Combining the emerging fresh colors and textures of bulbs with the established foliage creates a harmonious relationship opportune for a complimenting or contrasting garden-scape. With a bit of planning and creative selection you can easily extend the joy of having spring flowering bulbs in your garden from a few weeks to several months, furthermore, planting bulbs amongst perennials offers that the new growth of the perennials will hide the fading foliage of the bulbs once they have finished flowering! Not long after the fading of the bulbs most perennials themselves will bloom, smoothly extending the sequence of flowering plants for you to enjoy.

Read on for all there is to know about planting bulbs!

Buying Your Bulbs:

When buying, look for nice, plump, firm, bulbs. Avoid those with scars or that feel spongy to the touch. The general rule is the larger the bulb the bigger the plant. If you're buying daffodils, look for bulbs that have two or more "noses" as you will get extra flowers for free!

   To have a good display of colour in your garden, right from March to the end of June. Be sure to check the blooming times on the packages and get a variety of early, mid and late-blooming spring bulbs.

👉 Tip: To extend the season, plant some bulbs in places where the sun beats down in early spring and some in cooler, shady areas of the garden allowing them to emerge in later spring.

Planting Your Bulbs:

When planting, the soil must be warm enough under the surface to stimulate a little root growth prior to the winter freeze. Winter chilling is necessary to break the flower bud dormancy (vernalization) to have our bulbs produce blooms in the spring (see below how to force bulbs if you’re reading this in the spring).

   Remember to plant your bulbs with the pointed end up! If it doesn't seem to have a pointed end, look for the flatter side and evidence of roots, which is the end that goes down. If you still can't be sure, plant the bulb on its side and it will figure out the proper direction by itself!

   The rule of thumb is to plant the bulb two or three times as deep as the bulb is tall. The depth is to the base of the bulb, not the top. Typically, 8 inches (20 cm) for big bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and hyacinths and 5 inches (13 cm) for small bulbs like grape hyacinths and crocus. Plant in well-drained soil, cover up, water well and wait for spring.

   In a wide hole, place bulbs - so they aren't touching - in threes, fives, or sevens per hole for the most natural look. You can throw a handful of bonemeal in the planting hole and mix it lightly with the soil, this will give your bulbs a good boost for the best bloom. Water to the depth of the hole.

   Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs require a long period of cool temperatures to undergo the biochemical process that allows them to flower. So, in the fall, get them in the ground ideally six weeks before hard freezes to give them the time they need to develop strong roots.

Fertilizing Bulbs:

   Bulbs contain the nutrients they need to bloom their first year, but a fertilizing program will keep plants healthy and ward off diseases and pests. Compost and manure are two good organic fertilizers that not only enrich the soil but ensure a good soil structure for bulbs. Additionally, organic supplements can be used to add nutritional balance. Compound mineral fertilizers can also be applied, however, check the label to see if fertilizing is appropriate for your bulbs and the best time of year to do so. Top-dressing with fertilizers like 9-9-6 slow release or either 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 soluble fertilizers are examples.

   Once a bed of spring flowering bulbs are established, the process of naturalizing occurs which simply means that a bulb flowers again after the first year and starts producing more bulbs on their own. However, they will need your help to get the food they require to recharge and regenerate for the next season's bloom.

Some Helpful Tips:

1. Squirrels enjoy the taste of tulip bulbs if they are easily accessible but not so with daffodil bulbs; interplanting the two together and/or mulching the garden will help protect them.
2. Resist the urge to tidy up fading foliage or mow over it as the plants require about six weeks to build up reserves for the next season.
3. Deadhead the tulips as the formation of seeds will sap the energy from the bulb. Daffodils & other bulbs do not require this action.

Forcing Bulbs:

Now if you can't wait for spring to smell the fragrant hyacinths, or you missed the fall planting, why not try your hand at bulb forcing?

   All you have to do is plant any extra bulbs in a pot with a drainage hole. Choose a pot that is at least twice as deep as the bulbs to allow for proper root growth. Fill the pot half full of soilless potting mix. Then place as many bulbs as possible in the pot, without letting them touch. For a thick show, layer more than one kind of bulb in the same pot; place larger bulbs on the bottom as they will grow around the smaller ones. A six inch-wide pot holds up to six tulips, three narcissus (daffodils), or 15 minor bulbs, such as crocuses or grape hyacinths.

   Cover the bulbs with potting mix, leaving their tips showing. Water the bulbs thoroughly. Label with name and date; loosely cover pot with a paper bag. Place in cool (1-7 degrees Celsius or 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit), dark place for chilling such as an unheated attic, basement, or attached garage or in a 12 inch-deep trench covered in a tarp.

   Check moisture in pot periodically keeping the soil damp but not wet. When chilling is complete, you'll see roots poking out of the bottom of the pot and green sprouts emerging at the bulb tips. It's time to move the potted bulbs into a warm room.

Chilling and Blooming Times:

• Daffodils: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Tulips: 10-16 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Crocus: 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Grape hyacinth (Muscari): 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Iris reticulata: 13-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Snowdrop (Galanthus): 15 weeks of chilling; 2 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Hyacinth: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.

We wish you all the best with your bulb planting this autumn! For more information - and bulbs - stop by Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre this fall!

By: Ava Green

One of the best things about living in southern Ontario is the beautiful show our deciduous trees and shrubs put on each fall. 

Autumn is also the perfect time to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials. The sun is less intense, temperatures are slightly cooler, and with regular, deep watering, the plants are less prone to transplant shock, ensuring a successful planting. 

As the leaves begin to change, they mark the arrival of autumn, a season full of colour and celebration. If fall is a special time of year for you, our staff have handpicked their favourite deciduous trees and shrubs with the most stunning seasonal displays. Here are their top recommendations.

Autumn Blaze Maple

Botanical Name: Acer x freemanii 'Jeffersred'

This tree is a cross between the fast-growing Silver Maple and the showy Red Maple - two very popular trees! 

Autumn Blaze will provide a display of colour throughout autumn by starting earlier and lasting longer than most other trees. It’s large, with 5-inch leaves that begin by turning red at the top, then eventually shades of red and orange cascade down the length of the tree. 

Even in the winter, this is a beautiful specimen because its shape is so symmetrical.

Seven-Son Flower

Botanical Name: Heptacodium miconioides

Considered a small tree or large shrub, Seven-Son Flower is popular for its year-round beauty! 

Growing to a maximum of 6.1 metres (20 feet) tall and 3 metres (9.8 feet) wide, the leaves of this plant change from spring to summer, making it an interesting specimen plant in the garden. 

The biggest attraction is the fragrant white blooms it produces late in summer, which are highly attractive to hummingbirds and other pollinators. As the blooms fall, they leave behind pink sepals, so it looks like it’s in bloom all over again!

Its unusual bark makes this tree beautiful year-round, but especially in the winter.

Washington Hawthorn

Botanical Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum

Leaves that turn vibrant shades of orange, purple or scarlet red in the fall are just part of the beauty of this small tree.

This is another specimen with year-round interest. In early spring, reddish-purple leaves emerge, which eventually turn dark green, followed by graceful white flowers. After its fall show, it produces bright red berries that last for most of the winter.

Maturing at 8 to 9 metres (25-30 feet) tall, Washington Hawthorn is also an important nectar plant for pollinators and provides food for birds in the winter.

Barberries

Botanical Name: Berberis thunbergii

Depending on the type of Barberry these deciduous shrubs can grow ½ to 3 metres (1-10 feet) tall and have varied shapes and features as well. For example:

• Barberry, Concorde (Berberis thunbergii 'Concorde')forms a nice globe when it's mature. Leaves start out red and gradually turn a deep, dark purple as they mature.
• Barberry, Ruby Carousel (Berberis thunbergii 'Bailone') is a compact variety with vibrant, ruby-red foliage.
• Barberry, Rose Glow (Berberis thunbergii 'Rose Glow') which matures to 1 to 1 ½ metres (3-5 feet) tall, starts out with a combination of green, white, and deep rose-red foliage in the spring. In the fall, it produces bright red berries that persist into winter.

Beautyberry, Pearl Glam

Botanical Name: Callicarpa 'NCCX2'

While many Beautyberry are showy in the fall, Pearl Glam is an upright, small shrub that has all-season interest. Its dark purple foliage emerges in the spring that lasts until frost. 

In late summer it’s adorned with white flowers which attract butterflies and bees. After blooming it produces hundreds of beautiful violet-purple berries which last long after the leaves have fallen.

Crepe Myrtle, Cherry Mocha

Botanical Name: Lagerstroemia 'Cherry Mocha'

Another small ornamental deciduous shrub with an upright growing habit, Cherry Mocha Crepe Myrtle has decorative appeal in every season.

Burgundy coloured stems with semi-glossy burgundy leaves makes this plant stand out. To add to that, new growth at the tips starts out glossy, deep red. If that’s not enough, in late summer and early fall, the blooms on this cultivar are large, cherry-red flowers which stand out from the burgundy foliage. Its flowers late in the season provide important food for bees. After flowering, green seed pods provide extra interest.

Note: Have you ever wondered why leaves on trees and shrubs change each fall? Here’s a simple explanation. During the long, sunny days of summer, trees and shrubs produce plenty of chlorophyll - the food needed to keep the leaves green. In autumn, as the days grow shorter and temperatures are cooler, there is less chlorophyll produced and the plant breaks down residual chemicals on the surface of the leaves which produces shades of red, orange and yellow.

You’ll find more information in our handy Eisings online Plant Finder!

Coneflowers (Echinacea) have earned their place in perennial borders, pollinator gardens, and meadow-style landscapes—and for good reason. These hardy, vibrant perennials reliably return each spring in our Ontario Zone 6 climate, adding long-lasting colour and texture to any garden.

The classic Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) begins with soft, pink-tinged petals that deepen into rich purple hues as the season progresses. At its peak, the familiar domed centre cone emerges—an eye-catching structure that dries beautifully and provides winter interest in the garden. 

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Choose From The Rainbow

While the purple coneflower is the most iconic, hybrids now come in nearly every colour of the rainbow. You'll find stunning varieties in pink, white, green, orange, and fiery reds.

No matter your garden’s colour scheme, there’s likely a coneflower to match. Even better, their bold blooms attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, while the seed heads feed songbirds in fall and winter.

Low Maintenance, Long-Blooming Beauty

Coneflowers are both showy and easy to care for—ideal for beginners and seasoned gardeners alike. Here’s what you need to know:

Growth habit:

• Height: 24–60 inches, depending on the variety

• Spread: 12–24 inches

• Bloom time: Mid-summer to fall

Growing conditions:

• Sun: Full sun is best, though light shade is tolerated

• Soil: Well-drained soil is key

• Water: Drought-tolerant once established, but thrives with consistent watering

• Fertilizer: Not necessary

Pro tips for success:

• Pinch back in early summer to encourage bushier, sturdier plants and decrease the chance of powdery mildew forming

• Deadhead spent blooms early in the season to prolong flowering

• Leave seed heads in late summer and fall for winter beauty and bird food

• Optional self-seeding: Let them go to seed for a naturalized look, or remove blooms to prevent self-seeding

Coneflower Companions

Coneflowers mix beautifully with a variety of other perennials. For vibrant, complementary plantings, try pairing them with:

• Salvia

• Crocosmia

• Hyssop (Agastache)

• Catmint (Nepeta)

• Phlox

• Ornamental grasses

These companions share similar growing requirements and will enhance the colour and texture of your garden throughout the growing season.

Visit Us for More Ideas

Want help choosing the perfect Coneflower variety or finding the right garden companions? Stop by Eising Garden Centre and chat with our perennial expert, Mary. She’ll help you create stunning combinations that bloom beautifully from summer into fall.

A well-chosen hedge can do a lot more than just look great—it can give you privacy, act as a windbreak, define garden spaces, reduce noise, or add year-round greenery. Whether you're looking to block out a view, frame your garden, or just create a lush backdrop, hedges are incredibly versatile.

One of the most underappreciated roles of a hedge? It makes everything in front of it—flowers, trees, garden art—look even better. Think of it as a green stage curtain that lets your garden stars shine.

Pretty much any shrub planted in a row can create a hedge, but the right plant depends on what you want it to do. Here are some of our top picks.

Evergreen Hedges - The Classic Green Wall

Cedar 

Cedar is a favourite for a reason. With its dense, year-round green foliage and low-maintenance nature, it's ideal for privacy. Depending on the type, cedars can grow between 9–14 feet tall, forming a living wall that blocks wind, noise, and prying eyes. It also makes a lovely backdrop for all your other plants.

Inkberry Holly

Looking for a Boxwood alternative? Inkberry Holly is a great choice—especially if you're concerned about Boxwood Blight. This broadleaf evergreen keeps its dark, glossy green leaves all year and can grow up to 8 feet tall if left unpruned. It loves full sun, wet soil, and even acidic conditions. You can trim it to keep it neat or let it grow naturally—either way, it makes a fantastic border or garden divider.

Yew

With dense, dark green foliage that stays lush all year-round, Yews make excellent hedges for privacy, property lines, and garden backdrops. They’re incredibly versatile—leave them to grow naturally for a softer look or trim regularly for a crisp, formal shape. Yews respond beautifully to pruning, creating a smooth, tailored finish. Just be sure to wear gloves when handling them, and plant them away from children, pets and livestock, as all parts of this striking plant are toxic.

Deciduous Hedges with Drama and Colour

Bridalwreath Spirea 

Graceful, arching branches that are completely covered in double-white blooms in the Spring make Bridalwreath Spirea a truly stunning hedge plant in the spring. After its spring show, small, glossy green leaves cover this plant until the fall, when its leaves take on beautiful autumn colours.

Bridalwreath Spirea grows to a mature height of 4-9 feet, can tolerate light shade as well as a variety of soil conditions and can be lightly pruned to shape. They are also deer-resistant.

Peking Cotoneaster

Peking Cotoneaster may not be flashy, but there are lots of reasons to love this shrub. Its smooth, dark green leaves create a clean, structured look that works beautifully behind flowering plants or along fences. In fall, the leaves turn a fiery red, and black berries appear, which birds snack on through the winter. Growing 5–7 feet tall, this shrub is also a great choice for wind protection and bird habitat.

Still not sure which plants to choose for your hedge? Stop in to see us at Eising Garden Centre and talk to one of our tree and shrub specialists - Zach, Sandy and Donna, or contact one of our landscape design specialists, Emily or Lucas. We’re here to help!

Looking for something that blooms in the garden when everything else is fading? Bluebeard (aka Caryopteris or Blue Mist) blooms from late summer until frost sets in!

This shrub-like perennial thrives in full sun and sandy soil with good drainage. In exchange for these conditions, it provides an abundance of blooms in vivid, genuine blue (a colour that’s very difficult to find in the garden) or it can have pink or blueish-purple flowers depending on the hybrid variety. Foliage can range from soft grey to golden yellow to dark and glossy green, depending on the variety. Intrigued?

Bluebeard is a great perennial shrub for almost any size of garden and does well here in Norfolk County. Plants grow in a range from two to four feet in height and width and in a well-behaved, compact mound.

Beautiful Blooms

Such a unique flower! Bluebeards form fluffy clusters of flowers, like clouds or mist and can bloom from July until there’s a frost. Like most flowering plants, deadheading spent flowers will promote continued blooming.

Bluebeard flowers have a mildly sweet scent and are full of nectar for pollinator friends like bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. The features don’t stop there! Birds love the seeds that form in the Fall too.

Planting & Care

Find a nice, sunny spot with ample space for the plant to grow. Bluebeard aren’t heavy feeders and don’t need fertilizer. Some compost in the planting hole is all that’s needed. After that, top dress with some compost each Spring. 

Water in new plants thoroughly after planting them. Once established, they don’t need watering unless it’s an extremely dry season. 

Crown rot from consistently over-watering, or from being planted in wet, heavy soil is the only disease to be concerned about. Branches will begin to die, one by one, if this plant has crown rot.

While Bluebeard will tolerate drought and shade, the amount of flowers will be greatly reduced.

Pruning

Bluebeard’s foliage and flowers form on new branches or new growth. So, early each Spring, cut the stems down by at least half. Cutting them down to 12-18” does not harm the plant. It will send up new shoots, and it’s those new shoots that produce leaves and blooms!

You may find that established plants have some dead wood in the centre. If this happens, prune out any dead wood, and that will ensure that your shrub stays looking full and happy.

One final note. Sometimes Bluebeard is called “blue mist spirea”. However, Bluebeard or Caryopteris is not related to spirea.

Hydrangeas are some of the most beloved flowering shrubs around the world—you only need one look at their big, voluminous flowerheads to see why they’re so easy to love. There are hundreds of hydrangea varieties, each belonging to one of six main types. One type, in particular, known as mophead hydrangeas, is famous for a very peculiar and whimsical trait: the flowers can change colours!

The Colour-Changing Shrub

The flowers of the mophead hydrangea change as a reaction to their soil chemistry, resulting in flowers from bright pink to neon blue and every shade in between. However, the shift in shade doesn’t happen overnight—it requires some planning, and a fair bit of patience, to change your hydrangea’s colour.

The good news is that anyone can encourage their mopheads to change colours with the right supplies and a few tips! Here’s how to do it in your yard.

From Pink to Blue

When planted in alkaline soil, mophead flowers bloom in brilliant shades of pink. By increasing the acidity of the soil over time, the flowers will gradually shift to a lovely shade of lilac, and eventually, turn vivid blue with a low enough (more acidic) pH. It’s a true delight to behold this colour change taking place throughout the summer. Some crafty gardeners have even managed to create an “ombré” effect by keeping a row of soil more alkaline on one end and more acidic on the other!

There’s one caveat to the fun; however: while pink hydrangeas will readily fade to blue, it’s nearly impossible to reverse back to pink. Those who have attempted this tend to end up with a rosy purple, which is pretty enough, but never quite the same. With that said, blue mopheads are so gorgeous; there’s a good chance you’ll be happy to keep them around as-is!

How to Turn Your Hydrangeas Blue

Changing your soil pH requires the use of soil amendments, which can gradually alter the soil chemistry. If your hydrangeas are blooming pale pink to lilac, you can intensify the pink colour by adding garden lime to the soil. Follow the package directions to ensure you’re using the right amount at once, and over time, those hydrangeas will start blushing!

However, most mophead growers are in it for the blue blooms. Blue is a relatively uncommon colour in the gardening world, so those gorgeous blue blooms are highly coveted! Mopheads start blooming blue flowers once the soil pH reaches 5.5 or lower. The best way to increase the acidity of the soil is with the use of aluminum sulfate, a common soil amendment that we carry here at Eising. You’ll need to mix a quarter-ounce of aluminum sulfate into a gallon of water and soak the soil around your mopheads. You’ll get the best results by starting in spring, but you can start at any point during the season. However, once you start treating the soil, you’ll need to reapply the amendment every month until you reach the desired result, and then maintain it with an application every other month during the growing season.

To maintain the acidity of your soil, you can also fertilize with acidic compost like orange peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, or peat. While you won’t see results right away, these will help increase soil acidity in the long term, so that you eventually won’t have any need for the aluminum sulfate. 

Considerations

Before you start modifying your soil acidity, keep your other plants in mind, as well. Each plant has a different tolerance to acidity—some love it, some can’t tolerate it. As your soil acidity changes, so will your soil’s suitability for your other favourite plants, so make sure to plan around that. Keep an eye on the nursery tag when you shop for plants to grow around your mopheads to ensure you’re leaving with a good fit. We recommend using soil tests regularly to monitor soil acidity throughout your garden. These tests are quick and easy to use, and lots of fun to do with kids!

 

A garden full of pink, purple, and blue hydrangeas is a truly magical place—and the pride of many Southern Ontario gardeners. Chat with us in-store for plant and product recommendations as you embark on this ultra-popular gardening project. Then, prepare to be spellbound by these enchanting shrubs!

Shrubs that flower in summer and fall make gorgeous accent plants for the landscape. We're so accustomed to seeing trees and shrubs blossom during spring, so it's a real treat to have all that vibrant colour and texture to enjoy throughout the later months of our growing season in Southern Ontario. 

While many gardeners will insist that summer is too hot to plant shrubs, that simply isn't the case! It can still be done successfully if you follow the correct steps to prevent your plant from getting heat stress. If you wait until later in the evening on a cloudy day to transplant a shrub, then water it thoroughly after planting, it will have all night to adjust to its new habitat and will be hydrated—ready to soak up the summer sun the following morning. 

Want to enhance the design and layout of your yard with some large, flowering shrubs? These late-season bloomers will bring a burst of colour and energy to the landscape, creating a fantastic setting for summer entertaining, hangouts on the patio, and picture-perfect photo ops.  

Bluebeard

True blue is certainly the rarest colour to encounter in the plant world, so we can't help but get excited when we see flowering plants sporting this deep, cool hue. Our Beyond Midnight Bluebeard is totally on-trend—after all, Pantone named 'Classic Blue' as the 2020 Colour of the Year! 

Bluebeard is a gorgeous flowering shrub that blooms from late summer to early fall, and its dark, glossy green foliage catches the sunlight beautifully. Plant it in full sun for best results, and prune it yearly in early spring, right at the first sign of new growth. Make sure its soil is well-draining because this shrub does not take kindly to soggy earth or stagnant water hanging around its roots. 

Butterfly Bush

These pollinator-friendly shrubs have incredibly vivid flowers that attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds alike. Our Crown Jewels variety has some of the brightest purple petals we've ever seen, nestled in a mass of golden lime green foliage. Talk about a high-impact colour palette!

Butterfly bush is an incredibly hardy plant that's resistant to drought and tolerant of rocky soils. You'll have to water it regularly for the first few months after planting, but by year two, you'll be able to just leave it be, and the regular rainfall will be plenty enough to keep it hydrated.  

Hydrangea Macrophylla

There's something so dreamy and beautiful about the lush clusters of flowers boasted by the hydrangea macrophylla—there's a reason why they're so popular for wedding bouquets! With so many different varieties and colours to choose from, you're bound to find a variety that suits your fancy. 

We really love our Bloomstruck hydrangeas because their colour can shift from blue to pink, depending on the soil's pH levels. The blossoms last all summer long, but even after they fade, this shrub adds so much visual interest through the fall, because of its emerald green foliage transitions into a rich, warm burgundy colour.

Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon actually comes from the hibiscus family, and it grows in an upright form that can be trained into a tree shape. Like most hibiscus plants, Rose of Sharon's flowers are quite large and showy. Our Woodbridge variety has stunning blossoms in a rosy blush shade, with a ruby red centre. It loves the sun and can grow up to ten feet tall and six feet wide, so it makes an excellent option for privacy borders around the perimeter of your yard.

Smoke Tree

The smoke tree gets its name from it's wispy, fluffy blossoms that look like plumes of smoke. If you love rich purples and warm fall colour palettes, you'll go absolutely gaga over our Royal Purple smoke tree, which has reddish-purple blossoms and foliage to match! Once autumn rolls around, the leaves will actually turn a brighter cranberry red shade. 

Make sure you leave plenty of space around your smoke tree when planting because they can reach up to 15 feet high and 12 feet wide! Regular pruning should help keep it a manageable size if you don't want it to get too large. Once it's established, it will appreciate it if you occasionally give it a thorough watering, especially in summer, during hot, dry spells. 

Need some help getting your new shrubs in the ground? We're happy to offer planting services for those of you who are new to landscaping! To see more of our incredible selection of flowering shrubs you can grow here in Simcoe, take a look through our newly launched webstore, so you can order all the plants and supplies you need, right from the comfort of your own home.