5 Easy Steps To Get Started

By Ava Green

There’s a common myth that you need a lot of space to grow vegetables, but whether you have a few containers, a small sunny corner, or a larger garden bed, there’s lots you can grow! Here in Norfolk County, which is Zone 6 in Southern Ontario, some vegetables can go in the ground as early as the beginning of May, while many others are usually safe to plant around the May 24th weekend, once the risk of frost has passed. Here are five simple steps to get you growing your own food this season if you’re new to vegetable gardening.

Step 1: Decide What You’d Love To Grow

Start with a list of the vegetables you actually want to eat. Coming into Eising Garden Centre with a list in hand makes choosing plants so much easier! When building your list, consider:

• Vegetables you love
• High-value vegetables, the ones that are expensive at the grocery store but easy and economical to grow yourself
• Anything that tastes better when it’s freshly picked, like tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh herbs

Step 2: Make a Simple Plan

You don’t need an elaborate design; a rough sketch on a scrap of paper is just fine. The goal is simply to get a sense of your space and where things will go before you start digging. We recommend starting a garden notebook or journal to track what you plant each year and how it performs. It will be especially helpful next spring!! A few planning tips to keep in mind:

• Most heat-loving vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant and beans, need at least six hours of sun per day
• Cool-weather and shade-tolerant crops like lettuce, chard, kale, radishes, and beets do well with just three to four hours of sun 

• Spacing in a vegetable garden can be much tighter than in other types of gardens. Less empty space means fewer weeds and bigger harvests. Square foot gardening is an excellent method to explore
• Layer your garden beds with plants that are great companions. For example, basil and marigolds planted beside tomatoes are said to improve flavour and repel pests. Carrot and beet seeds tucked in beside and between your lettuce plants (which are a cool-weather crop) are a smart pairing; as your lettuce finishes in the summer heat, your carrots and beets will be sprouting up to take their place. This is referred to as succession planting and optimizes the space in your garden
• Make use of vertical space with poles or trellises for peas, pole beans and cucumbers
• Tuck herbs into any gaps between your vegetables; they’re useful, beautiful, and most pollinators love them

Step 3: Prepare Your Space

Once you’ve chosen a spot with enough light, it’s time to get the soil ready:

• Remove any sod or weeds before planting. If you’d rather not dig, the No Dig gardening method uses a layer of cardboard as the base for the new bed. This suppresses weeds naturally and breaks down into the soil over time
• Add a good-quality compost to your soil by either spreading a layer across the top of the garden bed or scooping some into each plant hole 
• For container gardening, almost any container works, just make sure it’s deep and wide enough for the mature size of your plants. Also, drainage holes are a must! Fill containers with a soilless mix containing compost, peat moss or a peat alternative, and one of the following: sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Avoid using garden soil, triple mix, or topsoil in containers, as they compact easily and will restrict root growth. Learn more about soil mixes, amendments, and fertilizers here

Step 4: Water and Feed Consistently

Consistent watering and feeding are the foundation of a productive vegetable garden:

• Vegetables need regular, reliable watering. Inconsistent moisture leads to stressed plants and poor yields
• Always water the soil, not the leaves. Plant roots take in water, and wet foliage can invite disease. Water deeply so moisture reaches the roots. Use your fingers to check how far down the water has penetrated into the soil
• Containers dry out faster than garden beds and will need more frequent attention
• Morning is the best time to water. If your plants are struggling on a particularly hot afternoon, a second watering is fine. Just be sure to aim at the base of the plant and avoid the foliage, which can scorch in direct sun
• Feed with organic fertilizers throughout the season to keep your plants healthy and productive. Follow the package instructions for the product you choose

Step 5: Plant Flowers for Your Pollinators

A vegetable garden without pollinators is a garden that won’t reach its full potential. Attracting bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects to your garden is one of the best things you can do for your harvest. Some of our favourite pollinator-friendly flowers for the vegetable garden include marigold, calendula, nasturtium, borage, sunflowers and culinary lavender. As a bonus, most of these are edible, so they earn their space twice over.

It’s Time

Starting a vegetable garden is one of the most rewarding things you can do with an outdoor space. There’s a quiet satisfaction in growing something from seed or a seedling and bringing it to your own table. 

Start simple, grow what you love and don’t be afraid to learn as you go. 

The team at Eising Garden Centre is always happy to help you choose the right plants for your space and answer any questions along the way. This could be the season that changes the way you think about your garden!

Resources:

Why Use a Garden Journal?: https://eising.ca/why-use-a-garden-journal/

Square Foot Gardening: https://www.almanac.com/planning-square-foot-garden-grow-more-less-space

Fertilizers & Soil Amendments: https://eising.ca/fertilizers-soil-amendments/

Companion Planting: https://eising.ca/companion-planting-with-herbs/ and https://eising.ca/incorporating-vegetables-into-your-garden/

Optimizing the Gardening Season: https://eising.ca/optimizing-the-gardening-season/

No Dig Gardening Method: https://charlesdowding.co.uk/blogs/no-dig-resources/beginners-guide

Reading Plant Tags: https://eising.ca/full-sun-part-shade-what-do-plant-tags-actually-mean/

Growing Vegetables in Pots: https://eising.ca/planters-are-for-more-than-flowers/

By Ava Green

As soon as warm weather and sunshine arrive in Southern Ontario, it’s time to head to the garden centre and pick up all the plants we’ve been dreaming about all winter long! May 24th is generally the date we look forward to — the unofficial marker when frosty mornings are behind us and the promise of summer is ahead. 

By now, cool-weather plants like cabbage, Brussels sprouts, peas, and lettuce should be well established in the vegetable garden. And for everything else, it’s go time!

TIP: Before you start planting, this is the ideal time to amend your soil. Top up your garden beds with fresh topsoil or enrich them with compost to improve soil health, add nutrients, and promote vigorous plant growth. Don’t forget to refresh the soil in your containers as well, with potting mix or compost.

Warm Weather Vegetables

When soil temperatures are consistently 60°F (15°C) or higher, it’s safe to plant all the warm-weather vegetable crops we’ve been waiting for! Plants that thrive in warmer weather include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini and corn.

At Eising Garden Centre, you’ll find vegetables in 6-packs, 4” pots, trellised patio containers, patio bowls and hanging baskets - while supplies last, of course!

Herbs also love warm weather, and tender varieties like basil are safe to plant once all danger of frost has passed. Whether you plant herbs directly into the ground or create a potted herb garden near the kitchen door, they’ll add fresh flavour to your meals all season long. A container of herbs also makes a wonderful gift when visiting friends and family for a summer BBQ.

While you’re in the vegetable and herb aisle, keep an eye out for everbearing strawberries in planters and containers of tropical fruits like lemons, limes, and oranges.

Annual Flowers

Winter-weary flower beds can be revived almost instantly with a burst of colourful annuals! If you’re looking for an immediate impact and blooms that last all summer long, annual flowers are the answer.

Whether you plant them in beds, containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets — or choose from one of our gorgeous pre-planted options — just add water and fertilizer, and you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant display that keeps on giving.

Perennials

While perennials may not bloom all summer, many offer extended bloom periods, and by combining different varieties, you can create a succession of flowers that lasts for months. Perennials also provide essential greenery to anchor your garden and enhance the look of your flowering plants.

You can plant perennials from spring through fall, but getting them into the ground now gives them a strong start. From hostas and ornamental grasses to daisies and delphiniums, there’s a perennial for every style of garden — and the best part is, they’ll return each spring like dependable old friends.

Trees, Shrubs and Vines

Often called “the bones” of the garden, trees, shrubs, and climbing vines add essential structure, height, and seasonal interest. Planting them now allows you to design your garden layers thoughtfully, incorporating annuals and perennials around their base.

Spring is also the prime time to purchase and plant fruit trees and fruiting shrubs. At Eising, spring offers the best selection for starting your home orchard. Are you thinking of adding a few edible shrubs? Gooseberries, haskaps, hardy kiwi, rhubarb and raspberries are excellent choices.

Mulch

Okay, it’s not a plant, but this is a reminder to add mulch to your garden beds or containers. After planting, adding a layer of mulch to your garden beds or containers helps retain soil moisture, reduces transplant shock, and suppresses weeds. Even if a few weeds manage to sneak through, mulch makes them easier to pull.

Water Garden Plants

If you have a garden pond, spring is the perfect time to add water plants. Floating plants, such as water hyacinths and water lilies, help shade the pond’s surface, reducing algae blooms. Marginal or bog plants, such as water iris, papyrus, and cattails, also help keep the water healthy and clear by improving oxygen levels and providing habitats for beneficial wildlife.

Time to Grow!

May is one of the most anticipated and exciting months in the garden. Whether you’re dreaming of fresh vegetables, a lush landscape, or a colourful flower display, planting now sets the stage for a beautiful, bountiful season. Visit us at Eising Garden Centre to find everything you need — and let’s get growing!

How to Keep Your Hanging Basket as Gorgeous as the Day You Brought it Home, All Summer Long!

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Remember your Mother's Day hanging basket with its variety of colours, textures, and plant combinations? Maybe there was Verbena cascading elegantly with their colourful star like blossoms, double Begonias for the porch in spectacular shades of reds, pinks, and burgundies, and of course the vigorously growing Petunias and Geraniums, to name just a few. But as the Summer goes on, they just don’t seem to have that same stamina.

   To keep your hanging baskets in great shape and avoid the dry, wilted, bald spotted, leggy look that occurs to containers every August, one should follow these easy tips.

Watering

Plastic, fibre, and especially moss lined baskets dry out quickly. They should be checked twice daily and watered every day. Be sure to wet the moss sides as well.

   Try to maintain uniform soil moisture. When watering, fill the top of the container with pooling water until it ‘pees,’ and allow it to drip out of the bottom of the basket every time you apply water. Frequent severe wilting will impact upon the quality of the basket.

   At this time of year, one could take the basket down and soak it in a tub of water for 20 minutes to hydrate the entire root ball, once every week.

Deadheading

Remove spent flowers on a weekly basis (this is called deadheading) to prevent plants from going to seed. This will encourage more flower production. Part of the beauty of the mixed basket is its prolonged display, just like in your garden.

Check for Pests!

During your weekly deadheading, keep a watchful eye out for aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars. If you see any, try a quick spray of insecticidal soap to keep them from becoming an infestation.

🖱️ If you're noticing fungus gnats in your hanging baskets, find more on eradicating them here!

Pruning

Not every plant in the basket will be at its peak all season.

   Cutting plants back after a flush of bloom will tidy them up and prepare them for a fresh crop of flowers. Meanwhile, other varieties will begin putting on a show. This is especially true for Petunias.

    A good cut back of long, lanky branches will reap benefits.

Fertilizing

Daily watering means nutrients can leach out of the soil before the plants can absorb them. The baskets should have both slow release granular added to the growing media and a weekly feeding of 15-30-15 soluble fertilizer. Use a solution containing micronutrients, as plants like Petunias need extra iron.

Sheltering

It has been suggested, if possible, that during stretches of extreme heat, give your baskets a break and move them to a cooler, shaded spot to de-stress for a couple of days. This is also suggested when heading on vacation. Your flowers will rebound to their former beautiful selves!

We hope this long term hanging basket care guide helps you enjoy your purchase all summer long! For more information - and beautiful plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌸

Dealing with water restrictions or choosing to conserve water? You’re not alone. Many gardeners in Norfolk County are facing the challenge of keeping gardens thriving with less water. The good news? A lush, colourful garden is still within reach—thanks to drought-tolerant perennials.

When we think of drought-tolerant plants, cacti might be the first thing that comes to mind. But there’s a surprising variety of beautiful, hardy perennials that can handle our region’s dry spells—no desert landscape required.

While these plants do need regular watering when first planted, once established, they’re low-maintenance and well-suited to Southern Ontario’s climate, including periods of limited rainfall.

Full Sun Ground Cover

• Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens)
• Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii)
• Hardy ice plant (Delosperma nubigenum)
• Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)
• Moss phlox, creeping phlox (Phlox subulata)
• Pincushion flower (Scabiosa japonica var. alpina) (S. ‘Butterfly Blue’)
• Pinks (Dianthus alpinus)
• Rock cress, wall cress (Arabis species)
• Rock rose, sun rose (Helianthemum hybrids)
• Spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites) (E. polychroma)
• Stonecrop (Sedum acre) - dwarf varieties
• Thrift, sea pink (Armeria maritima)
• Thyme (Thymus species)

Full Sun, Medium to Tall Plants

• Beard-tongue (Penstemon digitalis) – Native
• Bergenia (Bergenia crassifolia)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – Native
• Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora)
• Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) – Native
• False indigo, wild indigo (Baptisia australis)
• Hairy penstemon (Penstemon hirsutus) – Native
• Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) – Native
• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
• Orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’)
• Perennial cornflower (Centaurea montana)
• Poppy (Papaver species)
• Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
• Prickly pear cactus (Opuntia compressa) – Native
• Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
• Salvia (Salvia nemerosa hybrids)
• Sea Holly (Eryngium species)
• Silver sage, wormwood (Artemisia ludoviciana)
• Threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) – Native
• Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)  

Full Sun Grasses

• Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) – Native
• Blue fescue (Festuca glauca)
• Blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)
• Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)
• Little blue stem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Native
• Switch grass (Panicum virgatum) – Native

Groundcover for Shade

• Barrenwort (Epimedium hybrids)
• Bigroot geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum)
• Canada anemone (Anemone canadensis) – Native
• Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera)
• Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum)
• Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) – Native
• Woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata) – Native

Medium to Tall Plants for Shade

• False Solomon’s seal (Maianthemum racemosum) – Native
• Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum) – Native

Ferns for Dry Shade

• Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) – Native
• Hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula) – Native
• Marginal wood fern (Dryopteris marginalis) – Native
• Male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) – Native
• Rock fern (Polypodium virginianum) – Native

A Little TLC

It doesn’t take much to keep drought-tolerant plants thriving—just a little attention and some seasonal TLC. While they’re tough, even these hardy perennials appreciate an occasional deep watering during extended dry spells, especially in their first year.

For sun-loving perennials, skip the heavy fertilizers. Instead, an annual layer of compost is all they need to stay healthy and strong.

Shade-loving drought-tolerant plants, on the other hand, benefit from a layer of mulch. This helps retain moisture and reduces evaporation, especially in dry shade, which is one of the most challenging conditions for any plant to thrive in.

And don’t forget to deadhead regularly! Removing spent blooms encourages your plants to keep producing flowers instead of going to seed, meaning more colour, for longer.

With a few simple care tips, your drought-tolerant garden can remain beautiful and resilient throughout the entire season.

Other resources:

• Landscape Ontario: Eight Beautiful Drought Tolerant Plants
• Toronto Master Gardeners: Drought Tolerant Plants
• Guelph.ca: Drought Tolerant Native Plants

For tomato lovers, picking a warm, flavourful tomato right off the plant for a sandwich, burger, or salad is a sure sign of summer!  I eagerly await the day the first fruit begins to turn red, knowing that I am a day or two away from the first of many toasted tomato sandwiches for the season!

By the end of June, your tomato plants should be in the ground or pot, staked, and well on their way to producing fruit. But how do you keep your plants healthy all summer so that you can maximize your investment? Here are a few tips to help keep your tomato sandwiches coming until frost!

Water

Water early in the morning and water deeply. For tomatoes, consistent moisture is best.

Keep the water on the ground, not on the foliage. This is important because damp foliage can lead to diseases like early blight, which can ultimately cause the entire plant to die. Mulching around the base of plants will reduce the amount of water that can splash up onto the leaves. A soaker hose or drip line is also a great way to ensure that water stays on the ground, rather than on the plant.

Pruning

Reducing the amount of foliage on a tomato plant is necessary for a couple of reasons: good air flow, which reduces the chance of powdery mildew forming, and less foliage means that the plant can send energy to growing fruit instead of lots of leaves.

Follow these easy steps when you prune your tomato plants:

• Before you begin, remember to follow the rule for pruning - no more than ⅓ of a plant should be removed at a time. 

• Use clean scissors or pruning shears to cut the leaves off the bottom of the plant. Remove any leaves that are touching the ground. These are particularly susceptible to mildew formation.

When fruit starts forming, remove the leaves from the bottom of the plant up to the first or lowest fruit.

Remove suckers ongoingly. What are suckers? When you look at your tomato plant, you will see the main stem that comes up from the ground, and branches of leaves that come out of the main stem. As the plant grows, suckers begin to form in the “Y” between the main stem and a branch of leaves. Suckers won’t harm a plant; they just make it very unruly and reduce airflow.

If your tomatoes are indeterminate (growing into a tall vine), remove the top of the plant when frost is forecasted at the end of the season. Topping the plant allows energy to ripen the fruit that’s already set, rather than being used to continue growing the vine.

NOTE: Some gardeners like to leave suckers on determinate tomato plants as this can increase the yield.

TIP: Tomatoes ripen from the inside out. That means that by the time you see fruit beginning to flush on the outside, the inside is already ripe. If you have competition for tomatoes from pesky critters, or when there’s a chance of frost in the weather forecast, you can pick fruit that has just begun to turn colour and leave it on the kitchen counter to continue to ripen. 

Fertilizer

Using organic material is one of the best ways to feed your crop. A good layer of compost, 1-2 inches, in the spring when you’re planting and again in the fall each year is one of the best ways to improve your soil structure in the garden, and it also adds lots of nutrition. 

If you missed this step when planting your garden, you can always add a layer of compost around your plants or use other organic fertilizers, such as compost tea, seaweed, worm castings, or fish emulsion.

Alternatively, you can use a fertilizer that’s formulated especially for tomatoes - these usually have a ratio like 3-4-6 or 4-7-10. Follow label directions for amounts and err on the side of caution. Using less fertilizer is always better than using too much, as an excess can stress the plant and make it more prone to disease.

Following these simple steps for tomato care will help to ensure your plants stay healthy and producing fruit, but if you should have problems, here are some great resources to identify tomato issues:

• Ontario.ca: Bacterial diseases of tomato: bacterial spot, bacterial speck and bacterial canker
• Guelph.ca: Healthy Landscapes – Plant List Native and Drought-Tolerant Plants

Whether you’re just starting to explore the world of unusual plants, or you’re already an avid collector, there are a wide array of weird and wonderful houseplants to satisfy your quest for something a little different. 

Tropical plants and houseplants come in every shape, size, texture, and colour imaginable, plus some you would never have imagined! 

Exotic houseplants often have striking appearances which make them valuable as eye-catching focal points in your decor. The range of distinctive features can also make them a natural choice to express your personality and style. 

Like your more common houseplants, unusual varieties can also contribute to indoor air quality, as well as the overall benefits to your well-being that come with having living plants in the home.

The unique characteristics of rare or unusual houseplants often have interesting backgrounds. Learning about their natural habitats and origins only makes them more intriguing! 

Here are some wild and wonderful houseplants that will add interesting foliage, blooms, or both to your home right now!

Pitcher Plant

A rare and exotic group of tropical plants with pitcher-shaped leaves that are carnivorous. That’s right, they eat insects to obtain the nutrients they need! This means that with most varieties you do not have to fertilize them. Most are happy catching a bug or two for food. 

Keep this plant from drying out completely between waterings by temporarily placing it in a water-filled tray to absorb moisture through the roots. Remove the pot from the tray once it’s saturated, and allow the excess water to drain away. Pitcher plants prefer pure, mineral-free water like rainwater. No tap water for these precious prima donnas! 

One Pitcher Plant variety that we love is Miranda (aka Nepenthes x Miranda). From tropical Malaysia, it is a very large pitcher plant with attractive spotted pitchers that can be over 18” wide when fully mature. Because of its size, it is quite effective at catching larger insects like wasps. It’s easy to grow, either in a sunny window or outdoors (only in the summer) and is heat tolerant but not drought tolerant. 

ZZ Plants

Native to East Africa, Zamioculcas zamiifolia is also known as the houseplant ZZ, or Zanzibar Gem. While the name is complicated, this plant is not fussy at all, making it great for beginners! ZZ will thrive in almost any lighting conditions except direct sunlight, plus it is drought tolerant so you can allow it to dry out between waterings.

 

The biggest attraction to the Zanzibar Gem though is its thick, dark green and glossy leaves that almost look fake! If that sounds intriguing, hang on. There’s more!

Black Raven ZZ is a new variation with stunningly dramatic black-toned leaves. Unique to be sure, but luckily with the same low care requirements!

Cactus

There are so many weird and wonderful varieties of cacti that come in all shapes and sizes! These sun-loving plants require little care, but here are a couple of tips that will keep them looking sharp. (Ouch!). 

1. Give their pot a little turn each day so that your plant is eventually exposed to light on all sides. This saves you from having a lopsided cactus. 
2. Water is essential but monitor how often your cacti need it. In the winter, when they’re dormant, they will need less water. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Using room-temperature rainwater is ideal. Tap water contains minerals which can disrupt the flow of nutrients to the cactus. Water it well, then allow the excess moisture to drain away rather than pool under the plant. Cacti don’t necessarily need fertilizer, but they do welcome a feeding during their summer growing season. We can help you choose a fertilizer that’s been specially formulated for cactus to ensure the proper nutrient ratio.

A few varieties of cacti that we love are: 

• Monkey Tail (Hildewintera colademonosis)
• Boobie (Myrtillocactus Geometrizans Fukurokuryuzinboku)
• Spiral (Cereus forbesii Spiralis)  

With their evocative names and exotic shapes, cacti are so much fun to grow! And don’t be surprised if the kids want to have a few to call their own.  

Stop by Eising Greenhouses and see what we have in store. While you’re here, say hello to Courtney who is always happy to talk about unusual houseplants!

Ah, the sanctuary of a nice, cool shade garden on a hot summer day. Lush foliage comes to mind, and maybe a nap in a hammock. But what do you do when you have a shady spot in the garden that isn’t so lush and could use a boost? A planted container or two can be just the thing! 

Here’s a scenario that can happen to any of us. A plant isn’t doing well and needs to be moved. Or maybe something just didn’t survive. Now what to do with that gap? The beauty of planting in pots is that you can move them around, but also create conditions for plants that you might not have in the garden. For example, one of the toughest places to grow anything is in dry shade - tree roots can compete for space and for moisture. That’s when planting in a container, or several is the way to go.

What is a Shade Garden?

In general, a shade garden is an area that gets less than six hours of sunlight in a day. When choosing plants, remember that some will tolerate shade better than others. When it comes to plants, shady areas are divided into three categories:

• Full shade - no direct sunlight, only reflected sunlight from surrounding areas
• Partial or Semi shade - in the sun for part of the day and shade for the rest
• Light shade - sunlight that is filtered, like under a tree with smaller leaves

Choosing Containers and Pots

While containers can be made out of a variety of materials like plastic, concrete, wood or fiberglass, the key is using a pot with at least one drainage hole. 

Keep in mind that smaller pots will dry out more quickly. Larger pots retain moisture longer, but when they’re full of soil and plants they get heavy. Look for a Goldilocks pot that’s “just right”, or splurge on a Schwarzenegger-sized pot if you’re looking to build up those biceps!

Whatever pot size you choose, always use a growing medium that’s designed especially for containers. At Eising Garden Centre you’ll find potting mix which is light and airy, unlike garden soil, which will compact and retain too much moisture. If you’re using a big container, you may want to use a smaller, more shallow pot as an insert, or put natural mulch in the bottom before you add potting soil. Doing this will reduce the amount of soil used, and keep the container lighter as well.

Plant Selection

This is the fun part! While many plants do well in pots, here are just some of our favourite shade plants for containers:

Coleus

Coleus is an annual that will grow in full shade and comes in a variety of very interesting leaf colours. This plant is known for its vibrant leaf colours, not its blooms.

Begonia

Begonias come in a wide variety of shapes and colours, making them a versatile annual for containers. Some varieties are happy in full shade, while others like light, or filtered shade. Most begonias like good drainage so their roots are not too wet.

Impatiens

These annuals are popular for a reason!  They come in a wide range of very brightly coloured flowers that do well in full shade.

Trailing Lobelia

The trailing type of Lobelia is an annual that grows well in shade. The masses of prolific blooms come in many pretty colours to mix and match with other plants.

Caladium

A showy annual with vibrantly coloured leaves that will illuminate any shady area. Caladiums like partial to full shade but if you’re a pet owner be careful - this plant is toxic to cats and dogs.

Heuchera or Coral Bells

Coral Bells are perennials that also come in a wide variety of beautiful leaf colours. This plant will thrive in shade, but can also tolerate some sun and they are drought tolerant.

Hosta

Known for its lush foliage, this perennial comes in such a wide variety of sizes, colours, and sun tolerance, and is by far a favourite. Many people don’t think of it as a container plant but for all of the features mentioned, it makes a great choice as a potted plant.

Fertilizer

Like all plants in containers, check the moisture levels often and provide water and fertilizer throughout the growing season. This article contains more information on caring for annuals and perennials.

Design

While you can mix and match any plants for shade containers, this article about container design ideas for sun-loving annuals may inspire you! 

As mentioned above, many plants will do very well in containers. It’s also fun to experiment with annuals and perennials you can’t necessarily grow in the garden, or for anyone with a patio or balcony. Don’t be afraid to mix annuals and perennials together in a container, or to use one statement plant. Some potted plants will need extra protection in the winter like perennials, small trees, and shrubs, but growing plants in containers is a great way to add a splash of colour, or include some bold foliage in tough-to-grow areas.