Clematis, the climbing plant that looks far too elegant and exotic to be growing in Ontario! Not only beautiful, Clematis gets along well with climbing roses (this is a gorgeous combination), trees, shrubs, and perennials. Different varieties of Clematis can also be grown together and provide a succession of blooms!

The variety of shapes, sizes, and colours available make Clematis a very desirable plant. Ranging from delicate, white, bell-shaped blossoms to dreamy, pastel rosettes, or sumptuous, deep purple double-flowers, and everything in between.

A stroll through the garden centre is a must to peruse Clematis labels and choose the ones that are most appealing to you. The varieties that we have will all suit our southern Ontario climate. 

While the blooms vary widely, planting Clematis is straightforward. A few simple considerations when planting will help avoid root stress or Clematis Wilt, which are common problems when the location is wrong and the soil isn’t enriched. Here are some simple steps to ensure success!

Location, location, location!

Clematis like at least 6 hours of sunlight a day, but not an excessively hot location. Some shade in the late afternoon will extend the length of time that a bloom looks good.

Provide Support

A trellis, archway, arbor, or even a shrub or tree, all make excellent supports for your clematis. Install a well-secured support system first, to avoid damaging your clematis roots.

Soil is the Key

Fertile, well-drained soil is essential to successfully growing Clematis. These vines are heavy feeders and require nutrients to produce their show-stopping flowers. Prepare your soil by mixing in plenty of compost or well-rotted manure.

Prepare the Planting Site

Dig a hole that’s as deep as it is wide. Use the plant as your guide and dig approximately 13 cm or 5 inches deeper than the root ball. Add some of the soil that’s been amended with compost, then check to see that your plant is sitting at the right height - the top of the root ball should be even with the soil around it. Once the root ball is sitting at the right height, backfill the rest of the hole with more amended soil and gently firm the soil around the plant with your hands.

Watering

Water deeply after planting, and keep the soil and root ball moist, not water-logged, throughout the season. Be sure to water at soil level, not with an overhead sprinkler which can scorch leaves and flowers.

Mulch

Mulch the soil around your plant to help suppress weeds and maintain moisture. Compost, organic shredded bark, or straw works well.

Fertilizer

Fertilize regularly throughout the season, or apply a slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of the season to maximize the blooming potential of your Clematis. For more information about fertilizer, see this article about caring for annuals and perennials.

Pruning

Pruning instructions are often included on your plant label as requirements vary from variety to variety. If in doubt, there are many growers who recommend pruning early blooming Clematis a little, after they bloom, to maintain the desired shape of the plant. For later blooming types, cut the vines right back to 45-60 cm in early spring.

Following these steps will provide a healthy environment for your Clematis to thrive. But be careful, Clematis are like potato chips - bet you can’t have just one!

You’ve selected your annual and perennial plants, chosen their location in the garden, amended the soil and everything is planted. Or close to it!  Now what? How can you take care of them to maximize their potential?  A bit of simple and easy maintenance will keep your plants healthy and blooming.

Once they start blooming, most annuals will flower all season long, until cold temperatures or frost put an end to their display. Many perennials will bloom for several weeks. We listed some of our favourites in this article if you missed it.

Here are some simple tips to keep your plants looking great!

Water

Newly planted annuals and perennials, even drought tolerant plants need to be watered at planting time. 

Perennials will need water every week for the first two weeks and during periods without rain. Most perennials do well with a minimum of one inch of water per week.  

Water is absorbed through the roots, so water the soil and not the foliage. Low (pressure) and slow (volume) allows water to adequately soak into the soil instead of running all over the place! It’s also best to water in the morning rather than at night because foliage that stays wet all night is susceptible to rot and foliar diseases. 

Annuals planted in containers will need to be watered more frequently than annuals in a flower bed. Hanging baskets and planters will most likely need water daily, and in the heat of summer twice a day. For hanging baskets, the water should run out of the bottom. 

In planters or the garden, use your finger in the soil to test it out - if it feels dry, your plant needs water.

Mulch

Mulch is always a very good idea to maintain soil health in the garden no matter what you’re planting!

An organic mulch will help enrich your soil, and keep it moist. A layer of at least 2 inches of mulch will also suppress weeds. Who doesn’t love that? The only caveat: don’t allow the mulch to touch your plants.

Deadhead

Deadheading or removing flowers that have finished blooming is important for many plants. Doing this allows the energy from the plant to be sent to producing new blossoms in annuals, and some perennials.  

How do you do it? Take sharp, clean scissors or pruners, and cut off any dead flowers just below the base of the flower or above the first leaf. With some plants you can simply break off the spent flowers.

Bonus: your plants will look much better without dead flowers on them! 

Note: some annuals don’t need deadheading. For example, Verbena, Lantana, Lobelia, Impatiens, Petunias, and Begonia.

Fertilizer

Let’s face it, fertilizer packaging can be confusing. They often feature three letters and three numbers. What does it all mean? What is N-P-K? This Eising article explains all you need to know about fertilizing and is worth the read. 

However, in a nutshell, this is a really easy way to remember the function of N (nitrogen), P (phosphorous and K (potassium) when it comes to fertilizing. The numbers are the percentage of each of those nutrients that the fertilizer package contains. 

N = UP - foliage and blooms

P = DOWN - roots

K = ALL AROUND - overall plant health

If you used an organic, slow-release fertilizer when you planted your annuals or perennials in the ground, you shouldn’t have to fertilize again during the season. 

Most potting soil in planters or hanging baskets contains the nutrients needed to help your plants get started. An easy way to maintain nutrients throughout the season is sprinkling Shake n’ Feed Ultra Bloom 10-18-9 slow release fertilizer on top of the soil. It will slowly  feed your plants for three months.  For heavy feeders like petunias or plants that are hungry, looking light, and in need of an instant boost, use a water-soluble fertilizer with an NPK ratio of approximately 20-20-20 every two weeks to keep them blooming. 

For perennials, trees and shrubs that need more nutrients during the year, Shake n’ Feed slow release 18-6-12 fertilizer can be applied in the spring and it will feed your plants for three months during the growing season. The same fertilizer can be used for trees, shrubs and perennials in subsequent seasons.

As a rule of thumb, it’s better to under-fertilize and watch how your plants respond. Over-fertilizing can lead to sick plants that have yellow or brown leaves. In your garden, the only way to know what your plants need is to test the soil. Otherwise you’re guessing! To test your soil in Ontario, samples can be sent to The University of Guelph.

Let’s face it, summers are short and when we invest in plants we all want annuals and perennials that are long blooming. Flowers that last the duration of the summer are ideal! To achieve this, there are a few things to consider like: the plants you choose, good soil, and the amount of sun the flowers will get. When you come into Eising Garden Centre we can help you find sun or shade loving plants, and soil for your hanging pots, planters or garden beds, but to get started you’ll find some of our favourite plants listed below. First, a little plant primer that will help you make decisions.

Annual? Perennial? What’s the Difference?

Annuals and perennials are in separate areas of the greenhouse because they are plants that we will treat differently in the garden. 

Here is the best way to remember the difference:

• Annual plants are planted every year, annually, as they will not survive the winter
• Perennial plant’s roots survive the winter and the plant will regrow each Spring

It’s good to know the difference, right? Now you know what to expect from the plants you buy!

Because Annuals and Perennials are in separate areas of the greenhouse, you might think that the two don’t mix in the garden, but they absolutely do. For example, Perennials can make a great backdrop for Annuals. Or, a well placed pot of Annuals amongst Perennials or shrubs can fill in a gap, or bring a pop of colour once other blooms have faded. Using Annuals, Perennials and Shrubs together can really maximize the beauty in your space! 

If you’re not sure where to start, here are some of our favourite sun loving flowering plants that are easy to grow and long blooming!

Annual Flowers

• Petunias are one of the most popular blooming annuals for many reasons - there are a wide variety to choose from, they have a wonderful scent, they’re easy to grow and they bloom from Spring until frost.
• Zinnia flowers are low maintenance, fairly drought tolerant, come in many bright colours, will also bloom continuously from Spring until frost, and will attract butterflies to your garden! All things considered, they are one of the best annuals to grow. 
• Geraniums are great for containers, hanging baskets, or as bedding plants and come in a variety of leaf shapes and bloom colours. Another reason why these Annuals are so popular is that they are easy to grow and will keep producing flowers late into the Fall.
• Marigolds come in vibrant colours and are another no-fuss Annual that’s tried and true. These long lasting flowers will also attract butterflies, bees,  lady bugs, and other beneficial insects making them very good companion plants in any garden but especially your vegetable garden.
• Cosmos will bloom from late Spring into Fall especially if you remove dead flowers. In return, these colourful, daisy-like flowers will attract pollinating insects as well as birds. Cosmos are also fairly drought tolerant making it a delightful and easy to grow Annual.

Perennial Flowers

• Salvia have spikes of flowers that are long blooming, on plants that are easy to grow, and drought tolerant once they are established. These low maintenance plants will attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds, and are deer and rabbit-resistant.
• Coreopsis is another drought tolerant perennial that will bloom summer through fall. Flowers are daisy-like and come in vibrant shades of yellow or red.
• Coneflower or Echinacea is a daisy-like flower that is drought-tolerant and long blooming. These sturdy plants have flowers in a wide range of colours from chartreuse to pink, orange, red, and yellow. They come in a range of blossom shapes which make them even more intriguing. If that wasn’t enough, they are also loved by birds and pollinators!
• Rudbeckia, or Black-Eyed Susan are classic perennials that liven up any garden with their sunny colours ranging from yellow to bronzy orange. This durable plant is popular because it is drought-tolerant, pollinators love it, and it’s long blooming.

While most annuals provide a continuous succession of flowers, perennials tend to bloom for two to six weeks. Many perennials will bloom, rest, and then rebloom if you cut off, or deadhead, any spent flowers. A little tender loving care for your annuals and perennials throughout the summer will help blooms last as long as possible. We’ll cover that in our next blog!

March is the month that many of us have waited for all winter. It’s seed-starting time for lots of heat loving vegetables, herbs and flowers that will be transplanted outside in May or June. 

It’s also time to plan for cool weather crops. Cool weather crops?! This can be a revelation to many of us who are new to growing vegetables. There are two kinds of vegetable plants; heat loving and cold hardy. On average, most cold hardy veggies can withstand temperatures of -4 celsius and can be planted out weeks before the last frost date, especially if they are covered. We’ve listed some covering ideas at the end of this article.

So where do you begin? If it’s your first time starting heat loving vegetable seeds indoors, try beginning with one or two vegetable varieties that you love. How about an heirloom tomato that you just can’t find grown anywhere else, or some super hot peppers to spice things up? The seed carousels at Eising Garden Centre are fully stocked with vegetables and flowers right now so it’s the best time to come in and find something exciting to grow! Check the back of each seed packet, it will tell you how many weeks before the last frost date (around May 24th here in southern Ontario) to start your seeds indoors. There are also a few supplies you’ll need to get started - instructions and the essentials are listed in this blog post. It takes a little more work to start seeds indoors, but it can be very fulfilling and it does allow you to grow things that are unusual. 

If starting seeds indoors sounds like too much work, we’ve got you covered - visit Eising Garden Centre in May to shop our wide selection of vegetables, herbs and flowers that you can easily transplant and enjoy! 

If you’re eager to get gardening, why not try some cold hardy veggies? In Southern Ontario, cool weather vegetables can be planted early in Spring. This allows you to grow and harvest a whole crop before the heat loving veggies like tomatoes and peppers, and most annual flowers get transplanted around May 24th (hardiness zone 6b), or when overnight temperatures are regularly a minimum of 10 celsius. 

Here are some cool weather vegetables to consider planting as soon as the soil in your garden is workable (not frozen solid):

Lettuce is a crop that you can direct seed or transplant early, and it can be seeded every two weeks throughout the spring and fall for continuous crops. Lettuce seeds will germinate in about 7 days at a soil temperature of only 10º celsius but the optimal soil temperature is between 16-24 degrees. Do not worry about running out to buy a soil thermometer, or waiting until the soil temperatures are exact - all of the cool weather crops will germinate at slightly lower temperatures, they’ll just take a little longer. We also offer lettuce plants in the garden centre in early May if you would like to transplant established greens. Starting with a few plants, and some seeds will ensure a continuous crop of lettuces for several weeks. 
Lettuce can be grown in the shade in early summer. It will last longer in the shade as temperatures climb, and not bolt (plant begins growing seeds instead of leaves, making leaves on the plant bitter) as quickly.


Spinach and Arugula like lettuce, are very well suited to germinating early in spring or in the fall. The optimal soil temperature range for germination is 18º-24º C and will take about 12 days. 
Lettuce, Spinach and Arugula grow best in cool temperatures and tend to bolt as soon as temperatures warm up in late spring and early summer. Look for “bolt-resistant” varieties if you want to extend your late spring harvests.

Radishes can be planted throughout the early spring if you’d like a continual harvest of tender, young radishes. It takes about 30 days from germination to harvest, sometimes less for smaller varieties. Seeds will germinate at soil temperatures anywhere between 4º-35ºC which makes them easy to start!

Peas love early spring and cool fall temperatures! They will germinate quickly when the soil is between 18º- 24ºC and will be ready to harvest in late spring or early summer. This is another vegetable that you can start again as autumn sets in. 

Carrots grown in the spring can be harvested early in the summer making way for heat loving crops like peppers and tomatoes. Carrots will germinate in a wide range of soil temperatures, and can be planted outdoors about 4 weeks before the last frost date. Late in summer, as you remove the heat loving crops, you can seed more carrots for harvest in late fall or early winter.

Beets are another vegetable that can be sown in a wide range of soil temperatures. Because of this, you can start planting beet seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, and you can continue seeding beets every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest.
Green Onions (aka Scallions or Spring Onions), Kale, Chard, Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, Swiss Chard, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Radicchio, Fennel and Cilantro are also seeds that can be planted in hardiness zone 6b in early spring when the soil can be worked.

Keep in mind that while these vegetables grow in cool weather, they may still be slow to grow or even damaged if the temperatures dip too low. If this happens, you may want to provide some protection like row cover cloth, a blanket, plastic, a cold frame, or a cloche (this can simply be a large plastic jug or containers).

If this article has piqued your interest, here are some great resources to help with seed starting and transplanting timing:

West Coast Seeds Vegetable Planting Guide

Heeman Ontario Seed Starting Guide

 

Reference for soil temperatures:

https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/164220.pdf 

The promise of Spring signals the season of revitalization, even for your wardrobe. Wouldn’t it be great to open your closet and find clothes that go together and that fit? Also, why is it that just when you find the perfect pair of black pants, there is never anything in the closet that seems to go with them?

Reorganizing your closet so that you can find what you need and know what is missing is easier than you might think. Even if you are already organized and can effortlessly pull an outfit together, this is always a great exercise to freshen things up. A revitalized closet just makes life easier! And organizing each year can be a quick, simple task that is quite enjoyable. Especially when you know there’s a payoff at the end of the job - getting something new to add to the mix!

These simple steps will help you see what items you need to update your closet. Then, when you come in to shop, you will know whether you need something with a burst of colour to freshen things up, like a colour block tee, or one of the great graphic tees at Sassyfras. Or maybe you bought a men’s dryweave shirt from us last year, and one just isn’t enough to use for sports, supper out, and that vacation in Spain. Once you follow this plan, you will know, and it will probably save you money.

If you set an afternoon aside, and do this with a friend - in person or on a video chat - time will fly by. Or, just put on some good music now and let’s get started.

1 - Make a Pile

First take everything out of your closet. Empty out drawers and all the things on the shelves above and below, including those birthday presents you meant to give out last year. Put it all on the bed or the floor, depending on the amount of space needed.

2 - Sort

Grab five boxes, bags or bins and label them as: Keep, Donate, Sell, Other and Trash.

As you pick up each article of clothing from the pile, decide which of the five containers it should go into. It can be a tough thing to do if you hate to part with old favourites. This is when you need that friend to support you and ask questions like “How often do you wear this? Is it still useful to you?” If you’re going it alone, and you’re not sure, just put it in the Other bin for now, along with those birthday gifts from last year.

3 - Clean 

Don’t let this one scare you! It’s an empty closet, so it will go quickly. Give the closet a good vacuum. Wipe down poles, shelves, drawers and the floor. Maybe even add a quick coat of paint. Just make sure that it’s dry before continuing to the next step!

4 - Organize 

Drawing from the Keep pile, start to put these items back into the closet in an organized way - pants in one section, blouses in another, etc. Keep colour in mind as you go so that you can organize items by colour as well. For example, keep all the blue blouses together.

If anything on the shelves was disorganized when you emptied the closet (sweaters, t-shirts, shoes), find containers to gather each of these items into and label them clearly. Even if it’s cardboard boxes with labels written in magic marker for now - you can always find a clear bin later and swap them out if you like.

Once everything that you know you want to keep is back in the closet, take another look in the Other bin. Where those items go may be more clear to you now. If not, put that box into the closet, except those birthday gifts - for heaven’s sake give those away. Or, hang these items up with the hangers facing backwards. If the hangers are still facing backwards in a year, or the Other box still has items in it, it’s time for those things to go!

5 - Remove

Now you’re ready to post the items you’re selling, or put the box in the car to take to a consignment store, along with the box of items that you’re donating.

Take the trash bag out to the curb, pull your shoulders back, and brush your hands together because you’ve done some great work! Doesn’t it feel good?! The final step is your sweet reward.

6 - Revitalize

While a sparkling clean and organized closet does feel good… nothing feels better than a new piece of clothing. It’s time to think about what’s next.

Take a look inside your beautiful closet, and see what you need. It should be so much easier to make a list of items that will revitalise your wardrobe now.

Bring that list with you on your next shopping trip! Of course, Sassyfras is stocked up with lots of great clothing, and ready to help you when Eising Garden Centre reopens on Thursday, March 2 for the 2023 season.

If you would like updates with everything that’s happening at Eising Garden Centre, this is the link to sign up for our fabulous newsletter.

We look forward to seeing you soon!

Sassyfras Hours

Beginning March 2, 2023

Monday - Saturday 10am-5pm

Eising Garden Centre

Spring Hours - Beginning March 2, 2023

Monday - Saturday 9am-5pm

Believe it or not, winter is the absolute best time to ponder, dream, and plan your garden and landscape design. Why? Spring is the optimal season to plant and transplant, and with a design in hand, we can hit the ground running once warmer temperatures arrive. Can you plant and transplant throughout the garden season? There are some exceptions, but for the most part the answer is yes. But why not get a head start, and take advantage of having plants established at the start of the growing season? Sure, we have designers sitting by the phone right now on these long, cold winter days but don’t just feel sorry for them - take advantage of the fact that it’s a great time to contact them! Contact details for Eising Garden Centre Landscape Design* are at the end of this post.

You may be asking why you should bother having someone else design your garden? One reason that I have learned the hard way is that it pays off in the long run. I’m probably not the only one who has planted flowers before putting in a patio or walkway, only to rip everything up because of construction, then re-plant all over again. 

Besides saving you money on costly mistakes, here are a couple more things to consider:

1. Curb appeal and property value

When most people think of those two concepts, they think about preparing a home for selling. I’m not referring to that. Every day, when you arrive home from work, or errands, wouldn’t it be great to love the way your home and garden looks when you pull into the driveway? That’s curb appeal and property value for your own benefit! However, if you are planning to sell, investing a bit of money in sprucing up the yard definitely impacts the selling price.

2. Design for living

Because we have a few precious months to enjoy our outdoor spaces, landscaping allows you to make better use of the space available. What do you use your space for? What do you need to incorporate into your plan to include those activities? Will you need to  install a patio, or create a garden, and where should you put them on the property? Maybe you need to create privacy with an evergreen hedge? Landscape design makes sense of all of it. 

Maybe you’re interested in an opportunity to make your garden more environmentally friendly. For example, adding native plants, a birdhouse and birdbath. Perhaps you want to add shade trees to shelter birds, and decrease the need for air conditioning your house in the summer.

3. Structure and a plan are sexier than you think

Lastly, I want to tell you a personal story about my experience hiring a landscape designer. I’m a plant lover and I never considered design. I studied plants, and spent several years joyously collecting all kinds of perennials, shrubs, water and bog plants, and trees. 

My garden was chaotic! But I loved the wild looking patchwork quilt of rare and unusual plants scattered within the confines of borders around my property. I nurtured each individual plant, and when I looked at my garden that’s what I saw, individual plants. Then I hired a landscaper to build a bigger pond for my growing collection of water and bog plants. 

When the time came to build the pond, he moved my plants to make way for all of the construction. Once that was complete, he placed my plant material back following his design. My plants, the same plants I had before the project, looked completely different. There was harmony in the arrangement. 

The overall effect was such an incredible improvement that I could not believe my eyes. It was a whole new garden, and proved the value of good garden design. Hint: it doesn’t involve buying a new, spectacular plant and plunking it into an empty spot, or digging another bed in some random location that gets sunlight. That was my AHA! moment.

Someone who understands plants AND design can take the things on your wish list and make them all come together in a way that just works.

*Eising Garden Centre Landscape Design

Contact Roman Bodnar to set up an appointment: by email here or call 519-428-4607.

Consultation Fee: $175 consultation fee per space (2023 pricing) - for example, the front yard would be considered one space. 

What your consultation includes:

1) A knowledgeable staff member will meet with you at the site of the project for up to 1 hour.

2) Any questions and concerns that the customer has will be reviewed and helpful suggestions will be made to ensure a successful project.

3) A simple 3D visual landscape design will be made, to enable the customer to see the potential of their space.

4) A detailed list will be provided to exhibit the needs, amounts and prices of the materials.

5) A 10% discount will be made available on all plant material in the design within 90 days of the consultation purchase.

Our specialty is soft-scaping: plants, soil and mulch. If the design we create warrants it, we will also utilize some armour stone and other natural stone features. We can’t wait to show you the potential of your property! Don’t delay your planning any longer…contact Eising Garden Centre today.

We tend to get a lot of questions about rose care, and while roses do require more maintenance than other common shrubs, they’re by no means difficult to look after. A little bit of regular upkeep leads to some pretty impressive results, so if you’re a gardening novice, it’s definitely a worthwhile project. Here’s how you can grow and care for roses in Simcoe, Ontario. 

Planting Roses In Southern Ontario

Depending on the variety you choose, you can use roses for border plants, garden bed accents, climbing plants to train over arbours and patio lattice, or as container plants. Whatever location or growing medium you select, just ensure it’s suited to the size and growth habit of your chosen rose variety, since there are so many different kinds to choose from. That being said, almost all roses will need at least 6 hours of direct sun every day, so make sure your chosen location has plenty of light. 

The best soil for roses has excellent drainage and high nutrients, to set your rose bushes off to a good start, you’ll want to loosen up the soil thoroughly. Ideally, you’ll want sandier, loamy soil with a lot of compost mixed in.

If you’ve purchased a rose bush with bare roots, you’ll want to soak the root ball in water for up to 24 hours before planting. If it’s a potted rose, you won’t have to worry about that step. Plant your roses about 1.5–2 feet deep to fit their large root system, then fill the hole back up with the soil, compost and bone meal mix. Mound it up slightly around the base of the plant. 

How Often Should I Water Roses?

Generally, roses need about 1-3 inches of water per week. The thing is, roses are pretty susceptible to mildew and other fungal diseases if they get soggy and don’t receive much air circulation. That means you’ll want to avoid getting the leaves wet whenever possible and stick to watering the soil directly. The easiest way to do this is with a trickle hose set up near the base of the plant. Just turn it on and leave it for a while, so it thoroughly saturates the ground. 

If we experience a lot of rain in a short period, you can skip on watering, and should check your roses regularly for any signs of bacteria or fungal growth. Remove any damaged pieces with sanitized shears, wiping the blades clean between every cut, and disposing of the damaged parts safely in the garbage, not the compost bin.

Rose Care: Mulch, Fertilizer, And More

Applying a layer of mulch on top of the soil around your roses will help to retain moisture and control weeds. Some gardeners insist that cocoa bean shells are the best mulch for roses, but we’ve found that classic bark mulch still works perfectly fine.

 

In spring, feed your roses with a fertilizer formulated specifically for roses. For best performance and blooms, apply the fertilizer every 2-3 weeks during the growing season. There are also special fertilizers made for transplanting, easing the transition when planting your rose. Be sure to water your rose before and after applying fertilizer as their roots are susceptible to being burnt.

Since there are so many types of roses, this means there are different times of the seasons and different styles of pruning. Use a pruning saw or hand pruners to remove any damaged branches or awkward pieces that jut out too far. If there are some densely packed areas with branches, it may help to thin them out a bit to help prevent fungal growth. 

We have so many spectacular colours and varieties of roses to grow in Southern Ontario. Visit Eising to see our full collection, or check out our online store! We have citywide delivery and curbside pickup available all summer long. 

Soil doesn’t always get the credit it deserves. It may not be the prettiest part of your garden, but soil has the most important job. Without it, it wouldn’t be possible to grow beautiful beds of flowers and vegetables.

Soil is like our planet’s skin, serving to protect the plant life that grows beneath. It’s vitally important that your soil has everything it needs to nurture life. As a gardener, here’s what you should know about what makes up your soil and how you can improve its quality.

What is Soil?

Soil is more than the dirt your shoes track into your home. Soil is full of living matter. It provides a home and habitat for plants, insects, and small rodents, and it processes and filters recycled nutrients to feed life on earth.

Soil is made up of five major elements:

• water
• minerals
• gas
• organic material
• and living organisms.

Each one of these elements serves an important role in keeping your plants strong and healthy. Without a proper balance, your plants will suffer.

One of the most important qualities of garden soil is proper drainage. Good soil should retain enough water to help plant roots absorb soil nutrients, but not so much that you run the risk of drowning or rotting your plants’ root systems. Soil drainage, combined with its composition of major elements, dictates the soil type. There are six main soil types, which are:

Loamy

This is the term we use to describe the ideal soil type. Loamy soil has a high nutrient density and drains well without drying out too quickly.

Clay

Clay retains moisture well, but it can weight itself down, pack in too tightly, and suffocate many plant species’ root systems.

Chalky

This is soil with poor water retention. It often contains a lot of stones, and tends to need more than its fair share of fertilizer.

Peaty

Peaty soil drains well but has a higher acid content, so organic matter breaks down slowly.

Sandy

Large mineral particles means moisture (and nutrients) pass right through. Not a great quality for garden soil.

Silty

Silt is more nutrient-dense than sandy soil and with similar water retention to clay soils.

As you dig deeper into the ground, soil is made of up different layers containing different ratios of these soil types, from your topsoil, to subsoil, to bedrock.

Just because your soil is a little too chalky or sandy doesn’t mean it can’t be improved. When you’re gardening, you can always correct soil quality with a soil amendment. Soil amendments can fix nutrient, density, and acidity issues, counteracting them to improve soil quality over time.

Types of Soil Amendment

Your soil is likely not naturally loamy. If it is, you’re lucky. If not, there are plenty of soil amendments you can use to balance it out. Here are the most common garden soil amendments:

• Organic Matter - From fertilizer, to manure, to kitchen compost, organic matter makes your soil richer in nutrients to feed your plants. Add organic matter to clay, chalky, and sandy soils.
• Gypsum - Gypsum is a soft calcium sulfate mineral. When added to soil, it improves structure and slowly releases nutrients. Add this to bring balance to clay soils.
• Lime - Unlike the small green fruit, this mineral lowers acidity in your peatier soils.
• Clay and Shredded Bark  - These amendments help your soil retain water. Add them to sandy and chalky soils to prevent water and nutrients from passing right through.

Using the Best Soil in Your Garden

If you aren’t sure what type of soil you have in your yard, you can test it with a soil testing kit to find out for sure. Then it’s just a matter of adding the right soil amendment to it. Otherwise, you can purchase soil with the right balance of nutrients, drainage, and moisture retention. The more you reuse soil in your planters and pots, the more it depletes its nutrient stores, so be sure to add more organic matter to your soil every season.

Great soil is the backbone of every garden. While it may not get as much love as your prized perennials or crisp vegetables, without great soil those showy blooms and juicy tomatoes just wouldn’t be possible. Think of your soil as the ingredients for your favourite recipes—using the best quality available always pays off with phenomenal results!