The Beauty of Dinner Plate Hibiscus

By Ava Green

The big, bold, showy, dinner-plate-sized flowers on hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos, also known as Swamp Rose-Mallow) are unforgettable, to say the least.  What a surprise it is to discover that this perennial plant not only survives our Zone 6, Southern Ontario climate, but thrives here! And despite its dramatic, exotic look, this plant is genuinely easy to grow. 

What Hardy Hibiscus Loves

Hardy hibiscus thrives in full sun with moist, well-drained soil and produces huge, gorgeous flowers without spreading and becoming invasive. As a rule of thumb: more sun means more blooms.

Give it ample space as it can grow 4-7 feet tall depending on the variety. Plant it 2-3 feet apart in a border, rain garden, meadow, or beside a fence, stream or pond, and it will thrive there for many years. Because it prefers consistently moist soil, avoid planting it near a brick wall or a driveway as these areas tend to dry out quickly.

When transplanting, add compost into the hole, and keep the base of the stem level with the surrounding soil. Don't mound soil or mulch up around the stems. If you’re planting your hibiscus in the fall, aim to do it at least 6 weeks before the ground freezes so the roots have time to settle in. 

If you'd like a bushier, more compact shrub, you can cut these plants back by half in June.

One thing to keep in mind: hardy hibiscus is very slow to start in spring. Don’t be alarmed if it doesn’t show new growth until the soil warms to around 21º Celsius.

What We Love About Hardy Hibiscus

If everything mentioned above isn’t enough to entice you, there’s more! 

Their enormous, ruffled flowers can reach a full foot in diameter, growing on sturdy, woody stems that stay upright on their own; no staking required. While they resemble their tropical hibiscus relatives, or Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), hardy hibiscus produces noticeably larger blooms. They flower mid to late summer in dreamy shades of white, pink, and red.

Seeing Is Believing

Stop by Eising Garden Centre and see the stunning beauty of hardy hibiscus in person. You just might fall in love too!

Staff Picks to Brighten Your Garden

By Ava Green

If I asked you to name a yellow perennial flower, you might immediately think of Black-eyed Susans. They’re definitely a perennial favourite!

The goal of this article is to introduce you to other yellow plants that we love and think you will too!  These perennials come back reliably every year, and look sunny and gorgeous.

Some of these plants also come in other colours, but today we’re sharing yellow varieties.

Coreopsis

Also known as Tickseed, these versatile, native North American plants come in a wide range of yellow shades, from pale and subdued to bright and showy. They also come in various heights to suit a wide range of garden locations.

Best for: Well-drained, average soil. Coreopsis will become floppy or die in moist, fertile, or cool locations. They are tolerant of poor soil and drought | Sun: Full sun | Mature size: 1-2 ft. tall and wide; however, Tall Coreopsis can reach 5-9 ft. tall and 3-6 ft. wide

False Sunflower, Heliopsis helianthoides

False Sunflower checks a lot of wish-list boxes: radiant, long-blooming, heat-tolerant, loved by bees and butterflies, and an exceptionally hardy native perennial here in Zone 6 Southern Ontario. To keep these tall plants shorter, stronger and bushier, cut back new growth by half in May and divide them every three years so they don’t become too dense.

Best for: Moist, well-drained areas with lots of space to grow | Sun: Full sun, tolerates part shade | Mature size: 3-6 ft  tall × 2-3 ft wide

Torch Flower, Kniphofia

Also known as Torch Lilies or Red Hot Poker, this unusual, striking plant is a stop-and-take-notice focal point in any border, providing weeks of continuous colour throughout summer. It’s also a magnet for plenty of pollinators.

Best for: Areas with very good drainage, as wet soil can cause root rot | Sun: Full sun | Mature size: 3-3.5 ft. tall × 2-2.5 ft. wide

Hosta

Hostas provide season-long colour, with their sturdy foliage doing most of the work. While many varieties have green or blue-green leaves, some offer very pretty yellow foliage instead. Give them 2-4 hours of morning sun each day and an inch of water each week, and that bright yellow colour will stay vivid all season. Flowers are often the main selling point for perennials, but hosta foliage proves that structure, not just blooms, can be just as valuable in a garden.

Best for: Areas with morning sun, which helps to intensify their colour | Sun: Part sun, preferably morning | Mature size: 6 in. to 3 ft. tall × 10 in. to 6 ft. wide depending on the variety (miniature cultivars stay toward the smaller end of that range)

Ligularia

Ligularia are unforgettable, with their large “tractor seat” leaves and tall spikes of candelabra-like flowers. They're a little more finicky about location, though; they need plenty of moisture and abundant morning sun, but must be protected from hot afternoon sun to truly thrive. Give them the right conditions, and this dramatic, bold plant will command all of the attention in your garden.

Best for: A woodland garden, rain garden, the edge of a pond or stream, in a swamp or bog where there is consistent moisture | Sun: Full sun where there is lots of moisture, otherwise Light or Partial shade with morning sun only | Mature size: 1-6 ft. tall × 1.5-4 ft. wide

More Yellow Perennials Worth Considering

Stop by Eising Garden Centre and chat with Mary or Donna; they’re always happy to help you find your favourite yellow perennials. Here are a more to check out:

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Yellow Brick Road’), Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum ‘Banana Cream), Hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus ‘French Vanilla’), Daylily (Hemerocallis ‘Hyperion’, ‘Happy Returns’, ‘Yellowstone’, ‘Going Bananas’ and ‘Stella D’oro’), Lenten Rose (Helleborus ‘Spanish Flare’, Coneflower (Echinacea ‘Yellow My Darling’), False Indigo (Baptisia ‘Lemon Meringue’ and ‘American Goldfinch’), Yarrow (Achillea ‘Firefly Sunshine’, ‘Moonshine’, ‘Coronation Gold’, and ‘Firefly Sunshine’), Cup Plant (Silphium perfoliatum), Hollyhock (Alcea), Helenium (‘Hay Day’, Dakota Gold’ and ‘Sombrero’, Itoh Peony (‘Yellow Emperor’, ‘Bartzella’, and ‘Garden Treasure’), Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Foxglove (Digitalis), Columbine (Yellow Queen), Eastern Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia cespitosa or Opuntia humifusa - native cactus), and Japanese Forest Grass (‘All Gold’).

That’s a lot of yellow, and as the saying goes: where yellow blooms, happiness follows!

For Height, Drama, and Eye-Catching Interest

By Ava Green

Every well-designed garden needs an anchor, something tall and confident at the back that gives the whole planting a sense of structure and depth. While shrubs and trees often fill that role, perennials can also do the job beautifully. The back row perennials below are sturdy, reliable performers that thrive right here in Norfolk County. Plant them at the back of a border or the centre of an island bed as the backdrop that makes everything around them look better.

False Indigo, Baptisia australis

Baptisia is one of those perennials that gardeners discover and immediately wonder why they waited so long to plant it. In late spring, masses of stems are loaded with sweet pea-shaped flowers in shades of indigo blue, soft yellow, white or purple, and butterflies and bees absolutely love them. Once the blooms fade, the plant takes on a handsome, shrub-like form with blue-green foliage that holds its shape nicely for the rest of the season. While it’s slow to establish, it is extraordinarily long-lived, making it a plant you put in once and enjoy for decades.

Grows 3 ft tall and 3 ft wide | Full sun to partial shade | Blooms late spring to early summer

Hollyhocks, Alcea

Few perennials carry the nostalgic, romantic charm of a Hollyhock in full bloom. Their tall, stately spires are covered in large, papery flowers and are available in an irresistible range of colours from soft pastels to rich burgundies and deep purples, to classic white. They have a way of making a garden feel established in their first season, making them a desirable back-row choice.  

Grows 2-8 ft tall and 1-2 ft wide | Prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade | Blooms in summer 

Joe Pye Weed, Eutrochium or Eupatorium

A native plant that is as ecologically valuable as it is beautiful. Its large, showy clusters of rosy-purple flowers are a magnet for butterflies and pollinators from mid-summer well into fall, long after many other perennials have finished their show. If you want a back-row plant that works hard for wildlife while adding bold colour to the garden, this is an excellent choice. 

Grows 4-6 ft tall and 2-4 ft wide | Prefers part sun and moist soil | Blooms mid-summer to late fall

Russian Sage, Perovskia atriplicifolia or Salvia yangii 

When the garden fills up with yellow and orange blooms in late summer, Russian Sage arrives with a billowy, airy cloud of lavender-blue flower spikes rising above silvery-grey foliage. It catches the light beautifully and adds a softness that few other plants can match. Drought-tolerant once established and virtually pest-free, it is one of the lowest-maintenance perennials you can grow. Compact varieties are also available if space is limited. 

Grows 3-4 ft tall and 3-4 ft wide | Full sun | Blooms mid-summer to fall

Bear’s Breeches, Acanthus Mollis

If you’re looking for a plant that makes a genuine architectural statement, Bear’s Breeches is in a category of its own. Its large, deeply lobed, glossy foliage forms an impressive mound, while dramatic flower spikes shoot three to five feet upward, bearing creamy white snapdragon-like blooms accented with striking reddish-purple bracts. It is bold, sculptural, and unlike almost anything else in the garden. 

Grows 3-5 ft tall and 2-3 ft wide | Full sun to part shade | Blooms June to July

Foxglove, Digitalis 

There is something undeniably enchanting and regal about Foxglove with its tall spires of tubular flowers freckled and spotted on the inside, nodding gently in the breeze. The colour range is also wonderful, from soft creamy whites and pale pinks to rich purples and deep rose. Many varieties self-seed freely, naturalizing happily in the garden over time. One important note: every part of the Foxglove plant is toxic to people and pets, so it is best planted away from areas where children or animals play. In the right spot, however, it is one of the most beautiful back-of-the-border plants available. 

Grows 2-5 ft tall and 2 ft wide | Sun to part shade | Blooms in summer

Goat’s Beard, Aruncus diocus

Despite its stature, this is one of the most graceful and softening plants you can add to a shady border. Large, feathery plumes of creamy white flowers rise above finely divided, elegant foliage, bringing lightness to even the darkest corners of the garden. It is especially effective at softening hard edges, filling bare spots under trees, and providing a lush, natural backdrop for smaller shade-loving plants. Dwarf varieties are available for smaller spaces.

Grows 6 inches (dwarf) to 6 ft  tall and 2-4 ft wide | Partial to full shade | Blooms early to mid-summer

Gardener’s Tip: 

Removing spent blooms before they go to seed, also known as deadheading, encourages many perennials to produce a second flush of flowers later in the season. It takes only a few minutes and can extend your bloom display by weeks. 

Ready to Build Your Back Row?

The team at Eising Garden Centre is here to help you choose the right tall perennials for your space, your soil, and your sun conditions. Stop by and let us help you create a border that looks stunning from front to back, season after season.

5 Easy Steps To Get Started

By Ava Green

There’s a common myth that you need a lot of space to grow vegetables, but whether you have a few containers, a small sunny corner, or a larger garden bed, there’s lots you can grow! Here in Norfolk County, which is Zone 6 in Southern Ontario, some vegetables can go in the ground as early as the beginning of May, while many others are usually safe to plant around the May 24th weekend, once the risk of frost has passed. Here are five simple steps to get you growing your own food this season if you’re new to vegetable gardening.

Step 1: Decide What You’d Love To Grow

Start with a list of the vegetables you actually want to eat. Coming into Eising Garden Centre with a list in hand makes choosing plants so much easier! When building your list, consider:

• Vegetables you love
• High-value vegetables, the ones that are expensive at the grocery store but easy and economical to grow yourself
• Anything that tastes better when it’s freshly picked, like tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh herbs

Step 2: Make a Simple Plan

You don’t need an elaborate design; a rough sketch on a scrap of paper is just fine. The goal is simply to get a sense of your space and where things will go before you start digging. We recommend starting a garden notebook or journal to track what you plant each year and how it performs. It will be especially helpful next spring!! A few planning tips to keep in mind:

• Most heat-loving vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant and beans, need at least six hours of sun per day
• Cool-weather and shade-tolerant crops like lettuce, chard, kale, radishes, and beets do well with just three to four hours of sun 

• Spacing in a vegetable garden can be much tighter than in other types of gardens. Less empty space means fewer weeds and bigger harvests. Square foot gardening is an excellent method to explore
• Layer your garden beds with plants that are great companions. For example, basil and marigolds planted beside tomatoes are said to improve flavour and repel pests. Carrot and beet seeds tucked in beside and between your lettuce plants (which are a cool-weather crop) are a smart pairing; as your lettuce finishes in the summer heat, your carrots and beets will be sprouting up to take their place. This is referred to as succession planting and optimizes the space in your garden
• Make use of vertical space with poles or trellises for peas, pole beans and cucumbers
• Tuck herbs into any gaps between your vegetables; they’re useful, beautiful, and most pollinators love them

Step 3: Prepare Your Space

Once you’ve chosen a spot with enough light, it’s time to get the soil ready:

• Remove any sod or weeds before planting. If you’d rather not dig, the No Dig gardening method uses a layer of cardboard as the base for the new bed. This suppresses weeds naturally and breaks down into the soil over time
• Add a good-quality compost to your soil by either spreading a layer across the top of the garden bed or scooping some into each plant hole 
• For container gardening, almost any container works, just make sure it’s deep and wide enough for the mature size of your plants. Also, drainage holes are a must! Fill containers with a soilless mix containing compost, peat moss or a peat alternative, and one of the following: sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Avoid using garden soil, triple mix, or topsoil in containers, as they compact easily and will restrict root growth. Learn more about soil mixes, amendments, and fertilizers here

Step 4: Water and Feed Consistently

Consistent watering and feeding are the foundation of a productive vegetable garden:

• Vegetables need regular, reliable watering. Inconsistent moisture leads to stressed plants and poor yields
• Always water the soil, not the leaves. Plant roots take in water, and wet foliage can invite disease. Water deeply so moisture reaches the roots. Use your fingers to check how far down the water has penetrated into the soil
• Containers dry out faster than garden beds and will need more frequent attention
• Morning is the best time to water. If your plants are struggling on a particularly hot afternoon, a second watering is fine. Just be sure to aim at the base of the plant and avoid the foliage, which can scorch in direct sun
• Feed with organic fertilizers throughout the season to keep your plants healthy and productive. Follow the package instructions for the product you choose

Step 5: Plant Flowers for Your Pollinators

A vegetable garden without pollinators is a garden that won’t reach its full potential. Attracting bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects to your garden is one of the best things you can do for your harvest. Some of our favourite pollinator-friendly flowers for the vegetable garden include marigold, calendula, nasturtium, borage, sunflowers and culinary lavender. As a bonus, most of these are edible, so they earn their space twice over.

It’s Time

Starting a vegetable garden is one of the most rewarding things you can do with an outdoor space. There’s a quiet satisfaction in growing something from seed or a seedling and bringing it to your own table. 

Start simple, grow what you love and don’t be afraid to learn as you go. 

The team at Eising Garden Centre is always happy to help you choose the right plants for your space and answer any questions along the way. This could be the season that changes the way you think about your garden!

Resources:

Why Use a Garden Journal?: https://eising.ca/why-use-a-garden-journal/

Square Foot Gardening: https://www.almanac.com/planning-square-foot-garden-grow-more-less-space

Fertilizers & Soil Amendments: https://eising.ca/fertilizers-soil-amendments/

Companion Planting: https://eising.ca/companion-planting-with-herbs/ and https://eising.ca/incorporating-vegetables-into-your-garden/

Optimizing the Gardening Season: https://eising.ca/optimizing-the-gardening-season/

No Dig Gardening Method: https://charlesdowding.co.uk/blogs/no-dig-resources/beginners-guide

Reading Plant Tags: https://eising.ca/full-sun-part-shade-what-do-plant-tags-actually-mean/

Growing Vegetables in Pots: https://eising.ca/planters-are-for-more-than-flowers/

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer with tips from Mary K, Zach C, Sandy M, and Jeanine LT!

Now is the time to prep our outdoor landscapes for the coming cold weather and the ensuing spring! Perhaps your autumn is calmer than your spring, and this is the best time to clean up and begin new projects. The following are some simple but effective tips to get your yard winter-ready - so your spring will be a little more pleasant for you!

Planting

When warm weather still allows it, plant trees, shrubs, perennials, and bulbs to allow them to establish for budding and blooming next spring.

Pond Care

Mary, our perennials gal, suggests not removing any water from your pond but instead aerating it all winter. She skims out the leaves to maintain the balance of the nitrogen cycle in the water and suggests waiting to do a big pond clean out in the spring, as that’s when the water’s culture can bounce back easier.

Fertilizing

After top growth of your landscape plants ceases, reduce your annual fertilizer application by up to half of the requirement. Autumn is a major root growth period for woody and herbaceous perennials; roots will grow and absorb nutrients whenever soil temperatures remain above 5 °C but can be over fertilized quickly in these cooling temperatures.

Produce gardens could benefit at this time from a top layer of compost that will break down during the winter so it isn't too 'hot' for spring planting.

Leaf Litter

Here’s our pitch on the ‘leave it – don’t leave it’ debate: It DEPENDS.

   Ideally, we should leave litter leaf on the ground for our pollinator friends and endangered species like fireflies to hide out in the winter. But, there are appropriate situations in which to remove leaf litter.

• When they’re covering your bulbs and tender perennials, remove SOME. Leaf litter acts as a ground insulant, which can amplify our temperamental zone 6b temperatures. This freezing and thawing can often confuse and kill early spring bulbs and tender perennials.

• Zach, our trees and shrubs guy, suggests that if a tree shedding leaves has been diagnosed with pests and fungi, remove the leaf matter to reduce the spread to other plants. Diseased matter should always be removed in a quarantined fashion and taken to a landfill or burned.

☝️Please note: Unless diseased, compost your leaves, they contain vital nutrients specific to the plants they came from!

Lawncare

With autumn mowing practices you have the opportunity for the addition of much needed organic matter for your lawn, which is also an excellent source of slow release nutrients. Keep mower blades sharp since leaves can be tougher than grass. Raise the mower height up and mow leaves when they are lightly wet (e.g., morning dew). This will keep the leaves from blowing all over and will prevent the mower from getting bogged down in wet leaves.

See more on general lawncare in Dave's Lawncare 101 post.

Clean Up

Now is a good time to wash your tools with soap and water to prevent diseases spreading from plant to plant.

  ☝️Mary's tip is to spray garden tools with PAM before use, so the dirt slides right off them!

Pruning Perennials

Mary, our perennials gal, suggests leaving things until frost to cut back. This way they're easier to compost. Make sure to leave seedheads (i.e., coneflowers and black-eyed Susans) for wildlife, and things like hydrangeas for winter interest.

☝️Make sure if things are cut back, to leave them sticking up enough you can still find them in the spring!

Dividing and Moving Perennials

Moving or dividing perennials in the autumn is a great way to reduce your work next spring. The cool, moist weather is an ideal time for perennial roots to become well established.

👍The rule of green thumb for moving perennials: If the plant blooms between early spring and late June, then early fall division/moving is ideal. If the plant blooms after late June, then early spring division is ideal (except for Peonies which should only moved or divided in the fall, Poppies in August, Irises in July & Lilies in the Fall).

Overwintering Trees

Zach and Sandy from trees and shrubs suggest a couple of things to help your favourite trees along this winter:

• To reduce winter injury in evergreens: Keep properly watered throughout the growing season and into the fall is another way to reduce winter injury. Decrease watering slightly in September to encourage hardening off, then water thoroughly in October until freeze-up.

• Cedars - Spray cedars with antidesiccant spray (available at Eising GC) or wrap in burlap (with stakes to create dead air space) so wind doesn't dry out and burn tips.

• Fruit trees - In late fall, spray fruit trees with sulfur-horticultural oil (available at Eising GC) for protection against fungi and pests overwintering in the bark.

• Ornamental trees - wrap the base of young trees to protect from chewing rodents. 

• Pruning trees - trees that prefer winter pruning rather than spring pruning are maples, oaks, birches, and elms, as well as with fruiting trees such as apples and pears. This ensures blight and pests will not affect the tree's open wounds.

If you missed the frosty deadline for transplanting trees, Sandy suggests insulating unplanted potted trees to help them best survive the coming winter. Here are some methods:

• Double-pot your tree with an insulative barrier (i.e., burlap, straw, mulch, etc.) stuffed between the two pots and securely cover the top with tarp to deflect moisture.

• Bury your potted tree in the ground, level with the top of the pot (don’t forget to dig it back up!) and mulch the area.

• Huddle all of your unplanted trees and plants together when using the above methods.

Mulching

Mulching is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can do for your garden. Just by simply placing a protective layer of material over the bare soil will benefit the soil as it decomposes providing the much-needed organic matter which improves root growth, the infiltration of water and the nutrient-holding capacity of the soil while reducing soil erosion.

   A good layer of mulch allows the soil to warm more slowly in the spring, so perennials aren't fooled into breaking dormancy too early, as you want the ground to stay cold until it really is spring!

☝️Make sure your mulch application won't stunt the growth of your plants come spring as discussed in our Transplant Troubleshooting blog post!

Japanese Beetle Prevention

Nematodes are microscopic worms that should be applied to lawns that have been ravaged by grubs especially of the Japanese Beetle. Nematodes have a short shelf life and must be refrigerated until they are applied. Normally, they are sprayed onto the lawn from mid-May to mid-June and then again (for best practice) from mid-August to mid-September.

Pots

To prevent freezing and cracking, Mary suggests emptying and turning your pots upside down. You can disinfect at this time too. 

Design Time!

Jeanine, from production, suggests writing down what worked best in your produce garden this year so you can implement it again in the spring.

With the trees and land being barren enough you can see its contour, now is a great time to plan ahead for spring landscaping! Don't forget Eising GC would love to offer help with your landscape designing!

We hope these tips help your landscape plants enjoy your winter abode as much as you do this season, for more information - and plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🍁

By: Ava Green

One of the best things about living in southern Ontario is the beautiful show our deciduous trees and shrubs put on each fall. 

Autumn is also the perfect time to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials. The sun is less intense, temperatures are slightly cooler, and with regular, deep watering, the plants are less prone to transplant shock, ensuring a successful planting. 

As the leaves begin to change, they mark the arrival of autumn, a season full of colour and celebration. If fall is a special time of year for you, our staff have handpicked their favourite deciduous trees and shrubs with the most stunning seasonal displays. Here are their top recommendations.

Autumn Blaze Maple

Botanical Name: Acer x freemanii 'Jeffersred'

This tree is a cross between the fast-growing Silver Maple and the showy Red Maple - two very popular trees! 

Autumn Blaze will provide a display of colour throughout autumn by starting earlier and lasting longer than most other trees. It’s large, with 5-inch leaves that begin by turning red at the top, then eventually shades of red and orange cascade down the length of the tree. 

Even in the winter, this is a beautiful specimen because its shape is so symmetrical.

Seven-Son Flower

Botanical Name: Heptacodium miconioides

Considered a small tree or large shrub, Seven-Son Flower is popular for its year-round beauty! 

Growing to a maximum of 6.1 metres (20 feet) tall and 3 metres (9.8 feet) wide, the leaves of this plant change from spring to summer, making it an interesting specimen plant in the garden. 

The biggest attraction is the fragrant white blooms it produces late in summer, which are highly attractive to hummingbirds and other pollinators. As the blooms fall, they leave behind pink sepals, so it looks like it’s in bloom all over again!

Its unusual bark makes this tree beautiful year-round, but especially in the winter.

Washington Hawthorn

Botanical Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum

Leaves that turn vibrant shades of orange, purple or scarlet red in the fall are just part of the beauty of this small tree.

This is another specimen with year-round interest. In early spring, reddish-purple leaves emerge, which eventually turn dark green, followed by graceful white flowers. After its fall show, it produces bright red berries that last for most of the winter.

Maturing at 8 to 9 metres (25-30 feet) tall, Washington Hawthorn is also an important nectar plant for pollinators and provides food for birds in the winter.

Barberries

Botanical Name: Berberis thunbergii

Depending on the type of Barberry these deciduous shrubs can grow ½ to 3 metres (1-10 feet) tall and have varied shapes and features as well. For example:

• Barberry, Concorde (Berberis thunbergii 'Concorde')forms a nice globe when it's mature. Leaves start out red and gradually turn a deep, dark purple as they mature.
• Barberry, Ruby Carousel (Berberis thunbergii 'Bailone') is a compact variety with vibrant, ruby-red foliage.
• Barberry, Rose Glow (Berberis thunbergii 'Rose Glow') which matures to 1 to 1 ½ metres (3-5 feet) tall, starts out with a combination of green, white, and deep rose-red foliage in the spring. In the fall, it produces bright red berries that persist into winter.

Beautyberry, Pearl Glam

Botanical Name: Callicarpa 'NCCX2'

While many Beautyberry are showy in the fall, Pearl Glam is an upright, small shrub that has all-season interest. Its dark purple foliage emerges in the spring that lasts until frost. 

In late summer it’s adorned with white flowers which attract butterflies and bees. After blooming it produces hundreds of beautiful violet-purple berries which last long after the leaves have fallen.

Crepe Myrtle, Cherry Mocha

Botanical Name: Lagerstroemia 'Cherry Mocha'

Another small ornamental deciduous shrub with an upright growing habit, Cherry Mocha Crepe Myrtle has decorative appeal in every season.

Burgundy coloured stems with semi-glossy burgundy leaves makes this plant stand out. To add to that, new growth at the tips starts out glossy, deep red. If that’s not enough, in late summer and early fall, the blooms on this cultivar are large, cherry-red flowers which stand out from the burgundy foliage. Its flowers late in the season provide important food for bees. After flowering, green seed pods provide extra interest.

Note: Have you ever wondered why leaves on trees and shrubs change each fall? Here’s a simple explanation. During the long, sunny days of summer, trees and shrubs produce plenty of chlorophyll - the food needed to keep the leaves green. In autumn, as the days grow shorter and temperatures are cooler, there is less chlorophyll produced and the plant breaks down residual chemicals on the surface of the leaves which produces shades of red, orange and yellow.

You’ll find more information in our handy Eisings online Plant Finder!

Coneflowers (Echinacea) have earned their place in perennial borders, pollinator gardens, and meadow-style landscapes—and for good reason. These hardy, vibrant perennials reliably return each spring in our Ontario Zone 6 climate, adding long-lasting colour and texture to any garden.

The classic Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) begins with soft, pink-tinged petals that deepen into rich purple hues as the season progresses. At its peak, the familiar domed centre cone emerges—an eye-catching structure that dries beautifully and provides winter interest in the garden. 

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Choose From The Rainbow

While the purple coneflower is the most iconic, hybrids now come in nearly every colour of the rainbow. You'll find stunning varieties in pink, white, green, orange, and fiery reds.

No matter your garden’s colour scheme, there’s likely a coneflower to match. Even better, their bold blooms attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, while the seed heads feed songbirds in fall and winter.

Low Maintenance, Long-Blooming Beauty

Coneflowers are both showy and easy to care for—ideal for beginners and seasoned gardeners alike. Here’s what you need to know:

Growth habit:

• Height: 24–60 inches, depending on the variety

• Spread: 12–24 inches

• Bloom time: Mid-summer to fall

Growing conditions:

• Sun: Full sun is best, though light shade is tolerated

• Soil: Well-drained soil is key

• Water: Drought-tolerant once established, but thrives with consistent watering

• Fertilizer: Not necessary

Pro tips for success:

• Pinch back in early summer to encourage bushier, sturdier plants and decrease the chance of powdery mildew forming

• Deadhead spent blooms early in the season to prolong flowering

• Leave seed heads in late summer and fall for winter beauty and bird food

• Optional self-seeding: Let them go to seed for a naturalized look, or remove blooms to prevent self-seeding

Coneflower Companions

Coneflowers mix beautifully with a variety of other perennials. For vibrant, complementary plantings, try pairing them with:

• Salvia

• Crocosmia

• Hyssop (Agastache)

• Catmint (Nepeta)

• Phlox

• Ornamental grasses

These companions share similar growing requirements and will enhance the colour and texture of your garden throughout the growing season.

Visit Us for More Ideas

Want help choosing the perfect Coneflower variety or finding the right garden companions? Stop by Eising Garden Centre and chat with our perennial expert, Mary. She’ll help you create stunning combinations that bloom beautifully from summer into fall.

If you think a small space and a small garden are limiting when it comes to shrub choices, think again! Colour and texture, structure and seasonal interest are all available in many small shrubs. Whether you’re looking for beautiful blooms or evergreen foliage, you’ll love what our favourite small shrubs have to offer!

Follow the 5 links for more on our 5 favourites!

My Monet Purple Effect Weigela - Weigela florida

A deciduous shrub that’s deer resistant, colourful and low growing. This plant checks lots of boxes!! Variegated mint green and cream foliage with purple tones and pink blossoms, it makes a great companion to perennials, and as an edging plant. My Monet Purple Effect Weigela grows 18” to 2 ½ feet tall and wide in partial or full sun.

Little Gem Spruce - Picea abies ‘Little Gem’

This compact evergreen has dark green needles, making it attractive all year round. Its pyramidal shape makes it a great choice as an accent feature or in a border. It’s drought-tolerant and requires little care, making it a very appealing low-maintenance choice! Little Gem reaches a mature height of 10” to 1’ and a spread of 1’ to 2’. Plant this shrub in full sun.

Blue Star Juniper - Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’

Sun-loving and slow-growing, Blue Star Juniper graces the garden with steel blue evergreen foliage that’s a beautiful contrast to many plants. It’s also drought-tolerant and requires very little pruning, making it an easy to care for naturally small shrub. Growing 1 to 3’ tall and 1 ½ to 3’ wide, its shape makes it great as ground cover or as an edging plant.

Bluebeard - Caryopteris

Classified as a shrub or as a woody perennial, either way, it deserves to be on this list. Bluebeard loves full sun and grows anywhere from 2 to 4’ in a compact mound. Sweetly scented and long blooming, it attracts all the pollinators: bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Bluebeard foliage and blooms come in various colours depending on the variety, so it’s easy to fit into your landscape plans.

Inkberry Holly - IIlex glabra

Native to North America, Inkberry has lots to love. It looks similar to Boxwood and can be trimmed to shape, but this slow-growing evergreen also forms a tidy mound, and it blooms in the Spring! It will grow in full to part sun, and smaller varieties reach 3 to 4’ high.

While this list contains 5 of our favourites, we have lots more to offer in the garden centre. Come by and take a look! Discover how growing small shrubs in containers or small spaces adds beauty and texture, enhancing your garden bed, patio or balcony.

TIP: April and May are the best months to plant shrubs in Southern Ontario.

If you’re looking for blooms that come back each Spring with a burst of colour, here are ten of our favourite flowering perennials and ground covers.

Plant These for a Spring Show!

Bleeding Heart (Dicentra)  

Height: 30-120 cm, Spread: 45-90 cm

Flower Colour: white, pink, red, purple

Blooms: spring, summer

Growing: While Bleeding Hearts will tolerate full sun or full shade, they prefer the protection of light shade. This perennial is fairly drought tolerant, but it will thrive in evenly moist soil, and blooms will last much longer if the soil is moist.

Hellebore Christmas Rose (Helleborus)  

Height: 30-45 cm, Spread: 30-45 cm

Flower Colour: white, green, pink, purple, yellow

Blooms: late winter to mid-spring

Growing: Moist, humus-rich, well-drained soil in lightly dappled shade is where hellebores do best.

Primrose (Primula)

Height: 15-60 cm, Spread: 15-45 cm

Flower Colour: blue, red, orange, white, pink, purple, yellow

Blooms: spring, early summer

Growing: Full sun or partial shade and moist, well-drained, humus-rich soil.

Anemone Windflower (Anemone) 

Height: 8-150 cm, Spread: 15-60 cm

Flower Colour: white, yellow, pink, blue

Blooms: spring, summer or fall

Growing: Anemone does best in moist soil and partial or light shade, but they will tolerate full sun. While Anemone can take a while to become established, they’re worth the wait!

Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) 

Height: 45-90 cm, Spread: 30-60 cm

Flower Colour: white, red, yellow, pink, blue, purple (The colour of the spurs is often different than the petals)

Blooms: spring, summer

Growing: Columbines love full sun or part shade and moist, well-drained soil. This plant will self-seed and seedlings can be transplanted.

Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) 

Height: 30-60 cm, Spread: forms groupings

Flower Colour: blue, pink, purple

Blooms: spring

Growing: Plant in partial to full shade with humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil. This woodland plant has blooms that are attractive to Hummingbirds and pollinators. Foliage dies back right after it blooms.

Moss Phlox or Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)

Height: 10-15 cm, Spread: 60 cm

Flower Colour: white, red, lavender, pink, bluish purple 

Blooms: early spring

Growing: Plant in sun to partial shade with humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil. Spreads horizontally as it grows and creates new roots where the stems touch the ground. Do not prune in the fall as Spring’s flowers will already be forming on these plants.

Lungwort (Pulmonaria)

Height: 20-60 cm, Spread: 20-90 cm

Flower Colour: white, red, pink, blue

Blooms: spring

Growing: To avoid root rot, grow Lungwort in moist, humus-rich soil that’s well drained. They prefer partial shade to full shade.

Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla)  

Height: 10-30 cm, Spread: 20-30 cm

Flower Colour: white, red, purple, blue

Blooms: early to mid-spring

Growing: Very well drained soil is important for Pasque Flower, which does not like to sit in wet soil. It will grow well in full sun or partial shade.  

Peony (Paeonia)

Height: 60-80 cm, Spread: 60-80 cm

Flower Colour: yellow, pink, red, purple, and shades of white

Blooms: spring, early summer

Growing: Humus-rich, moist and well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade is where peonies do best. Adding lots of compost and planting at the proper depth is very important for peonies to bloom. Be sure to plant potted peonies at the same level as the soil around them, not higher.

At some point, garden life calls to many of us. Even if you’ve never nurtured a plant before, planting something and keeping it alive offers a fun, low-cost, and highly rewarding experience. Whether you opt for a few potted plants on a patio or balcony, join a community garden, dedicate part of your yard to flowers, herbs, trees, or vegetables, install raised beds, or set aside a corner of your property to attract pollinators, it’s exciting to consider the possibilities!

The Benefits of Gardening

Stress Release

Nature has a calming effect, and gardening helps you stay grounded in the present moment, freeing your mind from worries about the past or future. For example, the repetitive task of weeding allows your brain to focus, turning the activity into a form of mindful meditation. Meditation doesn’t always involve sitting in solitude on a mountain—it can be as simple as engaging in repetitive tasks like planting or weeding. This process reduces stress and anxiety, ultimately leading to greater happiness.

Boosting Happiness

Speaking of happiness, research shows that certain bacteria in the soil get under fingernails and also get inhaled while you garden. This bacteria can boost your healthy gut flora and release happiness chemicals like serotonin. A healthy gut flora supports a strong immune system, making that dirt-under-the-nails gardener’s manicure well worth it.

Strength & Flexibility

At the start of each gardening season, you might hear from fellow gardeners about their sore muscles—backs, hands, shoulders, hips, and so on. The physical demands of gardening can be challenging at first, but over time, they help build muscle strength and improve flexibility.

If you find working in the garden too strenuous, try kneeling on a soft pad or using a small stool to sit on. Consider using a shovel or rake to assist you in moving up and down to your knees or the stool. Opt for smaller pots and smaller bags of soil and mulch - they’re easier to carry.

Growing Food & Healthy Eating

Anyone who’s tasted fresh, homegrown vegetables knows just how delicious they can be. Growing your own produce also encourages you to eat more fruits and vegetables, which naturally leads to better health. The fibre in these foods supports the healthy gut flora mentioned earlier, too!

The Perks of Being Outdoors

All the benefits of gardening—stress relief, happiness, strength, flexibility, and healthy eating contribute to your overall physical and mental well-being. But there’s more.

While outdoors, you absorb vitamin D from the sun, which boosts calcium levels in your body, promoting strong bones and a robust immune system.

Being outside and working in the garden also improves your sleep. After a day of gardening, you’re likely to feel pleasantly tired, helping you fall asleep faster and enjoy a deeper rest. Good quality sleep is essential for overall health, just as important as diet and exercise.

Finally, spending time outdoors encourages deeper breathing, which increases oxygen levels in your blood and boosts serotonin. Deep breathing also aids digestion and helps clear stagnant air from your lungs. Try stepping outside and taking a nice, deep breath. It just feels good, doesn’t it?

While your initial goals for gardening may include harvesting delicious vegetables or creating beautiful bouquets, you’ll also be improving your health in ways you might not have expected!