By Ava Green

As soon as warm weather and sunshine arrive in Southern Ontario, it’s time to head to the garden centre and pick up all the plants we’ve been dreaming about all winter long! May 24th is generally the date we look forward to — the unofficial marker when frosty mornings are behind us and the promise of summer is ahead. 

By now, cool-weather plants like cabbage, Brussels sprouts, peas, and lettuce should be well established in the vegetable garden. And for everything else, it’s go time!

TIP: Before you start planting, this is the ideal time to amend your soil. Top up your garden beds with fresh topsoil or enrich them with compost to improve soil health, add nutrients, and promote vigorous plant growth. Don’t forget to refresh the soil in your containers as well, with potting mix or compost.

Warm Weather Vegetables

When soil temperatures are consistently 60°F (15°C) or higher, it’s safe to plant all the warm-weather vegetable crops we’ve been waiting for! Plants that thrive in warmer weather include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini and corn.

At Eising Garden Centre, you’ll find vegetables in 6-packs, 4” pots, trellised patio containers, patio bowls and hanging baskets - while supplies last, of course!

Herbs also love warm weather, and tender varieties like basil are safe to plant once all danger of frost has passed. Whether you plant herbs directly into the ground or create a potted herb garden near the kitchen door, they’ll add fresh flavour to your meals all season long. A container of herbs also makes a wonderful gift when visiting friends and family for a summer BBQ.

While you’re in the vegetable and herb aisle, keep an eye out for everbearing strawberries in planters and containers of tropical fruits like lemons, limes, and oranges.

Annual Flowers

Winter-weary flower beds can be revived almost instantly with a burst of colourful annuals! If you’re looking for an immediate impact and blooms that last all summer long, annual flowers are the answer.

Whether you plant them in beds, containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets — or choose from one of our gorgeous pre-planted options — just add water and fertilizer, and you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant display that keeps on giving.

Perennials

While perennials may not bloom all summer, many offer extended bloom periods, and by combining different varieties, you can create a succession of flowers that lasts for months. Perennials also provide essential greenery to anchor your garden and enhance the look of your flowering plants.

You can plant perennials from spring through fall, but getting them into the ground now gives them a strong start. From hostas and ornamental grasses to daisies and delphiniums, there’s a perennial for every style of garden — and the best part is, they’ll return each spring like dependable old friends.

Trees, Shrubs and Vines

Often called “the bones” of the garden, trees, shrubs, and climbing vines add essential structure, height, and seasonal interest. Planting them now allows you to design your garden layers thoughtfully, incorporating annuals and perennials around their base.

Spring is also the prime time to purchase and plant fruit trees and fruiting shrubs. At Eising, spring offers the best selection for starting your home orchard. Are you thinking of adding a few edible shrubs? Gooseberries, haskaps, hardy kiwi, rhubarb and raspberries are excellent choices.

Mulch

Okay, it’s not a plant, but this is a reminder to add mulch to your garden beds or containers. After planting, adding a layer of mulch to your garden beds or containers helps retain soil moisture, reduces transplant shock, and suppresses weeds. Even if a few weeds manage to sneak through, mulch makes them easier to pull.

Water Garden Plants

If you have a garden pond, spring is the perfect time to add water plants. Floating plants, such as water hyacinths and water lilies, help shade the pond’s surface, reducing algae blooms. Marginal or bog plants, such as water iris, papyrus, and cattails, also help keep the water healthy and clear by improving oxygen levels and providing habitats for beneficial wildlife.

Time to Grow!

May is one of the most anticipated and exciting months in the garden. Whether you’re dreaming of fresh vegetables, a lush landscape, or a colourful flower display, planting now sets the stage for a beautiful, bountiful season. Visit us at Eising Garden Centre to find everything you need — and let’s get growing!

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Many home gardeners are really missing their harvest of fresh vegetables these wintry days – and many beginners have New Year’s resolutions to become greener thumbs.

Seeds to Start

The seeds of many vegetables and beans are suitable for hydroponic sprouting into tasty young shoots that will be ready for the table in less than a week!

   Seeds such as alfalfa, broccoli, clover, lentil, mung bean, mustard, onion, radish and soybean are excellent choices for this activity plus they are invaluable in terms of their nutritional content.

Sprouting seeds on your kitchen counter takes only minutes a day, and the reward is a steady supply of fresh, crunchy shoots.

   It is important to start by purchasing some packaged seed expressly for sprouting. The directions will indicate how much is needed to produce 100 grams of sprouts. The seed-to-sprout ratio can differ substantially - anywhere from 1.5 to 8.5 units of sprouts or more per one unit of seed - so follow directions carefully and make sure your jar is large enough to accommodate all the sprouts while still leaving room for good air circulation. As a rule, begin with 1 tbsp. (15 mL) of seeds for small varieties such as alfalfa and radish, 2 to 3 tbsp. (30 to 45 mL) for medium ones such as lentil, and up to 4 tbsp. (60 mL) for large seeds such as beans and peas.

Seeds to Sprouts

Simply put seeds into jar and position screening over opening, using an elastic band to hold the covering in place. Fill jar one-third full of warm (about 40°C) water and swirl seeds around for a minute or so. With the covering in place, drain water. Refill jar one-third full of cool water and let seeds soak for four to eight hours.

   Next, begin daily regimen of rinsing seeds three times a day at roughly eight-hour intervals. Drain and refill jar with cool water, swirl seeds for about 30 seconds and drain again. Then, invert the jar so screening is at the bottom and rest it at a 45-degree angle in the bowl. Place on the kitchen counter out of direct light (place bean shoots in complete darkness, as they often taste sweeter when they're grown this way). Repeat this process for three to five days.

Simple Sustenance

You can start to harvest your sprouts once they're three to five centimetres long. Rinse and drain them thoroughly and place them in an airtight container and refrigerate immediately; they should remain fresh for up to five days.

   Clover, alfalfa, radish, and mustard seeds give rise to the delicious sandwich booster sprouts. Sprouts are one of the most concentrated natural sources of vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and amino acids.

Plants inside the home help bring life to a long winter, if you’re looking for more information – or plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌱

For tomato lovers, picking a warm, flavourful tomato right off the plant for a sandwich, burger, or salad is a sure sign of summer!  I eagerly await the day the first fruit begins to turn red, knowing that I am a day or two away from the first of many toasted tomato sandwiches for the season!

By the end of June, your tomato plants should be in the ground or pot, staked, and well on their way to producing fruit. But how do you keep your plants healthy all summer so that you can maximize your investment? Here are a few tips to help keep your tomato sandwiches coming until frost!

Water

Water early in the morning and water deeply. For tomatoes, consistent moisture is best.

Keep the water on the ground, not on the foliage. This is important because damp foliage can lead to diseases like early blight, which can ultimately cause the entire plant to die. Mulching around the base of plants will reduce the amount of water that can splash up onto the leaves. A soaker hose or drip line is also a great way to ensure that water stays on the ground, rather than on the plant.

Pruning

Reducing the amount of foliage on a tomato plant is necessary for a couple of reasons: good air flow, which reduces the chance of powdery mildew forming, and less foliage means that the plant can send energy to growing fruit instead of lots of leaves.

Follow these easy steps when you prune your tomato plants:

• Before you begin, remember to follow the rule for pruning - no more than ⅓ of a plant should be removed at a time. 

• Use clean scissors or pruning shears to cut the leaves off the bottom of the plant. Remove any leaves that are touching the ground. These are particularly susceptible to mildew formation.

When fruit starts forming, remove the leaves from the bottom of the plant up to the first or lowest fruit.

Remove suckers ongoingly. What are suckers? When you look at your tomato plant, you will see the main stem that comes up from the ground, and branches of leaves that come out of the main stem. As the plant grows, suckers begin to form in the “Y” between the main stem and a branch of leaves. Suckers won’t harm a plant; they just make it very unruly and reduce airflow.

If your tomatoes are indeterminate (growing into a tall vine), remove the top of the plant when frost is forecasted at the end of the season. Topping the plant allows energy to ripen the fruit that’s already set, rather than being used to continue growing the vine.

NOTE: Some gardeners like to leave suckers on determinate tomato plants as this can increase the yield.

TIP: Tomatoes ripen from the inside out. That means that by the time you see fruit beginning to flush on the outside, the inside is already ripe. If you have competition for tomatoes from pesky critters, or when there’s a chance of frost in the weather forecast, you can pick fruit that has just begun to turn colour and leave it on the kitchen counter to continue to ripen. 

Fertilizer

Using organic material is one of the best ways to feed your crop. A good layer of compost, 1-2 inches, in the spring when you’re planting and again in the fall each year is one of the best ways to improve your soil structure in the garden, and it also adds lots of nutrition. 

If you missed this step when planting your garden, you can always add a layer of compost around your plants or use other organic fertilizers, such as compost tea, seaweed, worm castings, or fish emulsion.

Alternatively, you can use a fertilizer that’s formulated especially for tomatoes - these usually have a ratio like 3-4-6 or 4-7-10. Follow label directions for amounts and err on the side of caution. Using less fertilizer is always better than using too much, as an excess can stress the plant and make it more prone to disease.

Following these simple steps for tomato care will help to ensure your plants stay healthy and producing fruit, but if you should have problems, here are some great resources to identify tomato issues:

• Ontario.ca: Bacterial diseases of tomato: bacterial spot, bacterial speck and bacterial canker
• Guelph.ca: Healthy Landscapes – Plant List Native and Drought-Tolerant Plants

Making your own compost is a great way to save money and reduce your carbon footprint—plus, it saves you a trip to the store! With summer coming up, our vegetable plants and fast-growing annuals will be hungry for soil nutrients, and having the perfect organic fertilizer on hand makes it that much easier to have a healthy, thriving garden. Plus, it can cut your total household waste in half, so it’s twice as good for the environment! Less trash in our landfills means less methane gas gets released, which Mother Nature will surely appreciate. 

Want to start making your own compost at home using kitchen scraps that would otherwise end in the garbage? Once you get the hang of it, it’s really pretty simple, and the end product will be so worth it. Here are the basics of making compost, so your garden will be well-fed this year.

What Goes In A Compost Bin?

One of the things that people find the most confusing when beginning to compost is figuring out what goes in the bin, and what stays out. There are all sorts of different kitchen scraps that we can generate in a day, but some of them can contaminate the compost bin and introduce harmful bacteria instead of the good kind. Having a little cheat sheet posted on the fridge will make it easier for you to navigate the do’s and don’ts of composting, so we compiled this list for you to use as a reference. 

Things You Can Always Compost

- Fruit and vegetable scraps
- Eggshells
- Dye-free cardboard
- Coffee grounds
- Grass clippings
- Leaves and stems (unless they show signs of disease)
- Straw
- Pine needles
- Untreated paper
- Cotton and wool
- Sawdust and untreated woodchips

Things You Can Compost In Smaller Amounts

- Citrus fruit peels
- Herbivore manure (ex: rabbits, birds, horses)
- Printed cardboard
- Teabags
- Black and white newspaper
- Hair and pet fur

Things That Shouldn’t Go In the Compost

- Dairy
- Meat
- Bones
- Metal
- Chemically-treated wood
- Diseased plants
- Plastic
- Weeds
- Oils and fats
- Diapers
- Carnivore animal droppings (no dog or cat waste!)

If there’s anything you want to toss in the bin but aren’t entirely sure about, go online and do a quick Google search as to whether or not the item is compostable.

The Different Types Of Compost Bins

There are three different types of compost bins you can use at home: aerobic, anaerobic, and vermicomposting bins. Each one breaks down waste a little differently, and there are a few pros and cons, so we’ve listed out the basics of each type so that you can choose accordingly.

Aerobic Compost Bins: These bins have a crank that helps to turn the inner contents, helping to aerate the waste so it breaks down faster. While they’re a little more expensive, they’re neater and more compact than other composters, so you can place them pretty much anywhere in the yard.   

Anaerobic Compost Bins: A cheaper, more basic alternative to the aerobic bin, the anaerobic bin is pretty much just a lidded bin with no turn crank. You simply toss your scraps in and let it break down over time. It’s a slower, and somewhat stinkier process, but they’re pretty cost-effective, and you can even find online tutorials on how to build your own using materials you may already have at home. It’s a good idea to add an even ratio of dry leaves (save that fall leaf litter!) and household waste to keep odours to a minimum. Use a stick or shovel to mix up the decomposing matter every month or so, to speed up decomposition and prevent methane from building up in the container.

Vermicomposting Bins: Now, this one might seem a little weird if you’re squeamish around bugs, but hear us out: vermicomposting is a super effective way to turn trash into treasure. Vermicomposting bins are full of tiny worms that quickly break down the scraps and release them into a lower compartment in the bin, so you can retrieve your compost without having to touch the worms. The resulting compost is super nutrient-rich and easy to spread through the soil.

 

Composting is great for your garden, great for the environment, and great for your wallet too. Remember, if you need any supplies to help you get started, feel free to check out our brand new online store, and we can arrange curbside pickup for your order!