By Ava Green

As soon as warm weather and sunshine arrive in Southern Ontario, it’s time to head to the garden centre and pick up all the plants we’ve been dreaming about all winter long! May 24th is generally the date we look forward to — the unofficial marker when frosty mornings are behind us and the promise of summer is ahead. 

By now, cool-weather plants like cabbage, Brussels sprouts, peas, and lettuce should be well established in the vegetable garden. And for everything else, it’s go time!

TIP: Before you start planting, this is the ideal time to amend your soil. Top up your garden beds with fresh topsoil or enrich them with compost to improve soil health, add nutrients, and promote vigorous plant growth. Don’t forget to refresh the soil in your containers as well, with potting mix or compost.

Warm Weather Vegetables

When soil temperatures are consistently 60°F (15°C) or higher, it’s safe to plant all the warm-weather vegetable crops we’ve been waiting for! Plants that thrive in warmer weather include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini and corn.

At Eising Garden Centre, you’ll find vegetables in 6-packs, 4” pots, trellised patio containers, patio bowls and hanging baskets - while supplies last, of course!

Herbs also love warm weather, and tender varieties like basil are safe to plant once all danger of frost has passed. Whether you plant herbs directly into the ground or create a potted herb garden near the kitchen door, they’ll add fresh flavour to your meals all season long. A container of herbs also makes a wonderful gift when visiting friends and family for a summer BBQ.

While you’re in the vegetable and herb aisle, keep an eye out for everbearing strawberries in planters and containers of tropical fruits like lemons, limes, and oranges.

Annual Flowers

Winter-weary flower beds can be revived almost instantly with a burst of colourful annuals! If you’re looking for an immediate impact and blooms that last all summer long, annual flowers are the answer.

Whether you plant them in beds, containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets — or choose from one of our gorgeous pre-planted options — just add water and fertilizer, and you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant display that keeps on giving.

Perennials

While perennials may not bloom all summer, many offer extended bloom periods, and by combining different varieties, you can create a succession of flowers that lasts for months. Perennials also provide essential greenery to anchor your garden and enhance the look of your flowering plants.

You can plant perennials from spring through fall, but getting them into the ground now gives them a strong start. From hostas and ornamental grasses to daisies and delphiniums, there’s a perennial for every style of garden — and the best part is, they’ll return each spring like dependable old friends.

Trees, Shrubs and Vines

Often called “the bones” of the garden, trees, shrubs, and climbing vines add essential structure, height, and seasonal interest. Planting them now allows you to design your garden layers thoughtfully, incorporating annuals and perennials around their base.

Spring is also the prime time to purchase and plant fruit trees and fruiting shrubs. At Eising, spring offers the best selection for starting your home orchard. Are you thinking of adding a few edible shrubs? Gooseberries, haskaps, hardy kiwi, rhubarb and raspberries are excellent choices.

Mulch

Okay, it’s not a plant, but this is a reminder to add mulch to your garden beds or containers. After planting, adding a layer of mulch to your garden beds or containers helps retain soil moisture, reduces transplant shock, and suppresses weeds. Even if a few weeds manage to sneak through, mulch makes them easier to pull.

Water Garden Plants

If you have a garden pond, spring is the perfect time to add water plants. Floating plants, such as water hyacinths and water lilies, help shade the pond’s surface, reducing algae blooms. Marginal or bog plants, such as water iris, papyrus, and cattails, also help keep the water healthy and clear by improving oxygen levels and providing habitats for beneficial wildlife.

Time to Grow!

May is one of the most anticipated and exciting months in the garden. Whether you’re dreaming of fresh vegetables, a lush landscape, or a colourful flower display, planting now sets the stage for a beautiful, bountiful season. Visit us at Eising Garden Centre to find everything you need — and let’s get growing!

How To Keep Your Orchid Alive

By Ava Green

Orchids have become very popular gifts, and a great hobby for indoor plant enthusiasts who discover the wide range of colours and shapes available. Orchids are also loved for their long-lasting and exotic blooms.

While some may choose to only enjoy these tropical plants as long as they’re blooming, orchid-lovers look forward to nurturing the plant and encouraging it to flower regularly. It may be a little daunting at first, but once orchids grace you with their stunningly beautiful blossoms, you will find that a little bit of care is very worthwhile!

It’s estimated that there are 25,000 different species of orchids and over 100,000 hybrids! The ones you’ll find most readily in Ontario stores are Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, because it’s fairly easy to grow. Phalaenopsis are the best choice for beginners.

Other orchids you may find easily are Cattleyas (Corsage Orchids), Cymbidiums (Boat Orchids) and Dendrobium orchids.

While all of these may be orchids, they don’t necessarily require the same care, so it’s a good idea to check the tag for the type you have and its specific care requirements. The following is a general guide to light, water, fertilizer, and growing medium for the most commonly found orchids, but it does not apply to all breeds.

Light and Air

For most orchids, light, and lots of it, is the general rule. Place your plants within 3 feet of a window (not to the side) in the sun. South, east, and west-facing windows are all fine for maximizing the light your plant receives.

Orchids also enjoy a breeze or circulating air in your house. They do not like temperature extremes, though 15 to 20 degrees Celsius is safe. Keep in mind that the more warmth and air movement there is, the more often you will need to water your orchid.

Water

A general rule is to use water that is not hard and has not been softened with salt. Salt will kill an orchid. Rainwater, reverse osmosis, or distilled water are good choices. Chlorinated water is not an issue for orchids - high sodium levels are.

The biggest issue many people have is either over-watering or underwatering their orchids. Here is the method we recommend:

Every 5-7 days, place the pot in a container or the sink, then fill it with enough water to cover the top of the pot. Be careful not to let water collect in the crook at the base of the leaves, as standing water will rot the leaves and the plant. Once the plant’s growing medium is thoroughly soaked, remove it from the water and allow the pot to fully drain in the sink before placing it back in its saucer. 

We prefer using a container of water rather than the sink, so the remaining water can be used to water other plants.

Here’s the best watering advice we can give you: look at the overall health of both the plant AND its root system. Full, plump leaves and vibrant, green roots indicate that your plant is getting enough moisture. Puckered leaves and a silver sheen on the roots indicate insufficient water. Mushy, brown leaves and roots are signs of rot caused by too much water.

You may hear of another watering method that involves using ice cubes, but it’s controversial and not widely recommended. To quote the American Orchid Society, “Ice is for cocktails, not orchids. Never use ice on tropical plants to water them.”

“Soil” and Nutrients

Most orchids naturally grow high up in trees, where their roots cling to bark and absorb moisture from the air. At home, we try to mimic those conditions, which is why orchids are typically planted in chunky mediums like bark, coconut husk, charcoal, or perlite rather than traditional soil. While many of the roots stay inside the pot, it’s completely normal for some to grow up and over the edge.

These “escapee” roots might look a little wild, but don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with your orchid. In fact, those aerial roots are a sign that the plant is healthy and doing exactly what orchids do in nature.

It’s worth noting that not all orchids grow the same way. Many, like Dendrobiums, are epiphytic (growing on trees) or lithophytic (growing on rocks), though some orchid varieties are terrestrial and grow in the ground. The good news is that the growing medium your orchid comes in is chosen specifically for that variety, so you can trust it’s in the right environment.

The bark that your orchid is planted in will slowly break down and become mushy. It’s a very good idea to repot your plant every two years.

It’s generally recommended to feed most orchids, and bloom time dictates which fertilizer to use and how often to feed. Begin by using a water-soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer, mixing it at ¼ the amount recommended for other houseplants. Apply this solution every 2 weeks in the summer and every 3 weeks in the winter.

“The orchid, with its many forms, is a reminder that life is full of surprises.” — Leonardo da Vinci.

Lastly, here’s an orchid fun fact: While we have been talking about tropical orchids in this article, there are also orchids that grow right here in Ontario! That’s right, there are over 50 species in this province, including the much-loved Pink Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule).  

Resources for more detailed and specific information: 

Toronto Master Gardeners - https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/growing-orchids-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/

Canadian Orchid Congress - https://canadianorchidcongress.ca/basics/growing-orchids/

American Orchid Society - https://www.aos.org/orchid-care/indoor-orchid-care

Ontario Wildflowers - https://ontariowildflowers.com/main/group.php?id=18

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

The classic fall-blooming Chrysanthemum varieties of burnt amber, golden yellow, and deep burgundy blooms have been enormously popular for years, and as each new fall season rolls around, there always seems to be new varietal introductions – like multicoloured pinks with the hues of sunrises - to enhance your front porch display of pumpkins, corn stalks, and gourds.

   These robust plants will produce blooms for weeks, even in the coolest of autumn weather. Their hardiness even offers versatility when it comes to their display; some gardeners prefer less labour-intensive groundskeeping and leave them in their original store pots, whereas others prefer to transplant these flowers into larger planters, window boxes, or into flowerbeds to add an easy seasonal flair.

While resilient, these plants still need some TLC. Try these tips to keep your Mums looking fresh throughout the fall.

• Choose green plants with tightly closed buds. This way when your Mums do bloom, you will be able to keep those colourful displays for much longer.
• The Mums' foliage should have a deep green colour and lots of growth at the garden centre.
• Also, make sure the soil in the container is moist when purchasing your plant, as dried out Mums may have already suffered damage.
• You'll find out in short order that your potted Mums are very thirsty plants! Water them daily and make sure the soil remains moist. A shot of liquid fertilizer to the irrigation water once a week would be great as well.

Over-Wintering Mums

Modern Mum breeding is aimed primarily at creating plants that look good in their pots at their point of purchase, sacrificing the plant’s hardiness and performance for future years - meaning when home gardeners try to overwinter these big potted plants, they are not usually successful.

   All Mum plants at garden centres are hardy, meaning that they are perennials in most climates. However, if these plants are put in the ground from August on, most won't make it through winter. The reason is that Mums planted late in the season are near, or at, the flowering stage, when their energy is focused into blooming, and they won't grow roots to sustain plants through the winter. This is why Mums should be planted in the spring if you want a perennial plant that has a spectacular autumn show!

   If you really adore your fall purchase though, you can try to over-winter your Chrysanthemums in the basement or a dark, cold closet, after the first frost. Water well and place in an area where it is totally dark and 0°C to 10°C. The plants will hibernate for the winter if you keep their roots damp. Check the pots weekly.

   In the spring, gradually acclimate your Mum plants to light and plant them out in the garden after the last killing frost, remembering to pinch them twice prior to the first of August for a full, lush plant.

   We hope this helps you to enjoy your Mums just a little bit longer! Use our Plant Finder to search for a sample of our Mum selection by your preferred colour. You can find many Mum varieties and more information at Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre, please stop in for a visit this autumn!

Dealing with water restrictions or choosing to conserve water? You’re not alone. Many gardeners in Norfolk County are facing the challenge of keeping gardens thriving with less water. The good news? A lush, colourful garden is still within reach—thanks to drought-tolerant perennials.

When we think of drought-tolerant plants, cacti might be the first thing that comes to mind. But there’s a surprising variety of beautiful, hardy perennials that can handle our region’s dry spells—no desert landscape required.

While these plants do need regular watering when first planted, once established, they’re low-maintenance and well-suited to Southern Ontario’s climate, including periods of limited rainfall.

Full Sun Ground Cover

• Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens)
• Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii)
• Hardy ice plant (Delosperma nubigenum)
• Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)
• Moss phlox, creeping phlox (Phlox subulata)
• Pincushion flower (Scabiosa japonica var. alpina) (S. ‘Butterfly Blue’)
• Pinks (Dianthus alpinus)
• Rock cress, wall cress (Arabis species)
• Rock rose, sun rose (Helianthemum hybrids)
• Spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites) (E. polychroma)
• Stonecrop (Sedum acre) - dwarf varieties
• Thrift, sea pink (Armeria maritima)
• Thyme (Thymus species)

Full Sun, Medium to Tall Plants

• Beard-tongue (Penstemon digitalis) – Native
• Bergenia (Bergenia crassifolia)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – Native
• Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora)
• Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) – Native
• False indigo, wild indigo (Baptisia australis)
• Hairy penstemon (Penstemon hirsutus) – Native
• Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) – Native
• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
• Orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’)
• Perennial cornflower (Centaurea montana)
• Poppy (Papaver species)
• Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
• Prickly pear cactus (Opuntia compressa) – Native
• Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
• Salvia (Salvia nemerosa hybrids)
• Sea Holly (Eryngium species)
• Silver sage, wormwood (Artemisia ludoviciana)
• Threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) – Native
• Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)  

Full Sun Grasses

• Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) – Native
• Blue fescue (Festuca glauca)
• Blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)
• Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)
• Little blue stem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Native
• Switch grass (Panicum virgatum) – Native

Groundcover for Shade

• Barrenwort (Epimedium hybrids)
• Bigroot geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum)
• Canada anemone (Anemone canadensis) – Native
• Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera)
• Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum)
• Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) – Native
• Woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata) – Native

Medium to Tall Plants for Shade

• False Solomon’s seal (Maianthemum racemosum) – Native
• Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum) – Native

Ferns for Dry Shade

• Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) – Native
• Hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula) – Native
• Marginal wood fern (Dryopteris marginalis) – Native
• Male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) – Native
• Rock fern (Polypodium virginianum) – Native

A Little TLC

It doesn’t take much to keep drought-tolerant plants thriving—just a little attention and some seasonal TLC. While they’re tough, even these hardy perennials appreciate an occasional deep watering during extended dry spells, especially in their first year.

For sun-loving perennials, skip the heavy fertilizers. Instead, an annual layer of compost is all they need to stay healthy and strong.

Shade-loving drought-tolerant plants, on the other hand, benefit from a layer of mulch. This helps retain moisture and reduces evaporation, especially in dry shade, which is one of the most challenging conditions for any plant to thrive in.

And don’t forget to deadhead regularly! Removing spent blooms encourages your plants to keep producing flowers instead of going to seed, meaning more colour, for longer.

With a few simple care tips, your drought-tolerant garden can remain beautiful and resilient throughout the entire season.

Other resources:

• Landscape Ontario: Eight Beautiful Drought Tolerant Plants
• Toronto Master Gardeners: Drought Tolerant Plants
• Guelph.ca: Drought Tolerant Native Plants

For tomato lovers, picking a warm, flavourful tomato right off the plant for a sandwich, burger, or salad is a sure sign of summer!  I eagerly await the day the first fruit begins to turn red, knowing that I am a day or two away from the first of many toasted tomato sandwiches for the season!

By the end of June, your tomato plants should be in the ground or pot, staked, and well on their way to producing fruit. But how do you keep your plants healthy all summer so that you can maximize your investment? Here are a few tips to help keep your tomato sandwiches coming until frost!

Water

Water early in the morning and water deeply. For tomatoes, consistent moisture is best.

Keep the water on the ground, not on the foliage. This is important because damp foliage can lead to diseases like early blight, which can ultimately cause the entire plant to die. Mulching around the base of plants will reduce the amount of water that can splash up onto the leaves. A soaker hose or drip line is also a great way to ensure that water stays on the ground, rather than on the plant.

Pruning

Reducing the amount of foliage on a tomato plant is necessary for a couple of reasons: good air flow, which reduces the chance of powdery mildew forming, and less foliage means that the plant can send energy to growing fruit instead of lots of leaves.

Follow these easy steps when you prune your tomato plants:

• Before you begin, remember to follow the rule for pruning - no more than ⅓ of a plant should be removed at a time. 

• Use clean scissors or pruning shears to cut the leaves off the bottom of the plant. Remove any leaves that are touching the ground. These are particularly susceptible to mildew formation.

When fruit starts forming, remove the leaves from the bottom of the plant up to the first or lowest fruit.

Remove suckers ongoingly. What are suckers? When you look at your tomato plant, you will see the main stem that comes up from the ground, and branches of leaves that come out of the main stem. As the plant grows, suckers begin to form in the “Y” between the main stem and a branch of leaves. Suckers won’t harm a plant; they just make it very unruly and reduce airflow.

If your tomatoes are indeterminate (growing into a tall vine), remove the top of the plant when frost is forecasted at the end of the season. Topping the plant allows energy to ripen the fruit that’s already set, rather than being used to continue growing the vine.

NOTE: Some gardeners like to leave suckers on determinate tomato plants as this can increase the yield.

TIP: Tomatoes ripen from the inside out. That means that by the time you see fruit beginning to flush on the outside, the inside is already ripe. If you have competition for tomatoes from pesky critters, or when there’s a chance of frost in the weather forecast, you can pick fruit that has just begun to turn colour and leave it on the kitchen counter to continue to ripen. 

Fertilizer

Using organic material is one of the best ways to feed your crop. A good layer of compost, 1-2 inches, in the spring when you’re planting and again in the fall each year is one of the best ways to improve your soil structure in the garden, and it also adds lots of nutrition. 

If you missed this step when planting your garden, you can always add a layer of compost around your plants or use other organic fertilizers, such as compost tea, seaweed, worm castings, or fish emulsion.

Alternatively, you can use a fertilizer that’s formulated especially for tomatoes - these usually have a ratio like 3-4-6 or 4-7-10. Follow label directions for amounts and err on the side of caution. Using less fertilizer is always better than using too much, as an excess can stress the plant and make it more prone to disease.

Following these simple steps for tomato care will help to ensure your plants stay healthy and producing fruit, but if you should have problems, here are some great resources to identify tomato issues:

• Ontario.ca: Bacterial diseases of tomato: bacterial spot, bacterial speck and bacterial canker
• Guelph.ca: Healthy Landscapes – Plant List Native and Drought-Tolerant Plants

Coneflowers (Echinacea) have earned their place in perennial borders, pollinator gardens, and meadow-style landscapes—and for good reason. These hardy, vibrant perennials reliably return each spring in our Ontario Zone 6 climate, adding long-lasting colour and texture to any garden.

The classic Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) begins with soft, pink-tinged petals that deepen into rich purple hues as the season progresses. At its peak, the familiar domed centre cone emerges—an eye-catching structure that dries beautifully and provides winter interest in the garden. 

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Choose From The Rainbow

While the purple coneflower is the most iconic, hybrids now come in nearly every colour of the rainbow. You'll find stunning varieties in pink, white, green, orange, and fiery reds.

No matter your garden’s colour scheme, there’s likely a coneflower to match. Even better, their bold blooms attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, while the seed heads feed songbirds in fall and winter.

Low Maintenance, Long-Blooming Beauty

Coneflowers are both showy and easy to care for—ideal for beginners and seasoned gardeners alike. Here’s what you need to know:

Growth habit:

• Height: 24–60 inches, depending on the variety

• Spread: 12–24 inches

• Bloom time: Mid-summer to fall

Growing conditions:

• Sun: Full sun is best, though light shade is tolerated

• Soil: Well-drained soil is key

• Water: Drought-tolerant once established, but thrives with consistent watering

• Fertilizer: Not necessary

Pro tips for success:

• Pinch back in early summer to encourage bushier, sturdier plants and decrease the chance of powdery mildew forming

• Deadhead spent blooms early in the season to prolong flowering

• Leave seed heads in late summer and fall for winter beauty and bird food

• Optional self-seeding: Let them go to seed for a naturalized look, or remove blooms to prevent self-seeding

Coneflower Companions

Coneflowers mix beautifully with a variety of other perennials. For vibrant, complementary plantings, try pairing them with:

• Salvia

• Crocosmia

• Hyssop (Agastache)

• Catmint (Nepeta)

• Phlox

• Ornamental grasses

These companions share similar growing requirements and will enhance the colour and texture of your garden throughout the growing season.

Visit Us for More Ideas

Want help choosing the perfect Coneflower variety or finding the right garden companions? Stop by Eising Garden Centre and chat with our perennial expert, Mary. She’ll help you create stunning combinations that bloom beautifully from summer into fall.

Growing Vegetables in Pots!

A few years ago, I was walking through town with a friend as we discussed planting vegetables in our tiny front gardens. It seemed like an unusual idea until we spotted not one but two front gardens with pumpkin vines rambling amongst the shrubbery. What a novel way to cover the ground without mulch and have the bonus of showy, bright blossoms and bold foliage! Of course, this is eventually followed by the standout feature of brightly coloured pumpkins. It’s built-in fall decorating!

Right now, everyone is looking for ways to reduce grocery bills, and growing a few vegetables amongst the flowers and shrubs can make a big difference. If your garden is on a patio or balcony, there are lots of ways to add edible plants to maximize your space and beautify it at the same time. Who says vegetables can’t be ornamental and beautiful?!

Gaps and Small Spaces

If you have a new shrub and flower garden that has gaps or there’s a space in your garden where you’re not sure what to plant, consider tucking in a potted vegetable. In a cool, shady space, try some luscious lettuce bowls. Shade allows lettuce to grow more slowly in the heat of the summer. Keeping lettuce in a cool, shady spot will prevent it from bolting and becoming bitter.

If you have a small garden, a patio or a balcony, pots with compact varieties and hanging baskets are a terrific alternative for growing vegetables, herbs, and some fruits. These are some of the options we offer at Eising Garden Centre (based on availability) that can be purchased fully planted, or you can grow your own from seed if you have time, space and lights.

Trellised Planters and Patio Pots

For patios, balconies, or even a gap in the garden, there are lots of vegetables that can be grown in a trellised planter.

Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and eggplant all love warm soil and growing in pots provides the heat to help them thrive. Eising trellis pots are planted with specific varieties that are smaller but pack a flavourful punch.

Patio Snacker cucumbers.

Sweet Snackabelle, Candycane Chocolate Cherry or Red, Mocha Swirl and Fresh Bites peppers.

Little Sicily, Patio Hybrid, Candyland Red, Rapunzel and Tidy Treats tomatoes.

Eising Greenhouse also carries eggplants in trellised pots - a patio pot with Patio Baby eggplants is a perfect choice if ratatouille is on the menu!

All of Eising's trellised planters would look lovely plopped into one of our decorative outdoor cover pots!

Herb Planters

Many herbs thrive in a sunny and warm spot with well-drained soil, making a pot the perfect container for them. Herbs also make great companion plants with other vegetables and can be tucked into other pots. Most herbs also love to be harvested frequently, especially when they’re given these ideal conditions.

Lettuce Bowls

Lettuce bowls are a great way to grow greens in small spaces. Our 10” bowls are chock full of a variety of lettuces and are never boring! 

👍Tip: Try the “cut and come again” method for harvesting lettuce, which prolongs the plant’s life. Simply pinch off the outer, mature leaves each time you pick the lettuce and leave the centre of the plant to keep growing.

Hanging Baskets

If there’s a spot to hang a basket or place a shepherd’s hook, you will want to grow one of the edible options we offer. 

Topsy Tom tomatoes.

Pot-a-Peno and Peppers From Heaven peppers.

Tomatoes, peppers, and strawberries are all available in hanging baskets. Our deliciously sweet everbearing strawberries are also available in 4.5" pots and bareroot, which are great options for window boxes.

👍Tip: Pick strawberries as they ripen to encourage your plants to produce more. Also, remove runners as they grow to allow your plants to send energy into growing fruit instead of bigger plants. Painting rocks to look like strawberries is said to deter birds from feasting on ripe berries.

Citrus and Figs

Consider growing a beautiful and fragrant lemon, orange, fig or grapefruit tree in a patio pot. Just keep in mind that it will need to come indoors in the fall. 

Container Plant Care

Whether you’re growing edible plants in the garden, a pot or a hanging basket, don’t forget to give them the care they need to maximize productivity:

• Water regularly, deeply and in the heat of the summer, frequently. Watering early in the morning is ideal. Pour water on the soil, not the foliage to prevent diseases like powdery mildew.
• Feed your vegetables and fruits throughout the growing season with fertilizer or compost.
• Remove dead foliage and prune plants as needed. Especially herbs.

Once you start foodscaping by including vegetables with your flowers and ornamental plants we’re sure you’ll want to keep looking for innovative ways to grow your own food! Who knows, maybe even pumpkins by the front porch!

Looking for something that blooms in the garden when everything else is fading? Bluebeard (aka Caryopteris or Blue Mist) blooms from late summer until frost sets in!

This shrub-like perennial thrives in full sun and sandy soil with good drainage. In exchange for these conditions, it provides an abundance of blooms in vivid, genuine blue (a colour that’s very difficult to find in the garden) or it can have pink or blueish-purple flowers depending on the hybrid variety. Foliage can range from soft grey to golden yellow to dark and glossy green, depending on the variety. Intrigued?

Bluebeard is a great perennial shrub for almost any size of garden and does well here in Norfolk County. Plants grow in a range from two to four feet in height and width and in a well-behaved, compact mound.

Beautiful Blooms

Such a unique flower! Bluebeards form fluffy clusters of flowers, like clouds or mist and can bloom from July until there’s a frost. Like most flowering plants, deadheading spent flowers will promote continued blooming.

Bluebeard flowers have a mildly sweet scent and are full of nectar for pollinator friends like bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. The features don’t stop there! Birds love the seeds that form in the Fall too.

Planting & Care

Find a nice, sunny spot with ample space for the plant to grow. Bluebeard aren’t heavy feeders and don’t need fertilizer. Some compost in the planting hole is all that’s needed. After that, top dress with some compost each Spring. 

Water in new plants thoroughly after planting them. Once established, they don’t need watering unless it’s an extremely dry season. 

Crown rot from consistently over-watering, or from being planted in wet, heavy soil is the only disease to be concerned about. Branches will begin to die, one by one, if this plant has crown rot.

While Bluebeard will tolerate drought and shade, the amount of flowers will be greatly reduced.

Pruning

Bluebeard’s foliage and flowers form on new branches or new growth. So, early each Spring, cut the stems down by at least half. Cutting them down to 12-18” does not harm the plant. It will send up new shoots, and it’s those new shoots that produce leaves and blooms!

You may find that established plants have some dead wood in the centre. If this happens, prune out any dead wood, and that will ensure that your shrub stays looking full and happy.

One final note. Sometimes Bluebeard is called “blue mist spirea”. However, Bluebeard or Caryopteris is not related to spirea.

Whether you’re just starting to explore the world of unusual plants, or you’re already an avid collector, there are a wide array of weird and wonderful houseplants to satisfy your quest for something a little different. 

Tropical plants and houseplants come in every shape, size, texture, and colour imaginable, plus some you would never have imagined! 

Exotic houseplants often have striking appearances which make them valuable as eye-catching focal points in your decor. The range of distinctive features can also make them a natural choice to express your personality and style. 

Like your more common houseplants, unusual varieties can also contribute to indoor air quality, as well as the overall benefits to your well-being that come with having living plants in the home.

The unique characteristics of rare or unusual houseplants often have interesting backgrounds. Learning about their natural habitats and origins only makes them more intriguing! 

Here are some wild and wonderful houseplants that will add interesting foliage, blooms, or both to your home right now!

Pitcher Plant

A rare and exotic group of tropical plants with pitcher-shaped leaves that are carnivorous. That’s right, they eat insects to obtain the nutrients they need! This means that with most varieties you do not have to fertilize them. Most are happy catching a bug or two for food. 

Keep this plant from drying out completely between waterings by temporarily placing it in a water-filled tray to absorb moisture through the roots. Remove the pot from the tray once it’s saturated, and allow the excess water to drain away. Pitcher plants prefer pure, mineral-free water like rainwater. No tap water for these precious prima donnas! 

One Pitcher Plant variety that we love is Miranda (aka Nepenthes x Miranda). From tropical Malaysia, it is a very large pitcher plant with attractive spotted pitchers that can be over 18” wide when fully mature. Because of its size, it is quite effective at catching larger insects like wasps. It’s easy to grow, either in a sunny window or outdoors (only in the summer) and is heat tolerant but not drought tolerant. 

ZZ Plants

Native to East Africa, Zamioculcas zamiifolia is also known as the houseplant ZZ, or Zanzibar Gem. While the name is complicated, this plant is not fussy at all, making it great for beginners! ZZ will thrive in almost any lighting conditions except direct sunlight, plus it is drought tolerant so you can allow it to dry out between waterings.

 

The biggest attraction to the Zanzibar Gem though is its thick, dark green and glossy leaves that almost look fake! If that sounds intriguing, hang on. There’s more!

Black Raven ZZ is a new variation with stunningly dramatic black-toned leaves. Unique to be sure, but luckily with the same low care requirements!

Cactus

There are so many weird and wonderful varieties of cacti that come in all shapes and sizes! These sun-loving plants require little care, but here are a couple of tips that will keep them looking sharp. (Ouch!). 

1. Give their pot a little turn each day so that your plant is eventually exposed to light on all sides. This saves you from having a lopsided cactus. 
2. Water is essential but monitor how often your cacti need it. In the winter, when they’re dormant, they will need less water. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Using room-temperature rainwater is ideal. Tap water contains minerals which can disrupt the flow of nutrients to the cactus. Water it well, then allow the excess moisture to drain away rather than pool under the plant. Cacti don’t necessarily need fertilizer, but they do welcome a feeding during their summer growing season. We can help you choose a fertilizer that’s been specially formulated for cactus to ensure the proper nutrient ratio.

A few varieties of cacti that we love are: 

• Monkey Tail (Hildewintera colademonosis)
• Boobie (Myrtillocactus Geometrizans Fukurokuryuzinboku)
• Spiral (Cereus forbesii Spiralis)  

With their evocative names and exotic shapes, cacti are so much fun to grow! And don’t be surprised if the kids want to have a few to call their own.  

Stop by Eising Greenhouses and see what we have in store. While you’re here, say hello to Courtney who is always happy to talk about unusual houseplants!

Fall is the time to plant garlic if you want to harvest them next summer. Why grow your own garlic? Like any vegetable, fresh garlic just tastes great. It’s also very satisfying to plant one little clove and get a whole head of garlic from it. Think of it as a garlic bank: put in a little effort in the Fall, and next summer you will profit from that small investment in spades! 

If you’ve never planted garlic, it’s quite an easy crop to grow. Just follow these seasonal steps to help you get started. Hint: Mid-October to early November is when the majority of the work takes place.

FALL

Choose a location that is in the sunniest area of the garden. Lots of sun will produce large heads of garlic.

Prepare the soil in late summer, or as early in the Fall as possible. Or prepare the day before you plant if you can’t get to it sooner! Amending the soil is an often missed step but it will provide valuable nutrients for your garlic throughout the seasons.

Add organic compost like mushroom or sea compost, composted green waste, aged or composted manure, or a mix of any of these. Variety is best and all are great options. If you’re starting a new, raised bed, mix a ratio of 75% compost with 25% vermiculite to create a nice, light soil for your plants. This mix can also be added on top of the soil of an existing bed, making harvesting easier next summer!

Choose a garlic variety based on the flavour and size you like. There is softneck or hardneck garlic, but hardneck is recommended for growing in Canada. Also, hardneck varieties produce scapes which are a bonus crop - you can read more about that below. Red Russian, Music and Chesnock are just a few of the popular varieties grown in Ontario.

Separate the garlic cloves, or teeth, from the heads. As you’re breaking down the heads of garlic, it’s important to choose the largest cloves to plant. Starting with large cloves will increase your chances of growing large heads of garlic. Set aside any small cloves to cook with.

Planting! Sometime between early October to mid-November is a good range to get your garlic in the ground in Norfolk County. Basically, 4 to 6 weeks before the ground is frozen.

Here’s how to get your garlic in the ground!

1. When it comes to spacing, there are two options.  

Using a dibber or a hand trowel, create 3 to 4” deep holes in one of the following patterns: 

                     a) Make holes that are approximately 6” apart and in rows that are 6” apart. 

                     b) Make holes that are approximately 7” apart and in rows that are 7” apart. Then, go halfway between each row and make an offset row. This method is best if you don’t have a lot of space and will not impact the growth of the garlic.

     2. Place a handful of worm castings or organic 4:4:4 fertilizer in each hole and mix into the soil a bit.

     3. Place ONE clove in each hole, with the pointy end facing up and the flat end down.

     4. Backfill with surrounding soil so that each clove is covered 2-3”. This acts as protection during the cold winter months.

     5. Top with leaf mulch, leaves, or straw, and water in your garlic if there is no rain in the forecast for several days.

SPRING

This is the time to check on your garlic and give it a little more nutrition.

Look for signs of first growth in February or March, depending on how warm the weather is. When you see 3”- 4” of growth, remove the mulch from around each plant, or from the bed, and add it to the compost pile.

Add nutrients by amending the soil with 1 tablespoon of 4:4:4 organic fertilizer per square foot of the garden, or add a 1”- 2” layer of fresh compost. 

Water deeply from now on when the soil dries out. And that’s it! Your garlic is well set up to go into a BIG growth cycle.

SUMMER

Remove the scapes! Around mid-June look for the top of the stem of each plant to curl around forming what’s referred to as a “scape”. These curls, or scapes NEED to be removed so that the energy from the plant goes into growing the bulb, not into growing the seed head that is part of the curly scape. One full loop is a good time to cut or snap off the scape just above the top foliage.

All of the growth in the bulb happens once you remove the scape!

Here’s the bonus - garlic scapes are delicious! Chop them up and add them to soups, stews or anything you’re grilling. They also make excellent pesto!

Water and check your garlic for any pests throughout the growing season, just as you would with any other plants.

Harvest! Sometime in July, you will start to notice that the bottom leaves of your plant are dying. Don’t worry! The leaves on the plant correspond with the protective layers forming around the outside of your bulb, and they’re getting ready for harvest.

Around mid-July, 4 or 5 of the bottom leaves will be dead and this is your sign that it’s time to harvest your bulbs. 

• Stop watering your garlic 4 to 5 days before harvesting.
• Use a pitchfork or shovel to loosen the soil, keeping well away from each plant so that you don’t slice through the garlic heads.
• Gently pull up each bulb and shake off any soil hanging on to the roots. Resist the urge to wash the bulbs as moisture at this stage will promote mould or rot!

Cure your garlic harvest by hanging it in a cool, dry place that’s out of the sun and has good airflow for 2 to 3 weeks. You may need to use a fan for this step. 

Once cured, trim off the stems leaving 1-2” and the roots, and store in a dark, cool and dry spot in the house. Well-cured and stored garlic can last until sometime between December and February… unless you’re cooking, canning, and freezing with it and use most of it up! But don’t forget to save the biggest cloves to plant again in the Fall!