5 Easy Steps To Get Started

By Ava Green

There’s a common myth that you need a lot of space to grow vegetables, but whether you have a few containers, a small sunny corner, or a larger garden bed, there’s lots you can grow! Here in Norfolk County, which is Zone 6 in Southern Ontario, some vegetables can go in the ground as early as the beginning of May, while many others are usually safe to plant around the May 24th weekend, once the risk of frost has passed. Here are five simple steps to get you growing your own food this season if you’re new to vegetable gardening.

Step 1: Decide What You’d Love To Grow

Start with a list of the vegetables you actually want to eat. Coming into Eising Garden Centre with a list in hand makes choosing plants so much easier! When building your list, consider:

• Vegetables you love
• High-value vegetables, the ones that are expensive at the grocery store but easy and economical to grow yourself
• Anything that tastes better when it’s freshly picked, like tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh herbs

Step 2: Make a Simple Plan

You don’t need an elaborate design; a rough sketch on a scrap of paper is just fine. The goal is simply to get a sense of your space and where things will go before you start digging. We recommend starting a garden notebook or journal to track what you plant each year and how it performs. It will be especially helpful next spring!! A few planning tips to keep in mind:

• Most heat-loving vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant and beans, need at least six hours of sun per day
• Cool-weather and shade-tolerant crops like lettuce, chard, kale, radishes, and beets do well with just three to four hours of sun 

• Spacing in a vegetable garden can be much tighter than in other types of gardens. Less empty space means fewer weeds and bigger harvests. Square foot gardening is an excellent method to explore
• Layer your garden beds with plants that are great companions. For example, basil and marigolds planted beside tomatoes are said to improve flavour and repel pests. Carrot and beet seeds tucked in beside and between your lettuce plants (which are a cool-weather crop) are a smart pairing; as your lettuce finishes in the summer heat, your carrots and beets will be sprouting up to take their place. This is referred to as succession planting and optimizes the space in your garden
• Make use of vertical space with poles or trellises for peas, pole beans and cucumbers
• Tuck herbs into any gaps between your vegetables; they’re useful, beautiful, and most pollinators love them

Step 3: Prepare Your Space

Once you’ve chosen a spot with enough light, it’s time to get the soil ready:

• Remove any sod or weeds before planting. If you’d rather not dig, the No Dig gardening method uses a layer of cardboard as the base for the new bed. This suppresses weeds naturally and breaks down into the soil over time
• Add a good-quality compost to your soil by either spreading a layer across the top of the garden bed or scooping some into each plant hole 
• For container gardening, almost any container works, just make sure it’s deep and wide enough for the mature size of your plants. Also, drainage holes are a must! Fill containers with a soilless mix containing compost, peat moss or a peat alternative, and one of the following: sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Avoid using garden soil, triple mix, or topsoil in containers, as they compact easily and will restrict root growth. Learn more about soil mixes, amendments, and fertilizers here

Step 4: Water and Feed Consistently

Consistent watering and feeding are the foundation of a productive vegetable garden:

• Vegetables need regular, reliable watering. Inconsistent moisture leads to stressed plants and poor yields
• Always water the soil, not the leaves. Plant roots take in water, and wet foliage can invite disease. Water deeply so moisture reaches the roots. Use your fingers to check how far down the water has penetrated into the soil
• Containers dry out faster than garden beds and will need more frequent attention
• Morning is the best time to water. If your plants are struggling on a particularly hot afternoon, a second watering is fine. Just be sure to aim at the base of the plant and avoid the foliage, which can scorch in direct sun
• Feed with organic fertilizers throughout the season to keep your plants healthy and productive. Follow the package instructions for the product you choose

Step 5: Plant Flowers for Your Pollinators

A vegetable garden without pollinators is a garden that won’t reach its full potential. Attracting bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects to your garden is one of the best things you can do for your harvest. Some of our favourite pollinator-friendly flowers for the vegetable garden include marigold, calendula, nasturtium, borage, sunflowers and culinary lavender. As a bonus, most of these are edible, so they earn their space twice over.

It’s Time

Starting a vegetable garden is one of the most rewarding things you can do with an outdoor space. There’s a quiet satisfaction in growing something from seed or a seedling and bringing it to your own table. 

Start simple, grow what you love and don’t be afraid to learn as you go. 

The team at Eising Garden Centre is always happy to help you choose the right plants for your space and answer any questions along the way. This could be the season that changes the way you think about your garden!

Resources:

Why Use a Garden Journal?: https://eising.ca/why-use-a-garden-journal/

Square Foot Gardening: https://www.almanac.com/planning-square-foot-garden-grow-more-less-space

Fertilizers & Soil Amendments: https://eising.ca/fertilizers-soil-amendments/

Companion Planting: https://eising.ca/companion-planting-with-herbs/ and https://eising.ca/incorporating-vegetables-into-your-garden/

Optimizing the Gardening Season: https://eising.ca/optimizing-the-gardening-season/

No Dig Gardening Method: https://charlesdowding.co.uk/blogs/no-dig-resources/beginners-guide

Reading Plant Tags: https://eising.ca/full-sun-part-shade-what-do-plant-tags-actually-mean/

Growing Vegetables in Pots: https://eising.ca/planters-are-for-more-than-flowers/

By Ava Green

Is there anything sweeter than the scent of Lilacs in the spring? These beloved shrubs are remarkably easy to grow and will reward you with weeks of fragrant blooms for little or no effort. But a bit of attention can make a big difference, especially if you’ve noticed your blooms getting smaller or fewer with each passing year. 

To help your lilac put on its best show, keep these steps in mind:

• Plant in full sun, at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, in well-draining soil
• Water newer plants during prolonged periods of drought until established (the first 3 years)
• Feed your lilacs annually with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10, for example)
• Follow spacing instructions and prune yearly. Pruning is a very important step, and it’s well worth it.

Knowing When to Prune is Key

Timing is everything when it comes to pruning your lilacs. After the blooms fade, you have a two-week window to prune before the shrub sets its buds for next year's flowers. Yes, they set buds this year that will bloom next year! Pruning lilacs in the fall or the early spring risks cutting off all of the flower buds for the following year. Mark your calendar and prune promptly after flowering.

It also helps to understand how lilacs grow: Younger, thinner lilac stems produce more flowers. Older, thicker stems are more prone to disease and pests. Keeping this in mind will help with pruning decisions.

How To Prune Young Lilacs

If your lilac has been in the ground for less than three years, leave it alone; it doesn’t need pruning yet. Many young lilacs won’t bloom during those first few years.

After three years, once your shrub is established, begin by removing just one of the thickest, oldest stems down to the ground every 2 years. This gentle approach prevents the shrub from becoming overgrown while encouraging newer, flower-producing growth. 

How To Prune Older, Overgrown Lilacs

If your lilac has been neglected or grown out of control, you have two options:

Option 1: Gradual Rejuvenation

Begin by removing any damaged stems, as these invite pests that can harm the entire shrub. Next, remove only the largest, oldest stems by cutting them right down to the ground. The key is to remove no more than one-third of the living wood (dead stems don’t count toward that total). Leave the younger, thinner stems intact so your shrub can still bloom the following year. Repeat this process each spring for three years, and you’ll gradually restore the shrub to its full, flowering potential without sacrificing a single bloom season.

Option 2: Full Cutback

For a severely overgrown lilac that has been largely ignored, a complete cutback is often the most practical solution. Cut the entire shrub as close to the ground as possible, either in early spring or immediately after blooming. Yes, this breaks the general rule of never removing more than one-third of live wood, but lilacs are remarkably resilient and respond well to this kind of hard reset. By the end of summer, you will have healthy new stems of three to five feet tall. While the shrub won’t bloom for approximately three years after a full cutback, the long-term results are well worth the wait.

Deadheading Your Lilacs

Deadheading, or removing spent flower clusters after the blooms fade, is a simple task that’s separate from pruning, and can be done during that same two-week post-bloom window. When you trim off faded blooms, the plant redirects its energy from seed production toward building bigger, healthier buds for the next year. It takes only minutes and can make a meaningful difference in the size and abundance of next year’s flowers. 

A Note on Lawns and Lilacs

If your lilac grows near a lawn, be mindful of how much fertilizer you’re applying to the surrounding grass. Lawn fertilizers are typically high in nitrogen, which encourages lush leaf growth, but too much nitrogen reaching your lilac’s roots will suppress flower production.

Worthy Rewards

Lilacs are remarkably long-lived, often outlasting the gardens and even the homes they were planted beside. So whether you’re nursing a young shrub through its first few years or breathing new life into an old, overgrown beauty, the effort you put in now is an investment that will keep rewarding you, and perhaps generations after you. Every single spring!

By Ava Green

There’s a truth we all learn over time: good quality makes a big difference. Not buying more, buying smarter.

But how do you hold on to great pieces and make them look fresh and current? Start by getting yourself the perfect pair of jeans for the season. Great jeans work wonders to update your look. The right cut, the right wash, the right fit. It’s the closest thing to a style superpower you can own.  

To show you what we mean, we picked a pair of white Lois jeans from Sassyfras, and created four completely different looks.

Crisp Black and White

There is something timeless about a black-and-white outfit. Timeless made current with a new jean style. The printed scarf ties it all together and adds just enough personality to keep it from feeling too minimal.

Tie the scarf loosely around your neck, or loop it through the handle of your bag to pull the colours together. White-on-white (sweater and jeans) works beautifully, and varying the textures (knit vs. denim) keeps it interesting.

Sun-Kissed Orange

Orange and white is one of summer’s most joyful combinations. This outfit shows that beautifully. Playful, casual, and sunny. Tying a sweater around your waist or resting on your shoulders adds a relaxed, effortless layer that’s handy when you need a little extra warmth. 

Classic Blue and White

This is the most polished of the four looks. A white blouse paired with a fine-striped blue jacket feels relaxed and also put together. This is the kind of outfit that works equally well for a casual lunch or an afternoon of errands. The multi-coloured scarf, which introduces a bit of pink and orange, pulls all the elements together beautifully and adds a little bit of playfulness.  A blue bag grounds the colour palette.

The Colourful One

This look is so much fun. A multi-coloured sweater or blouse in bright, happy shades paired with white jeans is bold without trying too hard. White keeps it cohesive while the top gets to be the star. The woven macrame handbag adds texture and an artisan quality that feels intentional and individual. This outfit says: I’m having fun. The baseball cap is the punctuation mark! Vibrant, creative and completely at ease.

The Key to Making it Easy

Styled with intention and a little creativity, a single great piece, like our Lois jeans, can carry you through every mood and occasion. Wearing what brings you joy is always the right answer, and we have an inspiring selection at Sassyfras to make choosing easy. Stop by the boutique and see for yourself! 

Sassyfras Boutique is located inside Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre.

How to Keep Your Hanging Basket as Gorgeous as the Day You Brought it Home, All Summer Long!

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Remember your Mother's Day hanging basket with its variety of colours, textures, and plant combinations? Maybe there was Verbena cascading elegantly with their colourful star like blossoms, double Begonias for the porch in spectacular shades of reds, pinks, and burgundies, and of course the vigorously growing Petunias and Geraniums, to name just a few. But as the Summer goes on, they just don’t seem to have that same stamina.

   To keep your hanging baskets in great shape and avoid the dry, wilted, bald spotted, leggy look that occurs to containers every August, one should follow these easy tips.

Watering

Plastic, fibre, and especially moss lined baskets dry out quickly. They should be checked twice daily and watered every day. Be sure to wet the moss sides as well.

   Try to maintain uniform soil moisture. When watering, fill the top of the container with pooling water until it ‘pees,’ and allow it to drip out of the bottom of the basket every time you apply water. Frequent severe wilting will impact upon the quality of the basket.

   At this time of year, one could take the basket down and soak it in a tub of water for 20 minutes to hydrate the entire root ball, once every week.

Deadheading

Remove spent flowers on a weekly basis (this is called deadheading) to prevent plants from going to seed. This will encourage more flower production. Part of the beauty of the mixed basket is its prolonged display, just like in your garden.

Check for Pests!

During your weekly deadheading, keep a watchful eye out for aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars. If you see any, try a quick spray of insecticidal soap to keep them from becoming an infestation.

🖱️ If you're noticing fungus gnats in your hanging baskets, find more on eradicating them here!

Pruning

Not every plant in the basket will be at its peak all season.

   Cutting plants back after a flush of bloom will tidy them up and prepare them for a fresh crop of flowers. Meanwhile, other varieties will begin putting on a show. This is especially true for Petunias.

    A good cut back of long, lanky branches will reap benefits.

Fertilizing

Daily watering means nutrients can leach out of the soil before the plants can absorb them. The baskets should have both slow release granular added to the growing media and a weekly feeding of 15-30-15 soluble fertilizer. Use a solution containing micronutrients, as plants like Petunias need extra iron.

Sheltering

It has been suggested, if possible, that during stretches of extreme heat, give your baskets a break and move them to a cooler, shaded spot to de-stress for a couple of days. This is also suggested when heading on vacation. Your flowers will rebound to their former beautiful selves!

We hope this long term hanging basket care guide helps you enjoy your purchase all summer long! For more information - and beautiful plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌸

By Ava Green

Usually, by the time February or March rolls around, I’m pretty tired of the health crazes like extreme diets and exercise plans I’ve been trying for the fifth year in a row. This year, let’s take a look at something that naturally supports our good health, both mental and physical. It’s time to stop and “smell the flowers,” so to speak.

Mental and Physical Health

Many gardeners already realize this, but studies are showing that simply seeing greenery can benefit our mental health. Whether it's a walk in the woods or a handful of houseplants, seeing green leaves makes a difference for humans! Research shows that it helps boost our mood and improve how we get along with people. Who doesn’t need a mood booster during cold, dark days? And getting along with people, well, the world just needs more of that, too, doesn’t it?

You may also already know that tending to plants reduces stress, but did you know that science is proving it? PubMed published a study stating:

"Interaction with indoor plants may reduce psychological and physiological stress by suppressing autonomic nervous system activity in young adults: a randomized crossover study."

This isn’t the common thinking about working outside in the garden increasing physical strength and stamina. It’s a study that examines our autonomic nervous system, the one responsible for automatic and essential bodily functions we don’t even think about, like breathing. The study compared participants performing two tasks: one on a computer and the other doing plant transplanting. The results suggest that interaction with plants indeed reduce stress without us even thinking about it! No task that requires willpower, just daily tending to plants like transplanting, watering, dusting, pruning, or turning the pots to get sun on the flipside.

So plants boost our mood, improve interactions with others and physically reduce our stress levels without us even trying. It’s no wonder we just feel better when we’re around plants.

Air Quality

Research also shows that indoor air pollution is often worse than outdoor air pollution. VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) from washing detergents, paint, furnishings, and building materials, as well as bacteria, fungal spores, and dust, negatively affect human health.

Fresh air can counter the impact of indoor pollutants, but often it’s too cold to open the windows in the middle of winter. When you can’t let fresh air into the house, indoor plants will help. We know that growing trees outdoors has a massive impact on air quality and the health of the planet, and inside our home, tropical plants contribute in the same way. The contribution of each type of plant varies, so having a variety is a very good idea.

What to Grow

Here’s a list of easy-to-grow, green indoor plants that Eising’s resident tropical plant expert, Courtney, and the UK’s Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) recommend:

Aglaonema ‘Silver Queen’ (Chinese evergreen ‘Silver Queen’)

Aspidistra elatior (common Aspidistra, Cast Iron plant)

Chamaedorea elegans (Parlour Palm)

Chamaedorea seifrizii (Bamboo Palm)

Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)

Crassula ovata (syn. Crassula portulacea) (Jade plant, Jade tree)

Dracaena fragrans ‘Janet Craig’ (Dragon Plant)

Dieffenbachia ‘Tropic Snow’ (v) (Dumb Cane)

Dracaena marginata (v) (Madagascar dragon tree)

Epipremnum aureum and ‘Marble Queen’

Ferns - many types

Ficus elastica (Rubber tree, Rubber plant)

Hedera helix (English ivy, common ivy)

Howea forsteriana (Flat Palm, Kentia palm)

Rhapis excelsa (Bamboo Palm, Lady Palm)

Sansevieria (Snake Plant) - many types

Spathiphyllum sp. (Peace Lily)

Syngonium podophyllum (Nephthytis)

Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant, fern arum)

Is there a downside to having houseplants? Yes, if you have small children or pets, be mindful of the plants that can be toxic if ingested (see resources listed below).

While many of us in Ontario focus on “nice” weather and getting outside to garden, it’s pretty clear that our indoor plants do much of the heavy lifting to improve our health through the cooler seasons. Even if you don’t have a “green thumb”, it’s worth giving tropical, indoor houseplants their well-deserved space in our homes, hospitals, offices, nursing homes, classrooms, restaurants…or any indoor space!

Resources:

PubMed study on indoor plants and their impact on human stress - https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4419447/

Sally Augustin, PhD, Environmental Psychologist - https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/blog/people-places-and-things/201802/benefits-of-the-indoor-plant

RHS - https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/houseplants/for-human-health

For a list of indoor plants and the VOCs they have the potential to reduce, PubMed review article by Dela Cruz et al., 2014 - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25056742/

PETAs list of plants that are safe for pets: https://www.peta.org/living/humane-home/animal-friendly-houseplants/?utm_source=PETA::Google&utm_medium=Ad&utm_campaign=0422::veg::PETA::Google::SEA-Vegan-Grant::::searchad&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=96533821&gbraid=0AAAAADu2DAt3SGF9vPRkHJqkNw-eZ6kEH&gclid=CjwKCAiAvaLLBhBFEiwAYCNTf9nyavbUnefHx0FaUekq4HZyXPrIwYhnJqgnu_g_TPea3nExhT-jOhoCqLUQAvD_BwE

RHS list of safest plants for children: https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/houseplants/houseplants-for-children

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Many home gardeners are really missing their harvest of fresh vegetables these wintry days – and many beginners have New Year’s resolutions to become greener thumbs.

Seeds to Start

The seeds of many vegetables and beans are suitable for hydroponic sprouting into tasty young shoots that will be ready for the table in less than a week!

   Seeds such as alfalfa, broccoli, clover, lentil, mung bean, mustard, onion, radish and soybean are excellent choices for this activity plus they are invaluable in terms of their nutritional content.

Sprouting seeds on your kitchen counter takes only minutes a day, and the reward is a steady supply of fresh, crunchy shoots.

   It is important to start by purchasing some packaged seed expressly for sprouting. The directions will indicate how much is needed to produce 100 grams of sprouts. The seed-to-sprout ratio can differ substantially - anywhere from 1.5 to 8.5 units of sprouts or more per one unit of seed - so follow directions carefully and make sure your jar is large enough to accommodate all the sprouts while still leaving room for good air circulation. As a rule, begin with 1 tbsp. (15 mL) of seeds for small varieties such as alfalfa and radish, 2 to 3 tbsp. (30 to 45 mL) for medium ones such as lentil, and up to 4 tbsp. (60 mL) for large seeds such as beans and peas.

Seeds to Sprouts

Simply put seeds into jar and position screening over opening, using an elastic band to hold the covering in place. Fill jar one-third full of warm (about 40°C) water and swirl seeds around for a minute or so. With the covering in place, drain water. Refill jar one-third full of cool water and let seeds soak for four to eight hours.

   Next, begin daily regimen of rinsing seeds three times a day at roughly eight-hour intervals. Drain and refill jar with cool water, swirl seeds for about 30 seconds and drain again. Then, invert the jar so screening is at the bottom and rest it at a 45-degree angle in the bowl. Place on the kitchen counter out of direct light (place bean shoots in complete darkness, as they often taste sweeter when they're grown this way). Repeat this process for three to five days.

Simple Sustenance

You can start to harvest your sprouts once they're three to five centimetres long. Rinse and drain them thoroughly and place them in an airtight container and refrigerate immediately; they should remain fresh for up to five days.

   Clover, alfalfa, radish, and mustard seeds give rise to the delicious sandwich booster sprouts. Sprouts are one of the most concentrated natural sources of vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and amino acids.

Plants inside the home help bring life to a long winter, if you’re looking for more information – or plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌱

How To Keep Your Orchid Alive

By Ava Green

Orchids have become very popular gifts, and a great hobby for indoor plant enthusiasts who discover the wide range of colours and shapes available. Orchids are also loved for their long-lasting and exotic blooms.

While some may choose to only enjoy these tropical plants as long as they’re blooming, orchid-lovers look forward to nurturing the plant and encouraging it to flower regularly. It may be a little daunting at first, but once orchids grace you with their stunningly beautiful blossoms, you will find that a little bit of care is very worthwhile!

It’s estimated that there are 25,000 different species of orchids and over 100,000 hybrids! The ones you’ll find most readily in Ontario stores are Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, because it’s fairly easy to grow. Phalaenopsis are the best choice for beginners.

Other orchids you may find easily are Cattleyas (Corsage Orchids), Cymbidiums (Boat Orchids) and Dendrobium orchids.

While all of these may be orchids, they don’t necessarily require the same care, so it’s a good idea to check the tag for the type you have and its specific care requirements. The following is a general guide to light, water, fertilizer, and growing medium for the most commonly found orchids, but it does not apply to all breeds.

Light and Air

For most orchids, light, and lots of it, is the general rule. Place your plants within 3 feet of a window (not to the side) in the sun. South, east, and west-facing windows are all fine for maximizing the light your plant receives.

Orchids also enjoy a breeze or circulating air in your house. They do not like temperature extremes, though 15 to 20 degrees Celsius is safe. Keep in mind that the more warmth and air movement there is, the more often you will need to water your orchid.

Water

A general rule is to use water that is not hard and has not been softened with salt. Salt will kill an orchid. Rainwater, reverse osmosis, or distilled water are good choices. Chlorinated water is not an issue for orchids - high sodium levels are.

The biggest issue many people have is either over-watering or underwatering their orchids. Here is the method we recommend:

Every 5-7 days, place the pot in a container or the sink, then fill it with enough water to cover the top of the pot. Be careful not to let water collect in the crook at the base of the leaves, as standing water will rot the leaves and the plant. Once the plant’s growing medium is thoroughly soaked, remove it from the water and allow the pot to fully drain in the sink before placing it back in its saucer. 

We prefer using a container of water rather than the sink, so the remaining water can be used to water other plants.

Here’s the best watering advice we can give you: look at the overall health of both the plant AND its root system. Full, plump leaves and vibrant, green roots indicate that your plant is getting enough moisture. Puckered leaves and a silver sheen on the roots indicate insufficient water. Mushy, brown leaves and roots are signs of rot caused by too much water.

You may hear of another watering method that involves using ice cubes, but it’s controversial and not widely recommended. To quote the American Orchid Society, “Ice is for cocktails, not orchids. Never use ice on tropical plants to water them.”

“Soil” and Nutrients

Most orchids naturally grow high up in trees, where their roots cling to bark and absorb moisture from the air. At home, we try to mimic those conditions, which is why orchids are typically planted in chunky mediums like bark, coconut husk, charcoal, or perlite rather than traditional soil. While many of the roots stay inside the pot, it’s completely normal for some to grow up and over the edge.

These “escapee” roots might look a little wild, but don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with your orchid. In fact, those aerial roots are a sign that the plant is healthy and doing exactly what orchids do in nature.

It’s worth noting that not all orchids grow the same way. Many, like Dendrobiums, are epiphytic (growing on trees) or lithophytic (growing on rocks), though some orchid varieties are terrestrial and grow in the ground. The good news is that the growing medium your orchid comes in is chosen specifically for that variety, so you can trust it’s in the right environment.

The bark that your orchid is planted in will slowly break down and become mushy. It’s a very good idea to repot your plant every two years.

It’s generally recommended to feed most orchids, and bloom time dictates which fertilizer to use and how often to feed. Begin by using a water-soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer, mixing it at ¼ the amount recommended for other houseplants. Apply this solution every 2 weeks in the summer and every 3 weeks in the winter.

“The orchid, with its many forms, is a reminder that life is full of surprises.” — Leonardo da Vinci.

Lastly, here’s an orchid fun fact: While we have been talking about tropical orchids in this article, there are also orchids that grow right here in Ontario! That’s right, there are over 50 species in this province, including the much-loved Pink Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule).  

Resources for more detailed and specific information: 

Toronto Master Gardeners - https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/growing-orchids-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/

Canadian Orchid Congress - https://canadianorchidcongress.ca/basics/growing-orchids/

American Orchid Society - https://www.aos.org/orchid-care/indoor-orchid-care

Ontario Wildflowers - https://ontariowildflowers.com/main/group.php?id=18

Christmas Gift Buying Made Easy

By Ava Green

The Eising Holiday Gift Guide has become a popular tradition, and this year, I asked staff members to share their favourite gifts. We have some great picks to brighten anyone’s holidays: family, friends, teachers, hosts/hostesses, the cat sitter, the dog sitter - anyone you would like to wish a Merry Christmas to!

Everlasting Decorations

What looks good every year? Everlasting decorations! Kirsten’s favourites are natural wreaths with just a bit of an embellishment. Elegant, timeless and oh-so-festive!

An ornament from our Giving Tree is Arlene’s choice because she can gift the beautiful glass cardinal, and the proceeds go to the local toy drive. Now that’s a gift that keeps on giving!

We also have lots of beautiful everlasting garlands, and Lindsey’s favourites: holiday-themed decorative containers to choose from. These festive plant pots transform any houseplant into a Christmasy gift or are perfect for holding other treasures if you’re creating a gift basket. 

Fresh Greenery

There’s an entire team of decorators, no…creators, no….elves, no…very talented staff members who spend the holiday season making the most beautiful urns, planters, and fresh greenery centrepieces. Donna and I are holding two of our favourites. Mary stopped making festive urns just long enough for this photo to be taken! She really pours her heart into it.

Tropicals, Holiday Plants, and Bulbs

As always, Courtney has a phenomenal selection of tropical plants to choose from. Do not ask her which one is her favourite. Trust me. Too many to count.

Ely is hoping for some gardening tools under the tree this year, and what gardener couldn’t use an array of trowels?!

Lori is ready for a party with her favourite hostess gifts - Amaryllis bulbs. Apparently, the Grinch likes plants, too. Who knew? Cindy Lou Who, possibly, and Lori.

Sassy Fashion

Donna is wearing and holding some of her favourite clothes, jewelry, accessories, and products from Sassyfras Boutique inside Eising Greenhouse. Yes, she has many favourites. In her defence, who can pick just one thing from Sassyfras?! Not us.

For Your Favourite People!

Finally, this is THE most flexible item in the guide, our Eisings gift card. It can also be the perfect solution for the person who has everything already and is hard to buy for. Why is this Lucas’s favourite?  Eising gift cards can be used for plants, landscaping, trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, seeds, tropicals, decor, pots, garden tools, and any other items sold in the greenhouse. And that’s not all! Gift cards can also be used for anything in Sassyfras Boutique. So many options!

Good Tidings To All!

During this season of abundance, Henry and all of us at Eisings hope you get all of your favourite things, but mostly we wish you a safe and happy holiday season! ✨

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

This is the time of year that most garden centres will have on display their wide variety of Amaryllis bulbs, including the evermore popular waxed dipped. These enormous bulbs that are appearing now will be ready to burst into bloom within 4-8 weeks after planting.

Non-Wax Dipped: Planting

All Amaryllis need is a bit of commercial potting soil that should not cover the shoulders of the bulb (try leaving about 1/3^rd of the bulb showing above the soil line), with the nose (or narrow end) of the bulb peeping well over the top of the pot. Make sure that you use a well-drained container that is 3-4” bigger in diameter than the bulb itself.

☝️A heavy clay pot will prevent this top-heavy plant from toppling over. To achieve continuous bloom, plant at intervals of two weeks for stunning colour in your home.

Non-Wax Dipped: Care

Once leaves emerge, fertilize once a month with a 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Water sparingly and wait for the miracle in a warm sunny room. Sub-irrigation or watering from the bottom of the drip tray will keep the surface soil dry, thus keeping and bulb rot organisms and those pesky fungus gnats at bay.

Non-Wax Dipped: It's Not Done Yet!

When blooming is over, remove the scape (or flower stock) and place the plant in a sunny spot and continue to water. This is to allow the leaves to regenerate the bulb. In springtime, when all danger of frost has passed, bring the bulb outdoors and let it spend its holidays in a shady spot. In some varieties the leaves will die back in September to give the plant a rest for a couple months. Stop watering and store the bulb on its side in a cool place for about eight weeks, when the leaves will once again begin to emerge.

   Amaryllis can go 3-4 years without repotting as they don’t mind a little crowding. Try growing a couple of bulbs in larger pots to see if you can get a clump of flowers from the offshoots or babies that will develop after a couple of years.

Or, Try One of These Wax Dipped Bulbs!

Now growing more popular are the care-free waxed-bulb Amaryllis!

   Experienced growers and beginners alike love that these waxed bulbs do not need to be planted or watered! Each of these robust bulbs are carefully prepared in festive-coloured wax, allowing you the freedom to place them among your holiday decorations.

   Simply keep the bulbs at an ambient room temperature of at least 16C (70F)  for beautiful blooms in five to six weeks. 

   These novelty items are low commitment! Their only fault is their lack of longevity - gardeners don’t get to enjoy them after year as these waxed bulbs were designed to be a one-use throwaway item!

   BUT with a little luck and perseverance you may be able to save the bulb for next season after blooming. All you have to do is to carefully remove the wax layer, remove the flower stalk and place the bulb and with its remaining leaves into a pot of good growing media, allowing the leaves to regenerate the food stores in the expired bulb.

   If you’re looking for more information – or perhaps, Amaryllis – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! Happy Holidays! ✨

How to Stay Warm and Stylish

By Ava Green

Colder temperatures are around the corner, and some of us are not looking forward to it! Whether you love winter or not, Sassyfras Boutique inside Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre has the cozy, stylish clothes you need to look your best and stay warm all season long. 

Begin with Layers

Fall, winter, and spring can all bring unpredictable weather to our corner of southern Ontario, so layering is key. Winter is an especially good time to follow the 3-layer rule:

• A base layer keeps you dry
• A mid-layer adds warmth
• An outer layer protects from the elements

Build Your Cold-Weather Capsule Wardrobe

Creating a winter capsule wardrobe makes dressing warm and stylish easy and stress-free. Here are a few ideas to get started:

Base Layer: 

Start with a basic tee, a long-sleeve mock neck, or a long-sleeve crew neck top. Choose natural fabrics that wick moisture and keep you dry. 

Tights or leggings make a great foundation under dresses or pants for added warmth. 

Mid Layer:

For warmth, add a sweatshirt, a crewneck sweater, a v-neck sweater, or a turtleneck. 

If you’re stopping at two layers, choose a chunky knit or oversized sweater for a cozy statement look.

On top of your tights or leggings, try a faux-suede skirt, faux-leather pants, wide-leg trousers, jeans, or a dress, maybe even a comfy sweater dress. 

Outer Layer:

Top it all off with an eye-catching outer layer! Try a bomber jacket, blazer, faux-fur jacket, puffer vest or jacket, or a trendy coatigan for warmth and style.

Accessorize to Elevate Your Look

What makes an outfit really stand out? The accessories! At Sassyfras, you’ll find everything you need to complete your winter look.

From belts (perfect for cinching a blazer or dress) to trendy handbags, classic tote bags, sunglasses, and a wide selection of everyday jewellery, including locally made, one-of-a-kind pieces. You’ll find the perfect finishing touches that reflect your personal style.

Mix, Match and Stay Cozy

Once you’ve built your base, mid, and outer layers, the fun begins! Mix and match your pieces to create new combinations that make winter dressing simple, cozy, and chic. 

With just a few well-chosen items from Sassyfras, you’ll be ready to step out in style, no matter how cold it gets! ❄️