By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

In late June and early July we will be witnessing the annual invasion of the Japanese Beetle on many of our favourite landscape plantings including Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Hibiscus, Roses, Grapes, and Raspberries.

   Adult beetles skeletonize foliage.

   Many of us have tried the various means available to curb this yearly destruction like pheromone traps, Nematode lawn inoculation, hand picking, and concoctive sprays. But still, we get substantive damage.

   Interestingly enough, some plants such as Geranium, Castor Bean, and the flowers of Bottlebrush Buckeye, will cause paralysis and death of these beetles when eaten.

Maybe it’s Time We Look at Whole New Approach

Why not slowly invest in a landscape makeover? One with Japanese Beetle resistant plants!

   Trees such as Red Maple, Red Oak, Hickory, and Redbud could replace the susceptible Japanese Maple, Norway Maple, Pin Oak, Linden, and Mountain Ash.

   Why not consider growing more Evergreens such as Holly, Yew, Boxwood, and Aborvitae instead of the prone Virginia Creeper, Apple and Plum family of trees, and Birches.

   You also may want to contemplate planting perennials such as Coral-Bells, Hostas, Pachysandra, Sedum and Foxglove as opposed to the Japanese Beetle standard menu fare of Evening Primrose, Hydrangea, Clematis, Potentilla, and Zinnia.

   Yes, we do have some preventative measures at our disposal to battle the Japanese Beetle (find how to use beneficial nematodes in our fall chore blog) but due to the nature of this pest, it will inevitably win the war. If we continue to grow the some 400+ preferred host plants in our landscape, providing an adequate food source for this invasive pest rather than replacing them with resistant species, surely this pest will make gardening a chore instead of the pleasure it should be.

We hope this article will aid in the prevention of Japanese Beetles in your garden space! For more information – and Japanese Beetle resistant plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🪲

Perennial Climbers to Start Growing Now

By Ava Green

Great garden design plays with height, and vines are among nature’s most elegant solutions. They transform a bare wall, a plain fence or an open pergola into something that feels alive and intentional. And because these are perennial climbers, they come back every year, a little fuller and more beautiful than the season before. 

Start growing one of these beauties now, and you’ll be enjoying them for years to come!

Clematis

Clematis has earned its place as one of the most loved climbers in the garden, and once you discover the extraordinary range of flower shapes, sizes and colours available, you will understand why. 

For a look that feels straight out of an English cottage garden, pair a Clematis with a climbing rose. The two intertwine beautifully, flowering together in a spectacular combination. 

Honeysuckle

The sweet, heady scent of Honeysuckle wafting through the air on a warm summer evening is a good reason to include this climber in your garden. But its tubular or trumpet-shaped blossoms are also irresistible to hummingbirds, bees and butterflies, making it valuable to your local ecosystem too. Few vines reward you quite so generously for so little effort. 

Climbing Hydrangea

It may be slow to start, but once it’s established, Climbing Hydrangea grows with remarkable vigour, covering walls, fences and structures in lush, deep green foliage. No trellis is needed; it produces its own aerial rootlets that allow it to cling independently to almost any hard surface. In summer, the entire plant is blanketed in elegant white lacecap flowers! It tolerates shade better than most climbers, making it an exceptional choice for a north-facing wall or a shady spot in the garden.

Porcelain Vine 

This fast-growing climber is a treasure for its extraordinary ornamental berries. Clusters of small, jewel-like fruits that ripen through a stunning progression of colours, from pale pink and lilac to a rich purple and a remarkable, almost iridescent turquoise blue, all appearing at the same time in fall. Train it up a fence, trellis or structure to let it climb, or allow it to trail gracefully down a slope or over a retaining wall for beautiful low-maintenance ground coverage. Please note: the berries are strictly ornamental, and not for eating. 

Graceful, Useful and Very Worthwhile

Vines provide something that few other plants can; they add height, softness, privacy, and beauty all at once. They can disguise an unsightly fence, cool a sun-baked wall with natural shade, frame a garden entrance, or simply bring a sense of lushness to a space that feels too bare or flat. 

Find Your Perfect Vine at Eising Garden Centre

Not sure which vine is right for your space? Bring us your questions and, if you have them, a photo of your wall, fence, or structure. Our team will help you find the perfect climber for your light conditions, your soil, and your vision. We’d love to help you get growing your perfect vine!

Making a Lot ... A Lot More

By Ely Schweyer

This spring, Mary – you may know her as the Perennials Gal at Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre – invited me over for a garden tour. I knew to expect a good collection of perennials, but this garden also shines with personality and character. Having brought my big camera, I wanted to help Mary show off all her efforts, as this property has undergone some serious changes. If you wish to make your garden unique to you, whilst eco and budget friendly, may this garden tour inspire you!

A Clean Slate

Mary and her husband, Chris, brought their 60’ x 120’ property in July of 1985, which was then “no trees, no lawn, just weeds.”

The lack of trees and the overabundance of Norfolk County clay resulted in drainage issues, which led to the first planted tree drowning, and quickly made mowing a strenuous chore.

The Fix

With her husband driving truck for a construction business, Mary and Chris had access to hauling 17 dump truck loads of sand home to raise the property. Mary says the blue-grey clumps of clay still make their way to the surface – but the drainage issues have subsided!

🖱️ Visit this blog to learn more about soil amendments!

Mary then focused on establishing some native trees on a small budget, and that’s when the community began to grow in her garden. “We have had the best neighbors ever, for 46 years, watched their kids grow, and leave, and come back, and leave - pets come and go - quite the legacy!” With the leaves she collected from her neighbours, Maple Trees volunteered sporadically over the property. Then, after buying a native Carolinian forest seed package at a Toronto garden show, Mary carefully seeded Yellow Birch, White Birch, Wild Crab Apple, and three Sycamores, which now stand tall and proud in her garden. One of my favourites in the little forest was a variegated lilac!

These trees not only provide protection for the house and the many birds but also offer enough shade to maintain a moss-like lawn that requires minimal mowing. The shady canopy offers a coziness adding to the overall quaintness of the garden.

The Perennials Gal’s Perennials

In 1985, the property was surrounded by woodlots; however, all is subject to change. “When we learned of a housing development planned for the forest across the highway from us, I lead crusades to save the native plants that were so abundant there.” The forest may now be gone, but the Trilliums, Mayapples, Violets, Solomon’s Seal, and Ferns are still growing happily and abundantly in Mary’s – and her neighbours’ – gardens. “Over the years I have shared many trunk loads of perennials, many of which were given to me!” Other notable perennials in Mary’s garden are an abundance of Crocus and Forget-Me-Nots, a Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and a Prickly Pear Cactus.

Hardscaping

One of my favourite things in any garden is creative ways to recycle and repurpose, and Mary’s garden does not disappoint!

Immediately, one will notice the unique pathways that intertwine throughout the spaces. Mary collects broken terracotta and ceramic pottery pieces to create footpaths akin to mosaics. The addition of colour is not only visual but provides an audio sensory experience as one moves throughout the garden, “we can always tell when a little animal is coming to visit us sitting out here,” as the pieces gently clink underfoot.

I also must make note of the wine cork pathway to the fairy garden!

The back patio too is tasteful and playful visually, with blue blocks laid interspersed. You’ll be pleased to know that the Dover Arena lives on in Mary’s garden – the repurposed blocks lie on their sides – and the blue? Those came from the men’s washroom!

The Ponds

Two little ponds provide popular watering holes for birds, raccoons, skunks, opossums, and the neighbours' cats, all of which are welcome.

The pond nearest the patio is a fish tote off the Dover Fish Tugs. Mary dug into the clay to set the 4’ x 4’ x 3’ deep tote, knowing she had one chance or she’d never be able to pull the heavy tote out. “We figure that whoever inherits this property will have to dynamite the pond out, it is set in Norfolk County Clay!” The tote pond is home to a family of goldfish, who don’t mind wintering in it with its little waterfall that keeps the water moving. The goldfish weave through Irises, Waterlilies, and Dwarf Hyacinth.

Another small pond sits in the very back of the yard between the trees, visited by many birds and critters.

The Fairy Garden

As a fun ongoing project, Mary recently began a fairy garden – and is it ever quaint! Central to a tree and skirted by a pathway, many of the pieces are thrifted or gifted!

Pots as More Than Just Containers

Mary uses pots to extend where she can grow her favourites; this is an excellent way to create varying heights, breaking up horizon lines and adding interest. The terracotta orange also contrasts beautifully with Mary’s frequent use of blue.

Things that Make it Just Mary and Chris

Vintage and found objects help to ground any space. Mary and Chris have collected rocks, driftwood, shells, “anything that makes a statement, big or small,” bringing unique natural elements into their garden that sync with their interests.

Mary and Chris, founders of Port Dover’s famed Friday the 13th, undoubtedly have a longtime love of motorcycles. In March of 1978, they travelled south to Daytona, Florida, for Bike Week, the largest motorcycle event in the world. There, Mary would earn a ‘raccoon’ nickname from wearing wide-brimmed shades all day in the sun. “Of all the stuffed toys Chris could possibly have owned at that time, he had a little raccoon at his bed side table, I still have it, it would be Number 1 of 3920! Yes, the collection is cataloged, every piece is given a number and recorded. I still collect to this day, but am very selective as to what I buy, as I have so many.” Mary’s raccoon collection is playfully hidden throughout her garden, with little mischievous eyes watching you as you move about. The ornaments help to draw the eye up into the trees and into the shrubs. Mary makes an effort to carefully pack them all up in the fall and bring them out again each spring.

Speaking of spring, this blog will be updated with summer and fall pictures as the garden moves through time!

Mary’s garden is a little ode to a life well cherished; no one thing in it is without purpose or a memory. It is also a great example of reusing and repurposing – gardening does not have to cost an arm and a leg to be great. When you enter the space, you know whose energy is channeled into it, and that is, in my opinion, exactly how to garden!

A Full List of Plants that Grow in Mary’s Garden

Plants that Enjoy Zone 5a and 6b - Provided by Mary

TREES and SHRUBS

• Norway Maple
• Sugar Maple
• Sycamore
• White Birch
• Yellow Birch
• Cedars
• Forsythia
• Burning Bush
• Butterfly Bush
• Kousa Dogwood
• Weeping Cherry
• Sand Cherry
• Pine
• American Oak
• Ginkgo 
• Red Bud
• Annabelle Hydrangia
• Variegated Lilac 
• Wisteria
• Rose of Sharon
• Variegated Euonymus
• Juniper
• Holly Bush
• Wild Crabapple

SPRING BULB PERENNIALS

• Tulips, Daffodil, Hyacinth, Narcissus, Windflower, Snowdrops, Cilia, Crocus, Frittalaria, Grape Hyacinth

FREE SEEDERS

• Forget Me Nots
• Lunaria (Money Tree) 
• Columbine
• Sun drops

GARDEN PERENNIALS

• Hostas (approx 10 species)
• Irises (approx 4 species)
• Tall Phlox: pink, purple, white, coral
• Creeping Phlox
• Candytuft
• Periwinkle
• Lily of the Valley
• Oriental Poppies
• Cranesbill Geranium
• Jacobs Ladder
• Lamnium
• Goutweed
• Lungwort
• Sweet Woodruff 
• Clematis
• Ivy ground cover
• Sedum, creeping 2 Species
• Sedum tall
• Ajuga
• Blue Grass
• Hens and Chickens - 100’s!
• Variegated Solomon’s Seal
• Allium
• Beard Tongue
• Brunaria
• Goats Beard
• Bergenia
• Creeping Thyme

NATIVE PERENNIALS

• Red and white Trillium
• Jack in the Pulpit
• Wild Geranium
• Mayapple
• Wild Violet
• Ferns (approx 6 kinds) 
• Solomon’s Seal
• Euphorbia
• Prickly Pear Cactus

POND PLANTS

• Yellow Iris
• Dwarf Hyacinth
• Water Lily

Be sure to visit Mary in the perennials section at Eising Greenhouse & Garden Centre this summer for many of the mentioned plants – and be sure to make your garden yours! 🪴

5 Easy Steps To Get Started

By Ava Green

There’s a common myth that you need a lot of space to grow vegetables, but whether you have a few containers, a small sunny corner, or a larger garden bed, there’s lots you can grow! Here in Norfolk County, which is Zone 6 in Southern Ontario, some vegetables can go in the ground as early as the beginning of May, while many others are usually safe to plant around the May 24th weekend, once the risk of frost has passed. Here are five simple steps to get you growing your own food this season if you’re new to vegetable gardening.

Step 1: Decide What You’d Love To Grow

Start with a list of the vegetables you actually want to eat. Coming into Eising Garden Centre with a list in hand makes choosing plants so much easier! When building your list, consider:

• Vegetables you love
• High-value vegetables, the ones that are expensive at the grocery store but easy and economical to grow yourself
• Anything that tastes better when it’s freshly picked, like tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh herbs

Step 2: Make a Simple Plan

You don’t need an elaborate design; a rough sketch on a scrap of paper is just fine. The goal is simply to get a sense of your space and where things will go before you start digging. We recommend starting a garden notebook or journal to track what you plant each year and how it performs. It will be especially helpful next spring!! A few planning tips to keep in mind:

• Most heat-loving vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant and beans, need at least six hours of sun per day
• Cool-weather and shade-tolerant crops like lettuce, chard, kale, radishes, and beets do well with just three to four hours of sun 

• Spacing in a vegetable garden can be much tighter than in other types of gardens. Less empty space means fewer weeds and bigger harvests. Square foot gardening is an excellent method to explore
• Layer your garden beds with plants that are great companions. For example, basil and marigolds planted beside tomatoes are said to improve flavour and repel pests. Carrot and beet seeds tucked in beside and between your lettuce plants (which are a cool-weather crop) are a smart pairing; as your lettuce finishes in the summer heat, your carrots and beets will be sprouting up to take their place. This is referred to as succession planting and optimizes the space in your garden
• Make use of vertical space with poles or trellises for peas, pole beans and cucumbers
• Tuck herbs into any gaps between your vegetables; they’re useful, beautiful, and most pollinators love them

Step 3: Prepare Your Space

Once you’ve chosen a spot with enough light, it’s time to get the soil ready:

• Remove any sod or weeds before planting. If you’d rather not dig, the No Dig gardening method uses a layer of cardboard as the base for the new bed. This suppresses weeds naturally and breaks down into the soil over time
• Add a good-quality compost to your soil by either spreading a layer across the top of the garden bed or scooping some into each plant hole 
• For container gardening, almost any container works, just make sure it’s deep and wide enough for the mature size of your plants. Also, drainage holes are a must! Fill containers with a soilless mix containing compost, peat moss or a peat alternative, and one of the following: sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Avoid using garden soil, triple mix, or topsoil in containers, as they compact easily and will restrict root growth. Learn more about soil mixes, amendments, and fertilizers here

Step 4: Water and Feed Consistently

Consistent watering and feeding are the foundation of a productive vegetable garden:

• Vegetables need regular, reliable watering. Inconsistent moisture leads to stressed plants and poor yields
• Always water the soil, not the leaves. Plant roots take in water, and wet foliage can invite disease. Water deeply so moisture reaches the roots. Use your fingers to check how far down the water has penetrated into the soil
• Containers dry out faster than garden beds and will need more frequent attention
• Morning is the best time to water. If your plants are struggling on a particularly hot afternoon, a second watering is fine. Just be sure to aim at the base of the plant and avoid the foliage, which can scorch in direct sun
• Feed with organic fertilizers throughout the season to keep your plants healthy and productive. Follow the package instructions for the product you choose

Step 5: Plant Flowers for Your Pollinators

A vegetable garden without pollinators is a garden that won’t reach its full potential. Attracting bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects to your garden is one of the best things you can do for your harvest. Some of our favourite pollinator-friendly flowers for the vegetable garden include marigold, calendula, nasturtium, borage, sunflowers and culinary lavender. As a bonus, most of these are edible, so they earn their space twice over.

It’s Time

Starting a vegetable garden is one of the most rewarding things you can do with an outdoor space. There’s a quiet satisfaction in growing something from seed or a seedling and bringing it to your own table. 

Start simple, grow what you love and don’t be afraid to learn as you go. 

The team at Eising Garden Centre is always happy to help you choose the right plants for your space and answer any questions along the way. This could be the season that changes the way you think about your garden!

Resources:

Why Use a Garden Journal?: https://eising.ca/why-use-a-garden-journal/

Square Foot Gardening: https://www.almanac.com/planning-square-foot-garden-grow-more-less-space

Fertilizers & Soil Amendments: https://eising.ca/fertilizers-soil-amendments/

Companion Planting: https://eising.ca/companion-planting-with-herbs/ and https://eising.ca/incorporating-vegetables-into-your-garden/

Optimizing the Gardening Season: https://eising.ca/optimizing-the-gardening-season/

No Dig Gardening Method: https://charlesdowding.co.uk/blogs/no-dig-resources/beginners-guide

Reading Plant Tags: https://eising.ca/full-sun-part-shade-what-do-plant-tags-actually-mean/

Growing Vegetables in Pots: https://eising.ca/planters-are-for-more-than-flowers/

By Ava Green ☀️

One of the most common reasons plants struggle comes down to light. Specifically, whether the spot you’ve chosen gives your plant the light conditions it actually needs.

The good news? Once you understand what the terms on a plant tag really mean, matching the right plant to the right spot becomes second nature. And when a plant is happy in its environment, it grows stronger, looks better, and is far less vulnerable to pests and disease because it simply isn’t under stress. 

Before You Plant Anything, Do This First

Light conditions in a garden can be surprisingly tricky to read unless you’re paying attention. A garden that feels sunny might not actually deliver the hours of direct light that certain plants require. A shady corner might get more sun than you think. 

So here’s your homework assignment, and it’s a very nice one. 

Go outside and sit for a while. Find the spot where you would like to plant and observe it for a few days in the summer. Track how many hours of direct sunlight that area receives, hour by hour. Jot it down on a piece of paper. Average it out over a few days for a reliable picture. 

Fair warning: this assignment may require a chaise lounge, a good book, and something cold to drink. 

Once you have this data, you’re ready to move forward! 

Decoding Light Terms

No more guessing at the garden centre! Here’s exactly what each term means. 

Full Sun

At least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Plants in this category are sun-lovers: most vegetables, lavender, roses and many annuals and perennials.

Part Sun

4 to 6 hours of sun including some afternoon sun. The hours don’t need to be consecutive; a few hours in the morning and a couple more in the afternoon. Not all of it needs to be intense, direct light.

Part Shade

Also 4 to 6 hours of sun, but with a preference for morning light rather than the stronger afternoon sun. These plants appreciate some protection from the harshest part of the day.

Full Shade

Fewer than 4 hours of direct sun per day. If direct sun hits these plants, morning sun is ideal. Plants that appreciate these conditions are woodland plants, hostas and ferns. 

Why Getting This Right Saves You Time and Money

A little observation before you plant is genuinely one of the most valuable things you can do as a gardener. It takes the guesswork out of every purchase and saves you from replacing plants that were never suited to that spot. Most importantly, it gives you a garden full of plants that actually thrive there.

The best gardens aren’t built on luck. They’re built on knowing your conditions and planting accordingly. Now that you’ve cracked the code on light, you’re already ahead of the game. 

Bonus - Signage at Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre!

You'll notice our signage has icons to help you best decide which plants are right for you and your situation!

• If you see a little paw print on our signs or pots, this means we're proud to say this plant is pet friendly! We love your little critters too!

• The number of raindrops on our signs indicates how much water this plant will need

• Signs with these icons indicate the plant naturally deters pests like deer and rabbits

By Ava Green

Is there anything sweeter than the scent of Lilacs in the spring? These beloved shrubs are remarkably easy to grow and will reward you with weeks of fragrant blooms for little or no effort. But a bit of attention can make a big difference, especially if you’ve noticed your blooms getting smaller or fewer with each passing year. 

To help your lilac put on its best show, keep these steps in mind:

• Plant in full sun, at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, in well-draining soil
• Water newer plants during prolonged periods of drought until established (the first 3 years)
• Feed your lilacs annually with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10, for example)
• Follow spacing instructions and prune yearly. Pruning is a very important step, and it’s well worth it.

Knowing When to Prune is Key

Timing is everything when it comes to pruning your lilacs. After the blooms fade, you have a two-week window to prune before the shrub sets its buds for next year's flowers. Yes, they set buds this year that will bloom next year! Pruning lilacs in the fall or the early spring risks cutting off all of the flower buds for the following year. Mark your calendar and prune promptly after flowering.

It also helps to understand how lilacs grow: Younger, thinner lilac stems produce more flowers. Older, thicker stems are more prone to disease and pests. Keeping this in mind will help with pruning decisions.

How To Prune Young Lilacs

If your lilac has been in the ground for less than three years, leave it alone; it doesn’t need pruning yet. Many young lilacs won’t bloom during those first few years.

After three years, once your shrub is established, begin by removing just one of the thickest, oldest stems down to the ground every 2 years. This gentle approach prevents the shrub from becoming overgrown while encouraging newer, flower-producing growth. 

How To Prune Older, Overgrown Lilacs

If your lilac has been neglected or grown out of control, you have two options:

Option 1: Gradual Rejuvenation

Begin by removing any damaged stems, as these invite pests that can harm the entire shrub. Next, remove only the largest, oldest stems by cutting them right down to the ground. The key is to remove no more than one-third of the living wood (dead stems don’t count toward that total). Leave the younger, thinner stems intact so your shrub can still bloom the following year. Repeat this process each spring for three years, and you’ll gradually restore the shrub to its full, flowering potential without sacrificing a single bloom season.

Option 2: Full Cutback

For a severely overgrown lilac that has been largely ignored, a complete cutback is often the most practical solution. Cut the entire shrub as close to the ground as possible, either in early spring or immediately after blooming. Yes, this breaks the general rule of never removing more than one-third of live wood, but lilacs are remarkably resilient and respond well to this kind of hard reset. By the end of summer, you will have healthy new stems of three to five feet tall. While the shrub won’t bloom for approximately three years after a full cutback, the long-term results are well worth the wait.

Deadheading Your Lilacs

Deadheading, or removing spent flower clusters after the blooms fade, is a simple task that’s separate from pruning, and can be done during that same two-week post-bloom window. When you trim off faded blooms, the plant redirects its energy from seed production toward building bigger, healthier buds for the next year. It takes only minutes and can make a meaningful difference in the size and abundance of next year’s flowers. 

A Note on Lawns and Lilacs

If your lilac grows near a lawn, be mindful of how much fertilizer you’re applying to the surrounding grass. Lawn fertilizers are typically high in nitrogen, which encourages lush leaf growth, but too much nitrogen reaching your lilac’s roots will suppress flower production.

Worthy Rewards

Lilacs are remarkably long-lived, often outlasting the gardens and even the homes they were planted beside. So whether you’re nursing a young shrub through its first few years or breathing new life into an old, overgrown beauty, the effort you put in now is an investment that will keep rewarding you, and perhaps generations after you. Every single spring!

How to Keep Your Hanging Basket as Gorgeous as the Day You Brought it Home, All Summer Long!

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Remember your Mother's Day hanging basket with its variety of colours, textures, and plant combinations? Maybe there was Verbena cascading elegantly with their colourful star like blossoms, double Begonias for the porch in spectacular shades of reds, pinks, and burgundies, and of course the vigorously growing Petunias and Geraniums, to name just a few. But as the Summer goes on, they just don’t seem to have that same stamina.

   To keep your hanging baskets in great shape and avoid the dry, wilted, bald spotted, leggy look that occurs to containers every August, one should follow these easy tips.

Watering

Plastic, fibre, and especially moss lined baskets dry out quickly. They should be checked twice daily and watered every day. Be sure to wet the moss sides as well.

   Try to maintain uniform soil moisture. When watering, fill the top of the container with pooling water until it ‘pees,’ and allow it to drip out of the bottom of the basket every time you apply water. Frequent severe wilting will impact upon the quality of the basket.

   At this time of year, one could take the basket down and soak it in a tub of water for 20 minutes to hydrate the entire root ball, once every week.

Deadheading

Remove spent flowers on a weekly basis (this is called deadheading) to prevent plants from going to seed. This will encourage more flower production. Part of the beauty of the mixed basket is its prolonged display, just like in your garden.

Check for Pests!

During your weekly deadheading, keep a watchful eye out for aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars. If you see any, try a quick spray of insecticidal soap to keep them from becoming an infestation.

🖱️ If you're noticing fungus gnats in your hanging baskets, find more on eradicating them here!

Pruning

Not every plant in the basket will be at its peak all season.

   Cutting plants back after a flush of bloom will tidy them up and prepare them for a fresh crop of flowers. Meanwhile, other varieties will begin putting on a show. This is especially true for Petunias.

    A good cut back of long, lanky branches will reap benefits.

Fertilizing

Daily watering means nutrients can leach out of the soil before the plants can absorb them. The baskets should have both slow release granular added to the growing media and a weekly feeding of 15-30-15 soluble fertilizer. Use a solution containing micronutrients, as plants like Petunias need extra iron.

Sheltering

It has been suggested, if possible, that during stretches of extreme heat, give your baskets a break and move them to a cooler, shaded spot to de-stress for a couple of days. This is also suggested when heading on vacation. Your flowers will rebound to their former beautiful selves!

We hope this long term hanging basket care guide helps you enjoy your purchase all summer long! For more information - and beautiful plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌸

By Ava Green

Usually, by the time February or March rolls around, I’m pretty tired of the health crazes like extreme diets and exercise plans I’ve been trying for the fifth year in a row. This year, let’s take a look at something that naturally supports our good health, both mental and physical. It’s time to stop and “smell the flowers,” so to speak.

Mental and Physical Health

Many gardeners already realize this, but studies are showing that simply seeing greenery can benefit our mental health. Whether it's a walk in the woods or a handful of houseplants, seeing green leaves makes a difference for humans! Research shows that it helps boost our mood and improve how we get along with people. Who doesn’t need a mood booster during cold, dark days? And getting along with people, well, the world just needs more of that, too, doesn’t it?

You may also already know that tending to plants reduces stress, but did you know that science is proving it? PubMed published a study stating:

"Interaction with indoor plants may reduce psychological and physiological stress by suppressing autonomic nervous system activity in young adults: a randomized crossover study."

This isn’t the common thinking about working outside in the garden increasing physical strength and stamina. It’s a study that examines our autonomic nervous system, the one responsible for automatic and essential bodily functions we don’t even think about, like breathing. The study compared participants performing two tasks: one on a computer and the other doing plant transplanting. The results suggest that interaction with plants indeed reduce stress without us even thinking about it! No task that requires willpower, just daily tending to plants like transplanting, watering, dusting, pruning, or turning the pots to get sun on the flipside.

So plants boost our mood, improve interactions with others and physically reduce our stress levels without us even trying. It’s no wonder we just feel better when we’re around plants.

Air Quality

Research also shows that indoor air pollution is often worse than outdoor air pollution. VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) from washing detergents, paint, furnishings, and building materials, as well as bacteria, fungal spores, and dust, negatively affect human health.

Fresh air can counter the impact of indoor pollutants, but often it’s too cold to open the windows in the middle of winter. When you can’t let fresh air into the house, indoor plants will help. We know that growing trees outdoors has a massive impact on air quality and the health of the planet, and inside our home, tropical plants contribute in the same way. The contribution of each type of plant varies, so having a variety is a very good idea.

What to Grow

Here’s a list of easy-to-grow, green indoor plants that Eising’s resident tropical plant expert, Courtney, and the UK’s Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) recommend:

Aglaonema ‘Silver Queen’ (Chinese evergreen ‘Silver Queen’)

Aspidistra elatior (common Aspidistra, Cast Iron plant)

Chamaedorea elegans (Parlour Palm)

Chamaedorea seifrizii (Bamboo Palm)

Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)

Crassula ovata (syn. Crassula portulacea) (Jade plant, Jade tree)

Dracaena fragrans ‘Janet Craig’ (Dragon Plant)

Dieffenbachia ‘Tropic Snow’ (v) (Dumb Cane)

Dracaena marginata (v) (Madagascar dragon tree)

Epipremnum aureum and ‘Marble Queen’

Ferns - many types

Ficus elastica (Rubber tree, Rubber plant)

Hedera helix (English ivy, common ivy)

Howea forsteriana (Flat Palm, Kentia palm)

Rhapis excelsa (Bamboo Palm, Lady Palm)

Sansevieria (Snake Plant) - many types

Spathiphyllum sp. (Peace Lily)

Syngonium podophyllum (Nephthytis)

Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant, fern arum)

Is there a downside to having houseplants? Yes, if you have small children or pets, be mindful of the plants that can be toxic if ingested (see resources listed below).

While many of us in Ontario focus on “nice” weather and getting outside to garden, it’s pretty clear that our indoor plants do much of the heavy lifting to improve our health through the cooler seasons. Even if you don’t have a “green thumb”, it’s worth giving tropical, indoor houseplants their well-deserved space in our homes, hospitals, offices, nursing homes, classrooms, restaurants…or any indoor space!

Resources:

PubMed study on indoor plants and their impact on human stress - https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4419447/

Sally Augustin, PhD, Environmental Psychologist - https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/blog/people-places-and-things/201802/benefits-of-the-indoor-plant

RHS - https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/houseplants/for-human-health

For a list of indoor plants and the VOCs they have the potential to reduce, PubMed review article by Dela Cruz et al., 2014 - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25056742/

PETAs list of plants that are safe for pets: https://www.peta.org/living/humane-home/animal-friendly-houseplants/?utm_source=PETA::Google&utm_medium=Ad&utm_campaign=0422::veg::PETA::Google::SEA-Vegan-Grant::::searchad&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=96533821&gbraid=0AAAAADu2DAt3SGF9vPRkHJqkNw-eZ6kEH&gclid=CjwKCAiAvaLLBhBFEiwAYCNTf9nyavbUnefHx0FaUekq4HZyXPrIwYhnJqgnu_g_TPea3nExhT-jOhoCqLUQAvD_BwE

RHS list of safest plants for children: https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/houseplants/houseplants-for-children

Adding Year-Round Interest to Your Garden

By Ava Green

Spring brings excitement and the hope of fresh beginnings, but also the harsh reality that our gardens can look a little…well…blah, in between seasons. Even when you have evergreens, well shaped trees, shrubs or perennials with “good bones” (strong framework or structure) a garden can look bare off season. This is when garden features and ornaments can really make a dramatic difference!

Create Year-Round Interest In Your Garden

Do you have a spot in the garden where plants struggle to grow? Or an area where you feel like your garden is missing something? 

Items like benches, patios, ornamental urns, decorative fencing, statues, a pond, gazing balls, birdhouses and birdbaths add beauty and function in every season. In Southern Ontario’s long shoulder seasons (early spring, late fall, and the longest of all - winter) these permanent elements help to make your garden look inviting all year.

Why Every Garden Benefits from a Focal Point

A garden filled with colourful annuals and perennials can be stunning, but without a focal point, it can feel visually overwhelming. A garden focal point like a bench, statement urn, a piece of statuary, or a water feature draws your attention, and creates a sense of purpose.

Focal points guide movement through the garden and help tell a story, leading visitors toward a destination. While naturalized gardens and wildflower areas don’t always require structure, for gardeners who prefer a more organized look, incorporating a focal point can create a sense of order and transform your space.

Add Contrast With Texture and Shape

Many gardeners naturally gravitate toward favourite plant forms. Tall, spiky perennials like coneflowers, salvia, and Black-eyed Susan are popular in Ontario gardens but they can feel repetitive when planted together.

Introducing contrast changes everything. A round birdbath nestled among upright perennials adds softness and contrast making it more visually interesting. In shady gardens dominated by hostas, a tall iron obelisk or trellis creates height and drama. Mixing plant textures with garden features like lighting instantly elevates beds and borders.

Express Your Personality!

Gardening is a creative process, and experimentation is part of the joy. Moving plants to find the right light or shelter often leads to surprising combinations and successes. Garden features allow you to express that creativity even further.

Statuary, ornaments, and structures, whether handcrafted or purchased, add personality and meaning. From whimsical accents to bold architectural elements, these features bring height, structure, and style to your garden in ways plants alone can’t.

More Than Just Flowers

Flowers bloom and fade with the seasons here in Southern Ontario. Garden features provide continuity, offering year-round interest, structure, and charm. With just a few additional elements, your garden can look beautiful in every season, not just when it’s in bloom.

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

As plant people, we’ve all experienced that moment when we realize the novelty phase of that plant we brought home from the garden centre has worn off. The plant isn’t standing quite as tall, the flowers aren’t as bold, and the leaves are unravelling smaller or not at all. What is this magic they perform in the greenhouse? Perhaps you’ve provided sufficient lighting and adequate watering; there’s just one thing that is often overlooked because dirt is dirt, isn’t it?

  97% percent of plant tissue is made up of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen pulled from the air and water, the remaining 3% is comprised of 16 other elements taken up from the soil. The quality of soil then is crucial to your plant’s health. Whether your plants are in pots or in ground, each soil type you could provide your plant offers something unique and may lack in another.

*Clay particles are even smaller than silt particles.

Resist the Urge to Slam Your Plant in Potting Soil

There’s bags and bags of rocks, sand, bark, manure, and moss on the shelves, yet the common buyer seems to always opt for potting mix. It’s fair; organic matter is usually great for plants and simple to use. However, most people don’t realize it’s merely an ingredient.

   Strictly using potting mix is like attempting to make a loaf of bread out of only flour. All those bags of other materials on the shelves are also components for a successful plant diet!

  Potting mix is a great base material, however, alone it presents risks of compacting, becoming waterlogged, can mold easily, and over time will become depleted of nutrients. Consider mixing the following ingredients into your pots, ground and raised beds to meet your plant’s required nutrients, pH level, and volume of moisture.

🖱️Use our Plant Finder to find some details on your plant! We try our best to keep this updated!

👍 Rule of Green Thumb: Plant roots can help you to determine the medium needed – thick, robust roots (i.e., yucca) typically enjoy chunkier materials, and smaller, delicate roots (i.e., begonias) enjoy finer materials.

Mulch and Bark Bites

• Mulch is the organic slow-release fertilizer, as it slowly decomposes, it lowers soil pH. However, may eventually compact soil once fully broken down.
• In the meantime, it creates shelves in the soil that create air pockets and prevent the soil from compacting. Mulch is a great short term medium for arid potted plants.
• If kept too wet, it can harbour fungus gnat larvae.
• Make sure when sourcing your mulch it doesn’t contain any black walnut.

🖱️ See more on mulching here. 

Sphagnum Peat Moss

• Peat moss is used to help retain moisture and lower pH in the soil given it is harvested from bogs.
• Retains nutrients very well.
• It is difficult to rehydrate once it loses moisture.

Coconut Coir

• Coco coir, much like peat moss is used to keep the soil moist and keep pH low, however it lasts longer and is possibly less invasive to harvest.

Sand

• Grains are relatively large and do not bind, allowing for excellent drainage depending on grade.
• Adds weight to top heavy plants.
• Has no ability to store minerals itself, however, pH can vary by its content of shells, minerals like silica, or fine organic matter.

Manure & Compost

• Source these organic by products locally and ensure they’re not too hot. These additions can significantly lower pH.
• Sheep manure is usually near free of weed seeds as sheep digest seeds better than cattle and horses!

Perlite

• Perlite is a volcanic byproduct (so it floats like pumice) that helps drainage in the soil and prevents compaction – vital in the case of starting seeds.
• If a rockier, well-draining medium is required for your plant, consider perlite.
• Perlite can expand holding trace amounts of water.
• Perlite has a neutral, slightly acidic pH.
• Make sure when sourcing perlite, that you are not being sold Styrofoam balls.

Vermiculite

• Vermiculite is a recycled mineral used similarly to perlite, and too has a neutral, slightly acidic pH.
• Expands with water content.
• Can contain amounts of potassium and magnesium (as well as good cation exchange capacity).
• Runs the potential risk of introducing asbestos into your soil.

Calcined Clay Materials

• Clay materials like recycled brick bits, pottery, or lecca are typically used for arid plants as it improves aeration and drainage.
• Can raise pH.
• Can retain some water.
• High cation exchange.
• Can also be used for starting robust cuttings when kept moist.  
• Probably not ideal for inground amendments.

Maintaining Your Plant’s Dietary Needs

Perhaps we’ve crafted the perfect soil type for your plant – your plant thanks you – but over time, we will end up in the same staling predicament. Why? Because with each thorough watering, we leech the soil of the provided nutrients. Best we use the plant-specific required fertilizer for your plant to prevent nutrient loss.

   Organic sources of fertilizer such as bonemeal, composts, and manures, along with the application of lime, will improve the physical condition of the soil in terms of water and element holding ability. Unfortunately, in many cases though, manures and lime alone cannot be depended upon to provide enough available nutrients in soils with low essential element reserves.

   Let’s talk about commercial fertilizers, which can help target your plant’s exact needs much like vitamins and supplements!

The Scoop on Fertilizers

Of the essential 16 elements your plant pulls from the soil, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the most critical for good plant growth. You’ll recognize the three numbers appearing on your commercial fertilizer labels known as the fertilizer analysis of the product, representing the percentage of each of the three "macronutrients" in the order of N, P & K.

Nitrogen (N) is necessary for green leafy or vegetative growth which is important in crops like corn, cabbage, and potatoes.

☝️ It is important to remember that you should not use a fertilizer which is high in nitrogen late in the summer on your perennials, as it may cause a boost of growth which will only freeze as the cold weather sets in. Also, too much nitrogen in the analysis could cause too much lush, leafy growth thus inhibiting the desired flowering aspect of a plant species.

Phosphorus (P) promotes the development of flowers, fruit and roots. Crops like tomatoes, cauliflower and garden flowers.

Potassium (K) boosts plant hardiness, stem strength, resistance to disease and drought which is important to all crops, but especially in potatoes, celery and rhubarb.

👍 Rule of Green Thumb: For foliage plants, provide them with shade and lots of nitrogen, and for flowering and fruiting plants, provide them with lots of sun and lots of phosphorus!

Amending Clay

Hello Haldimand and Eastern Norfolk!

   We’re presented with the challenge of compacted, often shallow and waterlogged clay, which proves difficult but not impossible.

   Clay becomes compacted and waterlogged as it is the smallest soil particle – smaller than a grain of sand, and even smaller than silt – with rough edges that allow it to interlock and bind. In this instance, roots cannot penetrate further into the soil, are susceptible to root rot, and air pockets are slim to none.

   This, however, can be fixed with the addition and renewal of the above materials.

  Mindful that you don’t create a watery bowl in the ground (score the edges the area being worked), you can add organic matter (i.e., manure, compost, and potting soil) for nutrients, as well as mulch, sand and perlite for aeration and drainage. Annual soil particle aggregation in clay soils increases air porosity (air pockets) and is accomplished by the incorporation of organic matter that breaks down to form humus.

🖱️ See more here for planting trees in clay. 

We hope this soil and fertilizer guide helps you provide all the vital nutrients to your beloved plants in ground and above ground! For more information - and soil – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌱