By Ava Green
Is there anything sweeter than the scent of Lilacs in the spring? These beloved shrubs are remarkably easy to grow and will reward you with weeks of fragrant blooms for little or no effort. But a bit of attention can make a big difference, especially if you’ve noticed your blooms getting smaller or fewer with each passing year.
To help your lilac put on its best show, keep these steps in mind:

Timing is everything when it comes to pruning your lilacs. After the blooms fade, you have a two-week window to prune before the shrub sets its buds for next year's flowers. Yes, they set buds this year that will bloom next year! Pruning lilacs in the fall or the early spring risks cutting off all of the flower buds for the following year. Mark your calendar and prune promptly after flowering.
It also helps to understand how lilacs grow: Younger, thinner lilac stems produce more flowers. Older, thicker stems are more prone to disease and pests. Keeping this in mind will help with pruning decisions.
If your lilac has been in the ground for less than three years, leave it alone; it doesn’t need pruning yet. Many young lilacs won’t bloom during those first few years.
After three years, once your shrub is established, begin by removing just one of the thickest, oldest stems down to the ground every 2 years. This gentle approach prevents the shrub from becoming overgrown while encouraging newer, flower-producing growth.
If your lilac has been neglected or grown out of control, you have two options:
Begin by removing any damaged stems, as these invite pests that can harm the entire shrub. Next, remove only the largest, oldest stems by cutting them right down to the ground. The key is to remove no more than one-third of the living wood (dead stems don’t count toward that total). Leave the younger, thinner stems intact so your shrub can still bloom the following year. Repeat this process each spring for three years, and you’ll gradually restore the shrub to its full, flowering potential without sacrificing a single bloom season.
For a severely overgrown lilac that has been largely ignored, a complete cutback is often the most practical solution. Cut the entire shrub as close to the ground as possible, either in early spring or immediately after blooming. Yes, this breaks the general rule of never removing more than one-third of live wood, but lilacs are remarkably resilient and respond well to this kind of hard reset. By the end of summer, you will have healthy new stems of three to five feet tall. While the shrub won’t bloom for approximately three years after a full cutback, the long-term results are well worth the wait.

Deadheading, or removing spent flower clusters after the blooms fade, is a simple task that’s separate from pruning, and can be done during that same two-week post-bloom window. When you trim off faded blooms, the plant redirects its energy from seed production toward building bigger, healthier buds for the next year. It takes only minutes and can make a meaningful difference in the size and abundance of next year’s flowers.
If your lilac grows near a lawn, be mindful of how much fertilizer you’re applying to the surrounding grass. Lawn fertilizers are typically high in nitrogen, which encourages lush leaf growth, but too much nitrogen reaching your lilac’s roots will suppress flower production.
Lilacs are remarkably long-lived, often outlasting the gardens and even the homes they were planted beside. So whether you’re nursing a young shrub through its first few years or breathing new life into an old, overgrown beauty, the effort you put in now is an investment that will keep rewarding you, and perhaps generations after you. Every single spring!
By Ava Green
There’s a truth we all learn over time: good quality makes a big difference. Not buying more, buying smarter.
But how do you hold on to great pieces and make them look fresh and current? Start by getting yourself the perfect pair of jeans for the season. Great jeans work wonders to update your look. The right cut, the right wash, the right fit. It’s the closest thing to a style superpower you can own.
To show you what we mean, we picked a pair of white Lois jeans from Sassyfras, and created four completely different looks.

There is something timeless about a black-and-white outfit. Timeless made current with a new jean style. The printed scarf ties it all together and adds just enough personality to keep it from feeling too minimal.
Tie the scarf loosely around your neck, or loop it through the handle of your bag to pull the colours together. White-on-white (sweater and jeans) works beautifully, and varying the textures (knit vs. denim) keeps it interesting.

Orange and white is one of summer’s most joyful combinations. This outfit shows that beautifully. Playful, casual, and sunny. Tying a sweater around your waist or resting on your shoulders adds a relaxed, effortless layer that’s handy when you need a little extra warmth.

This is the most polished of the four looks. A white blouse paired with a fine-striped blue jacket feels relaxed and also put together. This is the kind of outfit that works equally well for a casual lunch or an afternoon of errands. The multi-coloured scarf, which introduces a bit of pink and orange, pulls all the elements together beautifully and adds a little bit of playfulness. A blue bag grounds the colour palette.

This look is so much fun. A multi-coloured sweater or blouse in bright, happy shades paired with white jeans is bold without trying too hard. White keeps it cohesive while the top gets to be the star. The woven macrame handbag adds texture and an artisan quality that feels intentional and individual. This outfit says: I’m having fun. The baseball cap is the punctuation mark! Vibrant, creative and completely at ease.
Styled with intention and a little creativity, a single great piece, like our Lois jeans, can carry you through every mood and occasion. Wearing what brings you joy is always the right answer, and we have an inspiring selection at Sassyfras to make choosing easy. Stop by the boutique and see for yourself!
Sassyfras Boutique is located inside Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre.
By Ava Green
As soon as warm weather and sunshine arrive in Southern Ontario, it’s time to head to the garden centre and pick up all the plants we’ve been dreaming about all winter long! May 24th is generally the date we look forward to — the unofficial marker when frosty mornings are behind us and the promise of summer is ahead.
By now, cool-weather plants like cabbage, Brussels sprouts, peas, and lettuce should be well established in the vegetable garden. And for everything else, it’s go time!
TIP: Before you start planting, this is the ideal time to amend your soil. Top up your garden beds with fresh topsoil or enrich them with compost to improve soil health, add nutrients, and promote vigorous plant growth. Don’t forget to refresh the soil in your containers as well, with potting mix or compost.
When soil temperatures are consistently 60°F (15°C) or higher, it’s safe to plant all the warm-weather vegetable crops we’ve been waiting for! Plants that thrive in warmer weather include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini and corn.
At Eising Garden Centre, you’ll find vegetables in 6-packs, 4” pots, trellised patio containers, patio bowls and hanging baskets - while supplies last, of course!



Herbs also love warm weather, and tender varieties like basil are safe to plant once all danger of frost has passed. Whether you plant herbs directly into the ground or create a potted herb garden near the kitchen door, they’ll add fresh flavour to your meals all season long. A container of herbs also makes a wonderful gift when visiting friends and family for a summer BBQ.
While you’re in the vegetable and herb aisle, keep an eye out for everbearing strawberries in planters and containers of tropical fruits like lemons, limes, and oranges.
Winter-weary flower beds can be revived almost instantly with a burst of colourful annuals! If you’re looking for an immediate impact and blooms that last all summer long, annual flowers are the answer.



Whether you plant them in beds, containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets — or choose from one of our gorgeous pre-planted options — just add water and fertilizer, and you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant display that keeps on giving.
While perennials may not bloom all summer, many offer extended bloom periods, and by combining different varieties, you can create a succession of flowers that lasts for months. Perennials also provide essential greenery to anchor your garden and enhance the look of your flowering plants.



You can plant perennials from spring through fall, but getting them into the ground now gives them a strong start. From hostas and ornamental grasses to daisies and delphiniums, there’s a perennial for every style of garden — and the best part is, they’ll return each spring like dependable old friends.
Often called “the bones” of the garden, trees, shrubs, and climbing vines add essential structure, height, and seasonal interest. Planting them now allows you to design your garden layers thoughtfully, incorporating annuals and perennials around their base.



Spring is also the prime time to purchase and plant fruit trees and fruiting shrubs. At Eising, spring offers the best selection for starting your home orchard. Are you thinking of adding a few edible shrubs? Gooseberries, haskaps, hardy kiwi, rhubarb and raspberries are excellent choices.
Okay, it’s not a plant, but this is a reminder to add mulch to your garden beds or containers. After planting, adding a layer of mulch to your garden beds or containers helps retain soil moisture, reduces transplant shock, and suppresses weeds. Even if a few weeds manage to sneak through, mulch makes them easier to pull.
If you have a garden pond, spring is the perfect time to add water plants. Floating plants, such as water hyacinths and water lilies, help shade the pond’s surface, reducing algae blooms. Marginal or bog plants, such as water iris, papyrus, and cattails, also help keep the water healthy and clear by improving oxygen levels and providing habitats for beneficial wildlife.



May is one of the most anticipated and exciting months in the garden. Whether you’re dreaming of fresh vegetables, a lush landscape, or a colourful flower display, planting now sets the stage for a beautiful, bountiful season. Visit us at Eising Garden Centre to find everything you need — and let’s get growing!
By Ava Green
Do you have tiny flies buzzing around your home and have no idea where they came from? Before you can get rid of them, you need to know what you're dealing with. Most people assume they're fruit flies, but there's a good chance they're not.
There are three common culprits:

Every time you bring a plant indoors, whether it's brand new or returning after a summer outside, there's a very good chance it's carrying fungus gnat eggs in its soil. When you purchase bagged soil, it will often contain fungus gnat eggs as well. They're small, they're sneaky, and here's the most important thing to know: they multiply fast. Left unmanaged, a handful of gnats can turn into hundreds within weeks.
Fungus gnats love warm, moist conditions and organic material, like your potting soil. Adult gnats lay eggs in damp soil, which gives their larvae everything they need to develop.
The good news? Once you understand what they need to survive, stopping them is very easy and straightforward.
1. Quarantine any new or returning plants for 4 weeks. This single step prevents gnats from spreading to your other houseplants while you treat the soil.

2. Use yellow sticky traps. These inexpensive traps attract and catch adult gnats before they can lay more eggs. Place one directly into the soil near your plant. Putting a sticky trap in a planter, whether it’s a new plant or one you’ve had a while, is also a good way to monitor whether or not you have pests in your plants.
3. Let the top inch of soil dry out completely between waterings. Fungus gnats need moist soil to lay their eggs. Deny them that, and you deny them a future. To test whether the soil has dried out, poke one of your fingers in it about an inch to check for moisture.
4. Cover the soil surface with coarse sand or vermiculite. A layer of sharp, gritty material on top of the soil is uninviting to egg-laying adult gnats. Make sure to use coarse sand, fine sand won't do the trick.
5. Switch to bottom watering. This is the best watering method for a number of reasons, including discouraging fungus gnats. Fill a tub or sink one-quarter full and set your pot in it for about 30 minutes allowing water to be absorbed into the soil via the drainage hole in the pot. When the soil and roots absorb water from below, it keeps the top layer of soil, where gnats want to lay their eggs, dry and uninviting. Make sure the water level covers no more than one-third of the pot, not the entire pot.
6. Try Mosquito Dunks (the secret weapon most gardeners don't know about). These contain BTI, a naturally occurring bacterium that is harmless to humans, pets, and plants, but lethal to fungus gnat larvae. Simply follow the package instructions and water your plants as normal. Water activates mosquito dunks.
7. Water with diluted hydrogen peroxide once a week. Mix one part 3% hydrogen peroxide with four parts water (so ¼ cup peroxide to 1 cup water). Apply this solution once a week for three weeks, and let the soil surface dry out between each application. It kills larvae on contact. Don't overdo it though. Too much, too often can damage roots.
Fungus gnats aren't just plant pests, they're also drawn to fruit, especially bananas. The stem end of a bunch of bananas is a prime spot for gnat eggs. The fix is simple: as soon as you get home from the grocery store, rinse your bananas under lukewarm running water and give the stem a gentle scrub with a soft brush. It takes about a minute and can prevent a whole new infestation before it starts.
Fungus gnats feel impossible to eliminate because most people only address the adults they can see and not the larvae multiplying in damp soil. Use these tips in combination for the best results, and remember: even a fresh bag of potting soil can carry eggs, so treat new soil with BTI or a hydrogen peroxide solution before use.
Stick with it for a few weeks and your home and your plants will be gnat-free.
Eising Garden Centre is turning 60, and we want to celebrate this incredible milestone with the community that helped us grow!
Saturday, April 25th
10am to 2pm
Right here at the Garden Centre!
We’re pulling out all the stops to make sure this is a day to remember. Bring the kids, grab a friend, and enjoy a full afternoon of festivities:
Come hungry! We’ve invited some local favorites to keep you fueled up:
To celebrate 60 years, we’re giving away a $600 Eising Gift Card to one lucky winner! Just imagine the garden transformation you could pull off with that.
How to Enter: Fill out a ballot at the event on April 25th. The Draw: We will be drawing the winner at 12:30 PM. Important Note: You must be present at the time of the draw to win, so make sure you’re nearby when the clock strikes 12:30!
Can’t make it on the 25th? Don't worry—we’re spreading the love all spring long. From April 6th to June 8th, we are giving away 60 gift cards worth $60 each! Every week, we will be drawing 6 winners. To get your name in the hat, simply make a purchase at the garden centre. Your name will be entered into that specific week’s draw, and we’ll contact the winners directly.
Thank you for sixty wonderful years of gardening, community, and growth. We can't wait to see you on April 25th!

How to Keep Your Hanging Basket as Gorgeous as the Day You Brought it Home, All Summer Long!
By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer
Remember your Mother's Day hanging basket with its variety of colours, textures, and plant combinations? Maybe there was Verbena cascading elegantly with their colourful star like blossoms, double Begonias for the porch in spectacular shades of reds, pinks, and burgundies, and of course the vigorously growing Petunias and Geraniums, to name just a few. But as the Summer goes on, they just don’t seem to have that same stamina.
To keep your hanging baskets in great shape and avoid the dry, wilted, bald spotted, leggy look that occurs to containers every August, one should follow these easy tips.
Plastic, fibre, and especially moss lined baskets dry out quickly. They should be checked twice daily and watered every day. Be sure to wet the moss sides as well.
Try to maintain uniform soil moisture. When watering, fill the top of the container with pooling water until it ‘pees,’ and allow it to drip out of the bottom of the basket every time you apply water. Frequent severe wilting will impact upon the quality of the basket.
At this time of year, one could take the basket down and soak it in a tub of water for 20 minutes to hydrate the entire root ball, once every week.

Remove spent flowers on a weekly basis (this is called deadheading) to prevent plants from going to seed. This will encourage more flower production. Part of the beauty of the mixed basket is its prolonged display, just like in your garden.
During your weekly deadheading, keep a watchful eye out for aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars. If you see any, try a quick spray of insecticidal soap to keep them from becoming an infestation.
🖱️ If you're noticing fungus gnats in your hanging baskets, find more on eradicating them here!
Not every plant in the basket will be at its peak all season.
Cutting plants back after a flush of bloom will tidy them up and prepare them for a fresh crop of flowers. Meanwhile, other varieties will begin putting on a show. This is especially true for Petunias.
A good cut back of long, lanky branches will reap benefits.
Daily watering means nutrients can leach out of the soil before the plants can absorb them. The baskets should have both slow release granular added to the growing media and a weekly feeding of 15-30-15 soluble fertilizer. Use a solution containing micronutrients, as plants like Petunias need extra iron.
It has been suggested, if possible, that during stretches of extreme heat, give your baskets a break and move them to a cooler, shaded spot to de-stress for a couple of days. This is also suggested when heading on vacation. Your flowers will rebound to their former beautiful selves!
We hope this long term hanging basket care guide helps you enjoy your purchase all summer long! For more information - and beautiful plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌸
By Ava Green
Usually, by the time February or March rolls around, I’m pretty tired of the health crazes like extreme diets and exercise plans I’ve been trying for the fifth year in a row. This year, let’s take a look at something that naturally supports our good health, both mental and physical. It’s time to stop and “smell the flowers,” so to speak.
Many gardeners already realize this, but studies are showing that simply seeing greenery can benefit our mental health. Whether it's a walk in the woods or a handful of houseplants, seeing green leaves makes a difference for humans! Research shows that it helps boost our mood and improve how we get along with people. Who doesn’t need a mood booster during cold, dark days? And getting along with people, well, the world just needs more of that, too, doesn’t it?
You may also already know that tending to plants reduces stress, but did you know that science is proving it? PubMed published a study stating:
"Interaction with indoor plants may reduce psychological and physiological stress by suppressing autonomic nervous system activity in young adults: a randomized crossover study."

This isn’t the common thinking about working outside in the garden increasing physical strength and stamina. It’s a study that examines our autonomic nervous system, the one responsible for automatic and essential bodily functions we don’t even think about, like breathing. The study compared participants performing two tasks: one on a computer and the other doing plant transplanting. The results suggest that interaction with plants indeed reduce stress without us even thinking about it! No task that requires willpower, just daily tending to plants like transplanting, watering, dusting, pruning, or turning the pots to get sun on the flipside.
So plants boost our mood, improve interactions with others and physically reduce our stress levels without us even trying. It’s no wonder we just feel better when we’re around plants.

Research also shows that indoor air pollution is often worse than outdoor air pollution. VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) from washing detergents, paint, furnishings, and building materials, as well as bacteria, fungal spores, and dust, negatively affect human health.
Fresh air can counter the impact of indoor pollutants, but often it’s too cold to open the windows in the middle of winter. When you can’t let fresh air into the house, indoor plants will help. We know that growing trees outdoors has a massive impact on air quality and the health of the planet, and inside our home, tropical plants contribute in the same way. The contribution of each type of plant varies, so having a variety is a very good idea.

Here’s a list of easy-to-grow, green indoor plants that Eising’s resident tropical plant expert, Courtney, and the UK’s Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) recommend:
Aglaonema ‘Silver Queen’ (Chinese evergreen ‘Silver Queen’)
Aspidistra elatior (common Aspidistra, Cast Iron plant)
Chamaedorea elegans (Parlour Palm)
Chamaedorea seifrizii (Bamboo Palm)
Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)
Crassula ovata (syn. Crassula portulacea) (Jade plant, Jade tree)
Dracaena fragrans ‘Janet Craig’ (Dragon Plant)
Dieffenbachia ‘Tropic Snow’ (v) (Dumb Cane)
Dracaena marginata (v) (Madagascar dragon tree)
Epipremnum aureum and ‘Marble Queen’
Ferns - many types
Ficus elastica (Rubber tree, Rubber plant)
Hedera helix (English ivy, common ivy)
Howea forsteriana (Flat Palm, Kentia palm)
Rhapis excelsa (Bamboo Palm, Lady Palm)
Sansevieria (Snake Plant) - many types
Spathiphyllum sp. (Peace Lily)
Syngonium podophyllum (Nephthytis)
Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant, fern arum)
Is there a downside to having houseplants? Yes, if you have small children or pets, be mindful of the plants that can be toxic if ingested (see resources listed below).

While many of us in Ontario focus on “nice” weather and getting outside to garden, it’s pretty clear that our indoor plants do much of the heavy lifting to improve our health through the cooler seasons. Even if you don’t have a “green thumb”, it’s worth giving tropical, indoor houseplants their well-deserved space in our homes, hospitals, offices, nursing homes, classrooms, restaurants…or any indoor space!
PubMed study on indoor plants and their impact on human stress - https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4419447/
Sally Augustin, PhD, Environmental Psychologist - https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/blog/people-places-and-things/201802/benefits-of-the-indoor-plant
RHS - https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/houseplants/for-human-health
For a list of indoor plants and the VOCs they have the potential to reduce, PubMed review article by Dela Cruz et al., 2014 - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25056742/
PETAs list of plants that are safe for pets: https://www.peta.org/living/humane-home/animal-friendly-houseplants/?utm_source=PETA::Google&utm_medium=Ad&utm_campaign=0422::veg::PETA::Google::SEA-Vegan-Grant::::searchad&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=96533821&gbraid=0AAAAADu2DAt3SGF9vPRkHJqkNw-eZ6kEH&gclid=CjwKCAiAvaLLBhBFEiwAYCNTf9nyavbUnefHx0FaUekq4HZyXPrIwYhnJqgnu_g_TPea3nExhT-jOhoCqLUQAvD_BwE
RHS list of safest plants for children: https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/houseplants/houseplants-for-children
Adding Year-Round Interest to Your Garden
By Ava Green
Spring brings excitement and the hope of fresh beginnings, but also the harsh reality that our gardens can look a little…well…blah, in between seasons. Even when you have evergreens, well shaped trees, shrubs or perennials with “good bones” (strong framework or structure) a garden can look bare off season. This is when garden features and ornaments can really make a dramatic difference!

Do you have a spot in the garden where plants struggle to grow? Or an area where you feel like your garden is missing something?
Items like benches, patios, ornamental urns, decorative fencing, statues, a pond, gazing balls, birdhouses and birdbaths add beauty and function in every season. In Southern Ontario’s long shoulder seasons (early spring, late fall, and the longest of all - winter) these permanent elements help to make your garden look inviting all year.

A garden filled with colourful annuals and perennials can be stunning, but without a focal point, it can feel visually overwhelming. A garden focal point like a bench, statement urn, a piece of statuary, or a water feature draws your attention, and creates a sense of purpose.
Focal points guide movement through the garden and help tell a story, leading visitors toward a destination. While naturalized gardens and wildflower areas don’t always require structure, for gardeners who prefer a more organized look, incorporating a focal point can create a sense of order and transform your space.

Many gardeners naturally gravitate toward favourite plant forms. Tall, spiky perennials like coneflowers, salvia, and Black-eyed Susan are popular in Ontario gardens but they can feel repetitive when planted together.
Introducing contrast changes everything. A round birdbath nestled among upright perennials adds softness and contrast making it more visually interesting. In shady gardens dominated by hostas, a tall iron obelisk or trellis creates height and drama. Mixing plant textures with garden features like lighting instantly elevates beds and borders.

Gardening is a creative process, and experimentation is part of the joy. Moving plants to find the right light or shelter often leads to surprising combinations and successes. Garden features allow you to express that creativity even further.
Statuary, ornaments, and structures, whether handcrafted or purchased, add personality and meaning. From whimsical accents to bold architectural elements, these features bring height, structure, and style to your garden in ways plants alone can’t.
Flowers bloom and fade with the seasons here in Southern Ontario. Garden features provide continuity, offering year-round interest, structure, and charm. With just a few additional elements, your garden can look beautiful in every season, not just when it’s in bloom.

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer
Got cabin fever? Perhaps you’re going a little stir crazy looking out the window and seeing the drab, limited pallete in your seemingly lifeless outdoor space. It’s important to embrace this time of year as the composting and cleansing part of Earth’s cycle before spring’s renewal – but that doesn’t mean we should be trapped inside forever. Here’s a winter/early spring list of activities, divided by indoor (Part 1) and outdoor (Part 2), for the gardener and yard keeper.
☝️ First, let’s quickly note the important activity happening under the snow – and how your actions now will affect the summer garden!
Before heading out to attend to these jobs have a look at the ground beneath you.
If it is frozen hard you are good to go but avoid treading on the crowns of perennials.
If it has been warm and sunny and the soil is warm and dry, consider laying down a few planks to walk on.
If the soil is soggy then postpone those tasks until it has dried. What we are trying to protect is not your shoes but the soil itself.
Ideally, soil is comprised of 50% solid materials such as minerals and organic matter in various stages of decomposition, and 50% open air space. Water from rain or melting snow enters the soil, displacing the air. Wet soil is easier to squish down and that process is called compaction.
While walking on wet soil would not seem to have much effect, it occurs within the depth where annuals, perennials and lawn grasses have their roots. Compaction makes it harder for roots to grow through the soil. Roots can grow stronger to push aside the soil particles, but tougher roots are less effective at drawing in nutrients and moisture. Removing air spaces makes it more difficult for water to percolate down so compacted soils remain wetter. Plants don’t grow as well and are more prone to insect damage.
The freeze/thaw cycles of fall, spring, and winter heave the soil relieving compaction and aerating the soil; a good way to start the growing season. Preventing further damage to the soil is relatively simple. Stay off it when it’s wet. Later, consider using pavers or pathways in heavily travelled areas of the lawn. Aerate the lawn with a machine that removes small plugs of soil and redistributes them over the surface. In beds and borders, add compost and use a thick mulch layer to absorb some of the pressure.
And stay off it when it’s wet.
With this in mind, we can appreciate Earth’s renewal capabilities, as well as prevent destroying our yards and gardens!

Yup, it’s bleak out there. It’s time we make that herbal tea and turn our attention to creating a lively, green indoor environment, even if just to get us through the winter. Here’s a to-do list for trapped gardeners and plant enthusiasts to make the most of our wintry sentence.



Suit up!




We hope these suggestions help you stay green this spring and winter! For more gardening activities, see our other blogs here. We hope to see you this spring (March 5th, 2026) at Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre! 🌱❄️
By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer
This is a question we hear daily during the spring, summer and, especially, the fall. Unfortunately, many homeowners do not see any adverse changes occurring in their trees until they look dead, or nearly so.

The discolouration and dropping of evergreen needles are a natural phenomenon and the main cause of needle loss in the wild. Evergreen needles, as the name implies, survive for a lengthy period, and in fact usually have a life span of five to seven years on healthy trees, however, they must be shed. The needles first start to die in the central and lower part of the tree, and this change progresses upward over time. You will see spruce trees naturally lose needles as they get older.
Age is an important factor here in causing needle loss and branch death, however, in landscape plantings of coniferous evergreen trees, pests and disease are likely the major cause of needle loss and dying branches. If there is a sudden fall of a very large number of brown needles and leaves, this signals to us that there is something drastically wrong!
This can happen as early as a year or two after a tree is planted. This is especially true in Haldimand and Eastern Norfolk County where heavy clay soils predominate. Spruce trees, for example, do not grow well on clay soils.

Here are some of the more common problems, apart from natural aging that afflict spruce trees, the probable causes and ways of treating the problem.
☝️Unfortunately, these majestic trees, the most popular evergreen planted on our residential properties, incur many other pest and disease problems not dealt with here.
Likely causes:
1. Internal fungus disease (called Cytospora or white blister canker). This creates cracks in the bark causing resin to drip and leave grey-white dripping streaks on the bark. The fungus also causes open wounds or blisters on tops of branches. These wounds can be greyish white or greyish blue in colour, eventually turning brown and black.
2. Feeding by spider mites which leave fine, poorly formed webs in the needles, especially near the ends of the twigs.
Best treatments:
1. Properly aerate and fertilize tree out to a distance of half its height in all directions, where possible.
2. Pressure wash thoroughly once a month with water only, all needles and branches as high as possible on the tree. Water pressure dislodges spider mites.
Likely cause:
Spruce bud worms which develop in the needle cluster that arises from a bud.
Best treatment:
Spray the biological pesticide, BTK (eg. Dipel), onto the entire tree when feeding is first noticed in early spring, to kill the young caterpillars.
Likely causes:
1. Spruce bud scales, ball-shaped insects, initially light brown in colour but eventually turning black. Often two to five scale balls cluster in one location on the twig; honey dew excretions from scales become infected with sooty mold.
2. An overhanging shade tree such as oak, maple or elm may have heavily infested leaves with aphids whose honey dew secretions become infected with sooty mold.
Best treatment:
1. Pressure wash tree using water only to dislodge young scales (called nymphs) in May and early June while they are in the crawling stage. Scale nymphs fall to the ground where they cease to be a threat to the tree.
2. Spray shade tree in early spring with insecticidal soap to control aphids. The problems of other coniferous evergreens such as pines, firs, cedars and junipers can usually be treated with correct diagnosis, though some diseases are lethal.
We hope these help you troubleshoot common issues often found in evergreen trees! For more information - and evergreens – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌲