By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Spring and early fall are generally the best times for planting trees. It has been found that newly planted trees thrive when exposed to moderate temperatures and rainfall, as they need time to root and acclimatize before the onset of intense heat and dryness of summer or the freezing temperatures of winter.

  Now whilst planting different types of trees differ in detail, all trees eventually end up in a hole. But remember not just any old hole will do.

Let’s Get Digging!

1. Some trees are buried too deeply, causing the tree roots to decline in health and condition. We have a whole other article dedicated to transplanting depth if you wish to read more, but here’s the just of it: Poor tree health results in reduced growth rate, atypical leaf size and colour, increased disease susceptibility, and reduced cold hardiness. Always make sure that the root collar flare is visible after planting; if settling occurs, reset the tree to the proper depth.

👉 Note: Many times, homeowners build a raised bed garden around an existing tree in the yard (thus burying the root collar flare) only to find within a year or two their favourite tree now is in decline. Don’t bury that root collar flare!

2. As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole should be at least three times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bareroot trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.

3. When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid 'glazing'. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the centre bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.

4. The backfill soil should be a mixture of composted manure and topsoil. The mixture should then be placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the ball or slightly lower to allow for some settling. Be careful not to compress the backfill soil as this may prevent water from reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball.

Jobs well done by the Eising landscaping team!

Standing On Its Own Roots

Young trees should be able to support their own weight when they are transplanted. If the tree is unable to do so, try thinning out the upper branches to reduce wind resistance. If that is not enough, you may have to stake a tree.

Watering Your New Tree

Newly planted trees should be watered at the time of planting. In addition, during the first growing season, they should be watered at least once a week in the absence of a good rain.

👉 Remember: Regular deep soakings are better than frequent light wettings.

   We hope these tips can help you encourage the longevity of your new tree! For more information - and trees - visit our Trees & Shrubs section at Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre. We hope to see you soon!

Clematis, the climbing plant that looks far too elegant and exotic to be growing in Ontario! Not only beautiful, Clematis gets along well with climbing roses (this is a gorgeous combination), trees, shrubs, and perennials. Different varieties of Clematis can also be grown together and provide a succession of blooms!

The variety of shapes, sizes, and colours available make Clematis a very desirable plant. Ranging from delicate, white, bell-shaped blossoms to dreamy, pastel rosettes, or sumptuous, deep purple double-flowers, and everything in between.

A stroll through the garden centre is a must to peruse Clematis labels and choose the ones that are most appealing to you. The varieties that we have will all suit our southern Ontario climate. 

While the blooms vary widely, planting Clematis is straightforward. A few simple considerations when planting will help avoid root stress or Clematis Wilt, which are common problems when the location is wrong and the soil isn’t enriched. Here are some simple steps to ensure success!

Location, location, location!

Clematis like at least 6 hours of sunlight a day, but not an excessively hot location. Some shade in the late afternoon will extend the length of time that a bloom looks good.

Provide Support

A trellis, archway, arbor, or even a shrub or tree, all make excellent supports for your clematis. Install a well-secured support system first, to avoid damaging your clematis roots.

Soil is the Key

Fertile, well-drained soil is essential to successfully growing Clematis. These vines are heavy feeders and require nutrients to produce their show-stopping flowers. Prepare your soil by mixing in plenty of compost or well-rotted manure.

Prepare the Planting Site

Dig a hole that’s as deep as it is wide. Use the plant as your guide and dig approximately 13 cm or 5 inches deeper than the root ball. Add some of the soil that’s been amended with compost, then check to see that your plant is sitting at the right height - the top of the root ball should be even with the soil around it. Once the root ball is sitting at the right height, backfill the rest of the hole with more amended soil and gently firm the soil around the plant with your hands.

Watering

Water deeply after planting, and keep the soil and root ball moist, not water-logged, throughout the season. Be sure to water at soil level, not with an overhead sprinkler which can scorch leaves and flowers.

Mulch

Mulch the soil around your plant to help suppress weeds and maintain moisture. Compost, organic shredded bark, or straw works well.

Fertilizer

Fertilize regularly throughout the season, or apply a slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of the season to maximize the blooming potential of your Clematis. For more information about fertilizer, see this article about caring for annuals and perennials.

Pruning

Pruning instructions are often included on your plant label as requirements vary from variety to variety. If in doubt, there are many growers who recommend pruning early blooming Clematis a little, after they bloom, to maintain the desired shape of the plant. For later blooming types, cut the vines right back to 45-60 cm in early spring.

Following these steps will provide a healthy environment for your Clematis to thrive. But be careful, Clematis are like potato chips - bet you can’t have just one!