By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

As plant people, we’ve all experienced that moment when we realize the novelty phase of that plant we brought home from the garden centre has worn off. The plant isn’t standing quite as tall, the flowers aren’t as bold, and the leaves are unravelling smaller or not at all. What is this magic they perform in the greenhouse? Perhaps you’ve provided sufficient lighting and adequate watering; there’s just one thing that is often overlooked because dirt is dirt, isn’t it?

  97% percent of plant tissue is made up of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen pulled from the air and water, the remaining 3% is comprised of 16 other elements taken up from the soil. The quality of soil then is crucial to your plant’s health. Whether your plants are in pots or in ground, each soil type you could provide your plant offers something unique and may lack in another.

*Clay particles are even smaller than silt particles.

Resist the Urge to Slam Your Plant in Potting Soil

There’s bags and bags of rocks, sand, bark, manure, and moss on the shelves, yet the common buyer seems to always opt for potting mix. It’s fair; organic matter is usually great for plants and simple to use. However, most people don’t realize it’s merely an ingredient.

   Strictly using potting mix is like attempting to make a loaf of bread out of only flour. All those bags of other materials on the shelves are also components for a successful plant diet!

  Potting mix is a great base material, however, alone it presents risks of compacting, becoming waterlogged, can mold easily, and over time will become depleted of nutrients. Consider mixing the following ingredients into your pots, ground and raised beds to meet your plant’s required nutrients, pH level, and volume of moisture.

🖱️Use our Plant Finder to find some details on your plant! We try our best to keep this updated!

👍 Rule of Green Thumb: Plant roots can help you to determine the medium needed – thick, robust roots (i.e., yucca) typically enjoy chunkier materials, and smaller, delicate roots (i.e., begonias) enjoy finer materials.

Mulch and Bark Bites

• Mulch is the organic slow-release fertilizer, as it slowly decomposes, it lowers soil pH. However, may eventually compact soil once fully broken down.
• In the meantime, it creates shelves in the soil that create air pockets and prevent the soil from compacting. Mulch is a great short term medium for arid potted plants.
• If kept too wet, it can harbour fungus gnat larvae.
• Make sure when sourcing your mulch it doesn’t contain any black walnut.

🖱️ See more on mulching here. 

Sphagnum Peat Moss

• Peat moss is used to help retain moisture and lower pH in the soil given it is harvested from bogs.
• Retains nutrients very well.
• It is difficult to rehydrate once it loses moisture.

Coconut Coir

• Coco coir, much like peat moss is used to keep the soil moist and keep pH low, however it lasts longer and is possibly less invasive to harvest.

Sand

• Grains are relatively large and do not bind, allowing for excellent drainage depending on grade.
• Adds weight to top heavy plants.
• Has no ability to store minerals itself, however, pH can vary by its content of shells, minerals like silica, or fine organic matter.

Manure & Compost

• Source these organic by products locally and ensure they’re not too hot. These additions can significantly lower pH.
• Sheep manure is usually near free of weed seeds as sheep digest seeds better than cattle and horses!

Perlite

• Perlite is a volcanic byproduct (so it floats like pumice) that helps drainage in the soil and prevents compaction – vital in the case of starting seeds.
• If a rockier, well-draining medium is required for your plant, consider perlite.
• Perlite can expand holding trace amounts of water.
• Perlite has a neutral, slightly acidic pH.
• Make sure when sourcing perlite, that you are not being sold Styrofoam balls.

Vermiculite

• Vermiculite is a recycled mineral used similarly to perlite, and too has a neutral, slightly acidic pH.
• Expands with water content.
• Can contain amounts of potassium and magnesium (as well as good cation exchange capacity).
• Runs the potential risk of introducing asbestos into your soil.

Calcined Clay Materials

• Clay materials like recycled brick bits, pottery, or lecca are typically used for arid plants as it improves aeration and drainage.
• Can raise pH.
• Can retain some water.
• High cation exchange.
• Can also be used for starting robust cuttings when kept moist.  
• Probably not ideal for inground amendments.

Maintaining Your Plant’s Dietary Needs

Perhaps we’ve crafted the perfect soil type for your plant – your plant thanks you – but over time, we will end up in the same staling predicament. Why? Because with each thorough watering, we leech the soil of the provided nutrients. Best we use the plant-specific required fertilizer for your plant to prevent nutrient loss.

   Organic sources of fertilizer such as bonemeal, composts, and manures, along with the application of lime, will improve the physical condition of the soil in terms of water and element holding ability. Unfortunately, in many cases though, manures and lime alone cannot be depended upon to provide enough available nutrients in soils with low essential element reserves.

   Let’s talk about commercial fertilizers, which can help target your plant’s exact needs much like vitamins and supplements!

The Scoop on Fertilizers

Of the essential 16 elements your plant pulls from the soil, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the most critical for good plant growth. You’ll recognize the three numbers appearing on your commercial fertilizer labels known as the fertilizer analysis of the product, representing the percentage of each of the three "macronutrients" in the order of N, P & K.

Nitrogen (N) is necessary for green leafy or vegetative growth which is important in crops like corn, cabbage, and potatoes.

☝️ It is important to remember that you should not use a fertilizer which is high in nitrogen late in the summer on your perennials, as it may cause a boost of growth which will only freeze as the cold weather sets in. Also, too much nitrogen in the analysis could cause too much lush, leafy growth thus inhibiting the desired flowering aspect of a plant species.

Phosphorus (P) promotes the development of flowers, fruit and roots. Crops like tomatoes, cauliflower and garden flowers.

Potassium (K) boosts plant hardiness, stem strength, resistance to disease and drought which is important to all crops, but especially in potatoes, celery and rhubarb.

👍 Rule of Green Thumb: For foliage plants, provide them with shade and lots of nitrogen, and for flowering and fruiting plants, provide them with lots of sun and lots of phosphorus!

Amending Clay

Hello Haldimand and Eastern Norfolk!

   We’re presented with the challenge of compacted, often shallow and waterlogged clay, which proves difficult but not impossible.

   Clay becomes compacted and waterlogged as it is the smallest soil particle – smaller than a grain of sand, and even smaller than silt – with rough edges that allow it to interlock and bind. In this instance, roots cannot penetrate further into the soil, are susceptible to root rot, and air pockets are slim to none.

   This, however, can be fixed with the addition and renewal of the above materials.

  Mindful that you don’t create a watery bowl in the ground (score the edges the area being worked), you can add organic matter (i.e., manure, compost, and potting soil) for nutrients, as well as mulch, sand and perlite for aeration and drainage. Annual soil particle aggregation in clay soils increases air porosity (air pockets) and is accomplished by the incorporation of organic matter that breaks down to form humus.

🖱️ See more here for planting trees in clay. 

We hope this soil and fertilizer guide helps you provide all the vital nutrients to your beloved plants in ground and above ground! For more information - and soil – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌱

How To Keep Your Orchid Alive

By Ava Green

Orchids have become very popular gifts, and a great hobby for indoor plant enthusiasts who discover the wide range of colours and shapes available. Orchids are also loved for their long-lasting and exotic blooms.

While some may choose to only enjoy these tropical plants as long as they’re blooming, orchid-lovers look forward to nurturing the plant and encouraging it to flower regularly. It may be a little daunting at first, but once orchids grace you with their stunningly beautiful blossoms, you will find that a little bit of care is very worthwhile!

It’s estimated that there are 25,000 different species of orchids and over 100,000 hybrids! The ones you’ll find most readily in Ontario stores are Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, because it’s fairly easy to grow. Phalaenopsis are the best choice for beginners.

Other orchids you may find easily are Cattleyas (Corsage Orchids), Cymbidiums (Boat Orchids) and Dendrobium orchids.

While all of these may be orchids, they don’t necessarily require the same care, so it’s a good idea to check the tag for the type you have and its specific care requirements. The following is a general guide to light, water, fertilizer, and growing medium for the most commonly found orchids, but it does not apply to all breeds.

Light and Air

For most orchids, light, and lots of it, is the general rule. Place your plants within 3 feet of a window (not to the side) in the sun. South, east, and west-facing windows are all fine for maximizing the light your plant receives.

Orchids also enjoy a breeze or circulating air in your house. They do not like temperature extremes, though 15 to 20 degrees Celsius is safe. Keep in mind that the more warmth and air movement there is, the more often you will need to water your orchid.

Water

A general rule is to use water that is not hard and has not been softened with salt. Salt will kill an orchid. Rainwater, reverse osmosis, or distilled water are good choices. Chlorinated water is not an issue for orchids - high sodium levels are.

The biggest issue many people have is either over-watering or underwatering their orchids. Here is the method we recommend:

Every 5-7 days, place the pot in a container or the sink, then fill it with enough water to cover the top of the pot. Be careful not to let water collect in the crook at the base of the leaves, as standing water will rot the leaves and the plant. Once the plant’s growing medium is thoroughly soaked, remove it from the water and allow the pot to fully drain in the sink before placing it back in its saucer. 

We prefer using a container of water rather than the sink, so the remaining water can be used to water other plants.

Here’s the best watering advice we can give you: look at the overall health of both the plant AND its root system. Full, plump leaves and vibrant, green roots indicate that your plant is getting enough moisture. Puckered leaves and a silver sheen on the roots indicate insufficient water. Mushy, brown leaves and roots are signs of rot caused by too much water.

You may hear of another watering method that involves using ice cubes, but it’s controversial and not widely recommended. To quote the American Orchid Society, “Ice is for cocktails, not orchids. Never use ice on tropical plants to water them.”

“Soil” and Nutrients

Most orchids naturally grow high up in trees, where their roots cling to bark and absorb moisture from the air. At home, we try to mimic those conditions, which is why orchids are typically planted in chunky mediums like bark, coconut husk, charcoal, or perlite rather than traditional soil. While many of the roots stay inside the pot, it’s completely normal for some to grow up and over the edge.

These “escapee” roots might look a little wild, but don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with your orchid. In fact, those aerial roots are a sign that the plant is healthy and doing exactly what orchids do in nature.

It’s worth noting that not all orchids grow the same way. Many, like Dendrobiums, are epiphytic (growing on trees) or lithophytic (growing on rocks), though some orchid varieties are terrestrial and grow in the ground. The good news is that the growing medium your orchid comes in is chosen specifically for that variety, so you can trust it’s in the right environment.

The bark that your orchid is planted in will slowly break down and become mushy. It’s a very good idea to repot your plant every two years.

It’s generally recommended to feed most orchids, and bloom time dictates which fertilizer to use and how often to feed. Begin by using a water-soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer, mixing it at ¼ the amount recommended for other houseplants. Apply this solution every 2 weeks in the summer and every 3 weeks in the winter.

“The orchid, with its many forms, is a reminder that life is full of surprises.” — Leonardo da Vinci.

Lastly, here’s an orchid fun fact: While we have been talking about tropical orchids in this article, there are also orchids that grow right here in Ontario! That’s right, there are over 50 species in this province, including the much-loved Pink Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule).  

Resources for more detailed and specific information: 

Toronto Master Gardeners - https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/growing-orchids-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/

Canadian Orchid Congress - https://canadianorchidcongress.ca/basics/growing-orchids/

American Orchid Society - https://www.aos.org/orchid-care/indoor-orchid-care

Ontario Wildflowers - https://ontariowildflowers.com/main/group.php?id=18

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Bearing in mind that a lawn is a very unnatural situation in that we are trying to sustain a large area with very little plant diversity (monoculture), in the eye of the homeowner, lawns may remain an important part of the domestic landscape! As well as in very necessary areas like tile beds, paths, roadsides, and recreational areas, lawns provide a background that enhances the overall effect of the home and the various gardens and landscape features.

   From nematodes to dog pee spots, the following tips will help you to maintain a healthy lawn naturally.

Mowing

Of all the cultural practices, mowing exerts the greatest influence on growth, development, and ease of management. By keeping the grass blade height between 6 & 8 cm (2.5 to 3 inches) high you'll be able to produce a more competitive lawn against young and germinating weeds.

Grass Species Selection

Seed mixtures with Titanium Tall Fescue have shown to be more drought, disease, and insect resistant than many other lawn grasses such as the traditional Kentucky bluegrasses. Tall fescue roots penetrate deeper into the soil providing better regrowth and wear tolerance, making it ideal for heavy foot traffic areas and recreational areas.

Carried by Eising Garden Centre

Time of Sowing

The best time to establish a lawn from seed is late summer and early fall (mid-August to mid-September) in southern Ontario. During this period, soil moisture and temperature conditions are optimal for germination and establishment. There is also less competition from germinating weeds in the fall. Make sure that seeding is done early in the fall so that the grass is well established before winter. The plants are then well rooted and more drought- and heat-tolerant the following summer.

Seed the shady areas in the fall for best results. Trees will have shed their leaves by then, so plenty of light is available for the new growth. The grass also gets off to an early start in the spring before the trees leaf out.

Spring seeding should be done as soon as the ground can be worked. Slow, irregular germination may result if the seed is sown when the soil is too cold and damp. (Soil Temp. around 15oC is ideal and there is also strong competition from germinating weeds during the spring. When practical, wait until weed seeds germinate, work the land to kill them and then sow the grass seed. ) If you choose to plant your new lawn in the spring, begin just as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, preferably mid-April to mid-May. This will give your new grass time to get well established before the hot, dry weather sets in.

Fall is often a better time to start your lawn, from mid-August to the end of September. Your seedbed is less likely to dry out at this time of year, and the grass should be well established before winter.

Watering

Your typical lawn needs about 2.5 cm (one inch) of water per week through either rain or irrigation. If irrigating, water in the morning as more will be absorbed as opposed to being lost to evaporation in the sun and the warmer temperatures later in the day.

Fertilization

Lawns require relatively large amounts of nitrogen-based fertilizers which should be applied several times during the growing season. Since lawn clippings are high in nutrients, especially nitrogen, much of your initial nitrogen fertilizer investment may be recycled back into your lawn! A fertilizer with a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratio of 4:1:2 (e.g., 20-5-10) is normally the best in most situations. It should be noted though, that a soil nutrient test can accurately determine the actual needs of your lawn including lime if the pH is too low.

(Lawn Liming Rate: 20-50 lbs/1000 ft2)

Carried by Eising Garden Centre

Corn Gluten

An application of this product early in the spring and then later on in the summer will inhibit the growth of weeds from germinating seeds especially the annual problem, crabgrass. Established weeds though have to be dug out by hand.

Dog Pee Spots

There is a misconception that the pH level of your dog’s pee is leaving those unsightly spots in your lawn, when it is in fact the high concentration of nitrogen and salts being introduced into the soil. To prevent this, should you see your four-legged friend raising its leg or popping a squat, give that spot a good watering to dilute the minerals. In addition to this, ensuring your dog is well hydrated will help to water down their urine. However, your lawn may already have several severe yellow and bald patches. You may opt to resod or reseed the area, but the soil is what’s affected. Before giving up altogether and adding a scree to the affected area, Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre offers a fertilizer to help balance and remedy your dog pee spots!

Carried by Eising Garden Centre

Thatch Control

Thatch is a layer of dead leaves, stems and roots that intermingle with the living plants above the soil surface. A one-inch layer of thatch is desirable as it has a cushioning effect against compaction and an insulating effect in cold weather. De-thatching a lawn is an extreme measure that may be considered if the drainage is poor. Lawn aeration may be required as well as the lawn and the soil below must establish a drainage pattern.

Nematodes - Aid Against Japanese Beetles and More!

If the Japanese Beetle has been destroying certain plants in your landscape plantings or their grubs have been feeding on the roots of your lawn, causing unsightly brown patches maybe it's time to use Mother Nature's secret weapon: Beneficial Nematodes.

   Beneficial Nematodes are a natural way to control Japanese Beetle grubs and over some 200 species other pest insects in your lawn while having no detrimental effect on Ladybugs, Earthworms, and other helpful beneficial insects.

   Nematodes are naturally occurring microscopic worms of the soil and are used to control soil pest insects in their larvae or grub stages while not posing any health or environmental risks to humans or animals. The beneficial Nematodes enter the JB larva via mouth, anus, or respiratory openings and begins to feed. This causes specific bacteria to emerge from the intestinal tract of the Nematode, spreading inside the insect and multiply very rapidly; the bacteria convert host tissue into products which can easily be taken up by the Nematodes, ceasing the soil dwelling pest insect within a few days. Beneficial Nematodes are effective against not only the larval or grub stage of Japanese Beetles, but the Northern Masked Chafer, European Chafer, Rose Chafer, Crane Fly larvae (Leather Jackets), Oriental Beetles, and June Beetles.

   The nematode product you purchase should contain two genera: Steinernema and Heterorhabditis for better grub control.

   Beneficial Nematodes are very easy to use. Mix with water and spray on the lawn with a water-can, irrigation system, or a hose-end sprayer. Most homeowners spray at a rate of 10 million nematodes per 600 square feet on grub damaged lawns. After an application, keep the soil moist during the first two weeks for the nematodes to get established.

   In Ontario, there are two windows of opportunity to apply Beneficial Nematodes to be effective against the JB grub stage.

   The first application should be in May as the soil warms up and then again at the end of August or the first two weeks of September as the JB are hatching into their first larval stage.

   We hope these tips help to ensure your healthiest lawn! For more information – and lawncare products - visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌾

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Let’s get in depth about planting trees too deeply!

Sometimes homeowners find that their newly planted trees start showing signs of stress and become unthrifty a little while after planting, and soon their investment is altogether lost when the plant just dies. Often when we’re asked to inspect a tree in poor health, we know what to suspect.

   Although not readily apparent at the time of installation, the long-term effects of improperly placing the root system in the planting hole are substantial. The poor tree health that results manifests itself as reduced growth rate, atypical leaf size and colour, and increased disease susceptibility. Trees in really poor condition exhibit decay, cracks, and excessive deadwood. Sometimes trees show signs of stress within the first year of planting, but it usually takes several years for the problem to rear its ugly head.

   The most common reason? Many trees are simply buried too deeply causing the tree roots to decline in health, as they cannot get the vital oxygen from the air that they require to live.

Putting Down Roots

The width of the hole your tree will call home should be at least two times the diameter of the root ball, container, or in the case of bare root trees, the spread of the roots. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.

   For tree roots to grow vigorously, they require water, oxygen, and warmth. An oxygen level of 25% of the soil volume is considered good for root development.

   At a 5% oxygen level, growth stops, and at 2%, roots decline and die.

   Since tree roots naturally grow quite shallowly in the soil profile, buried root systems are unable to obtain adequate soil oxygen and water. As a survival response, trees work to get roots closer to the soil surface where there is a more reliable source of both. The energy that a newly transplanted tree should use to overcome normal transplant stress is instead used just to survive.

   The tree expends its energy either by forcing its roots to grow upward or by creating totally new roots from dormant buds on the buried trunk, wasting all its prior growth. Some plants can survive being buried too deeply and live normal lives after developing a functional root system, others begin a long, slow decline of health resulting in either premature death or sudden failure during wind or ice storms. Let’s not risk it!

How Do I Know How Deep to Plant?

If you want your new tree to not only survive, but thrive, it needs the best start possible; it is very important that the root collar flare be visible after planting. The root collar is the part of a plant where the stem and root system meet, "flaring" where it transitions between the stem wood and the roots. Always make sure that the root collar flare is visible after planting. If settling occurs, reset the tree to the proper depth.

👉 Note: The backfilling soil should be a mixture of the original soil with composted manure or topsoil and bone meal.

But I Did Leave the Root Collar Visible… When I First Planted It

It has been observed that many times after a perfect tree planting, the homeowner then decides to build a raised-bed garden around the tree (thus burying the root collar flare – we’ve found root collar flares buried to 24 inches in mulch!) only to find that within a year or two, their young tree is dead or dying.

   A common practice, often referred to as ‘volcano mulching,’ also contributes to this problem. In addition to subjecting trees to the problems associated with planting too deeply, heat from the composting mulch can literally cook a tree's trunk.

So, What is ‘Planting Proud’ Then?

   The transplanting rules are amended if planting in the heavier clay soils where the practice of planting your new trees "proud" is advised. Planting proud essentially means that the root ball is left higher out of the ground level, producing a hilled effect. The soil that is normally used for back-filling is used to help to create a mound. Planting your trees this way in poorly draining clay soils prevents the ground water from collecting in an otherwise deep hole and drowning the roots of your new planting.

   But, as a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown, and the soil level shouldn’t rise after planting. Two to three inches of wood chips is the optimum depth to mulch - and keep it an inch or two away from the trunk. If it is really desired to have the tree as a focal point in this newly built garden, then possibly a 3 foot well could be made around the tree to keep the root collar flare open to the air.

   So, remember to give your tree a strong start and long life by not planting too deeply, but by leaving that root collar flare exposed! We hope these tips can help you encourage the longevity of your new tree. For more information - and trees - visit our Trees & Shrubs section at Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre. We hope to see you soon!

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

If you can’t wait for Mother Nature’s next great colour show, the time is now (mid September) to get rolling on those early spring flowering bulbs! Even though you can start planting in October or early November, buying bulbs now is advantageous as the selection at your local garden centre is at their best. Being the very first to bloom during the last dreary days of winter, bulbs announce that spring is returning once more, and as you think about the colourful show of tulips and daffodils next year, remember all spring’s groundwork begins now!

   Your bulbs may be planted in your lawn, rock beds, at the foot of trees and bushes, in annual or perennial flower beds, or even in flower stands and pots. Combining the emerging fresh colors and textures of bulbs with the established foliage creates a harmonious relationship opportune for a complimenting or contrasting garden-scape. With a bit of planning and creative selection you can easily extend the joy of having spring flowering bulbs in your garden from a few weeks to several months, furthermore, planting bulbs amongst perennials offers that the new growth of the perennials will hide the fading foliage of the bulbs once they have finished flowering! Not long after the fading of the bulbs most perennials themselves will bloom, smoothly extending the sequence of flowering plants for you to enjoy.

Read on for all there is to know about planting bulbs!

Buying Your Bulbs:

When buying, look for nice, plump, firm, bulbs. Avoid those with scars or that feel spongy to the touch. The general rule is the larger the bulb the bigger the plant. If you're buying daffodils, look for bulbs that have two or more "noses" as you will get extra flowers for free!

   To have a good display of colour in your garden, right from March to the end of June. Be sure to check the blooming times on the packages and get a variety of early, mid and late-blooming spring bulbs.

👉 Tip: To extend the season, plant some bulbs in places where the sun beats down in early spring and some in cooler, shady areas of the garden allowing them to emerge in later spring.

Planting Your Bulbs:

When planting, the soil must be warm enough under the surface to stimulate a little root growth prior to the winter freeze. Winter chilling is necessary to break the flower bud dormancy (vernalization) to have our bulbs produce blooms in the spring (see below how to force bulbs if you’re reading this in the spring).

   Remember to plant your bulbs with the pointed end up! If it doesn't seem to have a pointed end, look for the flatter side and evidence of roots, which is the end that goes down. If you still can't be sure, plant the bulb on its side and it will figure out the proper direction by itself!

   The rule of thumb is to plant the bulb two or three times as deep as the bulb is tall. The depth is to the base of the bulb, not the top. Typically, 8 inches (20 cm) for big bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and hyacinths and 5 inches (13 cm) for small bulbs like grape hyacinths and crocus. Plant in well-drained soil, cover up, water well and wait for spring.

   In a wide hole, place bulbs - so they aren't touching - in threes, fives, or sevens per hole for the most natural look. You can throw a handful of bonemeal in the planting hole and mix it lightly with the soil, this will give your bulbs a good boost for the best bloom. Water to the depth of the hole.

   Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs require a long period of cool temperatures to undergo the biochemical process that allows them to flower. So, in the fall, get them in the ground ideally six weeks before hard freezes to give them the time they need to develop strong roots.

Fertilizing Bulbs:

   Bulbs contain the nutrients they need to bloom their first year, but a fertilizing program will keep plants healthy and ward off diseases and pests. Compost and manure are two good organic fertilizers that not only enrich the soil but ensure a good soil structure for bulbs. Additionally, organic supplements can be used to add nutritional balance. Compound mineral fertilizers can also be applied, however, check the label to see if fertilizing is appropriate for your bulbs and the best time of year to do so. Top-dressing with fertilizers like 9-9-6 slow release or either 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 soluble fertilizers are examples.

   Once a bed of spring flowering bulbs are established, the process of naturalizing occurs which simply means that a bulb flowers again after the first year and starts producing more bulbs on their own. However, they will need your help to get the food they require to recharge and regenerate for the next season's bloom.

Some Helpful Tips:

1. Squirrels enjoy the taste of tulip bulbs if they are easily accessible but not so with daffodil bulbs; interplanting the two together and/or mulching the garden will help protect them.
2. Resist the urge to tidy up fading foliage or mow over it as the plants require about six weeks to build up reserves for the next season.
3. Deadhead the tulips as the formation of seeds will sap the energy from the bulb. Daffodils & other bulbs do not require this action.

Forcing Bulbs:

Now if you can't wait for spring to smell the fragrant hyacinths, or you missed the fall planting, why not try your hand at bulb forcing?

   All you have to do is plant any extra bulbs in a pot with a drainage hole. Choose a pot that is at least twice as deep as the bulbs to allow for proper root growth. Fill the pot half full of soilless potting mix. Then place as many bulbs as possible in the pot, without letting them touch. For a thick show, layer more than one kind of bulb in the same pot; place larger bulbs on the bottom as they will grow around the smaller ones. A six inch-wide pot holds up to six tulips, three narcissus (daffodils), or 15 minor bulbs, such as crocuses or grape hyacinths.

   Cover the bulbs with potting mix, leaving their tips showing. Water the bulbs thoroughly. Label with name and date; loosely cover pot with a paper bag. Place in cool (1-7 degrees Celsius or 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit), dark place for chilling such as an unheated attic, basement, or attached garage or in a 12 inch-deep trench covered in a tarp.

   Check moisture in pot periodically keeping the soil damp but not wet. When chilling is complete, you'll see roots poking out of the bottom of the pot and green sprouts emerging at the bulb tips. It's time to move the potted bulbs into a warm room.

Chilling and Blooming Times:

• Daffodils: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Tulips: 10-16 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Crocus: 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Grape hyacinth (Muscari): 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Iris reticulata: 13-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Snowdrop (Galanthus): 15 weeks of chilling; 2 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Hyacinth: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.

We wish you all the best with your bulb planting this autumn! For more information - and bulbs - stop by Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre this fall!

By: Ava Green

Spring is the time of year known for new beginnings, and it’s also a very busy season in the garden as we hurry to get everything planted for the summer growing season here in Southern Ontario. But, did you know that fall is also an ideal time to get planting? 

Similar to spring conditions, the cooler temperatures and more frequent rainfall make it easier for new plants to transition. This also decreases transplant stress. There’s time for roots to become established, and by springtime, you’ll be enjoying your plants instead of being busy planting them!

Don’t wait too long, though! At Eising Greenhouses, we recommend planting perennials, trees and shrubs before Thanksgiving weekend to give your new plants a little time to settle in before a hard frost arrives. A hard frost, or freeze, is when the temperature dips below zero for an extended period of time, killing tender plants.

What to Plant in Fall

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Tulips, Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocus, Fritillaria and Alliums are just some of the bulbs that need to be planted in the fall in order to enjoy their flowers in the spring. Tulips especially appreciate being planted in cooler weather, but all of these bulbs require a cold period of about 12 weeks in order to grow in the spring. Many bulbs can be planted right up until the ground freezes. But why wait?!

👉 TIPS: While Tulips can be tasty and tempting for squirrels, rabbits and deer, many bulbs like Alliums, Frittilaria and Daffodils are not so delectable. Tamping down the soil after planting your bulbs makes it more difficult for critters to sniff them out. Laying some chicken wire over the area can also help deter from your bulbs becoming a meal for a critter.

Be sure to choose an area to plant your bulbs in that does not stay wet so the bulbs don’t rot.

Garlic

While some folks choose to plant garlic in the early spring, many people choose to plant it in the fall. Why not get started now? When you plant your garlic in autumn, you will have a crop that’s ready for harvest next summer.

Plant, Divide, and Transplant Perennials

Yes, you can still plant perennial flowers in the fall! Whether you’re purchasing new plants or moving plants around, autumn is a great time of year to do it.

It’s also a great time to divide and transplant spring and summer blooming perennials. Why divide your plants? It’s a great way to revitalize the plant and also to create new plants.

Whether you’re planting, dividing or transplanting perennials, it’s best to do it 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost so that they have time to become established in the soil. Perennial plants will be available for sale at Eising Greenhouses until Thanksgiving weekend, so don’t delay too much!

Trees and Shrubs

Container-grown or burlap-wrapped trees and shrubs can be planted as long as you can get a shovel in the ground! However, it’s a good idea to give them a few weeks in your garden before it freezes if you can.

It’s especially nice to see what a tree or shrub will look like in the fall before you plant it.

Peonies

Autumn is the best time to plant and establish roots so your peony is ready to bloom in spring! Planting them 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost will help your plant become established before cold weather descends.

👉 TIP: Be sure to add mulch to trees, shrubs and perennials after planting. But keep the mulch away from the trunks or stems. It’s never a good idea to put decaying plant material right up against a living plant!

Come in and take a look at what’s available, then enjoy the cool fall weather for planting!

Resources: If you’re new to dividing perennials, here’s a handy helper - A Guide to Dividing Perennials by the Toronto Master Gardeners

While many gardeners in Southern Ontario follow the popular planting date of May 24th, when we’re usually safe from frost, you may be surprised to know that April is not too early for certain plants!

Once the ground has thawed and is workable, there’s plenty you can start growing. In Zones 6a-6b, this usually happens around four weeks before May 24th. While frost is still a possibility, many cold-tolerant plants not only survive a light frost but thrive in cooler weather. To check if the soil is ready, simply dig up a handful and squeeze it. If it sticks together, it’s too wet to work with—wait a few more days for it to dry out. Once the soil is ready, it’s time to plant those cool-weather crops!

Cool Weather Vegetables

Radishes: Radishes are fast-growing and perfect for planting in April because they love cooler weather. Sow them directly from seed.

Peas: April is the perfect time to plant peas outdoors as soon as the soil is workable. Soak pea seeds in water for 8-10 hours before planting them to help germination.

Lettuce, Spinach, Arugula, Asian Greens (Tatsoi, Mizuna, Pak Choi and Leaf Mustard) : It’s best to sow seeds for leafy greens or plant seedlings early in the spring as they will grow quickly in cool weather. Plant more seeds or seedlings every 10-14 days for a succession of greens until hotter temperatures make them bolt (go to seed) and become bitter.

Potatoes: Seed potatoes can be planted in mid to late April as soon as the soil is workable.

Onions: Plant onion sets or seedlings that have already been started in early spring and enjoy a harvest in late summer or fall.

Carrots: Plant carrot seeds in April, and they will be ready for harvest later in the spring or early summer. They take a little longer to grow, but planting early gives you a head start. You will enjoy carrots all summer long by planting more seeds a few weeks later.

Tip: It’s a good idea to keep some frost protection like row cover handy for lettuce, peas and spinach just in case the temperatures dip below zero.

Bonus: Many garden pests, like earwigs and slugs, are still overwintering in April and won’t feast on your tender plants.

Cold-Tolerant Flowers

Pansies: Add a pot of Pansies to cheer up a front porch, and it instantly feels like spring! Plants can go into a sunny spot in the ground when temperatures reach 7-21 celsius and are regularly staying above freezing.

Violas: These cool-weather flowers can withstand light frosts and are perfect for containers or for planting in garden beds

Gladiolas: Even though the weather is still cool, this resilient summer-blooming bulb can be planted in a sunny area of the garden in April. 

Bonus: Pansies and Violas also love cool weather in the fall.

Perennials, Trees and Shrubs

Two to three weeks before the threat of frost has passed, many potted perennials, shrubs and trees, either dormant or with leaves, can be planted. (If you’re not purchasing from us, be sure to check whether the plants were grown outdoors or acclimated to cooler temperatures and ensure they’re hardy enough for Southern Ontario.)

While perennials, trees, and shrubs can be planted throughout spring, summer, or fall, the combination of warming soil and increased rainfall in spring creates the perfect conditions for successful transplanting.

Come into Eising Garden Centre to see the many seeds and plants available for you to add to your garden in April!

Additional Resource: Landscape Ontario provides an excellent online Tree Planting Guide.