By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

If you can’t wait for Mother Nature’s next great colour show, the time is now (mid September) to get rolling on those early spring flowering bulbs! Even though you can start planting in October or early November, buying bulbs now is advantageous as the selection at your local garden centre is at their best. Being the very first to bloom during the last dreary days of winter, bulbs announce that spring is returning once more, and as you think about the colourful show of tulips and daffodils next year, remember all spring’s groundwork begins now!

   Your bulbs may be planted in your lawn, rock beds, at the foot of trees and bushes, in annual or perennial flower beds, or even in flower stands and pots. Combining the emerging fresh colors and textures of bulbs with the established foliage creates a harmonious relationship opportune for a complimenting or contrasting garden-scape. With a bit of planning and creative selection you can easily extend the joy of having spring flowering bulbs in your garden from a few weeks to several months, furthermore, planting bulbs amongst perennials offers that the new growth of the perennials will hide the fading foliage of the bulbs once they have finished flowering! Not long after the fading of the bulbs most perennials themselves will bloom, smoothly extending the sequence of flowering plants for you to enjoy.

Read on for all there is to know about planting bulbs!

Buying Your Bulbs:

When buying, look for nice, plump, firm, bulbs. Avoid those with scars or that feel spongy to the touch. The general rule is the larger the bulb the bigger the plant. If you're buying daffodils, look for bulbs that have two or more "noses" as you will get extra flowers for free!

   To have a good display of colour in your garden, right from March to the end of June. Be sure to check the blooming times on the packages and get a variety of early, mid and late-blooming spring bulbs.

👉 Tip: To extend the season, plant some bulbs in places where the sun beats down in early spring and some in cooler, shady areas of the garden allowing them to emerge in later spring.

Planting Your Bulbs:

When planting, the soil must be warm enough under the surface to stimulate a little root growth prior to the winter freeze. Winter chilling is necessary to break the flower bud dormancy (vernalization) to have our bulbs produce blooms in the spring (see below how to force bulbs if you’re reading this in the spring).

   Remember to plant your bulbs with the pointed end up! If it doesn't seem to have a pointed end, look for the flatter side and evidence of roots, which is the end that goes down. If you still can't be sure, plant the bulb on its side and it will figure out the proper direction by itself!

   The rule of thumb is to plant the bulb two or three times as deep as the bulb is tall. The depth is to the base of the bulb, not the top. Typically, 8 inches (20 cm) for big bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and hyacinths and 5 inches (13 cm) for small bulbs like grape hyacinths and crocus. Plant in well-drained soil, cover up, water well and wait for spring.

   In a wide hole, place bulbs - so they aren't touching - in threes, fives, or sevens per hole for the most natural look. You can throw a handful of bonemeal in the planting hole and mix it lightly with the soil, this will give your bulbs a good boost for the best bloom. Water to the depth of the hole.

   Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs require a long period of cool temperatures to undergo the biochemical process that allows them to flower. So, in the fall, get them in the ground ideally six weeks before hard freezes to give them the time they need to develop strong roots.

Fertilizing Bulbs:

   Bulbs contain the nutrients they need to bloom their first year, but a fertilizing program will keep plants healthy and ward off diseases and pests. Compost and manure are two good organic fertilizers that not only enrich the soil but ensure a good soil structure for bulbs. Additionally, organic supplements can be used to add nutritional balance. Compound mineral fertilizers can also be applied, however, check the label to see if fertilizing is appropriate for your bulbs and the best time of year to do so. Top-dressing with fertilizers like 9-9-6 slow release or either 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 soluble fertilizers are examples.

   Once a bed of spring flowering bulbs are established, the process of naturalizing occurs which simply means that a bulb flowers again after the first year and starts producing more bulbs on their own. However, they will need your help to get the food they require to recharge and regenerate for the next season's bloom.

Some Helpful Tips:

1. Squirrels enjoy the taste of tulip bulbs if they are easily accessible but not so with daffodil bulbs; interplanting the two together and/or mulching the garden will help protect them.
2. Resist the urge to tidy up fading foliage or mow over it as the plants require about six weeks to build up reserves for the next season.
3. Deadhead the tulips as the formation of seeds will sap the energy from the bulb. Daffodils & other bulbs do not require this action.

Forcing Bulbs:

Now if you can't wait for spring to smell the fragrant hyacinths, or you missed the fall planting, why not try your hand at bulb forcing?

   All you have to do is plant any extra bulbs in a pot with a drainage hole. Choose a pot that is at least twice as deep as the bulbs to allow for proper root growth. Fill the pot half full of soilless potting mix. Then place as many bulbs as possible in the pot, without letting them touch. For a thick show, layer more than one kind of bulb in the same pot; place larger bulbs on the bottom as they will grow around the smaller ones. A six inch-wide pot holds up to six tulips, three narcissus (daffodils), or 15 minor bulbs, such as crocuses or grape hyacinths.

   Cover the bulbs with potting mix, leaving their tips showing. Water the bulbs thoroughly. Label with name and date; loosely cover pot with a paper bag. Place in cool (1-7 degrees Celsius or 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit), dark place for chilling such as an unheated attic, basement, or attached garage or in a 12 inch-deep trench covered in a tarp.

   Check moisture in pot periodically keeping the soil damp but not wet. When chilling is complete, you'll see roots poking out of the bottom of the pot and green sprouts emerging at the bulb tips. It's time to move the potted bulbs into a warm room.

Chilling and Blooming Times:

• Daffodils: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Tulips: 10-16 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Crocus: 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Grape hyacinth (Muscari): 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Iris reticulata: 13-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Snowdrop (Galanthus): 15 weeks of chilling; 2 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Hyacinth: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.

We wish you all the best with your bulb planting this autumn! For more information - and bulbs - stop by Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre this fall!

Now that autumn is officially here, we’re closing in on the best time to plant fall bulbs! Even though spring is months away, planting bulbs while the soil is still warm sets up the garden for a beautiful floral display as soon as the snow melts. These are our favourite fall bulbs to plant for spring in Simcoe!

Crocus

Crocuses are a classic staple that blossom clusters of delicate-looking blooms in the springtime. The crocus “bulb” is called a corm, and they perform best if planted early in the fall. Corms should be planted with the pointed end up, 2-4” below ground in full sun to partial shade. The ideal planting location is an area of the garden with some wind shelter. Corms should be spaced 2-4” apart in neutral soil with excellent drainage. Water after planting to set the soil.

Allium

While related to onions and garlic, alliums won’t have the same kind of aromatic effect on your garden. Instead, these astounding, globe-shaped blooms will repel rodents—and attract stares! Alliums are definitely a feature plant, so choose a spot in the garden that will allow these statement flowers to steal the spotlight. When planting allium bulbs in fall, choose an area with full-sun exposure and well-draining soil. Alliums are not picky about pH levels. Space them 12-14” apart and plant 6” deep with the pointed end facing up. Water well after planting.

Peony

Peonies are stunning, long-lived plants that come in a wide variety of colour and shapes; from delicate single blooms to romantic “bombs” of petals. Herbaceous varieties grow from bulb-like “tubers” that do best when planted in September or October. When planting peony bulbs in fall, make sure to choose a spot with lots of sun (at least a half-day of exposure) with room for the plant to spread as it matures. Before planting, work plenty of organic matter and any soil amendments needed to end up with humus-rich, well-draining soil. Plant the bulbs 2” deep with the “eyes” facing upward. Space them apart 3-4 feet to allow for plenty of airflow. Give your peonies a good drink of water immediately after planting.

Tulips

One of the most famous spring bulbs, tulips are some of the first flowers to greet you in the springtime with their assortment of pastel tones. Before planting tulips in fall, test the soil’s pH. Tulips prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil. Plant bulbs with the pointed end facing up, 8” deep and spaced 4-6” apart. Ensure the soil has excellent drainage, and mix in a little compost, peat moss, or bulb food into the topsoil to keep them fed. Water deeply after planting.

Daffodil

Daffodils are another springtime staple in Simcoe. Their sunny-yellow, trumpet-shaped flowers make charming additions to any landscape. When planting daffodil bulbs in fall, choose a location with full, intense sun exposure. Daffodils bulbs are quite resistant to cold and can be planted until the first frost. Plant bulbs 6-7” deep with the pointed end facing up, and space them 3-4” apart. Water well after planting.

Gladiolus

Gladiolus, also known as “glads,” grow into tall stalks of head-turning, colourful flowers in every colour of the rainbow. They also make incredible cut flowers. Glads need an area of the garden with little to no competition, as they require a lot of soil resources to grow their biggest and brightest! When planting gladiolus bulbs in fall, choose a spot with full sun and sandy loam soil. Glads aren’t too particular about soil pH, but they are very sensitive to poor drainage. Plant them 2-6” deep and 5” apart. Apply a slow-release fertilizer at the time of planting and water deeply to finish.

While this may seem like a short list, each one of these spectacular bulb species come in a vast assortment of different varieties. Visit our garden centre in Simcoe to browse our entire selection—we’ll have fall bulbs for sale until it’s time to ring in the holidays!