By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer
Bearing in mind that a lawn is a very unnatural situation in that we are trying to sustain a large area with very little plant diversity (monoculture), in the eye of the homeowner, lawns may remain an important part of the domestic landscape! As well as in very necessary areas like tile beds, paths, roadsides, and recreational areas, lawns provide a background that enhances the overall effect of the home and the various gardens and landscape features.
From nematodes to dog pee spots, the following tips will help you to maintain a healthy lawn naturally.
Of all the cultural practices, mowing exerts the greatest influence on growth, development, and ease of management. By keeping the grass blade height between 6 & 8 cm (2.5 to 3 inches) high you'll be able to produce a more competitive lawn against young and germinating weeds.
Seed mixtures with Titanium Tall Fescue have shown to be more drought, disease, and insect resistant than many other lawn grasses such as the traditional Kentucky bluegrasses. Tall fescue roots penetrate deeper into the soil providing better regrowth and wear tolerance, making it ideal for heavy foot traffic areas and recreational areas.

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The best time to establish a lawn from seed is late summer and early fall (mid-August to mid-September) in southern Ontario. During this period, soil moisture and temperature conditions are optimal for germination and establishment. There is also less competition from germinating weeds in the fall. Make sure that seeding is done early in the fall so that the grass is well established before winter. The plants are then well rooted and more drought- and heat-tolerant the following summer.
Seed the shady areas in the fall for best results. Trees will have shed their leaves by then, so plenty of light is available for the new growth. The grass also gets off to an early start in the spring before the trees leaf out.
Spring seeding should be done as soon as the ground can be worked. Slow, irregular germination may result if the seed is sown when the soil is too cold and damp. (Soil Temp. around 15oC is ideal and there is also strong competition from germinating weeds during the spring. When practical, wait until weed seeds germinate, work the land to kill them and then sow the grass seed. ) If you choose to plant your new lawn in the spring, begin just as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, preferably mid-April to mid-May. This will give your new grass time to get well established before the hot, dry weather sets in.
Fall is often a better time to start your lawn, from mid-August to the end of September. Your seedbed is less likely to dry out at this time of year, and the grass should be well established before winter.
Your typical lawn needs about 2.5 cm (one inch) of water per week through either rain or irrigation. If irrigating, water in the morning as more will be absorbed as opposed to being lost to evaporation in the sun and the warmer temperatures later in the day.
Lawns require relatively large amounts of nitrogen-based fertilizers which should be applied several times during the growing season. Since lawn clippings are high in nutrients, especially nitrogen, much of your initial nitrogen fertilizer investment may be recycled back into your lawn! A fertilizer with a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratio of 4:1:2 (e.g., 20-5-10) is normally the best in most situations. It should be noted though, that a soil nutrient test can accurately determine the actual needs of your lawn including lime if the pH is too low.
(Lawn Liming Rate: 20-50 lbs/1000 ft2)

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An application of this product early in the spring and then later on in the summer will inhibit the growth of weeds from germinating seeds especially the annual problem, crabgrass. Established weeds though have to be dug out by hand.
There is a misconception that the pH level of your dog’s pee is leaving those unsightly spots in your lawn, when it is in fact the high concentration of nitrogen and salts being introduced into the soil. To prevent this, should you see your four-legged friend raising its leg or popping a squat, give that spot a good watering to dilute the minerals. In addition to this, ensuring your dog is well hydrated will help to water down their urine. However, your lawn may already have several severe yellow and bald patches. You may opt to resod or reseed the area, but the soil is what’s affected. Before giving up altogether and adding a scree to the affected area, Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre offers a fertilizer to help balance and remedy your dog pee spots!

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Thatch is a layer of dead leaves, stems and roots that intermingle with the living plants above the soil surface. A one-inch layer of thatch is desirable as it has a cushioning effect against compaction and an insulating effect in cold weather. De-thatching a lawn is an extreme measure that may be considered if the drainage is poor. Lawn aeration may be required as well as the lawn and the soil below must establish a drainage pattern.
If the Japanese Beetle has been destroying certain plants in your landscape plantings or their grubs have been feeding on the roots of your lawn, causing unsightly brown patches maybe it's time to use Mother Nature's secret weapon: Beneficial Nematodes.
Beneficial Nematodes are a natural way to control Japanese Beetle grubs and over some 200 species other pest insects in your lawn while having no detrimental effect on Ladybugs, Earthworms, and other helpful beneficial insects.
Nematodes are naturally occurring microscopic worms of the soil and are used to control soil pest insects in their larvae or grub stages while not posing any health or environmental risks to humans or animals. The beneficial Nematodes enter the JB larva via mouth, anus, or respiratory openings and begins to feed. This causes specific bacteria to emerge from the intestinal tract of the Nematode, spreading inside the insect and multiply very rapidly; the bacteria convert host tissue into products which can easily be taken up by the Nematodes, ceasing the soil dwelling pest insect within a few days. Beneficial Nematodes are effective against not only the larval or grub stage of Japanese Beetles, but the Northern Masked Chafer, European Chafer, Rose Chafer, Crane Fly larvae (Leather Jackets), Oriental Beetles, and June Beetles.
The nematode product you purchase should contain two genera: Steinernema and Heterorhabditis for better grub control.
Beneficial Nematodes are very easy to use. Mix with water and spray on the lawn with a water-can, irrigation system, or a hose-end sprayer. Most homeowners spray at a rate of 10 million nematodes per 600 square feet on grub damaged lawns. After an application, keep the soil moist during the first two weeks for the nematodes to get established.
In Ontario, there are two windows of opportunity to apply Beneficial Nematodes to be effective against the JB grub stage.
The first application should be in May as the soil warms up and then again at the end of August or the first two weeks of September as the JB are hatching into their first larval stage.

We hope these tips help to ensure your healthiest lawn! For more information – and lawncare products - visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌾
It’s always nice to take some time away during the holiday season, but it’s kind of a hassle to arrange for a house sitter simply to take care of your houseplants. So, we recommend doing some thorough holiday-proofing before you go. With the right tools and a little prep work before you head off, you should be able to leave your plants for several weeks without worrying about them drying up. Here are the basics of holiday-proofing, so you can rest assured that your precious plants will be safe and sound through your vacation.
Is it about time to start holiday-proofing your houseplants in Simcoe? Follow these simple steps for getting them all holiday ready for while you’re away.
First, water them thoroughly. Make sure the soil is thoroughly saturated, but if your pot doesn’t have drainage holes, try not to overdo it. If your pot has drainage holes and is placed on a dish, make sure you’ve watered it enough that water begins to collect on the dish. Be sure to dump the water in the dish before you leave so it doesn’t end up getting funky.
Remove any dead plant material. When dried up plant parts remain on a plant, it will still end up directing its energy toward those limbs. Nipping off those pieces should help your plant to grow stronger and use up resources and nutrients more efficiently.
Move them away from cold drafts and direct sunlight. An icy breeze sneaking in through a frozen window could shock your plant, and a ton of sun will end up drying the soil out too quickly. To maintain a safe temperature and reduce sun exposure without depriving your plants of light, try moving them a few feet away from the window.
Turn the thermostat down a bit. Indoor plants don’t mind a cooler base temperature as opposed to being in warm air. This will also help prevent the soil moisture from evaporating too quickly.
Huddle your plants together. It’s all about retaining that moisture, and plants that are all huddled in a bunch will be much better at conserving water.

If you’re going to be away on a holiday for over a week, you’ll want to put together a plan to keep your plants watered while you’re gone. There are a few ways to keep your plants watered while you’re lounging on a beach on the other side of the world, so try some of these methods for self-watering.
Purchase a drip-irrigation system. These automatic watering systems slowly release water over an extended period. There are several different models and designs to choose from, ranging from high-end electronic drip systems, and more budget-friendly options like glass water globes or spikes. Evaluate the size and quantity of your plant collection and select your irrigation system accordingly.
Build a DIY irrigation system. If you’re a crafty type who enjoys saving money by going the DIY route, there are tons of tutorials online for creating your own irrigation system using everyday household materials like mason jars or wine bottles. Browse through Pinterest to see if you can find one that works for your plants.
Mimic a humid climate with a water tray. If you’ve got plants that prefer humid environments and need to be misted occasionally, this is a great way to increase the moisture in the air. Simply fill a tray with pebbles or river stones, then pour some water in. Place your potted plant on top of the tray so it can enjoy some humid tropical air while you’re out soaking in the tropical sun!

If holiday travelling is common practice for you, it might be worth sticking to plants that are low-maintenance and more tolerant of dry spells. These are our favourite options for all you globetrotters out there:
There’s no need to go to the trouble of paying a house sitter to come by your home just to water your plants. These tricks should keep your plants well-watered while you’re away on vacation. If you need to purchase any irrigation systems for while you’re away, come visit Eising and we’ll help you pick out the right models for your plant collection. Enjoy your holiday!