Figures.

By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Now that we’ve brought our plants inside the house to over-winter, we begin to notice those slender, dark gray flies (0.2- 0.4 cm long) flitting about atop the pot soil. Yuck!

   These insects are known as fungus gnats (Bradysia sp.). Whereas they are considered only to be a minor nuisance in house plants, due to their sheer numbers hovering around an attractive plant, they can certainly take away from its appeal. Below is a bit about these pests and some basic control measures.

How Do Fungus Gnats Affect Your Plant?

Other than their swarming presence, fungus gnats are not a direct threat to your plant, but an indirect threat. As their name implies, they are concerned with snacking on the fungi mycelium living in your plants’ soil. (Yes, it’s there and it’s a good thing!) However, these little flies can transfer disease between plants, making them nuisance pests.

A Quick Look at Their Life Cycle:

Adults may lay 300 eggs at a time, which hatch a week later into tiny, threadlike larvae. The larvae feed upon organic matter in the potting soil. After two weeks, they pupate into winged adults, that have no trouble annoying you to no end.

Basic Control Measures:

• The fastest and easiest method of control is to catch the flying adults with yellow sticky cards. The large cards can be cut into little strips and mounted onto little wooden splints (popsicle sticks) then placed around the base of the plant out of the line of sight.

• Water your potted plant from the bottom (sub-irrigation) by adding water to the saucer it is sitting in. This will keep the soil surface dry, making it uninhabitable for the hatching insect larvae. If the surface soil is already very wet, try placing a few potato discs or slices on the surface of the soil. This will attract the larvae as they migrate to the potato to feed. Simply replace the discs every three to four days with fresh slices to eliminate the next generation of adults.

• If you have a large number of plants afflicted as in a greenhouse situation, an application of predatory nematodes (Steinernema feltiae) as a soil drench is suggested. Nematodes will attack the fungus gnat larvae in the soil which will in turn lead to more nematodes being produced.

Good Bugs Are Working at Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre!

Here at Eising’s Greenhouse and Garden Centre, we practice what as known as I.P.M. or Integrated Pest Management. Since we try to create a perfect environment for our plants, we also, unintentionally create perfect conditions for their related pests. To keep the pests at bay, we institute series of steps:

1 - Cultural Controls: We select only the healthiest of plant material to sell and keep them healthy through proper fertilization and growing conditions. We’ve learned that insects are attracted to stressed-out plants!

2 - Physical Controls: We are constantly walking through our plant aisles checking for insect and disease presence and removing the affected plants. Also a clean growing area means there is less chance of pest populations building up on alternate host plants such as weeds.

3 - Biological Controls: At the beginning of the growing season, even before there is any evidence of pest problems, we introduce naturally occurring predators into the growing areas. This is to be at the ready for when the pests do arrive!

In our arsenal we have a series of tiny parasitic wasps, microscopic wire-worms called nematodes, predatory mites as well as bacterial inoculants. So therefore, we cannot spray any chemical insecticides as they will hurt our very valuable biological cache!

Did you ever imagine all the behind-the-scenes work that goes into your plant purchases from Eising's to make them the best value around?

For more information – and bug products - visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre soon! 🪰

By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

Bearing in mind that a lawn is a very unnatural situation in that we are trying to sustain a large area with very little plant diversity (monoculture), in the eye of the homeowner, lawns may remain an important part of the domestic landscape! As well as in very necessary areas like tile beds, paths, roadsides, and recreational areas, lawns provide a background that enhances the overall effect of the home and the various gardens and landscape features.

   From nematodes to dog pee spots, the following tips will help you to maintain a healthy lawn naturally.

Mowing

Of all the cultural practices, mowing exerts the greatest influence on growth, development, and ease of management. By keeping the grass blade height between 6 & 8 cm (2.5 to 3 inches) high you'll be able to produce a more competitive lawn against young and germinating weeds.

Grass Species Selection

Seed mixtures with Titanium Tall Fescue have shown to be more drought, disease, and insect resistant than many other lawn grasses such as the traditional Kentucky bluegrasses. Tall fescue roots penetrate deeper into the soil providing better regrowth and wear tolerance, making it ideal for heavy foot traffic areas and recreational areas.

Carried by Eising Garden Centre

Time of Sowing

The best time to establish a lawn from seed is late summer and early fall (mid-August to mid-September) in southern Ontario. During this period, soil moisture and temperature conditions are optimal for germination and establishment. There is also less competition from germinating weeds in the fall. Make sure that seeding is done early in the fall so that the grass is well established before winter. The plants are then well rooted and more drought- and heat-tolerant the following summer.

Seed the shady areas in the fall for best results. Trees will have shed their leaves by then, so plenty of light is available for the new growth. The grass also gets off to an early start in the spring before the trees leaf out.

Spring seeding should be done as soon as the ground can be worked. Slow, irregular germination may result if the seed is sown when the soil is too cold and damp. (Soil Temp. around 15oC is ideal and there is also strong competition from germinating weeds during the spring. When practical, wait until weed seeds germinate, work the land to kill them and then sow the grass seed. ) If you choose to plant your new lawn in the spring, begin just as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, preferably mid-April to mid-May. This will give your new grass time to get well established before the hot, dry weather sets in.

Fall is often a better time to start your lawn, from mid-August to the end of September. Your seedbed is less likely to dry out at this time of year, and the grass should be well established before winter.

Watering

Your typical lawn needs about 2.5 cm (one inch) of water per week through either rain or irrigation. If irrigating, water in the morning as more will be absorbed as opposed to being lost to evaporation in the sun and the warmer temperatures later in the day.

Fertilization

Lawns require relatively large amounts of nitrogen-based fertilizers which should be applied several times during the growing season. Since lawn clippings are high in nutrients, especially nitrogen, much of your initial nitrogen fertilizer investment may be recycled back into your lawn! A fertilizer with a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratio of 4:1:2 (e.g., 20-5-10) is normally the best in most situations. It should be noted though, that a soil nutrient test can accurately determine the actual needs of your lawn including lime if the pH is too low.

(Lawn Liming Rate: 20-50 lbs/1000 ft2)

Carried by Eising Garden Centre

Corn Gluten

An application of this product early in the spring and then later on in the summer will inhibit the growth of weeds from germinating seeds especially the annual problem, crabgrass. Established weeds though have to be dug out by hand.

Dog Pee Spots

There is a misconception that the pH level of your dog’s pee is leaving those unsightly spots in your lawn, when it is in fact the high concentration of nitrogen and salts being introduced into the soil. To prevent this, should you see your four-legged friend raising its leg or popping a squat, give that spot a good watering to dilute the minerals. In addition to this, ensuring your dog is well hydrated will help to water down their urine. However, your lawn may already have several severe yellow and bald patches. You may opt to resod or reseed the area, but the soil is what’s affected. Before giving up altogether and adding a scree to the affected area, Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre offers a fertilizer to help balance and remedy your dog pee spots!

Carried by Eising Garden Centre

Thatch Control

Thatch is a layer of dead leaves, stems and roots that intermingle with the living plants above the soil surface. A one-inch layer of thatch is desirable as it has a cushioning effect against compaction and an insulating effect in cold weather. De-thatching a lawn is an extreme measure that may be considered if the drainage is poor. Lawn aeration may be required as well as the lawn and the soil below must establish a drainage pattern.

Nematodes - Aid Against Japanese Beetles and More!

If the Japanese Beetle has been destroying certain plants in your landscape plantings or their grubs have been feeding on the roots of your lawn, causing unsightly brown patches maybe it's time to use Mother Nature's secret weapon: Beneficial Nematodes.

   Beneficial Nematodes are a natural way to control Japanese Beetle grubs and over some 200 species other pest insects in your lawn while having no detrimental effect on Ladybugs, Earthworms, and other helpful beneficial insects.

   Nematodes are naturally occurring microscopic worms of the soil and are used to control soil pest insects in their larvae or grub stages while not posing any health or environmental risks to humans or animals. The beneficial Nematodes enter the JB larva via mouth, anus, or respiratory openings and begins to feed. This causes specific bacteria to emerge from the intestinal tract of the Nematode, spreading inside the insect and multiply very rapidly; the bacteria convert host tissue into products which can easily be taken up by the Nematodes, ceasing the soil dwelling pest insect within a few days. Beneficial Nematodes are effective against not only the larval or grub stage of Japanese Beetles, but the Northern Masked Chafer, European Chafer, Rose Chafer, Crane Fly larvae (Leather Jackets), Oriental Beetles, and June Beetles.

   The nematode product you purchase should contain two genera: Steinernema and Heterorhabditis for better grub control.

   Beneficial Nematodes are very easy to use. Mix with water and spray on the lawn with a water-can, irrigation system, or a hose-end sprayer. Most homeowners spray at a rate of 10 million nematodes per 600 square feet on grub damaged lawns. After an application, keep the soil moist during the first two weeks for the nematodes to get established.

   In Ontario, there are two windows of opportunity to apply Beneficial Nematodes to be effective against the JB grub stage.

   The first application should be in May as the soil warms up and then again at the end of August or the first two weeks of September as the JB are hatching into their first larval stage.

   We hope these tips help to ensure your healthiest lawn! For more information – and lawncare products - visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌾