During the dog days of summer, having a resilient, dependable, and beautiful perennial flower in your garden is terrific. Meet the Black-Eyed Susan. They are quick to establish and mature, and perfect for a perennial border, cutting garden, or naturalized garden. Depending on the variety, they will grow 1-3 feet tall and spread about 2 feet wide, making them a show-stopping spectacle!

If that and the cheerful, dark-centred, golden-yellow, daisy-shaped flowers aren’t enough to draw you in, here are more reasons we love these plants!

Long Blooming

Black-Eyed Susan (Latin name: Rudbeckia) is a prolific bloomer whose flowers can last from July to October. At a time in the season when many other flowers can look weary, Rudbeckia is a shining star. Its flowers grow on sturdy stems, which adds to their resilience.

Easy to Grow

Rudbeckia are robust! They are drought—and heat-tolerant and generally do well in hard-to-grow locations. Once established, they do not require frequent watering. Rudbeckia hirta is an Ontario native plant, and exceptionally hardy.

Plant Black-Eyed Susan in full sun to partial shade and almost any type of soil. They are adaptable, generally trouble-free and do not require any extra care.

Pollinator-friendly

We aren’t the only ones who love Rudbeckia; butterflies, birds and bees do, too. This makes Black-Eyed Susan a perfect partner for other pollinator-friendly plants like Monarda (aka Wild Bergamot and Bee Balm), Gaillardia (Blanket flower), Yarrow and Echinacea (aka Coneflower).

Who doesn’t love Black-Eyed Susans? Because of the course hairs on the stems, this is a plant that rabbits and deer don’t care for.

Black-Eyed Susan is perfect to grow in a border, bed, planter, or in a field as a mass planting. It’s resilient, attractive, low maintenance and a beneficial addition to any garden!

It’s the question we probably hear the most when it comes to flower gardens…”What can I buy that will flower all season long?” While some annuals bloom for a very long time, no plant will bloom from early Spring to late Fall, and no vegetable plant will produce for that duration either. The solution? Succession Planting! It’s a simple strategy that maximizes the time your garden is blooming or producing vegetables.

What is Succession Planting?

Plant early (earlier than you think) and plant things in succession that thrive in the current weather conditions - right up until there is a hard frost. Simply plan to plant another crop or flower once one is harvested or finished blooming. Many gardeners here in southern Ontario wait until the May 24th weekend to plant everything - all at once. Succession gardening staggers planting times so there is a continuous harvest of vegetables or an everchanging series of blooming flowers. While it takes a little more planning, the results are worth it.

A Succession of Blooms

The best way to ensure a parade of colour in your garden is to choose a variety of annuals, perennials, and biennials that bloom at different times. There is a notion that a garden can only have annual flowers or just perennials, but the best results come from a mix of both. You’re allowed to mix them together! Most annuals bloom during the heat of the summer, but perennial flowers can extend the season for you by blooming in early spring or in the fall. A list of perennial bloom times can be found in this Landscape Ontario article to help you choose your plants.

Some flowering plants, like pansies, love cooler weather and are easy to purchase in the spring. A little planning and planting in the fall will provide a flush of colour from Spring bulbs like Daffodils, Crocus, and Hyacinth. Spring bulbs look great alongside early-blooming shrubs or trees like Canada Serviceberry and Forsythia. 

April or early May is also an excellent time to directly sow annual flowers like sunflowers, nasturtium, borage, and herbs like cilantro and dill to give them a head start.

Cool Weather Veggies

It’s surprising how many vegetables thrive in cool weather and withstand light frost. Keep tender plants indoors until the third week of April and slowly harden them off, but get outdoors any time in April and begin directly sowing fast-growing cool crops like leafy greens, root vegetables, and some herbs. 

Lettuce planted in late spring will tend to “bolt” and taste bitter once hotter temperatures arrive. Lettuce loves cooler conditions. So you don’t have to wait until May 24th to sow lettuce and other vegetables. Which Vegetables? We have a list of examples for you in our article: Starting Seeds Indoors and Cold Weather Crops. Starting early means you can harvest a whole crop of vegetables before you plant heat-loving crops like peppers and tomatoes.

Sow All Season

If you’ve ever been overwhelmed by planting too much of one crop at once, you will love succession gardening. While you may be able to freeze a batch of 2,000 string beans from the entire packet of seeds you planted in one go, sometimes stretching out the harvest is nice. Plant smaller batches of beans, peas, and herbs like cilantro, dill, and basil every three weeks to ensure continuous summer harvests. This approach is also known as interval gardening. 

Sow cool-weather crops like leaf lettuce, Swiss Chard, and Radishes in April or early May and again in September.

Continuous Harvest

Once your early Spring vegetables like lettuce, peas and radishes have been harvested, it’s time to sow your second crop of cool-weather veggies for harvesting in the Fall. Do you know veggies like parsnips, Brussels sprouts, peas, and kale have more flavour after a mild frost?! A mild winter this year meant we were still harvesting some Brussels sprouts in December.

Double Up

Another tip is to plant things that grow well together. For example, plant seeds for a root crop like carrots below your tomato plants, peas or bush beans in the vegetable garden. The carrot crop will be next after the tomatoes, peas or beans are done for the season. There are many combinations like this - tomatoes and basil, kale and dill, lettuce and beets, broccoli and borage, just to name a few. Doing this helps to increase the production of your plot of land and keeps the soil covered, which is always better for soil health.

One final strategy for flower succession planting is to use containers. Consider placing a well-positioned pot of annual blooms beside perennial plants resting after flowering. 

Once you get started, researching companion plant combinations like these can be a fun game. These combinations will extend the time you can enjoy lots of colourful blooms and increase the amount of vegetables a garden can produce! 

Come along on a little journey with me and imagine this… It’s Springtime. The sun shines, and the air finally feels warmer after a long, grey winter. You take a little trip to your favourite garden centre and find that special plant you’ve been reading about and hoping for. Of course, you buy the plant, take it home, and proudly place it on your sunny patio on this beautiful day. Two more sunny days go by, and the plant does not look good at all. It seems to be dying, so you give it lots of water, but that makes no difference. It is in fact dying. So disappointing! How could this be happening?

In our excitement to get outdoors and plant flowers, or add greenery, we forget that the plants we’ve been growing indoors or inside a greenhouse, aren’t used to the elements in the great outdoors. They’ve been sheltered indoors, out of the wind and direct sun, and watered and fertilized regularly with the utmost attention. They’ve been pampered in a plant spa and are quite literally hothouse flowers! Being plunked outside afterwards is the equivalent of us going outside in a bathing suit with no sunblock on for the first sunny, warm days of Spring, exposing our lily-white skin that’s been covered up by a parka all winter long!

Red, sunburned skin is not a great image, but hopefully, this comparison helps to explain the importance of transitioning or hardening off plants. Much like us, indoor plants need to be gradually exposed to the elements and given protection in the process.

The same will be true if you have planted seeds indoors or purchased greenhouse-grown seedlings. Seedlings grown in a greenhouse, a sunny window, or under grow lights in your home need up to 14 days to acclimate to being moved from their cozy indoor space to the great outdoors.

What is Hardening Off?

Hardening off ensures that you will not lose another plant or seedling! It’s a sensible process for all the plants you’re moving from indoors to outdoors. By helping plants or seedlings to gradually toughen to withstand the elements, you prevent transplant shock, which can cause your plants to be stunted or, worse, die.

To ensure success, the process of hardening off takes up to 14 days, so you will want to begin two weeks before transplanting plants and seedlings into your garden. Houseplants may only need 7 to 10 days, but tender, tiny seedlings need the full two weeks to strengthen and get used to their new environments.

When to Harden Off

Cold-weather plants like lettuce, kale, pansies, violas, dianthus, and potted or forced spring bulbs can be hardened off once daytime temperatures consistently reach 5 Celsius, usually in April in southern Ontario.

Perennial plants, tropical houseplants, and heat-loving seedlings like most annual flowers, tomatoes, peppers, and basil should wait until temperatures are around 7-10 Celsius to begin hardening off. For vegetables and annual flowers, start hardening off around May 10 here in Norfolk County if your target is planting seedlings around May 24th.

Successfully Hardening Off Your Seedlings and Plants

Days 1 and 2

Begin on a day that is optimally warm (At least 5 Celsius for cold-weather-tolerant plants, 7 Celsius for heat-loving plants, or 15 Celsius for tropical houseplants) and place your plants or seedlings outside in full shade and protected from the wind.

If you don't have a wind-sheltered area in the shade, putting your plants in an open cardboard box is a good way to protect them from the wind at this stage.

Leave them in this protected area for 1-2 hours before returning them indoors.

Days 3 to 5

Each day, gradually increase the length of time your plants are outside and begin to place them in an area where they will get dappled shade and some wind.

Pay close attention to watering while you’re hardening off your plants as they will require more frequent watering.

Days 6 to 10

On day 6, start to increase your plant’s exposure to direct sunlight by placing them in the morning sun, which is less intense than the afternoon sun.

Begin to leave them outside overnight from this point on unless the temperature is expected to drop below 7 Celcius.

Days 10 to 14

After 10 days of acclimation, it is safe to move houseplants that require more sun to a location that meets their needs.

After 14 days of acclimation, it’s safe to transplant seedlings to their place in the garden or to large pots if you’re growing in containers.

As soon as your plants are transplanted, be sure to water them well! This will help them transition and eliminate air pockets in the soil that can harm the roots.

If the temperature drops and a fluke, unexpected freeze is forecasted after you’ve planted everything, cover your plants with row cover, cloches (you can use plastic water jugs with the bottom cut out, just leave the screw cap off to act as a vent), or cardboard boxes to protect them.

To summarize, when Spring arrives, protect your skin with sunblock, and harden off your plants before you move them outdoors!

Fall, also known as Pumpkin Spice Season, is well underway.  The leaves are changing colour and we’re saying so long to another garden season.  But wait!  There’s still plenty of enjoyment to be had from your hard-working garden.  Temperatures may be falling, but Autumn is the perfect time to squeeze in a few more plants, and to slow down and connect with family, friends, and neighbours by hosting a backyard party.

Autumn Entertaining Ideas

This is a list of our favourite ideas to inspire your outdoor party plans and keep us in mind if you’re looking for decorations like pumpkins, gourds and flowers for your next event. Eising Porch Packages make decorating fun and easy!

Outdoor Movie or Game Night

Bring the patio furniture close to the house to protect everyone from a fall breeze, grab the basket of blankets or throws, warm some cider, and pop the popcorn. There’s nothing like a beautiful Autumn evening, now that the bugs are gone, to enjoy a night under the stars watching a great movie, your favourite team sport, or cracking open a fun board game.

Candy Apples Extravaganza

Create a self-serve candy apple bar with slices of apples on wooden skewers, bowls of dips like caramel, chocolate, hazelnut spread, and almond butter, and small bowls of toppings like mini marshmallows, sprinkles, and chocolate chips.

Harvest Abundance

Fall is the perfect time to enjoy a potluck featuring everything in season, or preserved from the garden.  Sweet potatoes, squash, and yes, even Pumpkin Spice. Decorate the table with seasonal fruit, flowers, potted fall plants from Eising Greenhouses  and fairy lights to add to the ambience. Maybe even a grazing board packed with favourite snacks.

Wreath or Garland Making Party

Looking to layer your Fall décor on the front door or a fireplace but don’t have a wreath or garland? Pick out a design with friends, and have everyone contribute one item for everyone to use. Forage for items in your yard, or buy them, then get together and create! 

Backyard Bonfire

If you’re lucky enough to have a fire pit, or chiminea, Fall is the perfect time to host a backyard bonfire on a cool night. Marshmallows and hot chocolate will make it super cozy!

Oktoberfest Party

You may not want to hire the polka band, but soft pretzels, sausage, and local apple cider should definitely be on the menu. Fill a galvanized tub with ice, and add mason jars with premade drinks to make hosting a breeze.

Pumpkin Painting Party

All you’ll need is a pile of pumpkins and gourds, an inexpensive tablecloth,  paint supplies, and some inspiration. It’s a canvas that can be painted over and over, so don’t be afraid to get creative.  Kids love this, but so do adults!

Whatever you’re planning, we hope that you enjoy the season. You know where to find us: 814 Cockshutt Road in Simcoe, ON

P.S. Autumn is also the perfect time to plant perennials, shrubs and trees - stop by and peruse the garden centre to find some great last minute garden additions! 

In this case, the plants Hens and Chicks, not the feathery friends.

Sempervivum, also known as Hens and Chicks or Houseleek, are a group of succulents that are becoming very popular in Southern Ontario. Here’s why these cold hardy perennial plants are gaining attention.

Low-maintenance

Low-maintenance is the item on everyone’s checklist, right? Hens and Chicks are known for being no-fuss. Sempervivum require very little soil, fertilizer or water. They’re sun-loving, hardy, resilient, and drought-tolerant. When you don’t have a lot of time to garden, you’ll be grateful that your Hens and Chicks need minimal care once they become established.

Versatile, and Did We Mention Low-maintenance?

Sempervivum will grow in full sun to partial shade, and average to poor soil as long as they have good drainage. They will manage just fine in poor soil and harsh conditions like heat and cold! This makes Hens and Chicks the perfect candidate for that spot in the garden where nothing else wants to grow. The spot that’s too hot, or too windy, the soil is rocky or gritty and not ideal or it’s eroding, like on a slope.

These rugged warriors can be grown on rooftops, ledges, walls, in rock gardens, hanging baskets, troughs and containers. Just make sure there are drainage holes. Too much water is their only enemy and will result in their roots rotting.

Chick Charms

While most Hens and Chicks are low-growing, 8-15 cm tall, they will all spread 30 cm and more - as much as you like, really. This is because they produce small plants, known as “chicks” or offsets around the main plant. The “Chick Charms”. Chicks can also be transplanted to start a whole new plant.

Tough and Beautiful

As a ground cover, Sempervivum can add visual interest and contrast to a border of annuals or perennials.

While they’re known for their pretty rosette-shaped clusters of foliage, you may not realize that Hens and Chicks also come in a variety of colours, and produce stunning blooms in summer.

Once a plant blooms, deadhead the flower and pull up the soft parent plant with it. The plant dies when it blooms, but new chicks will grow and replace it.

Hens and Chicks fleshy leaves make them less attractive to many garden pests and they are generally resistant to diseases. Tough plants for sure, and worthy of a spot in the garden. The next time you’re in Eising Garden Centre, we recommend that you peruse the Sempervivum section here in Simcoe and give these outstanding succulents a try!

Ah, the sanctuary of a nice, cool shade garden on a hot summer day. Lush foliage comes to mind, and maybe a nap in a hammock. But what do you do when you have a shady spot in the garden that isn’t so lush and could use a boost? A planted container or two can be just the thing! 

Here’s a scenario that can happen to any of us. A plant isn’t doing well and needs to be moved. Or maybe something just didn’t survive. Now what to do with that gap? The beauty of planting in pots is that you can move them around, but also create conditions for plants that you might not have in the garden. For example, one of the toughest places to grow anything is in dry shade - tree roots can compete for space and for moisture. That’s when planting in a container, or several is the way to go.

What is a Shade Garden?

In general, a shade garden is an area that gets less than six hours of sunlight in a day. When choosing plants, remember that some will tolerate shade better than others. When it comes to plants, shady areas are divided into three categories:

• Full shade - no direct sunlight, only reflected sunlight from surrounding areas
• Partial or Semi shade - in the sun for part of the day and shade for the rest
• Light shade - sunlight that is filtered, like under a tree with smaller leaves

Choosing Containers and Pots

While containers can be made out of a variety of materials like plastic, concrete, wood or fiberglass, the key is using a pot with at least one drainage hole. 

Keep in mind that smaller pots will dry out more quickly. Larger pots retain moisture longer, but when they’re full of soil and plants they get heavy. Look for a Goldilocks pot that’s “just right”, or splurge on a Schwarzenegger-sized pot if you’re looking to build up those biceps!

Whatever pot size you choose, always use a growing medium that’s designed especially for containers. At Eising Garden Centre you’ll find potting mix which is light and airy, unlike garden soil, which will compact and retain too much moisture. If you’re using a big container, you may want to use a smaller, more shallow pot as an insert, or put natural mulch in the bottom before you add potting soil. Doing this will reduce the amount of soil used, and keep the container lighter as well.

Plant Selection

This is the fun part! While many plants do well in pots, here are just some of our favourite shade plants for containers:

Coleus

Coleus is an annual that will grow in full shade and comes in a variety of very interesting leaf colours. This plant is known for its vibrant leaf colours, not its blooms.

Begonia

Begonias come in a wide variety of shapes and colours, making them a versatile annual for containers. Some varieties are happy in full shade, while others like light, or filtered shade. Most begonias like good drainage so their roots are not too wet.

Impatiens

These annuals are popular for a reason!  They come in a wide range of very brightly coloured flowers that do well in full shade.

Trailing Lobelia

The trailing type of Lobelia is an annual that grows well in shade. The masses of prolific blooms come in many pretty colours to mix and match with other plants.

Caladium

A showy annual with vibrantly coloured leaves that will illuminate any shady area. Caladiums like partial to full shade but if you’re a pet owner be careful - this plant is toxic to cats and dogs.

Heuchera or Coral Bells

Coral Bells are perennials that also come in a wide variety of beautiful leaf colours. This plant will thrive in shade, but can also tolerate some sun and they are drought tolerant.

Hosta

Known for its lush foliage, this perennial comes in such a wide variety of sizes, colours, and sun tolerance, and is by far a favourite. Many people don’t think of it as a container plant but for all of the features mentioned, it makes a great choice as a potted plant.

Fertilizer

Like all plants in containers, check the moisture levels often and provide water and fertilizer throughout the growing season. This article contains more information on caring for annuals and perennials.

Design

While you can mix and match any plants for shade containers, this article about container design ideas for sun-loving annuals may inspire you! 

As mentioned above, many plants will do very well in containers. It’s also fun to experiment with annuals and perennials you can’t necessarily grow in the garden, or for anyone with a patio or balcony. Don’t be afraid to mix annuals and perennials together in a container, or to use one statement plant. Some potted plants will need extra protection in the winter like perennials, small trees, and shrubs, but growing plants in containers is a great way to add a splash of colour, or include some bold foliage in tough-to-grow areas.  

As simple or in-depth as you want to make it, a garden journal can be a trusted guidebook and useful tool for even the most simple garden.

If you are starting a garden, or adding to it, you probably have a plan - even if it’s all in your head! Many customers come into Eising Greenhouses with a plant list, or hand drawn diagram, or a design created by our in-house team. This makes plant selection so much easier! But what happens once the plants go into the ground? A garden journal helps us to keep track of what happens from season to season.

Garden Notebook, Diary, Journal or Planner

Call it whatever you like - we’re talking about any method that helps you plan, track and enjoy your garden!

Have you ever found yourself trying to remember what that plant was that did so well last year? What was the name of that tomato that the whole family loved? Or why your daisies just don’t look as good this year as they did last year? This is when a garden journal can be very handy!

You may already have a notebook and coloured pencils out, ready to start making notes and drawing! Or,  you may be like me when I started journalling and thinking that a planner is just another dreaded task. Stick with us, because you can really make this as easy as you like!

If you already have a journal, one of the following suggestions may inspire you to add to it, or change things up. Like a garden, a journal evolves over time and provides a great record of more than just plants.

Getting Started is Easy!

If you would like lots of structure to help you get started, you can purchase journals online and in bookstores that have prompts and sections to fill in. Otherwise, just find a simple, lined notebook (I have one from the dollar store) or work with a notebook you already have. 

Start each entry with a date. What date will you need to do specific tasks? What date did you plant it? What date did it bloom? What date did you harvest the first tomatoes? Dating everything will be very useful over time, as you look back on what worked and what didn’t. 

If you’ve already drawn up a list, or a plan, glue them to pages in your journal. If you have receipts, or plant tags, attach those to a page or two as well, or attach an envelope to stow them away.

Add notes to your entries like where plants came from (garden centre, friend), where you planted them (eg new bed beside the front porch), any special care you gave them (type of soil used or fertilizer)… any specifics that come to mind.

Details Can Always Be Added

Many of us create a plan, and what ends up happening in reality is a little or a lot different. Adding a labeled diagram of your garden area to your journal captures what’s planted and where. Why is that helpful? Here are a few examples to show why this is a great future reference… to remember which annual geranium was stellar in a specific spot last summer when you go to plant it again the following summer. Or, if you are rotating your vegetable crops you can track which vegetables were in specific areas of the garden. Or, which plant did deer find very tasty, leaving a bare spot on the edge of a bed?

Again, be sure to add dates to your entries because they do come in handy when you’re tracking things from year to year.

Pictures and Drawings

This is the next level of detail that can be added - or not! 

Notebooks that are created to be used specifically as garden journals often include different types of pages - lined, dot grid, graph, and blank. These different formats allow for making lists, plotting out gardens, and drawing pictures or pasting in photos. If you’re enjoying tracking what’s in your garden, you may want to start with a journal for this purpose, or one that you can add sheets to so that you can draw or plot. 

It can be very calming to sit in the garden on a nice day and draw in your journal. Or, take pictures during peak bloom times so that you can sit inside and draw on a rainy day or in the middle of winter.  

Seasons may fly by quickly, but your journal is your memory book and trusty reminder of the joy of life in the garden.

If you have some space in your flower or vegetable garden, growing herbs is definitely worth it! Many are drought tolerant, do well in containers, require very little care, and can provide a bountiful harvest all summer long. 

Buying herbs at the grocery store is often pricey. Growing them at home, using the tips below, helps to ensure a steady supply for a fraction of the price. 

If  you’re not accustomed to adding herbs to meals at home, buying a plant is a great way to experiment and see which ones you like. If you try Cilantro, for example, and don’t like it, place it in a nice pot and take it as a hostess gift the next time someone invites you to a barbeque. Especially if you’re coming over to our house, we love it!

Herb Growing Tips

• Like many other plants, there are perennial and annual herbs (annuals don’t survive an Ontario winter and need to be planted each year). Perennial or annual may determine where you plant your herbs in the garden.
• Most herbs are drought tolerant and enjoy full sun. The amount of water and sun can vary slightly, so it’s good to note watering and light needs for the herbs you’re growing.
• The more you trim herbs, or “give them a haircut”, the more your plant will thrive. Start trimming them early - when they’re about 4 inches tall, and do it often! This will make your plants more sturdy and bushy.
• Regular pruning ensures that your herbs don’t flower! While this is the goal with many other plants, it’s not what you want with herbs. A plant will focus on producing flowers and seeds, and stop producing the leaves that you want to harvest for herbs!

Here’s a list of our favourite herbs to grow in Southern Ontario, and how to care for them.

Basil - Annual

If you’ve planted tomatoes, it just makes sense to add a few basil plants! The tomatoes will love them, and so will you on your toasted tomato sandwiches. Basil loves full sun, and evenly moist soil.

Chives - Perennial

Chives are one herb that you may want to allow to flower. Its blossoms are great for flavouring vinegar, and the plant will still produce mildly onion-flavoured stems. Chives like full sun but will still grow in partial shade, and once established they only need watering during dry spells.

Cilantro - Annual

To some people with a very specific gene Cilantro tastes like soap! For everyone else, it’s one of the most delicious herbs and a taco wouldn’t be the same without it. Cilantro prefers part shade, but will tolerate full sun. It can be allowed to dry out, but it may flower prematurely if it gets too dry.

Dill - Annual

While Dill is considered an annual, many people in Ontario find that if you allow it to eventually go to seed, it will reseed and grow again the following season. No guarantees. But worth a try, right?  Dill plants love full sun, and their roots just slightly moist.

Lemon Balm - Perennial

Fresh leaves can be used to make tea all summer long, or can be dried for winter use. But this versatile herb can be used for many things from pesto to cookies! Grow Lemon Balm in full sun to partial shade, and keep the soil moist for optimal growth.

Lemongrass - Annual

A staple in Thai cooking, Lemongrass is a great addition if you love to cook. Full sun and moist soil will keep this herb happy and producing lots of  lemony stalks. You might want to try bringing it indoors for the winter as well.

Mint - Perennial

This herb comes in so many variations that are just simply delicious - spearmint, peppermint, apple mint, chocolate mint, and more! But this is one plant you’ll want to keep in a pot, well away from garden soil. It’s also one to trim before it sets seeds or you will have a garden that’s full of mint! It can be invasive. It will thrive in full sun but will stand some shade, and it likes moist soil.

Oregano - Perennial

For obvious reasons, (tomato sauce) Oregano is a great addition to the garden. It will spread and reseed throughout the garden if you let it go to seed, but some people like this feature and use it as a groundcover or border for a perennial bed. Oregano likes full sun to partial shade and once it’s established it is very drought tolerant.

Parsley (flat and curly) - Annual 

There was a time when every restaurant meal was adorned with a sprig of Parsley. It’s pretty. But it’s also an underrated culinary herb and can add wonderful flavour to soups and stews as well as other savoury dishes. Keep this plant moist and in full sun to part shade.

Rosemary - Annual

Is anyone else addicted to bread with olive oil, salt and Rosemary? It can’t just be us! This is another garden staple that loves full sun and slightly moist soil. It can also be brought indoors for the winter, but be sure to keep the soil from drying out completely. 

Sage - Perennial                            

Perennial, with a caveat. In Ontario, it’s best to provide some winter protection for this plant if you want it to survive the winter. I’ve had reasonable success with bringing it indoors for the winter, or it can be treated as an annual. Sage likes full sun and moist soil but don’t overwater this one! It does love the heat of summer and will produce a nice big plant once temperatures heat up.

Thyme - Perennial

Thyme is just so good in so many things - vegetables, meats, soups, and of course stuffing! It’s easy to grow if it has well-drained soil and full sun. Once it’s established it is moderately drought tolerant and can be harvested from early Spring until Winter. 

Like all herbs - don’t forget to give it frequent haircuts!

 

At Eising Garden Centre you’ll also find many more herbs to grow and enjoy. Do stop by and give them a try!

You’ve selected your annual and perennial plants, chosen their location in the garden, amended the soil and everything is planted. Or close to it!  Now what? How can you take care of them to maximize their potential?  A bit of simple and easy maintenance will keep your plants healthy and blooming.

Once they start blooming, most annuals will flower all season long, until cold temperatures or frost put an end to their display. Many perennials will bloom for several weeks. We listed some of our favourites in this article if you missed it.

Here are some simple tips to keep your plants looking great!

Water

Newly planted annuals and perennials, even drought tolerant plants need to be watered at planting time. 

Perennials will need water every week for the first two weeks and during periods without rain. Most perennials do well with a minimum of one inch of water per week.  

Water is absorbed through the roots, so water the soil and not the foliage. Low (pressure) and slow (volume) allows water to adequately soak into the soil instead of running all over the place! It’s also best to water in the morning rather than at night because foliage that stays wet all night is susceptible to rot and foliar diseases. 

Annuals planted in containers will need to be watered more frequently than annuals in a flower bed. Hanging baskets and planters will most likely need water daily, and in the heat of summer twice a day. For hanging baskets, the water should run out of the bottom. 

In planters or the garden, use your finger in the soil to test it out - if it feels dry, your plant needs water.

Mulch

Mulch is always a very good idea to maintain soil health in the garden no matter what you’re planting!

An organic mulch will help enrich your soil, and keep it moist. A layer of at least 2 inches of mulch will also suppress weeds. Who doesn’t love that? The only caveat: don’t allow the mulch to touch your plants.

Deadhead

Deadheading or removing flowers that have finished blooming is important for many plants. Doing this allows the energy from the plant to be sent to producing new blossoms in annuals, and some perennials.  

How do you do it? Take sharp, clean scissors or pruners, and cut off any dead flowers just below the base of the flower or above the first leaf. With some plants you can simply break off the spent flowers.

Bonus: your plants will look much better without dead flowers on them! 

Note: some annuals don’t need deadheading. For example, Verbena, Lantana, Lobelia, Impatiens, Petunias, and Begonia.

Fertilizer

Let’s face it, fertilizer packaging can be confusing. They often feature three letters and three numbers. What does it all mean? What is N-P-K? This Eising article explains all you need to know about fertilizing and is worth the read. 

However, in a nutshell, this is a really easy way to remember the function of N (nitrogen), P (phosphorous and K (potassium) when it comes to fertilizing. The numbers are the percentage of each of those nutrients that the fertilizer package contains. 

N = UP - foliage and blooms

P = DOWN - roots

K = ALL AROUND - overall plant health

If you used an organic, slow-release fertilizer when you planted your annuals or perennials in the ground, you shouldn’t have to fertilize again during the season. 

Most potting soil in planters or hanging baskets contains the nutrients needed to help your plants get started. An easy way to maintain nutrients throughout the season is sprinkling Shake n’ Feed Ultra Bloom 10-18-9 slow release fertilizer on top of the soil. It will slowly  feed your plants for three months.  For heavy feeders like petunias or plants that are hungry, looking light, and in need of an instant boost, use a water-soluble fertilizer with an NPK ratio of approximately 20-20-20 every two weeks to keep them blooming. 

For perennials, trees and shrubs that need more nutrients during the year, Shake n’ Feed slow release 18-6-12 fertilizer can be applied in the spring and it will feed your plants for three months during the growing season. The same fertilizer can be used for trees, shrubs and perennials in subsequent seasons.

As a rule of thumb, it’s better to under-fertilize and watch how your plants respond. Over-fertilizing can lead to sick plants that have yellow or brown leaves. In your garden, the only way to know what your plants need is to test the soil. Otherwise you’re guessing! To test your soil in Ontario, samples can be sent to The University of Guelph.

Let’s face it, summers are short and when we invest in plants we all want annuals and perennials that are long blooming. Flowers that last the duration of the summer are ideal! To achieve this, there are a few things to consider like: the plants you choose, good soil, and the amount of sun the flowers will get. When you come into Eising Garden Centre we can help you find sun or shade loving plants, and soil for your hanging pots, planters or garden beds, but to get started you’ll find some of our favourite plants listed below. First, a little plant primer that will help you make decisions.

Annual? Perennial? What’s the Difference?

Annuals and perennials are in separate areas of the greenhouse because they are plants that we will treat differently in the garden. 

Here is the best way to remember the difference:

• Annual plants are planted every year, annually, as they will not survive the winter
• Perennial plant’s roots survive the winter and the plant will regrow each Spring

It’s good to know the difference, right? Now you know what to expect from the plants you buy!

Because Annuals and Perennials are in separate areas of the greenhouse, you might think that the two don’t mix in the garden, but they absolutely do. For example, Perennials can make a great backdrop for Annuals. Or, a well placed pot of Annuals amongst Perennials or shrubs can fill in a gap, or bring a pop of colour once other blooms have faded. Using Annuals, Perennials and Shrubs together can really maximize the beauty in your space! 

If you’re not sure where to start, here are some of our favourite sun loving flowering plants that are easy to grow and long blooming!

Annual Flowers

• Petunias are one of the most popular blooming annuals for many reasons - there are a wide variety to choose from, they have a wonderful scent, they’re easy to grow and they bloom from Spring until frost.
• Zinnia flowers are low maintenance, fairly drought tolerant, come in many bright colours, will also bloom continuously from Spring until frost, and will attract butterflies to your garden! All things considered, they are one of the best annuals to grow. 
• Geraniums are great for containers, hanging baskets, or as bedding plants and come in a variety of leaf shapes and bloom colours. Another reason why these Annuals are so popular is that they are easy to grow and will keep producing flowers late into the Fall.
• Marigolds come in vibrant colours and are another no-fuss Annual that’s tried and true. These long lasting flowers will also attract butterflies, bees,  lady bugs, and other beneficial insects making them very good companion plants in any garden but especially your vegetable garden.
• Cosmos will bloom from late Spring into Fall especially if you remove dead flowers. In return, these colourful, daisy-like flowers will attract pollinating insects as well as birds. Cosmos are also fairly drought tolerant making it a delightful and easy to grow Annual.

Perennial Flowers

• Salvia have spikes of flowers that are long blooming, on plants that are easy to grow, and drought tolerant once they are established. These low maintenance plants will attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds, and are deer and rabbit-resistant.
• Coreopsis is another drought tolerant perennial that will bloom summer through fall. Flowers are daisy-like and come in vibrant shades of yellow or red.
• Coneflower or Echinacea is a daisy-like flower that is drought-tolerant and long blooming. These sturdy plants have flowers in a wide range of colours from chartreuse to pink, orange, red, and yellow. They come in a range of blossom shapes which make them even more intriguing. If that wasn’t enough, they are also loved by birds and pollinators!
• Rudbeckia, or Black-Eyed Susan are classic perennials that liven up any garden with their sunny colours ranging from yellow to bronzy orange. This durable plant is popular because it is drought-tolerant, pollinators love it, and it’s long blooming.

While most annuals provide a continuous succession of flowers, perennials tend to bloom for two to six weeks. Many perennials will bloom, rest, and then rebloom if you cut off, or deadhead, any spent flowers. A little tender loving care for your annuals and perennials throughout the summer will help blooms last as long as possible. We’ll cover that in our next blog!