By: Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer

If you can’t wait for Mother Nature’s next great colour show, the time is now (mid September) to get rolling on those early spring flowering bulbs! Even though you can start planting in October or early November, buying bulbs now is advantageous as the selection at your local garden centre is at their best. Being the very first to bloom during the last dreary days of winter, bulbs announce that spring is returning once more, and as you think about the colourful show of tulips and daffodils next year, remember all spring’s groundwork begins now!

   Your bulbs may be planted in your lawn, rock beds, at the foot of trees and bushes, in annual or perennial flower beds, or even in flower stands and pots. Combining the emerging fresh colors and textures of bulbs with the established foliage creates a harmonious relationship opportune for a complimenting or contrasting garden-scape. With a bit of planning and creative selection you can easily extend the joy of having spring flowering bulbs in your garden from a few weeks to several months, furthermore, planting bulbs amongst perennials offers that the new growth of the perennials will hide the fading foliage of the bulbs once they have finished flowering! Not long after the fading of the bulbs most perennials themselves will bloom, smoothly extending the sequence of flowering plants for you to enjoy.

Read on for all there is to know about planting bulbs!

Buying Your Bulbs:

When buying, look for nice, plump, firm, bulbs. Avoid those with scars or that feel spongy to the touch. The general rule is the larger the bulb the bigger the plant. If you're buying daffodils, look for bulbs that have two or more "noses" as you will get extra flowers for free!

   To have a good display of colour in your garden, right from March to the end of June. Be sure to check the blooming times on the packages and get a variety of early, mid and late-blooming spring bulbs.

👉 Tip: To extend the season, plant some bulbs in places where the sun beats down in early spring and some in cooler, shady areas of the garden allowing them to emerge in later spring.

Planting Your Bulbs:

When planting, the soil must be warm enough under the surface to stimulate a little root growth prior to the winter freeze. Winter chilling is necessary to break the flower bud dormancy (vernalization) to have our bulbs produce blooms in the spring (see below how to force bulbs if you’re reading this in the spring).

   Remember to plant your bulbs with the pointed end up! If it doesn't seem to have a pointed end, look for the flatter side and evidence of roots, which is the end that goes down. If you still can't be sure, plant the bulb on its side and it will figure out the proper direction by itself!

   The rule of thumb is to plant the bulb two or three times as deep as the bulb is tall. The depth is to the base of the bulb, not the top. Typically, 8 inches (20 cm) for big bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and hyacinths and 5 inches (13 cm) for small bulbs like grape hyacinths and crocus. Plant in well-drained soil, cover up, water well and wait for spring.

   In a wide hole, place bulbs - so they aren't touching - in threes, fives, or sevens per hole for the most natural look. You can throw a handful of bonemeal in the planting hole and mix it lightly with the soil, this will give your bulbs a good boost for the best bloom. Water to the depth of the hole.

   Tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs require a long period of cool temperatures to undergo the biochemical process that allows them to flower. So, in the fall, get them in the ground ideally six weeks before hard freezes to give them the time they need to develop strong roots.

Fertilizing Bulbs:

   Bulbs contain the nutrients they need to bloom their first year, but a fertilizing program will keep plants healthy and ward off diseases and pests. Compost and manure are two good organic fertilizers that not only enrich the soil but ensure a good soil structure for bulbs. Additionally, organic supplements can be used to add nutritional balance. Compound mineral fertilizers can also be applied, however, check the label to see if fertilizing is appropriate for your bulbs and the best time of year to do so. Top-dressing with fertilizers like 9-9-6 slow release or either 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 soluble fertilizers are examples.

   Once a bed of spring flowering bulbs are established, the process of naturalizing occurs which simply means that a bulb flowers again after the first year and starts producing more bulbs on their own. However, they will need your help to get the food they require to recharge and regenerate for the next season's bloom.

Some Helpful Tips:

1. Squirrels enjoy the taste of tulip bulbs if they are easily accessible but not so with daffodil bulbs; interplanting the two together and/or mulching the garden will help protect them.
2. Resist the urge to tidy up fading foliage or mow over it as the plants require about six weeks to build up reserves for the next season.
3. Deadhead the tulips as the formation of seeds will sap the energy from the bulb. Daffodils & other bulbs do not require this action.

Forcing Bulbs:

Now if you can't wait for spring to smell the fragrant hyacinths, or you missed the fall planting, why not try your hand at bulb forcing?

   All you have to do is plant any extra bulbs in a pot with a drainage hole. Choose a pot that is at least twice as deep as the bulbs to allow for proper root growth. Fill the pot half full of soilless potting mix. Then place as many bulbs as possible in the pot, without letting them touch. For a thick show, layer more than one kind of bulb in the same pot; place larger bulbs on the bottom as they will grow around the smaller ones. A six inch-wide pot holds up to six tulips, three narcissus (daffodils), or 15 minor bulbs, such as crocuses or grape hyacinths.

   Cover the bulbs with potting mix, leaving their tips showing. Water the bulbs thoroughly. Label with name and date; loosely cover pot with a paper bag. Place in cool (1-7 degrees Celsius or 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit), dark place for chilling such as an unheated attic, basement, or attached garage or in a 12 inch-deep trench covered in a tarp.

   Check moisture in pot periodically keeping the soil damp but not wet. When chilling is complete, you'll see roots poking out of the bottom of the pot and green sprouts emerging at the bulb tips. It's time to move the potted bulbs into a warm room.

Chilling and Blooming Times:

• Daffodils: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Tulips: 10-16 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Crocus: 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Grape hyacinth (Muscari): 8-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Iris reticulata: 13-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Snowdrop (Galanthus): 15 weeks of chilling; 2 weeks to bloom after chilling.
• Hyacinth: 12-15 weeks of chilling; 2-3 weeks to bloom after chilling.

We wish you all the best with your bulb planting this autumn! For more information - and bulbs - stop by Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre this fall!

By: Ava Green

Spring is the time of year known for new beginnings, and it’s also a very busy season in the garden as we hurry to get everything planted for the summer growing season here in Southern Ontario. But, did you know that fall is also an ideal time to get planting? 

Similar to spring conditions, the cooler temperatures and more frequent rainfall make it easier for new plants to transition. This also decreases transplant stress. There’s time for roots to become established, and by springtime, you’ll be enjoying your plants instead of being busy planting them!

Don’t wait too long, though! At Eising Greenhouses, we recommend planting perennials, trees and shrubs before Thanksgiving weekend to give your new plants a little time to settle in before a hard frost arrives. A hard frost, or freeze, is when the temperature dips below zero for an extended period of time, killing tender plants.

What to Plant in Fall

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Tulips, Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocus, Fritillaria and Alliums are just some of the bulbs that need to be planted in the fall in order to enjoy their flowers in the spring. Tulips especially appreciate being planted in cooler weather, but all of these bulbs require a cold period of about 12 weeks in order to grow in the spring. Many bulbs can be planted right up until the ground freezes. But why wait?!

👉 TIPS: While Tulips can be tasty and tempting for squirrels, rabbits and deer, many bulbs like Alliums, Frittilaria and Daffodils are not so delectable. Tamping down the soil after planting your bulbs makes it more difficult for critters to sniff them out. Laying some chicken wire over the area can also help deter from your bulbs becoming a meal for a critter.

Be sure to choose an area to plant your bulbs in that does not stay wet so the bulbs don’t rot.

Garlic

While some folks choose to plant garlic in the early spring, many people choose to plant it in the fall. Why not get started now? When you plant your garlic in autumn, you will have a crop that’s ready for harvest next summer.

Plant, Divide, and Transplant Perennials

Yes, you can still plant perennial flowers in the fall! Whether you’re purchasing new plants or moving plants around, autumn is a great time of year to do it.

It’s also a great time to divide and transplant spring and summer blooming perennials. Why divide your plants? It’s a great way to revitalize the plant and also to create new plants.

Whether you’re planting, dividing or transplanting perennials, it’s best to do it 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost so that they have time to become established in the soil. Perennial plants will be available for sale at Eising Greenhouses until Thanksgiving weekend, so don’t delay too much!

Trees and Shrubs

Container-grown or burlap-wrapped trees and shrubs can be planted as long as you can get a shovel in the ground! However, it’s a good idea to give them a few weeks in your garden before it freezes if you can.

It’s especially nice to see what a tree or shrub will look like in the fall before you plant it.

Peonies

Autumn is the best time to plant and establish roots so your peony is ready to bloom in spring! Planting them 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost will help your plant become established before cold weather descends.

👉 TIP: Be sure to add mulch to trees, shrubs and perennials after planting. But keep the mulch away from the trunks or stems. It’s never a good idea to put decaying plant material right up against a living plant!

Come in and take a look at what’s available, then enjoy the cool fall weather for planting!

Resources: If you’re new to dividing perennials, here’s a handy helper - A Guide to Dividing Perennials by the Toronto Master Gardeners

We love choosing what bulbs to plant in autumn—there’s something exciting about designing your spring garden and waiting for all those colourful flowers to emerge at the first signs of warmer weather. But have you ever wondered why bulbs need to be planted so many months in advance?

Planting flower bulbs at the wrong time can stunt their growth or inhibit blooming altogether, so understanding the science behind it can help to ensure your spring garden is successful. Here’s a breakdown of why spring-flowering bulbs need to stay in the ground over the winter, and how to get the best results from planting.

When Should I Plant Spring-Blooming Bulbs?

Flower bulbs that bloom in spring are naturally accustomed to staying in the ground over the winter. This cold period is essential to kickstarting their bloom cycle—the cold is like a period of hibernation, and once the temperature begins to rise, this signals to the bulb that it’s time to start growing! Without the transition from cold to warm, your flower bulbs will get confused and won’t develop properly.

While the bulb is hanging out in the soil for several months, this also gives them an opportunity to soak up tons of nutrients from the soil, so they’re ready to spring into action as soon as it’s warm out. This is why it’s always a good idea to mix in lots of compost and remove any weeds from the soil, so your bulbs take in all that extra good stuff, and the weeds won’t end up hogging all the resources.

Ideally, you’ll want to plant your bulbs about 6 weeks before the ground is about to freeze up. Since our weather can be a bit unpredictable in autumn, wait until the temperatures consistently hover around 5-10°C. These are comfortable conditions for your flower bulbs to go in the ground.

Tips for Planting Flower Bulbs

There’s a bit more to planting flower bulbs than simply digging a hole and tossing them in, so follow these basic guidelines to make sure they’re planted properly:

• Choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. This will help your flowers bloom brightly.
• Plant them with the pointy side facing upward.
• Check the directions on the packaging to see the correct planting depth. Planting them too deeply can result in lots of leaves, but no flowers. Smaller bulbs usually only need to be planted about 4 inches deep, but larger bulbs like daffodils may need closer to 6–8 inches.
• Consider applying a layer of mulch to help block out weeds and regulate the soil temperature.
• Don’t add any fertilizer to the soil until spring, when you see the first signs of sprouting. Fertilizer just confuses plants in the fall and winter while they’re supposed to be resting, so hold off on using any and just stick with compost for building up soil nutrients.

What Bulbs are Planted in Fall? 

For instant spring colour as soon as the snow melts and the temperature rises, grab some of these spring-blooming bulbs to plant in fall in Ontario that we carry here at Eising:

• Tulip
• Daffodil
• Crocus
• Iris
• Allium
• Hyacinth
• Snowdrops
• Garlic

Ready to start designing your spring garden? We’d love to help! Visit Eising, and we’ll show you our incredible collection of the best spring bulbs to plant now, in every beautiful colour imaginable!