The Queen of the Classic Garden Border
By Ava Green
Tall, stately, and undeniably dramatic, the Delphinium or Larkspur is one of those perennial plants that stops people in their tracks. When given the right conditions, its towering floral spikes are magnificent. For gardeners who love a classic English border, nothing else compares. Yes, Delphiniums have lots of preferences, but tend to them, and they will reward you with a floral display that makes every bit of effort worthwhile.
Choosing Your Delphiniums
With a wide number of varieties to choose from, there’s one that’s sure to fit every garden. Heights range from a modest 36 inches to an impressive 72 inches tall (Yes, 6 feet!), with a spread of 24 to 36 inches depending on the variety. So whether you have a compact border or a large sweeping bed, there’s a Delphinium to suit your space.
Their colour palette is equally diverse: rich blues and purples, soft pinks, crisp whites, and beautiful bicolours. Few flowers offer such a wide range.
Planting
While Delphiniums prefer abundant moisture, be sure to plant the crown of the plant (where the stems meet the root ball) at soil level to avoid crown rot. Planting them too deeply is the most common way to lose these plants.
Spring and Fall are the ideal times to plant, giving roots a chance to establish themselves in cooler, more forgiving conditions. That said, a cool, overcast summer day works well too, just avoid planting during hot or humid spells. Spacing will depend on the variety you choose, so check the tag and give each plant the room it needs to breathe.
Growing
Delphiniums are what gardeners affectionately call “Goldilocks plants”, they like things just right. Full sun, protection from strong winds, and fertile, humus-rich soil with excellent drainage are keys to success. They also love manure mixed into the soil to enrich their growing conditions.
Their height is both their greatest asset and vulnerability. Because Delphinium flower stalks have hollow centres, they break easily if they’re exposed to the wind. Planting them in a sheltered spot is genuinely important. Once plants reach about 12 inches tall, stake each flower spike individually, or place a tomato cage around a clump early in the season before it’s needed. It’s much easier to stake proactively than to rescue a snapped stem after the fact.
Delphiniums are hungry plants and will perform best when fed generously. A dose of fertilizer, compost, or well-rotted manure in both spring and summer keeps them healthy and productive throughout the season.
Finally, don’t overlook dividing. Each spring, simply dig up the plant and cut the root ball in half. Now you have two plants for your border, or one to keep and one to share!
The Show
All that care pays off in late spring and early summer, when Delphiniums put on one of the most spectacular displays in the garden. Tall, densely packed spikes covered in richly coloured blooms rise above the border like beacons. Bold, beautiful, and completely unforgettable.
Once the first flush of flowers begins to fade, and before the blooms turn to seed pods, cut the spent spikes back to just above the foliage. This encourages the plant to produce a second, smaller flush of blooms later in the season and extends the show! As the old foliage fades, trim it away to allow the fresh new growth to replace it.
Inspiration
There are plants you fit into a garden, and then there are plants you plan a garden around. Delphiniums belong firmly in the second category. Their height, colour, and presence make them one of the most inspiring and rewarding perennials a gardener can grow.
Stop by Eising Garden Centre to see what Delphinium varieties we have available this season. Our team is always happy to help you find the right fit for your garden and set you up for success.
Perennial Climbers to Start Growing Now
By Ava Green
Great garden design plays with height, and vines are among nature’s most elegant solutions. They transform a bare wall, a plain fence or an open pergola into something that feels alive and intentional. And because these are perennial climbers, they come back every year, a little fuller and more beautiful than the season before.
Start growing one of these beauties now, and you’ll be enjoying them for years to come!
Clematis
Clematis has earned its place as one of the most loved climbers in the garden, and once you discover the extraordinary range of flower shapes, sizes and colours available, you will understand why.
For a look that feels straight out of an English cottage garden, pair a Clematis with a climbing rose. The two intertwine beautifully, flowering together in a spectacular combination.
Honeysuckle
The sweet, heady scent of Honeysuckle wafting through the air on a warm summer evening is a good reason to include this climber in your garden. But its tubular or trumpet-shaped blossoms are also irresistible to hummingbirds, bees and butterflies, making it valuable to your local ecosystem too. Few vines reward you quite so generously for so little effort.
Climbing Hydrangea
It may be slow to start, but once it’s established, Climbing Hydrangea grows with remarkable vigour, covering walls, fences and structures in lush, deep green foliage. No trellis is needed; it produces its own aerial rootlets that allow it to cling independently to almost any hard surface. In summer, the entire plant is blanketed in elegant white lacecap flowers! It tolerates shade better than most climbers, making it an exceptional choice for a north-facing wall or a shady spot in the garden.
Porcelain Vine
This fast-growing climber is a treasure for its extraordinary ornamental berries. Clusters of small, jewel-like fruits that ripen through a stunning progression of colours, from pale pink and lilac to a rich purple and a remarkable, almost iridescent turquoise blue, all appearing at the same time in fall. Train it up a fence, trellis or structure to let it climb, or allow it to trail gracefully down a slope or over a retaining wall for beautiful low-maintenance ground coverage. Please note: the berries are strictly ornamental, and not for eating.
Graceful, Useful and Very Worthwhile
Vines provide something that few other plants can; they add height, softness, privacy, and beauty all at once. They can disguise an unsightly fence, cool a sun-baked wall with natural shade, frame a garden entrance, or simply bring a sense of lushness to a space that feels too bare or flat.
Find Your Perfect Vine at Eising Garden Centre
Not sure which vine is right for your space? Bring us your questions and, if you have them, a photo of your wall, fence, or structure. Our team will help you find the perfect climber for your light conditions, your soil, and your vision. We’d love to help you get growing your perfect vine!
For Height, Drama, and Eye-Catching Interest
By Ava Green
Every well-designed garden needs an anchor, something tall and confident at the back that gives the whole planting a sense of structure and depth. While shrubs and trees often fill that role, perennials can also do the job beautifully. The back row perennials below are sturdy, reliable performers that thrive right here in Norfolk County. Plant them at the back of a border or the centre of an island bed as the backdrop that makes everything around them look better.
False Indigo, Baptisia australis
Baptisia is one of those perennials that gardeners discover and immediately wonder why they waited so long to plant it. In late spring, masses of stems are loaded with sweet pea-shaped flowers in shades of indigo blue, soft yellow, white or purple, and butterflies and bees absolutely love them. Once the blooms fade, the plant takes on a handsome, shrub-like form with blue-green foliage that holds its shape nicely for the rest of the season. While it’s slow to establish, it is extraordinarily long-lived, making it a plant you put in once and enjoy for decades.
Grows 3 ft tall and 3 ft wide | Full sun to partial shade | Blooms late spring to early summer
Hollyhocks, Alcea
Few perennials carry the nostalgic, romantic charm of a Hollyhock in full bloom. Their tall, stately spires are covered in large, papery flowers and are available in an irresistible range of colours from soft pastels to rich burgundies and deep purples, to classic white. They have a way of making a garden feel established in their first season, making them a desirable back-row choice.
Grows 2-8 ft tall and 1-2 ft wide | Prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade | Blooms in summer
Joe Pye Weed, Eutrochium or Eupatorium
A native plant that is as ecologically valuable as it is beautiful. Its large, showy clusters of rosy-purple flowers are a magnet for butterflies and pollinators from mid-summer well into fall, long after many other perennials have finished their show. If you want a back-row plant that works hard for wildlife while adding bold colour to the garden, this is an excellent choice.
Grows 4-6 ft tall and 2-4 ft wide | Prefers part sun and moist soil | Blooms mid-summer to late fall
Russian Sage, Perovskia atriplicifolia or Salvia yangii
When the garden fills up with yellow and orange blooms in late summer, Russian Sage arrives with a billowy, airy cloud of lavender-blue flower spikes rising above silvery-grey foliage. It catches the light beautifully and adds a softness that few other plants can match. Drought-tolerant once established and virtually pest-free, it is one of the lowest-maintenance perennials you can grow. Compact varieties are also available if space is limited.
Grows 3-4 ft tall and 3-4 ft wide | Full sun | Blooms mid-summer to fall
Bear’s Breeches, Acanthus Mollis
If you’re looking for a plant that makes a genuine architectural statement, Bear’s Breeches is in a category of its own. Its large, deeply lobed, glossy foliage forms an impressive mound, while dramatic flower spikes shoot three to five feet upward, bearing creamy white snapdragon-like blooms accented with striking reddish-purple bracts. It is bold, sculptural, and unlike almost anything else in the garden.
Grows 3-5 ft tall and 2-3 ft wide | Full sun to part shade | Blooms June to July
Foxglove, Digitalis
There is something undeniably enchanting and regal about Foxglove with its tall spires of tubular flowers freckled and spotted on the inside, nodding gently in the breeze. The colour range is also wonderful, from soft creamy whites and pale pinks to rich purples and deep rose. Many varieties self-seed freely, naturalizing happily in the garden over time. One important note: every part of the Foxglove plant is toxic to people and pets, so it is best planted away from areas where children or animals play. In the right spot, however, it is one of the most beautiful back-of-the-border plants available.
Grows 2-5 ft tall and 2 ft wide | Sun to part shade | Blooms in summer
Goat’s Beard, Aruncus diocus
Despite its stature, this is one of the most graceful and softening plants you can add to a shady border. Large, feathery plumes of creamy white flowers rise above finely divided, elegant foliage, bringing lightness to even the darkest corners of the garden. It is especially effective at softening hard edges, filling bare spots under trees, and providing a lush, natural backdrop for smaller shade-loving plants. Dwarf varieties are available for smaller spaces.
Grows 6 inches (dwarf) to 6 ft tall and 2-4 ft wide | Partial to full shade | Blooms early to mid-summer
Gardener’s Tip:
Removing spent blooms before they go to seed, also known as deadheading, encourages many perennials to produce a second flush of flowers later in the season. It takes only a few minutes and can extend your bloom display by weeks.
Ready to Build Your Back Row?
The team at Eising Garden Centre is here to help you choose the right tall perennials for your space, your soil, and your sun conditions. Stop by and let us help you create a border that looks stunning from front to back, season after season.
Expert Picks You Can Plant Right Now
By Ava Green
Looking for a flowering shrub that delivers season after season? We asked our experts at Eising Garden Centre to share their top picks, the ones that customers and staff love most, and they delivered. Whether you’re looking for spring blooms, fall colour, wildlife and pollinator value, or a shrub to suit your space, there’s something on this list for every garden.
Fuji Cherry ‘Little Twist’, Prunus incisa ‘CarltonLT’
As an accent in a small garden, or planted in a grouping in a larger garden, this multi-stemmed shrub is a gem!
In early spring, crimson buds emerge before the leaves appear. Little Twist then produces clusters of lightly scented white, bell-shaped flowers with soft pink centres that grow along its stems, a stunning early-season display. It is a deciduous shrub, and leaves begin as green before shifting to coppery-bronze, then deepen to a rich burgundy in fall. Smooth, dark red bark adds interest in the winter once the leaves are gone.
This slow-growing, multi-stemmed shrub makes a striking feature in your garden.
Best for: Small gardens, accent planting, four-season interest. | Sun: Full sun | Mature size: 6 ft. tall × 6 ft. wide
Downy Serviceberry, Amelanchier canadensis
One of the most rewarding native shrubs you can plant, Downy Serviceberry earns its place in the garden from spring right through to fall. Showy clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring, followed by small, sweet, edible purple-blue berries in early summer that are wonderful for making jam and an absolute favourite for birds. Come fall, the foliage puts on a spectacular show in shades of yellow, red, and orange.
As a bonus, choosing a native plant like Serviceberry supports local pollinators and wildlife, making it as ecologically valuable as it is beautiful. It works well as a specimen plant on it’s own, in a grouping or hedge, or naturalized in a larger landscape.
Best for: Wildlife gardens, naturalized areas, multi-season interest | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 20 ft. tall × 10 ft. wide
Amur Privet, Ligustrum Amurense
Amur Privet
When fast growth and privacy matter, Amur Privet is one of the best choices available. This dense, dark green shrub produces white flower panicles in late spring and small black berries in fall. It responds exceptionally well to pruning after it blooms, making it an ideal candidate for a formal or informal hedge. If you need to fill a space quickly and create structure in your garden, this is a reliable, low-maintenance option.
Best for: Hedging, screening, fast coverage | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 12–15 ft. tall × 8–15 ft. wide
Viburnum ‘Fragrant Snowball’, Viburnum Opulus ‘Roseum’
Few shrubs stop people in their tracks quite like Fragrant Snowball Viburnum in full bloom. Large, rounded clusters of sweetly scented white flowers cover the plant in spring, creating a display that’s hard to match. While it doesn’t produce fruit, it earns its place again in the fall when the foliage transitions to rich shades of purple.
Pruning after it blooms will help to keep it a manageable size and encourage healthy new growth. It’s also available as a standard, or tree form, which matures to a more compact 6 to 8 feet tall.
Sun or part shade are best for this deciduous shrub, a beautiful, solitary accent plant for the garden growing 12 feet high and 10 feet wide. As a standard, it is smaller, maturing at 6 to 8 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide.
Best for: Specimen planting, cottage gardens, fragrance | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 12 ft. tall × 10 ft. wide (shrub); 6–8 ft. tall (standard)
Snowbelle Mockorange, Philadelphus ‘Snowbelle’
Don’t let its compact size fool you; when Snowbelle Mockorange blooms in early summer, it puts on a big show. This dense, mounded shrub is blanketed in sweetly fragrant double white blooms that are absolutely irresistible to bees and butterflies. Once the flowers fade, its rich, dark-green deciduous foliage makes it a lovely backdrop for other blooming plants in the border.
Growing just four feet tall and wide, it’s one of the best choices for smaller beds, borders and foundation plantings. It prefers full sun but handles part shade as well.
Best for: Small borders, foundation planting, fragrance | Sun: Full sun to part shade | Mature size: 4 ft. tall × 4 ft. wide
More Flowering Shrubs Worth Exploring
This is just the beginning! At Eising Garden Centre, we also carry a wonderful selection of Azalea, Eastern Redbud, Kwanzan Flowering Cherry, Hydrangea, Dogwood, Butterfly Bush, Beauty Bush, Lilac, Rose of Sharon, Forsythia, and Potentilla, to name a few.
The best way to find the right flowering shrub for your garden is to come in and see them in person, and right now is the perfect time to plant. Stop by and chat with Zach or Donna, who are always happy to help you find exactly what you’re looking for, based on your space, soil, and vision. We’re here to help you make the most of every corner of your garden!
By Ava Green
There’s a truth we all learn over time: good quality makes a big difference. Not buying more, buying smarter.
But how do you hold on to great pieces and make them look fresh and current? Start by getting yourself the perfect pair of jeans for the season. Great jeans work wonders to update your look. The right cut, the right wash, the right fit. It’s the closest thing to a style superpower you can own.
To show you what we mean, we picked a pair of white Lois jeans from Sassyfras, and created four completely different looks.
Crisp Black and White
There is something timeless about a black-and-white outfit. Timeless made current with a new jean style. The printed scarf ties it all together and adds just enough personality to keep it from feeling too minimal.
Tie the scarf loosely around your neck, or loop it through the handle of your bag to pull the colours together. White-on-white (sweater and jeans) works beautifully, and varying the textures (knit vs. denim) keeps it interesting.
Sun-Kissed Orange
Orange and white is one of summer’s most joyful combinations. This outfit shows that beautifully. Playful, casual, and sunny. Tying a sweater around your waist or resting on your shoulders adds a relaxed, effortless layer that’s handy when you need a little extra warmth.
Classic Blue and White
This is the most polished of the four looks. A white blouse paired with a fine-striped blue jacket feels relaxed and also put together. This is the kind of outfit that works equally well for a casual lunch or an afternoon of errands. The multi-coloured scarf, which introduces a bit of pink and orange, pulls all the elements together beautifully and adds a little bit of playfulness. A blue bag grounds the colour palette.
The Colourful One
This look is so much fun. A multi-coloured sweater or blouse in bright, happy shades paired with white jeans is bold without trying too hard. White keeps it cohesive while the top gets to be the star. The woven macrame handbag adds texture and an artisan quality that feels intentional and individual. This outfit says: I’m having fun. The baseball cap is the punctuation mark! Vibrant, creative and completely at ease.
The Key to Making it Easy
Styled with intention and a little creativity, a single great piece, like our Lois jeans, can carry you through every mood and occasion. Wearing what brings you joy is always the right answer, and we have an inspiring selection at Sassyfras to make choosing easy. Stop by the boutique and see for yourself!
Sassyfras Boutique is located inside Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre.
How to Keep Your Hanging Basket as Gorgeous as the Day You Brought it Home, All Summer Long!
By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer
Remember your Mother's Day hanging basket with its variety of colours, textures, and plant combinations? Maybe there was Verbena cascading elegantly with their colourful star like blossoms, double Begonias for the porch in spectacular shades of reds, pinks, and burgundies, and of course the vigorously growing Petunias and Geraniums, to name just a few. But as the Summer goes on, they just don’t seem to have that same stamina.
To keep your hanging baskets in great shape and avoid the dry, wilted, bald spotted, leggy look that occurs to containers every August, one should follow these easy tips.
Watering
Plastic, fibre, and especially moss lined baskets dry out quickly. They should be checked twice daily and watered every day. Be sure to wet the moss sides as well.
Try to maintain uniform soil moisture. When watering, fill the top of the container with pooling water until it ‘pees,’ and allow it to drip out of the bottom of the basket every time you apply water. Frequent severe wilting will impact upon the quality of the basket.
At this time of year, one could take the basket down and soak it in a tub of water for 20 minutes to hydrate the entire root ball, once every week.
Deadheading
Remove spent flowers on a weekly basis (this is called deadheading) to prevent plants from going to seed. This will encourage more flower production. Part of the beauty of the mixed basket is its prolonged display, just like in your garden.
Check for Pests!
During your weekly deadheading, keep a watchful eye out for aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars. If you see any, try a quick spray of insecticidal soap to keep them from becoming an infestation.
🖱️ If you're noticing fungus gnats in your hanging baskets, find more on eradicating them here!
Pruning
Not every plant in the basket will be at its peak all season.
Cutting plants back after a flush of bloom will tidy them up and prepare them for a fresh crop of flowers. Meanwhile, other varieties will begin putting on a show. This is especially true for Petunias.
A good cut back of long, lanky branches will reap benefits.
Fertilizing
Daily watering means nutrients can leach out of the soil before the plants can absorb them. The baskets should have both slow release granular added to the growing media and a weekly feeding of 15-30-15 soluble fertilizer. Use a solution containing micronutrients, as plants like Petunias need extra iron.
Sheltering
It has been suggested, if possible, that during stretches of extreme heat, give your baskets a break and move them to a cooler, shaded spot to de-stress for a couple of days. This is also suggested when heading on vacation. Your flowers will rebound to their former beautiful selves!
We hope this long term hanging basket care guide helps you enjoy your purchase all summer long! For more information - and beautiful plants – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌸
By Dave Zeldon and Ely Schweyer
This is a question we hear daily during the spring, summer and, especially, the fall. Unfortunately, many homeowners do not see any adverse changes occurring in their trees until they look dead, or nearly so.
You Might Not Need to Panic Yet
The discolouration and dropping of evergreen needles are a natural phenomenon and the main cause of needle loss in the wild. Evergreen needles, as the name implies, survive for a lengthy period, and in fact usually have a life span of five to seven years on healthy trees, however, they must be shed. The needles first start to die in the central and lower part of the tree, and this change progresses upward over time. You will see spruce trees naturally lose needles as they get older.
Age is an important factor here in causing needle loss and branch death, however, in landscape plantings of coniferous evergreen trees, pests and disease are likely the major cause of needle loss and dying branches. If there is a sudden fall of a very large number of brown needles and leaves, this signals to us that there is something drastically wrong!
This can happen as early as a year or two after a tree is planted. This is especially true in Haldimand and Eastern Norfolk County where heavy clay soils predominate. Spruce trees, for example, do not grow well on clay soils.
When You DO Need to Worry
Here are some of the more common problems, apart from natural aging that afflict spruce trees, the probable causes and ways of treating the problem.
☝️Unfortunately, these majestic trees, the most popular evergreen planted on our residential properties, incur many other pest and disease problems not dealt with here.
Symptom: Rusty brown needles that eventually fall.
Likely causes:
1. Internal fungus disease (called Cytospora or white blister canker). This creates cracks in the bark causing resin to drip and leave grey-white dripping streaks on the bark. The fungus also causes open wounds or blisters on tops of branches. These wounds can be greyish white or greyish blue in colour, eventually turning brown and black.
2. Feeding by spider mites which leave fine, poorly formed webs in the needles, especially near the ends of the twigs.
Best treatments:
1. Properly aerate and fertilize tree out to a distance of half its height in all directions, where possible.
2. Pressure wash thoroughly once a month with water only, all needles and branches as high as possible on the tree. Water pressure dislodges spider mites.
Symptom: Chewed up ends of twigs in June.
Likely cause:
Spruce bud worms which develop in the needle cluster that arises from a bud.
Best treatment:
Spray the biological pesticide, BTK (eg. Dipel), onto the entire tree when feeding is first noticed in early spring, to kill the young caterpillars.
Symptom: Black sooty mold covering twigs and needles.
Likely causes:
1. Spruce bud scales, ball-shaped insects, initially light brown in colour but eventually turning black. Often two to five scale balls cluster in one location on the twig; honey dew excretions from scales become infected with sooty mold.
2. An overhanging shade tree such as oak, maple or elm may have heavily infested leaves with aphids whose honey dew secretions become infected with sooty mold.
Best treatment:
1. Pressure wash tree using water only to dislodge young scales (called nymphs) in May and early June while they are in the crawling stage. Scale nymphs fall to the ground where they cease to be a threat to the tree.
2. Spray shade tree in early spring with insecticidal soap to control aphids. The problems of other coniferous evergreens such as pines, firs, cedars and junipers can usually be treated with correct diagnosis, though some diseases are lethal.
We hope these help you troubleshoot common issues often found in evergreen trees! For more information - and evergreens – visit Eising Greenhouse and Garden Centre! 🌲
How To Keep Your Orchid Alive
By Ava Green
Orchids have become very popular gifts, and a great hobby for indoor plant enthusiasts who discover the wide range of colours and shapes available. Orchids are also loved for their long-lasting and exotic blooms.
While some may choose to only enjoy these tropical plants as long as they’re blooming, orchid-lovers look forward to nurturing the plant and encouraging it to flower regularly. It may be a little daunting at first, but once orchids grace you with their stunningly beautiful blossoms, you will find that a little bit of care is very worthwhile!
It’s estimated that there are 25,000 different species of orchids and over 100,000 hybrids! The ones you’ll find most readily in Ontario stores are Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, because it’s fairly easy to grow. Phalaenopsis are the best choice for beginners.
Other orchids you may find easily are Cattleyas (Corsage Orchids), Cymbidiums (Boat Orchids) and Dendrobium orchids.
While all of these may be orchids, they don’t necessarily require the same care, so it’s a good idea to check the tag for the type you have and its specific care requirements. The following is a general guide to light, water, fertilizer, and growing medium for the most commonly found orchids, but it does not apply to all breeds.
Light and Air
For most orchids, light, and lots of it, is the general rule. Place your plants within 3 feet of a window (not to the side) in the sun. South, east, and west-facing windows are all fine for maximizing the light your plant receives.
Orchids also enjoy a breeze or circulating air in your house. They do not like temperature extremes, though 15 to 20 degrees Celsius is safe. Keep in mind that the more warmth and air movement there is, the more often you will need to water your orchid.
Water
A general rule is to use water that is not hard and has not been softened with salt. Salt will kill an orchid. Rainwater, reverse osmosis, or distilled water are good choices. Chlorinated water is not an issue for orchids - high sodium levels are.
The biggest issue many people have is either over-watering or underwatering their orchids. Here is the method we recommend:
Every 5-7 days, place the pot in a container or the sink, then fill it with enough water to cover the top of the pot. Be careful not to let water collect in the crook at the base of the leaves, as standing water will rot the leaves and the plant. Once the plant’s growing medium is thoroughly soaked, remove it from the water and allow the pot to fully drain in the sink before placing it back in its saucer.
We prefer using a container of water rather than the sink, so the remaining water can be used to water other plants.
Here’s the best watering advice we can give you: look at the overall health of both the plant AND its root system. Full, plump leaves and vibrant, green roots indicate that your plant is getting enough moisture. Puckered leaves and a silver sheen on the roots indicate insufficient water. Mushy, brown leaves and roots are signs of rot caused by too much water.
You may hear of another watering method that involves using ice cubes, but it’s controversial and not widely recommended. To quote the American Orchid Society, “Ice is for cocktails, not orchids. Never use ice on tropical plants to water them.”
“Soil” and Nutrients
Most orchids naturally grow high up in trees, where their roots cling to bark and absorb moisture from the air. At home, we try to mimic those conditions, which is why orchids are typically planted in chunky mediums like bark, coconut husk, charcoal, or perlite rather than traditional soil. While many of the roots stay inside the pot, it’s completely normal for some to grow up and over the edge.
These “escapee” roots might look a little wild, but don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with your orchid. In fact, those aerial roots are a sign that the plant is healthy and doing exactly what orchids do in nature.
It’s worth noting that not all orchids grow the same way. Many, like Dendrobiums, are epiphytic (growing on trees) or lithophytic (growing on rocks), though some orchid varieties are terrestrial and grow in the ground. The good news is that the growing medium your orchid comes in is chosen specifically for that variety, so you can trust it’s in the right environment.
The bark that your orchid is planted in will slowly break down and become mushy. It’s a very good idea to repot your plant every two years.
It’s generally recommended to feed most orchids, and bloom time dictates which fertilizer to use and how often to feed. Begin by using a water-soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer, mixing it at ¼ the amount recommended for other houseplants. Apply this solution every 2 weeks in the summer and every 3 weeks in the winter.
“The orchid, with its many forms, is a reminder that life is full of surprises.” — Leonardo da Vinci.
Lastly, here’s an orchid fun fact: While we have been talking about tropical orchids in this article, there are also orchids that grow right here in Ontario! That’s right, there are over 50 species in this province, including the much-loved Pink Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule).
Resources for more detailed and specific information:
Toronto Master Gardeners - https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/growing-orchids-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide/
Canadian Orchid Congress - https://canadianorchidcongress.ca/basics/growing-orchids/
American Orchid Society - https://www.aos.org/orchid-care/indoor-orchid-care
Ontario Wildflowers - https://ontariowildflowers.com/main/group.php?id=18
By: Ava Green
More than just a name, the brands we love and trust at Sassyfras not only have a great reputation but also offer excellent quality, fit, and, importantly, style. We trust their track record and can enthusiastically recommend these brands to you!
Tribal
Founded more than 50 years ago in Montreal, their mission still remains the same - to make women look and feel their best, no matter what they’re doing. They know first-hand what that is because women design Tribal clothing for women. Consistent fit and premium fabrics are hallmarks of their quality garments.
Habitat
Comfort, fit and detail are the priorities for clothing from the Habitat brand. Founder and designer Suzanne Connelly is committed to creating clothing that fits well and suits customers’ tastes. This is not fast fashion that you’ll find everywhere, Habitat produces limited quantities for specialty boutiques - like Sassyfras!
b.Young 🍁
Great quality designs with value for your money have been the focus of b.Young since their inception in 1991 in Denmark. Creating timeless pieces using improved processes with an eye on the environmental impact of textile production, their goal is to produce pieces that will last. This is a brand that creates beautiful styles with integrity.
Culture Clothing
Daring to be different, and urging you to be you, Culture Clothing is a brand that stands out. Whether you’re looking for a piece that’s comfy and classic or a colourful statement piece, this is a brand worth checking out!
Soya Concept
Fashionable, colourful, and feminine for everything from shirts to skirts that are made for women. With a focus on sustainability, high-quality fabrics, affordable prices, and the latest trends, Soya Concept is a brand that aims to earn your loyalty.
Point Zero🍁
One of Canada’s leading clothing brands for men and women since 1979, Point Zero has lots to offer. Based in the heart of Montreal’s fashion district, this Canadian company is focused on great design, superior quality, and trendy fashions all at an attractive price. Additionally, they focus on their ecological footprint in terms of materials and the manufacturing process. An admirable brand that’s homegrown.
Dévia 🍁
Based in Montreal, Devia clothing is proudly designed and made in Canada. With a passion for fashion, they create inspiring and eclectic designs at affordable prices.
Terrera 🍁
Earth-friendly fibres, conscious production, and a commitment to giving back make Terrera an outstanding, sustainable, Canadian company. We think you’ll fall in love with their comfortable, easy-to-wear bamboo basics like bralettes, undies and leggings all created to fit and flatter women.
Moffi
Unique, high-quality clothing with sophisticated details and elegant design. Moffi is designed to appeal to every woman.
What’s In Store For You?
Step into Sassyfras at Eising Garden Centre and explore our carefully curated collection of trusted clothing brands. We’re here to provide great personal service and high-quality pieces from brands you’ll be proud to wear!
If flowers are the divas of the garden, foliage is the harmonious backup group that makes the whole performance shine. Colour, texture, and form don’t just come from blooms—there’s a world of interesting leaves that not only set the stage but often steal the show. Flowers may be the stars, but foliage is the picture frame, the atmosphere, and often the soul of a beautiful garden.
Start with a Standout
When choosing plants—whether for a garden bed or a container—don’t just focus on flowers. Especially in shady spots, standout foliage can create all the visual impact you need. Look for leaves that draw your eye, like the delicate structure of a cutleaf Japanese maple or the bold colour variations of Heuchera (Coral Bells), which range from deep burgundy to vibrant chartreuse.
Your standout feature doesn’t have to be a plant—it could be a sculptural shrub, an ornamental tree, or even a favourite birdbath. Try placing that birdbath atop a lush carpet of Irish moss, or line a path with the spotted leaves of Pulmonaria, silvery Artemisia, or graceful ferns. Light up a shady corner with glossy Bergenia or classic Hostas, which offer endless variety in shape, texture, and hues from bright green to cool blue-ish tones.
Build the Framework
Once you’ve chosen your focal foliage, you can build your planting scheme around it in creative ways. Think of it like building a quilt—each plant contributes a piece to the overall picture.
- Create a patchwork of leaf shapes: Group together plants with small, intricate foliage for a richly textured look.
Mossy Saxifrage 'Cloth of Gold,' Sagina Subulata 'Irish Moss,' and Bellflower Campanula Carpatica 'Pearl Deep Blue'
- Echo colour tones: Pair burgundy Heuchera with other plants in similar shades, like dark-toned Euphorbia, for a cohesive palette.
Foamy Bells 'Catching Fire,' and 'Onyx'
- Choose a colour theme: Work with warm hues like gold, rust, and copper.
Japanese Maple 'Tamukeyama,' 'Magnolia x Soulangeana,' and Lobelia Speciosa 'Starship Scarlet'
- Mix textures, repeat colours: Choose different textures but repeat colour combinations like white and green.
Pulmonaria 'Pink-a-Blue' and Artemesia 'Silver Mound'
Top it Off
Once your foliage framework is in place, add a statement piece to elevate it all - that favourite birdbath, a piece of artwork, an ornamental tree or shrub, or an unexpectedly showy flower. The layered, leafy backdrop with make your feature stand out even more.
Visit us at Eising Garden Centre to find all the foliage stars and supporting players you need to bring your garden vision to life!