By Ava Green ☀️
One of the most common reasons plants struggle comes down to light. Specifically, whether the spot you’ve chosen gives your plant the light conditions it actually needs.
The good news? Once you understand what the terms on a plant tag really mean, matching the right plant to the right spot becomes second nature. And when a plant is happy in its environment, it grows stronger, looks better, and is far less vulnerable to pests and disease because it simply isn’t under stress.
Before You Plant Anything, Do This First
Light conditions in a garden can be surprisingly tricky to read unless you’re paying attention. A garden that feels sunny might not actually deliver the hours of direct light that certain plants require. A shady corner might get more sun than you think.
So here’s your homework assignment, and it’s a very nice one.
Go outside and sit for a while. Find the spot where you would like to plant and observe it for a few days in the summer. Track how many hours of direct sunlight that area receives, hour by hour. Jot it down on a piece of paper. Average it out over a few days for a reliable picture.
Fair warning: this assignment may require a chaise lounge, a good book, and something cold to drink.
Once you have this data, you’re ready to move forward!
Decoding Light Terms
No more guessing at the garden centre! Here’s exactly what each term means.
Full Sun
At least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Plants in this category are sun-lovers: most vegetables, lavender, roses and many annuals and perennials.
Part Sun
4 to 6 hours of sun including some afternoon sun. The hours don’t need to be consecutive; a few hours in the morning and a couple more in the afternoon. Not all of it needs to be intense, direct light.
Part Shade
Also 4 to 6 hours of sun, but with a preference for morning light rather than the stronger afternoon sun. These plants appreciate some protection from the harshest part of the day.
Full Shade
Fewer than 4 hours of direct sun per day. If direct sun hits these plants, morning sun is ideal. Plants that appreciate these conditions are woodland plants, hostas and ferns.
Why Getting This Right Saves You Time and Money
A little observation before you plant is genuinely one of the most valuable things you can do as a gardener. It takes the guesswork out of every purchase and saves you from replacing plants that were never suited to that spot. Most importantly, it gives you a garden full of plants that actually thrive there.
The best gardens aren’t built on luck. They’re built on knowing your conditions and planting accordingly. Now that you’ve cracked the code on light, you’re already ahead of the game.
Bonus - Signage at Eising Greenhouses and Garden Centre!
You'll notice our signage has icons to help you best decide which plants are right for you and your situation!
- If you see a little paw print on our signs or pots, this means we're proud to say this plant is pet friendly! We love your little critters too!
- The number of raindrops on our signs indicates how much water this plant will need
- Signs with these icons indicate the plant naturally deters pests like deer and rabbits
By Ava Green
Is there anything sweeter than the scent of Lilacs in the spring? These beloved shrubs are remarkably easy to grow and will reward you with weeks of fragrant blooms for little or no effort. But a bit of attention can make a big difference, especially if you’ve noticed your blooms getting smaller or fewer with each passing year.
To help your lilac put on its best show, keep these steps in mind:
- Plant in full sun, at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, in well-draining soil
- Water newer plants during prolonged periods of drought until established (the first 3 years)
- Feed your lilacs annually with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10, for example)
- Follow spacing instructions and prune yearly. Pruning is a very important step, and it’s well worth it.
Knowing When to Prune is Key
Timing is everything when it comes to pruning your lilacs. After the blooms fade, you have a two-week window to prune before the shrub sets its buds for next year's flowers. Yes, they set buds this year that will bloom next year! Pruning lilacs in the fall or the early spring risks cutting off all of the flower buds for the following year. Mark your calendar and prune promptly after flowering.
It also helps to understand how lilacs grow: Younger, thinner lilac stems produce more flowers. Older, thicker stems are more prone to disease and pests. Keeping this in mind will help with pruning decisions.
How To Prune Young Lilacs
If your lilac has been in the ground for less than three years, leave it alone; it doesn’t need pruning yet. Many young lilacs won’t bloom during those first few years.
After three years, once your shrub is established, begin by removing just one of the thickest, oldest stems down to the ground every 2 years. This gentle approach prevents the shrub from becoming overgrown while encouraging newer, flower-producing growth.
How To Prune Older, Overgrown Lilacs
If your lilac has been neglected or grown out of control, you have two options:
Option 1: Gradual Rejuvenation
Begin by removing any damaged stems, as these invite pests that can harm the entire shrub. Next, remove only the largest, oldest stems by cutting them right down to the ground. The key is to remove no more than one-third of the living wood (dead stems don’t count toward that total). Leave the younger, thinner stems intact so your shrub can still bloom the following year. Repeat this process each spring for three years, and you’ll gradually restore the shrub to its full, flowering potential without sacrificing a single bloom season.
Option 2: Full Cutback
For a severely overgrown lilac that has been largely ignored, a complete cutback is often the most practical solution. Cut the entire shrub as close to the ground as possible, either in early spring or immediately after blooming. Yes, this breaks the general rule of never removing more than one-third of live wood, but lilacs are remarkably resilient and respond well to this kind of hard reset. By the end of summer, you will have healthy new stems of three to five feet tall. While the shrub won’t bloom for approximately three years after a full cutback, the long-term results are well worth the wait.
Deadheading Your Lilacs
Deadheading, or removing spent flower clusters after the blooms fade, is a simple task that’s separate from pruning, and can be done during that same two-week post-bloom window. When you trim off faded blooms, the plant redirects its energy from seed production toward building bigger, healthier buds for the next year. It takes only minutes and can make a meaningful difference in the size and abundance of next year’s flowers.
A Note on Lawns and Lilacs
If your lilac grows near a lawn, be mindful of how much fertilizer you’re applying to the surrounding grass. Lawn fertilizers are typically high in nitrogen, which encourages lush leaf growth, but too much nitrogen reaching your lilac’s roots will suppress flower production.
Worthy Rewards
Lilacs are remarkably long-lived, often outlasting the gardens and even the homes they were planted beside. So whether you’re nursing a young shrub through its first few years or breathing new life into an old, overgrown beauty, the effort you put in now is an investment that will keep rewarding you, and perhaps generations after you. Every single spring!